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Wandering Zadar
May 21, 2026 In 1409, Zadar was sold to Venice for 100,000 ducats, a chapter known as the ‘shameful sale of Dalmatia.’ Venetian dominance persisted until the fall of the Venetian Republic in 1797. Later, Zadar became part of the Kingdom of Italy under the 1920 Treaty of Rapallo, which settled the status of former … Read more
Walled Zadar
May 21. 2026 Zadar sits on the Adriatic Sea and is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Croatia. Since I have arrived in Croatia, I have been desperately, and unsuccessfully, trying to wrap my head around its history. At least for Zadar, Wikipedia was kind enough to provide a chart. Zadar is situated in northern … Read more
The Church of Saint Donato
May 21, 2026 Zadar, Croatia Built on the remnants of the Roman forum in the 9th century, the church was originally dedicated to the Holy Trinity in the 15th century and only later took the name of the bishop who oversaw its construction, Bishop Donatus. The church is the largest Pre-Romanesque building in Croatia. It … Read more
Zeljava Airfield
May 2026 Zeljava Airfield Off the beaten path between Plivice and Zadar is the abandoned Zeljava Airbase. Željava Air Base was the largest underground airport and military airbase in the former Yugoslavia, and one of the largest in Europe. Built during the Cold War in the 1960s, Željava was a top-secret project of the Yugoslav … Read more
Plitvice Lakes National Park
May 20, 2026 Plitvice Lakes National Park is one of the oldest and largest national parks in Croatia. In 1979, Plitvice Lakes National Park was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list for its outstanding and picturesque series of tufa lakes, caves, and connected waterfalls. It wasn’t until I sat down to review the … Read more
The Road to Plitvice
May 19, 2026 We have left Zagreb, and our destination today is Plitvice with a few stops along the way. Dubovac Castle There have been inhabitants of this area for some 3000 years. Dubovac Castle was built on a large artificial mound. Construction began sometime at the end of the 12th or the beginning of the … Read more
First Impressions A Bit of Architecture and A Little History of Zagreb, Croatia
May 16, 2026 53 degrees F and raining I first came to Croatia in 1976 when it was still Yugoslavia. I never did get to Zagreb, so I am excited to explore this city. A quick background. Following the Allied victory in World War II, Yugoslavia was set up as a federation of six republics, … Read more
Mirogoj Cemetery
May 17, 2026 Mirogoj Cemetery The Mirogoj Cemetery, at nearly 180 acres, is easily the largest cemetery I have ever explored. It currently contains 60,000 graves and is a resting place for 322,000 people. The cemetery was purchased from the estate of linguist Ljudevit Gaj in 1872. Architect Hermann Bollé designed the main building. And … Read more
Unique Things Around Zagreb
May 2016 Kamenita Vrata Coming upon this spot is magical. It was built between 1242 and 166 although its present appearance dates from the 18th century. It serves as a shrine of Mother Mary, whose painting survived the Great Fire of Zagreb in 1731. In 1242, Gradec was declared a free royal city by the Golden … Read more
Walking Zagreb and Spotting Art
May 2026 Zagreb has almost as many sculptures around town as it has streets. These are some that caught my eye. Kumica Barica now sits at the Dolac Market. It was sculpted in 2006 by Stjepan Gračan to honor all the ladies, or “kumice,” who sell their fresh produce in this area. The original ended … Read more
The Registan – The Place of Sand
May 2026 The Registan is most likely the most photographed site in Uzbekistan, and is, without a doubt, the most famous in Samarkand. The Registan is a public square. It consists of three madrasas. The Ulugh Beg Madrasa of the Timurid period, the Sherdar Madrasa, and the Tilakari Madrasa, which was built much later. People … Read more
The Afrasaid Murals
May 2026 In the Museum of Samarkand are these amazing murals. The Afrasiab murals, also called the Paintings of the Ambassadors, are a rare example of Sogdian art. It was discovered in 1965 when the local authorities decided to construct a road in the middle of the Afrāsiāb mound, the old site of pre-Mongol Samarkand. … Read more
Samarkand – Bibi-Khanym Mosque
May 2026 Named for Timur’s wife, Saray Mulk Khanym (Bibi Khanym was her nickname, meaning ‘senior princess’) between 1399 and 1405. Timur was a huge fan of the arts. His megalomania project was the Bibi Khanum mosque. It was to be a monument to God and to himself. It was originally to have 160-foot minarets … Read more
Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis
May 2026 The Shah-i-Zinda Ensemble includes mausoleums and other ritual buildings of the 11th – 15th and 19th centuries. The name Shah-i-Zinda (lit. ‘the Living King‘) is connected with the legend that Qutham ibn Abbas, a cousin of Muhammad, is buried here. He came to Samarkand with the Arab invasion in the 7th century to preach … Read more
Samarkand – Gur-e-Amir
May 13, 026 Gur-e-Amir The Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum is the final resting place of Timur. The site of the tomb was originally a khanqah (a Sufi lodge) and madrasa endowed by Timur’s grandson, Muhammad Sultan, Timur’s heir-apparent. In 1403, Muhammad Sultan died suddenly at age 27. The inconsolable Timur ordered a lengthy period of official mourning … Read more
Ulugh Beg
May 14, 2026 If you are a Westerner, your basic astronomy education was Copernicus, Ptolemy, Galileo, and Newton. If you studied further, you would have learned that they were latecomers to the game. While Samos, Eratosthenes, and Hipparchus came before, they were all Greek. My education never included the astronomers of the East, such as … Read more
Tamerlane
May 14, 2026 Tamerlane’s name was derived from the Persian Timur-i lang, “Temur the Lame,” which Europeans adopted during the 16th century. His Turkic name is Timur, which means ‘iron’. In his lifetime, he has conquered more than anyone else except for Alexander. His armies crossed Eurasia from Delhi to Moscow, from the Tien … Read more
Random Thoughts on Uzbekistan
2026 My Thoughts This has been a fascinating trip. Uzbekistan is anxious to expand its tourism, and yet it isn’t quite ready. Service is spotty at best, although everyone is absolutely delightful despite the fact. Some of the hotels we stayed in were absolutely 5-star, but it is the little things that haven’t been ironed … Read more
Embroidery of Uzbekistan
May 12, 2026 We visited two homes of families who make Suzanis. The first does everything in the traditional manner. The second, while still embroidering by hand, utilizes premade fabrics and chemical dyes. Uzbekistan is known for its embroidery called Kashtachilik or, more commonly, Suzani. Technically, a suzani is a large, hand-embroidered textile panel; the … Read more
Sitorai Mohi Khosa Outside Bukhara
May 12, 2026 Sitorai Mohi Khosa This was the summer palace of the Emir of Bukhara. Sitorai-Mohi-Khosa, which means “A Star Similar to the Moon”. * The palace was built between 1912 and 1918, with both local masters and Russian engineers. The Sitorai Mohi Khosa Palace is divided into the old and the new. … Read more
Bukhara Continued
May 11, 2026 Bahoutdin Architectural Complex The Bahouddin Naqshband Memorial Complex was established after Bahouddin Naqshband’s death and has been a place of pilgrimage for many generations. Bahouddin Naqshband lived from 1318 to 1389 and is recognized as the seventh Sufi saint. Following his death, Bahouddin was buried near his birthplace. A number of buildings … Read more
Bukhara – Day 2
May 11, 2026 Ismail Samani Mausoleum The Ismail Samani Mausoleum is the oldest building in Bukhara. The mausoleum is believed to have served as the family tomb of the Samanid dynasty (819-1005). The tomb is named for Ismail Samani (r. 892-907), the dynasty’s most esteemed ruler. The mausoleum is extremely important from an art-historical perspective, … Read more
Bukhara – Day 1
May 10, 2026 Bukhara is the seventh-largest city in Uzbekistan by population, with 280,187 residents in January 2020. After its capture by Alexander the Great (330 BCE), the Greco-Bactrian state was established here. Then, states such as the Kushan, the Hephthalite Empire, the Turkic Khaganate, the Arab Caliphate, the Samanids, the Karakhanids, the Kara Khitai, … Read more
Archeological Sites Around Khiva
May 9, 2026 Toprak-kala I would love to share the historical lineage of this area, but it gets incredibly complicated with more conquests than you can imagine, so we will stick with the basics here. * The archaeological site of Toprak-kala (1st-4th centuries CE) was discovered in 1938. Toprak-kala had a population of around 3,000 … Read more
Itchan Kala
May 8, 2026 Khiva, Uzbekistan To give you an idea of how much history is in this area, Khiva celebrated its 2500th anniversary in 1997. Like so much of history, the name of Khiva is a mystery. Also, like so much history, many contradictory stories have been told to explain it. Khiva is split into … Read more
Tashkent Metro System
May 6, 2026 Our guide joked that the most beautiful Metro stations in all of Uzbekistan were in Tashkent. Of course, Tashkent is the only city in Uzbekistan with a Metro System. The system opened in 1977 while Uzbekistan was part of the Soviet Union. It was the first metro in Central Asia. There are … Read more
Exploring Tashkent
May 6, 2026 Tashkent – Day 2 Islamic Civilization Center The Islamic Civilization Center is one of those experiences that is both divine and absolutely frustrating. The building itself is a three-story structure with a total area exceeding 430,000 square feet. It is topped with a 35-foot-tall dome. In an attempt to show more than … Read more
Uzbekistan – At Last
May 5, 2026 Tashkent – Day 1 I have tried to get to Uzbekistan for seven years. For various reasons, everything fell through until this year. The trip is interesting. We are beginning in Tashkent, the capitol and working our way to Samarkand. So, if you will, we are starting with somewhat modern history and … Read more
Cruising The Bosphorus
May 2, 2026 When in Istanbul, you are surrounded by water and history. I had taken a cruise down the Bosphorus many years ago in summer, when you could do it by ferry. But the ferry schedule changes later in the year, so we were forced to take a tour. It isn’t ideal, but it … Read more
Istanbul the Asian Side – Kadikoy and Moda
May 1, 2026 I am traveling with my friend Susan, who loves to go on market and food tours. Because of this, my palette has expanded greatly, and I have been able to try foods I might not otherwise have. Today, we headed to the Asian side of Istanbul for a wonderful food tour. Getting … Read more
Istanbul – The European Side
April 30, 2026 I am back in Istanbul for a very quick 5-day stop. Istanbul has always been one of my favorite cities in the world, and I have explored it many times over the years. On my last visit, in 2023, I stayed at the Pera Palace in Tepebasi Beyoglu on the other side … Read more
Wandering Paris in September
September 2025 There is so much of Paris that just pops up while wandering. These are some of the moments I caught on Camera. It is not often you get a view over the tracks in a metro station. I had a lot of fun with these. The first Space Invader mosaic appeared in Paris … Read more
A Stroll through The 1st Arrondissement
September 2025 The First Arrondissement is also called The Louvre The Cauldron Two years after the Paris 2024 Games, the cauldron, designed by Mathieu Lehanneur, was lit up in the Tuileries Gardens. French President Emmanuel Macron has said it will fly over the Tuilleries each summer until the Los Angeles Olympics. I took a picture … Read more
Strolling in the Second and Third Arrondissement
September 2025 The 2nd – The Bourse The Bourse refers to the Palais Brongniart, the seat of the Paris stock exchange, dating from 1826. This arrondissement is also the smallest in the city, with only 99 hectares. The Tour Jean-sans-Peur or Tour de Jean sans Peur is the last vestige of the Hôtel de Bourgogne, … Read more
Exploring the 4th Arrondissement
September 2025 The 4th is called Hôtel-de-Ville. It refers to the city hall at the corner of rue de Rivoli and rue de Lobau. The site has been the center of municipal authority since the Middle Ages. Maison de Victor Hugo I am always so embarrassed when I realize how close Victor Hugo’s home was … Read more
A Slow Stroll in the 5th Arrondissement
September 2025 The 5th is called Panthéon. The name comes from the grand monument on the hill built for Louis XV and later turned into a national mausoleum after the French Revolution. One of the more important and fun things to do in the 5th is to stroll Rue Mouffetard. * This pedestrianised street, … Read more
A Gorgeous Day in the 6th
September 27, 2025 The 6th is called Luxembourg. It takes its name from the palace built by Marie de Médicis in the early 1600s, which today serves as the seat of the Senate. The 6th Arrondissement is probably my favorite. I lived in the 6th for a while in the 70s and always find myself … Read more
Eclectic Mix of Things in the 7th and 8th and 9th Arrondissements
September 2025 The 7th The 7th is an interesting Arrondissement. It is called Palais-Bourbon in reference to the seat of the National Assembly. It is also one of the most affluent and prestigious arrondissements of Paris. It includes some of the more well-known tourist attractions, the Eiffel Tower, the Hôtel des Invalides, the Chapel of … Read more
Exploring the 10th and 11th Arrondissement
September 2025 The 10th The 10th is called Entrepôt. The arrondissement once contained the central customs warehouse on rue Léon-Jouhaux. This depot processed goods entering the capital and shaped the area’s working-class identity. The 10th is home to Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est, so many people pass through the arrondissement even if they don’t … Read more
Vineyards of Paris
August 2025 Paris has five vineyards within the city limits. This trip, I made it a goal to see all 5. Close Montmartre – the 18th Arrondissement I have visited the vineyards of Montmartre many times, thinking they were the only ones in Paris. I was wrong, there are currently five. So this trip, I … Read more
Ambling the 13th Arrondissement
September 2025 The 13th is called Gobelins after the Gobelin family, whose factory is described below. I got off the raised metro at the Chevaralet station and began my walk along this gorgeous promenade under the metro tracks. My first stop was the hospital for nothing more than to set eyes on a very historical … Read more
Small Neighborhoods in the 14th
September 2025 The 14th is called Observatoire. It refers to the Paris Observatory Plaisance The little area of Plaisance contains the street Rue de Thermopylas and Cité Bauer. It is a quiet, quirky neighborhood you would expect in such an arty arrondissement. Rue des Thermopyles was a private road until 1959, when it opened to … Read more
Villa Seurat in the 14th Arrondissement
September 2025 In 2021, I took a walking tour with Flo through some artistic areas in both the 15th and 14th Arrondissements. We didn’t hit them all so I wanted to go back and explore a few in the 14th in more detail. Villa Seurat Villa Seurat was a focal point for Parisian artistic and … Read more
Two Gardens of the 15th Arrondissement
September 2025 The 15th is called Vaugirard, a commune annexed in 1860. Parc Andre Citroen In 1915, Citroën built its factory on the banks of the Seine. It operated there until the 1970s. The abandoned space ultimately gave rise to the Parc André Citroën. The park was designed in the early 1990s by landscape designers … Read more
Wandering the 15th Arrondissement
September 2025 Exploring the 15th is exhausting. At 3.3 square miles, it is the third-largest arrondissement in Paris; it would be the largest if the Bois de Boulogne and Bois de Vincennes were not counted as part of the 16th and 12th arrondissements, respectively. It is also the most populous. So it isn’t hard to … Read more
Balzac and a Chambre de Bonne with a Killer View in the 16th Arrondissement
September 2024 Called Passy, the 16th was once a spa village known for mineral springs and countryside retreats; it was absorbed during Haussmann’s expansion. The 16th is home to the Arc de Triomphe, the Bois de Boulogne, the Maison de Balzac, and a lot of really great museums. From there, it is a primarily quiet … Read more
Touring WWII Sites in Paris
September 2025 I once again had the pleasure of taking a walking tour of Paris with Flo. It was a private tour of what it was like to be in Paris during the occupation. On May 10, 1940, when Germany attacked France, the French government moved its headquarters to Vichy. From there, a nominal French … Read more
Parc de Bercy and Frank Gehry
September 2025 I went to Parc de Bercy to find its vineyard and found oh so much more. Parc de Bercy is located along the Right Bank in the 12th arrondissement. Development of the park began in 1994 on the site of a former wine depot (the wine warehouses of Bercy, which in the early … Read more
Céleste Boursier-Mougenot at the Bourse
September 2025 I try to visit The Bourse de Commerce if for no other reason than the exhibitions that they have under the rotunda never cease to amaze. This time, I was able to see clinamen, an aquatic and musical installation by Céleste Boursier-Mougenot. The installation was so soothing that one could sit all day … Read more
Clowns in the 11th Arrondissement
September 25, 2025 The Cirque d’Hiver The Cirque d’Hiver was inaugurated by the newly crowned Napoleon III on December 11, 1852, and is said to be the oldest circus in the world. Duc de Morny, half-brother of Prince Louis-Napoleon, obtained a building permit to build on the site of an old water tower on the … Read more
Musee Des Arts Forains
September 2025 This is one of the more magical places you will step into. Unfortunately, like so many magical places, the pictures will not do it justice; you just have to go see for yourself. Le Musée des Arts Forains, Paris, is dedicated to fairground arts, theater, and other curiosities. This is a step back in … Read more
A Day in Reims – Champagne
September 2025 The cathedral was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and was the traditional location for the coronation of the kings of France. It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991. The cathedral is considered to be one of the most important works of Gothic architecture, and the Sculptors were pioneers of … Read more
Versailles Gardens
September 8, 2025 This will have been my third visit to Versailles. I seem to put between 2o and 30 years between each visit, and yet, nothing has changed. I came with some friends who had never been, so I left them to tour the house while I decided to concentrate on the gardens. I … Read more
Visiting Friends Outside Paris – Herblay-Sur-Seine
September 6, 2025 I have met so many lovely expats on this trip. Peter and François invited a group of us for lunch on a hot, but lazy Saturday with a little tour of the area. The Saint-Martin d’Herblay church was built in the 12th century in the Gothic style, on a Latin cross plan. … Read more
The Gardens of the 17th Arrondissement
September 2, 2025 Parc Monceau is one of my favorite parks in Paris. I had written about it when I was here in 2021. Today I found other parks in the 17th. Square des Batignolles The 17th is named after Batignolles-Monceau. A pair of former villages merged into Paris as it grew. The Square des … Read more
The 17th Arrondissement
September 2, 2025 The 17th is known as the Batignolles-Moncea, a mouthful for sure. The 17th is anchored by the Arc de Triomphe. The Arc sits on a plaza known as L’Étoile due to the eleven streets that lead off of it, like rays from the sun. During the second half of the 19th century, … Read more
18th Arrondissement
August 2025 The 18th is called Buttes-Montmartre. The name refers to the hilly terrain shaped by gypsum quarries long before artists arrived. The 18th is best known for Sacre Coeur and the Moulin Rouge. But there is more. The windmill Moulin de la Galette, also known as Blute-fin, was built in 1622. The name Blute-fin … Read more
Montmartre Cemetery
August 30, 2025 I had been to Montmartre Cemetery many years ago, so it was a pleasure to return and refresh my memory. I had always liked this cemetery for its calmness and beauty. In the mid-18th century, overcrowding in Paris’s cemeteries had created numerous problems, ranging from impossibly high funeral costs to unsanitary living … Read more
Revisiting the 19th Arrondissement
August 28, 2025 The 19th is Buttes-Chaumont. It takes its name from the steep heights that later became the park inaugurated under Napoleon III. In December of 2021, I explored the Buttes-Chaumont and more and wrote about the 19th Arrondissement. I went back today to spend a little more time. Parc De La Villette La … Read more
La Campagne à Paris – the 20th Arrondissement
August 2025 La Campagne à Paris means “The Countryside in Paris” in English. This little neighborhood was founded as a cooperative intended for working-class families by pastor Sully Lombard in 1907, and consists of 92 charming garden houses built of bricks or millstones. The site chosen for this venture was once a gypsum quarry, abandoned … Read more
A Walk Through The 20th Arrondissement
August 2025 The 20th is called Ménilmontant. A hillside hamlet named for its rising slope (“montant”). It was once known for vineyards and windmills. I spent the day walking the 20th. As I said, it was in the 80s, a temperature I do not fare will in. I have written about the parks I took … Read more
20th Arrondissement – The Parks
August 2025 I am back in Paris for 5 weeks. It is in the 80s, not something I am very UNcomfortable with. So I decided to start my exploration in the 20th because it is known for its parks, and I had hoped it would be slightly cooler than the 16th, where I am staying. … Read more
Baddesley Clinton
August 17, 2025 Baddesley has Saxon origins, although no buildings from the time remain. A man called Baeddi, Badde, or Bade drove his cattle up to the Forest of Arden and made a protected clearing in the wood for extra grazing. Such a clearing was known as a ‘leah’ or ‘ley’ – hence Badde’s Ley. … Read more
Newstead Abbey and Lord Byron
August 16, 2025 Newstead Abbey was formerly an Augustinian priory. Converted to a domestic home following the Dissolution of the Monasteries, it is now best known as the ancestral home of Lord Byron. As with all historic houses in the UK, one needs to attempt to grasp the lineage of the family. Sir John Byron … Read more
Southwell Minster
August 15, 2025 The current church is the successor to one built in 956 by Oscytel, archbishop of York. Some late eleventh-century fabric survives from this church, but the majority of the building dates from between 1108 and c. 1150, when it was reconstructed in the Romanesque style. The Norman reconstruction of the church began in … Read more
Belvoir Castle and Woolsthorpe
August 14, 2025 Belvoir Castle Belvoir Castle is pronounced beaver castle. Belvoir Castle is considered a faux historic castle. A castle was first built on the site immediately after the Norman Conquest of 1066 and has since been rebuilt at least three times. The final building is a Grade I listed mock castle, dating from … Read more
Wollaton House and Keddleston Hall
August 13, 2025 Wollaton House Wollaton Hall in Nottinghamshire was built between 1580 and 1588 for Sir Francis Willoughby and is believed to be designed by the Elizabethan architect, Robert Smythson. The floor plan has been said to derive from Serlio’s drawing (in Book III of his Five Books of Architecture) of Giuliano da … Read more
Hardwick Hall – More Glass Than Wall
August 12, 2025 Hardwick Hall is a rather awe-inspiring and overwhelming place. It begins with Bess of Hardwick. Four highly profitable marriages, Bess of Hardwick rose to the highest levels of English nobility and became enormously wealthy. The woman was a shrewd businesswoman in her own right, increasing her assets with business interests including mines … Read more
Bolsover Castle and Sutter Scarsdale
August 12, 2025 Bolsover Castle The Peverel family built the original castle in the 12th century. It became Crown property in 1155 when William Peverel the Younger died. When a group of barons led by King Henry II’s sons revolted against the King’s rule, Henry spent £116 on building at the castles of Bolsover. The … Read more
Derbyshire
August 2025 Susan and I began this week traveling with a dear old friend of mine, James. It is hard to explain how vast James’ knowledge is when it comes to history, so I will let his bio with a publishing company speak to it. James Hargrave has a PhD in Economic History from the … Read more
Driving to Giverny
August 1, 2025 It is a lovely country drive from Rouen to Giverny with some sightseeing along the way. Chateau Gaillard Château Gaillard is a medieval castle ruin overlooking the River Seine above the commune of Les Andelys. Construction began in 1196 under the auspices of Richard the Lionheart, who was simultaneously King of England … Read more
The Town of Rouen
July 31, 2025 The town of Rueon is absolutely magical, and I wish I had many more days to explore. The Church of Saint Joan of Arc was completed in 1979 in the centre of the ancient market square, known as the Place du Vieux-Marché, where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake for heresy … Read more
Rouen Cathedral
July 31, 2025 Rouen is absolutely magical. Rouen Cathedral One of the more popular sites in Rouen is the Rouen Cathedral. The Cathedral is renowned for its three towers, each in a distinct architectural style. The cathedral, built and rebuilt over more than eight hundred years, features elements ranging from Early Gothic to late Flamboyant … Read more
Driving to Rouen
July 30 and 31, 2025 It was a long day driving from Bayeux to Rouen, but it was filled with gorgeous things along the way. When Americans think of Normandy, they think of WWII and the beaches. It is, of course, so much more. Normandy is divided into five official départements—Eure and Seine-Maritime in … Read more
The Architecture of Bayeux
July 2025 Bayeux Cathedral With its combination of Norman and Romanesque architecture, as well as Gothic spires, the Cathedral dominates the skyline of Bayeux. The site is an ancient one and was once occupied by Roman sanctuaries. The present cathedral was consecrated on July 15, 1077, in the presence of William, Duke of Normandy. Following serious … Read more
The Town of Bayeux
Scenes From Around the City of Bayeux The city of Bayeux is on the English Channel, a mere seven miles from the English Coast. Bayeux was founded as a Gallo-Roman settlement in the 1st century BCE under the name Augustodurum, The building below is the side of the building belonging to the Bayeux Augustinian Hospital … Read more
Bayeux Tapestry
July 29, 2025 The Bayeux Tapestry Making headquarters in the small town of Bayeux for 3 nights is a lovely thing to do. It is a quaint town, albeit filled with tourists. Some to see the beaches of Normandy and some to see the Bayeux Tapestry. Photos are not allowed in the gallery of the … Read more
Omaha and Utah Beach and La Pointe du Hoc
July 28th 2025 This was a full box of Kleenex, mascara running day. Omaha and Utah Landing Sites I am standing at the Omaha landing site, approximately where the Western and Eastern Task Force dotted white line is on the above map, at the far end of the American landings. This is looking towards the … Read more
Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial
July 28, 2025 The mosaic is by Leon Kroll. Completed in 1953, it comprises 500,000 tiles and tells a full round story “of war and peace.” One side depicts Columbia (Goddess of Liberty) allegorically representing America blessing “her rifle-bearing son before he departs to fight overseas. Above him, a warship and a bomber push through … Read more
Driving the Normandy Coast
July 27, 2025 The day began with a stop in the town of Avarnches, and in particular, the Scriptorial. The Scriptorial Museum is the only museum in France dedicated to the presentation of ancient manuscripts and in particular the collection of manuscripts of the Abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel. Hombye Abbey The Abbey of Notre Dame of … Read more
Mont Saint Michel
July 26, 2025 It is hard to believe, but I had never been to Mont Saint-Michel. Sadly, we arrived late in the evening, and the monastery was not open; however, there was still plenty of time to explore the island. The island was originally called Mont-Tombe but became known as Mont-Saint-Michel in the 8th century, … Read more
Driving The Brittany Coast
July 26, 2025 Temple of Lenleff Lanleff’s temple is a pink sandstone ruin in Brittany. It is a round church said to be reminiscent of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. The exact age and the exact usage of this building are unknown. The earliest known references to the building date back to … Read more
The Pink Granite Coast – Brittany
July 25, 2025 This stop was probably more about relaxing than visiting and sightseeing. We are staying at the Grand Hotel Perros-Guirec with rooms right on the sea. * * * The Pink Granite Coast spans approximately 18 miles and is aptly named due to the immense pinkish-gold granite boulders. The Men Ruz Lighthouse sits … Read more
The Valley of Saints
July 23, 2024 I read about this site without conducting enough research. When we arrived, I was surprised to find it was a modern site of sculptures of Saints. After just a short time, I went from being disappointed at being lured into what felt like a tourist trap to having a fascinating and fun … Read more
The Cairns of Petit Mont and Gavrinis
July 22, 2025 The day was spent wandering between Le Petit Mont and Gavrinis and visiting sites in between. Gavrinis requires a reservation, and the last we could capture was 6:30 at night. The sun does not set until nearly 10:00 pm at this time of year, so it wasn’t as late as it seemed. … Read more
Visiting Britanny Between Cairns, Tumulus and Dolmen
July 22, 2025 It was another full day of cairns, lovely towns and gorgeous scenery. Auray and Le Bono The day began with a little American history in the Port of Saint Gustan. In 1776, when Benjamin Franklin set foot on French soil to seek support in the American War of Independence, he came ashore … Read more
Alignements of Carnac
July 21, 2025 I am traveling with my friend Susan. You know you have a good travel buddy when you both get excited about spending the day looking at rocks. Today, we spent the day driving from one end to the other of an area of Brittany known for its stone structures—the Alignements Du Carnac. … Read more
London Mail Rail
July 12, 2025 I have wanted to ride this silly mail train for years, and finally found the time. The Post Office Railway—commonly known as “Mail Rail”—was an automatic narrow-gauge, electric railway created to speed Royal Mail delivery in London by bypassing the city’s congested streets. It was built by the Post Office with assistance … Read more
Crystal Palace Park
July 11, 2025 I wrote of the Crystal Palace when I was here in the summer of 2024. At the time, I was exploring the Albertopolis. This trip, I went exploring the grounds where the Crystal Palace had been relocated after the 1851 exhibition. The temperatures were in the high 80s, and much of the … Read more
Bromptom and West Norwood Cemeteries
July 10 and 11 2025 These finish my quest to see all of the Magnificent Seven cemeteries of London. The 7 are Kensal Green Cemetery, West Norwood Cemetery, Highgate Cemetery, Abney Park Cemetery, Brompton Cemetery, Nunhead Cemetery, and Tower Hamlets Cemetery. Brompton Cemetery Brompton Cemetery was opened in 1840 as the West of London Cemetery. … Read more
The V and A East Storehouse
July 9, 2025 The V&A East Storehouse is a purpose-built public space designed by architects Diller Scofidio+Renfro with support from UK-based architects Austin-Smith:Lord. Opened just a month prior to my visit, the storehouse took over a section of the former London 2012 Olympics Media Centre in the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. Just a very … Read more
Continuing to Wander Tokyo
February 2025 Here are some more random things from Tokyo that caught my eye. Fifteen years ago, Tokyo architect Keisuke Oka began to construct a tower of concrete entirely by hand. It is ocated just a short walk from Mita Station. The name Arimaston is a combination of the Japanese words for ant, trout, and … Read more
Wandering Tokyo Finding Shrines and Such
March 2, 2025 Kira Yoshinaka was a high-ranking samurai immortalized in Japan as the notorious villain in Chushingura, the story of the 47 Ronin. In truth, Kira was greatly admired as a fair and good lord. He created a salt industry and expanded rice paddies for cultivating. This statue sits on a tiny patch of … Read more
Sumo Practice
February 2025 I love Sumo and was able to visit the Tatsunami beya (stable) for a practice. It was 1 and 1/2 hours of watching mem do rather incredible things with their giant bodies. The stable is one of the most prestigious in sumo. It was founded in 1876 by Onigazaki, but the current incarnation … Read more
Wandering Tokyo
February 2025 I have been to Tokyo several times, so this trip involved showing my sister and niece around, shopping with them, and observing oddball things that evoke that “only in Tokyo” thought. Shibuya Yoyogi Park Yoyogi Park stands on the site where the first successful powered aircraft flight in Japan took place. At the … Read more
Thirty-Six Hours at an Onsen
Hoshino Resorts Kinugawa Nikko, Japan February 27, 2025 Onsens are hot springs, often with bathing facilities and traditional inns, hotels, or resorts around them. They can be found throughout Japan. I have stayed at many, but I am writing about this one because it is currently my favorite. There are many types of onsens, often … Read more
Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park
Kanbayashi – Nagono – Japan February 24, 2025 Snow Monkey Park was established in 1964 as a conservation area. It is a one-mile walk from the entry to the park itself. It had been snowing heavily, so the large clods of snow falling from the trees were a tad scary. When they did fall, it … Read more
Going to the the Dogs and Cats
February 2025 Tokyo Toyokawa Inari Akasaka Shrine The Toyokawa Inari Shrine was established in 1828 at its present site. The temple’s origins can be traced back to a vision of the third son of Emperor Juntoku in the 13th century, who saw the deity Dakini-Shinten riding a white fox. During the Meiji era, when Buddhism … Read more
Otaru Yuki Akari no Michi – Snow Light Path Festival
February 12 and 13, 2025 When I was in Otaru in 2017, I read about the Yuki Akari no Michi which means “snow light path” in Japanese. I knew I wanted to return someday. The Otaru Snow Light Path Festival began in 1999 as a grassroots initiative by local residents and volunteers. The event’s goal … Read more
Otaru
February 13, 2025 I fell in love with Otaru on a trip in 2017. It has so much history and an incredible amount of charm, even in the snow. While I was here for the snow light path festival, I enjoyed the town during the day as well. Kitaichi Hall Kitaichi Glass is a long-established … Read more
Hokkaido Chocolate
February 2025 Shiroi Koibito Park – Sapporo Aside from the world’s best cold water fish, milk, and chocolate are two famous products of Hokkaido. Dairy farming dates back to the Meiji Restoration, when Western methods of agriculture were introduced, transforming Hokkaido into Japan’s dairy hub. Hokkaido milk is famous for its distinctive taste and texture … Read more
Ice Carvings – 2025 Sapporo Snow Festival
February 2025 The Sapporo Snow Festival has three venues. The Suskino Site is lined with ice sculptures. This site is far more crowded at night, with a considerable bar scene and an “ice” theme. * * * * * * * The weather was sporadic for the three days I was there—snow, wind, hail, and … Read more
Sapporo Snow Festival – 2025
February 2025 The Sapporo Snow Festival is one of the largest snow sculpture festivals in the world. The Festival started in 1950 when local high school students built six snow statues in Odori Park. It has grown in scale to a major international event that includes as many as 200 sculptures, some as tall as … Read more
Heading South
October 2024 October 7th, we headed south and crossed back across the Arctic Circle at 8:45 this morning. The Arctic Circle passes though Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia, Alaska (USA), Canada, Greenland (Denmark), and Grimsey Island (Iceland). There are markers and even tourist attractions at a few of these places. This is the one I saw … Read more
Northern Lights
October 2nd 2024 I am on a ship to see the Northern Lights. Sadly, the weather has not cooperated. Clouds make it difficult for the lights to be seen. On the 2nd, the clouds broke for a small period of time, and I was able to shoot these. It is very important to know that … Read more
Vesterålen
October 6, 2024 Vesterålen is an archipelago in Northern Norway. Its name comes from Old Norse. The first element is vestr, which means “west,” and the last element is áll, which means “(deep and narrow) sound” or “strait”. I came on this excursion to see Trondenes Church, although all of Vesterlain proved to be … Read more
The Coast of Norway – Hammerfest
October 5, 2024 Hammerfest is one of three cities in the world that claim to be the Northernmost. I will leave that argument for the pub. However, Hammerfest history is worth delving into. The town received its first doctor in 1792, but within a couple of decades, the population had been ravaged by plague and … Read more
The Norweigian Coast – Vardø
October 4, 2024 Vardø – Norway’s Easternmost Town On Christmas Eve, 1621, the northern coast of Norway suffered a vast and sudden storm. At the time, many of the local male population were at sea. Forty men on ten boats drowned. This tragedy coincided with new laws on sorcery and witchcraft that came with the union … Read more
The Coast of Norway – Bodø , Tromsø and Honningsvåg
October 2024 The ship crossed into the Arctic Circle in the middle of the night. The word Arctic has a fascinating etymology. The word “artik “pertains to the north pole of the heavens,” from Greek arktikos “of the north,” literally “of the (constellation) Bear,” from arktos “bear;” also “Ursa Major; the region of the north,” … Read more
The Coast of Norway – Trondheim
September 2023 Trondheim Like other cities in Norway, Trondheim has its own manhole covers. Their’s contain the Trondheim city coat of arms. The coat of arms represents the two important kings in Trondheim, Olav Tryggvason, who founded the city, and Olav the Holy, who, after his death, was declared a saint. Trondheim is the third most … Read more
The Coast of Norway – Urke and Alesund
September 2024 I boarded the MS Richard, a boat with the Hurtigruten Line, for their Astronomy Voyage along the Western Coast of Norway and into the Arctic Circle, focusing on the Northern Lights. Hurtigruten has a long and fascinating history. It began in 1893 with a steamer owned by Captain Richard With. Today, their coastal … Read more
Views, Views, Views
September 27, 2024 Bergen, also known historically as Bjørgvin, is believed to have been established by Olaf III of Norway. Bergen is where trade took off in the country, and it was the largest settlement in Scandinavia until the 16th century. It was a gorgeous day in Bergen. Considering that it rains 239 days … Read more
Historic Bryggen
September 27, 2024 The very first buildings in Bergen were at Bryggen, a vibrant and important area of the city for many centuries. It is also a highly visited and photographed area. Thanks to wooden houses, Bergen, including the neighborhood of Bryggen, burned down several times throughout history. There are 61 buildings in Bryggen, and … Read more
Randomly Walking in Bergen, Norway
September 2024 You have to love a town that takes this much care with its bandstand in the public park. The music pavilion is cast iron and was given to Bergen by F.G. Gade in 1899. St. Jørgen´s Hospital St. Jørgen´s Hospital has existed in Bergen since the 15th century, but nothing remains from the … Read more
Stave Churches
September 24, 2024 Gol Stave Gol Stave is a 12th-century stave church originally from Gol in the region of Hallingdal, Norway. The reconstructed church is now located in the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History. Although stave churches were common throughout Northern Europe in the Middle Ages, only about 30 stave churches survive in Norway, nearly … Read more
Vigeland Sculpture Park
September 2024 The sculpture park is the embodiment of the life work of Gustav Vigeland. The park contains over 200 of his sculptures in granite, bronze, and wrought iron installed mainly in the period 1940-1949. Born in 1869, Gustav Vigeland is the most celebrated sculptor in Norway. He conceived the idea of creating an outdoor … Read more
A Day Wandering Oslo, Norway
September 2024 On the side of the main train station is Knus Nazismen. It was dedicated by five remaining members of the Osvald group, a Norwegian organization active during World War II. The organization committed at least 110 acts of sabotage against Nazi occupying forces and the collaborationist government of Vidkun Quisling. On February … Read more
Oslo City Hall and the Nobel Peace Center
September 2024 The Nobel Peace Center building was purchased from Consul General Christophersen in 1903. The architects Carl and Jørgen Berner were commissioned to reconstruct it. Carl Berner designed much of the interior in the “art nouveau” style popular at the time, as opposed to the neo-classical design of the exterior. When the Nobel Committee … Read more
Norway’s Rich Maritime History
September 2024 Kon Tiki Museum I grew up with stories of Thor Hyerdahl and Roald Amundsen, so visiting these museums on a very rainy day was a real education. Hyerdahl was a handsome adventurer and Norwegian ethnologist who became famous by organizing and leading the famous Kon-Tiki (1947) and Ra (1969–70) transoceanic scientific expeditions. On … Read more
Norsk Folkemuseum
The Norse Folk Museum September 24, 2024 I could have spent an entire week at the Folk Museum. It has 160 historic buildings and focuses on the period from 1500 until the present. There is also room upon room with art, clothing, and items related to Norway’s history. Norsk Folkemuseum was founded by Hans Aall … Read more
Bjørvika Neighborhood of Oslo
September 2024 I have never been to Norway, so this is a new adventure. I have come to view the Northern Lights, but that will be in another week. For now, I am enjoying Oslo. It is a fascinating city with incredible architecture, delightful people, and perfect weather. According to legend Thorny Hallvard, the cousin … Read more
Last days Wandering London
July 2024 There are two of these unique huts in Grosvenor Gardens. The Gardens have been known as “London’s French Garden” since at least 1952. The Gardens were used as air raid shelters during the Second World War. After the war, it was decided that the gardens needed smartening up, and the huts were installed … Read more
Ceremony of the Keys – Tower of London
July 28, 2024 My friend Susan arranged for us to attend the Ceremony of the Keys at the Tower of London. It is a humbling experience that takes months to obtain tickets, and only 50 people are allowed to attend per evening. The Ceremony of the Keys is an ancient ritual in which the main … Read more
Abney Park Cemetery
July 2024 I managed to squeeze in my sixth of the Magnificent Seven cemeteries in London before my departure. Abney Park in the Borough of Hackney was laid out in the early 18th century by Lady Mary Abney, Dr. Isaac Watts, and the neighboring Hartopp family. The architect was John Hoskins. The cemetery is named … Read more
Royal Pavillion Brighton
July 2024 Where do I start? A few days ago I was touring Buckingham Palace with my friend Susan (no photos allowed). I was absolutely gobsmacked by the East Wing (a tour you need to sign up for weeks in advance; thank you, Susan). As I kept attempting to pick my jaw up from the … Read more
Two Cemeteries – Two Nature Reserves
July 2024 In a, not quite accomplished yet, attempt at seeing the Magnificent Seven, I was able to get to four on this trip. The Magnificent Seven is an informal term applied to seven large private cemeteries in London. These are Kensal Green Cemetery, West Norwood Cemetery, Highgate Cemetery, Abney Park Cemetery, Brompton Cemetery, Nunhead … Read more
Crossbones and Kensal Green Cemeteries
July 2024 Crossbones Cemetery Wandering near the Tate Modern, I found this small graveyard that is only open three days a week for a few hours, and then, only if they can find volunteers. I was lucky! Depending on what/who you read, the stories vary, but the gist is that Cross Bones is a disused … Read more
19th Century Authors – An Oxford Education
July 2024 I have spent the last week at Oxford Experience, and the class I chose was Modernist Literature Through Oxford and London, concentrating on Dorothy Sayers’s Gaudy Nights, T.S. Eliot’s Wasteland, Virginia Woolf’s Mrs. Dalloway and the writings and paintings of Wyndham Lewis. Virginia Woolf and others of her era were part of what … Read more
Busbridge Parish Church
July 2024 Busbridge Church was founded by John and Emma Ramsden of Busbridge Hall. Building work took place between 1865 and 1867 and finished with the building’s dedication in 1867. The church was designed by George Gilbert Scott a leading Gothic Revival architect. The front porch’s oak frame was carved by William Farmer, who worked … Read more
Watts Gallery Artists Village
July 2024 Watts Gallery is a gallery and an Artists’ Village in the village of Compton. Mary Fraser-Tytler Watts created it as an homage to the work of her husband, Victorian-era painter and sculptor George Frederic Watts. The chapel, designed by Mary and assembled by the local villagers, is the center and most awe-inspiring thing … Read more
Norney Grange
July 2024 Norney Grange was designed in 1897 by Charles Voysey, a Arts and Crafts Movement member, for the Reverend Leighton Crane. The name Norney Grange is probably a corruption of Reverend Crane’s name, as it is clear that there has never been a barn or ‘grange’ on this site. Voysey built several houses … Read more
Jekyll and Lutyens – Lutyens and Jekyll
July 2024 Munstead Wood Munstead Wood is a collaboration between Gertrude Jekyll and Edwin Lutyens. A collaboration of the finest quality and achieved perfection. The garden was the creation of Jekyll, who became widely known through her books and prolific articles in magazines such as Country Life. The Arts and Crafts style house in which … Read more
Crossness Pumping Station – London
July 2024 The Crossness Pumping Station is a former sewage pumping station designed by the Metropolitan Board of Works’ chief engineer, Sir Joseph Bazalgette, and architect Charles Henry Driver. In the 19th century, London’s population numbered around 2 million. The city suffered fatal epidemics of cholera, and thousands died as the Victorians had no known … Read more
Standen House and Gardens
July 2024 Philip Webb designed this house between 1891 and 1894 for London solicitor, James Beale, his wife Margaret, and their family of seven children. The house is constructed in the Wealden vernacular style with sandstone quarried from the estate and locally made bricks and tiles. The interior is decorated with Morris carpets, fabrics, and … Read more
Bedford Park and Highgate Cemetery
July 2024 Bedford Park Bedford Park in Chiswick began in 1875 under the direction of Jonathan Carr. It has many large houses in the British Queen Anne Revival style by Norman Shaw and other leading Victorian-era architects, including Edward William Godwin, Edward John May, Henry Wilson, and Maurice Bingham Adams. Its architecture is characterized by … Read more
Sambourne House
July 2024 18 Stafford Terrace was the home of the Punch illustrator Edward Linley Sambourne (1844–1910) and his wife Marion. The house is an excellent example of middle-class Aestheticism and a lot of eclecticism. Throughout are decorative Sunflower motifs in the stained glass windows, William Morris wallpapers, a collection of blue-and-white Chinese import porcelain, and … Read more
Leighton House
July 2024 Leighton House is part of Holland Circle but deserves a post of its own. Leighton House was once the home of painter Frederic Leighton, 1st Baron Leighton (1830–1896). Leighton commissioned the architect and designer George Aitchison to build a combined home and studio for him. On the ground floor is a spectacular tile-covered … Read more
Holland Park And 19th Century Artists
July 2024 Holland Park is an area of Kensington, surrounds its namesake park, Holland Park and colloquially referred to as ‘Millionaire’s Row’ as it is one of the most expensive areas of London. Sir Walter Cope built Cope Castle, which was a Jacobean mansion hidden in the woods of Holland Park, around 1605-1608. Sir Walter … Read more
Kelmscott Manor
July 2024 It is impossible to study the 19th Century without a good dousing of William Morris. Kelmscott Manor was one of two country estates owned by Morris. Kelmscott Manor dates from around 1570 and has a late 17th-century wing. From 1871 until he died in 1896, it was the country home of the writer, … Read more
A Fast Run Through Oxford
July 2024 Fortunately, this was not my first or last trip to Oxford. Today, I am here with the VSA and getting a very small taste of the Victorian aspect of Oxford from the delightful Classicist and architectural historian Peter Howell. It was a mere 4 hours. Pusey Memorial Hall * Pusey Memorial House was … Read more
Buscot Park and the Faringdon Collection
July 10, 2024 Buscot Park was built in an austere neoclassical style between 1780 and 1783 for Edward Loveden Loveden. The house is constructed of local stone and materials with Portland stone adornments. The roof is of Westmorland slate. The mansion’s interior has been considerably altered and restored since its completion. The Lord and … Read more
Rodmarton Manor – Gloucestershire
July 2024 Rodmarton Manor Rodmarton was built for the Biddulph family, who still reside there. For this reason, photos are not allowed inside. The manor was constructed in the early 20th century in an Arts and Crafts style, to a design by Ernest Barnsley. After Ernest died in 1925, it was completed by Sidney Barnsley, … Read more
All Saints Church Selsley
July 2024 This church in the rolling hills of Gloucestershire is most notable for its collaboration amongst the greats of the Arts and Crafts Movement in England. It is a celebrated early work by the important church architect G F Bodley, incorporating notable stained glass by William Morris and his company Morris & Co. You … Read more
Two Churches
July 2024 Ullet Road Unitarian Church * The Ullet Road Church was the first place of worship in the United Kingdom to register a civil partnership for a same-sex couple. The interior of the church is lined with sandstone from Runcorn quarries. The architectural style is Gothic Revival, with Art Nouveau features. The architects Thomas … Read more
Wightwick Manor
July 8, 2024 The last many days have been an overwhelming marathon of architecture. Today, we were at Wightwick Manor, and I discovered the gardens. While the house had some wonders, I needed to sit and take in the garden, which was ideal. As a background: Wightwick Manor is a Victorian house commissioned in 1887 … Read more
Port Sunlight
July 8, 2024 Sunlight household soap was introduced by the British company Lever Brothers in 1884. It was the world’s first packaged, branded laundry soap. Before this, one had to go to the grocery store and buy a chunk of soap, keeping in one’s budget. Sunlight came prepackaged and was easy to purchase. The soap … Read more
Liverpool, England
July 2024 Liverpool Cathedral, the longest cathedral in the world, was constructed between 1904 and 1978, based on a design by Giles Gilbert Scott. The pictures will never do it justice. St James Cemetery The Cathedral towers over St. James Cemetery, which opened in 1829 and contains 57,839 recorded burials. It closed in 1936. Downtown … Read more
The Docks of Liverpool, England
July 2024 The first thing that comes to mind for many when speaking of Liverpool is The Beatles. But Liverpool is so much more. The city is located on the eastern side of the Mersey Estuary (Think Gerry and the Pacemakers) adjacent to the Irish Sea and is approximately 178 miles from London. Liverpool was … Read more
Walking Manchester, England
July 2024 I want to begin this post with an apology. Manchester is an amazing city. My group had two guides from the Victorian Society of the UK, and their knowledge, not only of the sites but their weaving of British history into the entire day, made it long but one of the more educational … Read more
St. Giles’ Church Cheadle
July 2024 St Giles was designed by Augustus Welby Northmore Pugin (1812- 1852) and is considered his most splendid work. This Gothic Revival wonder was created by the same man who created the interiors of the House of Parliament. St. Giles was originally to be a modest-sized parish church sufficient for the Catholic population of … Read more
The Church of Holy Angels – Hoar Cross
July 2024 It is often difficult to travel long distances and visit building after building and not have them run together. Then there is someone or something that makes the place, special and something you know you will remember for a very long time. Canon Paul Greenwall is the Vicar of Hoar Cross and he … Read more
Churches of Staffordshire
July 2024 We visited four churches in Staffordshire all in one afternoon. It was very overwhelming but fascinating to observe the vast differences in design and style back to back. All Saints Leek All Saints Leek is one of sixteen churches designed by Richard Norman Shaw (1831-1912). Shaw was a dominant figure in nineteenth-century architecture, … Read more
Wandering Birmingham England
July 5, 2024 Birmingham—or ‘Brum’ as it’s affectionately known—is an incredibly architecturally varied city. It was once called the City of a Thousand Trades. I am traveling with the Victorian Society in America so the buildings we are seeing and what I am writing about here are primarily of that era. The foundation stone of … Read more
The Jewelry Quarter – Birmingham, England
July 4, 2024 According to the Birmingham Directory of 1780, there were 26 jewelers at the time. Because the definition of a jeweler was not explained in the directory, it is thought that the number of actual jewelers may be lower. It is thought that by the start of the 19th century, there were around … Read more
Northhampton, England
July 4, 2024 We were only able to stand outside the Northhampton Guildhall, and even then, it was too huge to photograph in its entirety. The building, the third guildhall, was designed by Edward William Godwin in the Gothic Revival style and officially opened on May 17, 1864. The stone carvings are the most impressive feature … Read more
Bedford England
July 4, 2024 The Panacea Museum The Panacea Museum was once the home of Joanna Southcott. It still houses her box of revelations. The house is a wonderful example of middle-class Victorian life, but her box and her preachings were the most interesting to me.* Joanna Southcott was born in 1750 and began having religious … Read more
Random London
July 3, 2024 The East End After revoking the Edict of Nantes, which granted Huguenots civil rights in October 1685, Louis XIV forbade them to leave France on pain of imprisonment, torture, and death. Despite that, around 50,000 came to England. They settled in small houses like this and began the trade of silk weaving. … Read more
Westminster Cathedral London
July 3, 2024 Westminster Cathedral Westminster Cathedral is the largest Roman Catholic church in England and Wales and the seat of the Cardinal Archbishop of Westminster. Designed by John Francis Bentley in the 9th century. The building is in the neo-Byzantine style and made almost entirely of brick without steel reinforcements. Sir John Betjeman called … Read more
Knightsbridge and Pimlico London
July 2, 2024 Knightsbridge Fire Station functioned from 1907 to 2014. These stunning terracotta columns and pilasters are on the backside of Harrods. The front of the building is a riot of ornamentation, but it is also scaffolded and is undergoing a large restoration. The Cadogan, a five-star hotel, holds the legacy of Oscar Wilde … Read more
Fleet Street – London
July 1, 2024 Fleet Street is one of the oldest streets in London. It was established in the time of the Romans as an important thoroughfare route. By the Middle Ages, it had begun to thrive, with senior clergy locating their palaces there. Fleet Street was also known for its general culture of debauchery, as … Read more
Walking the Albertopolis
June 30, 2024 Albertopolis is the nickname given to the area centered on Exhibition Road in London, named after Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s consort (husband). It contains many educational sites, including the Victoria and Albert Museum, the Science Museum, and the Natural History Museum. Exhibition Road gets its name from The Great Exhibition of the … Read more
Bloomsbury – London
June 29, 2024 One of my favorite buildings in this area is the Kimpton Fitzroy. It is famous for its thé-au-lait (“tea with milk”) terracotta frontage, which includes statues of four queens – Elizabeth I, Mary II, Victoria, and Anne. From 1900, when it was opened, until 2018, it was known by its original name … Read more
Westminster London
June 28, 2024 I am back in London for a month. Three of those weeks will be spent in school, but on my first day, recovering from a long air flight, I simply wandered around. I was staying at the Strand Palace in Westminster and that is where my roaming took me. * This is … Read more
A Walk Around Baltimore’s Mount Vernon
May 2024 This Washington Monument has graced Baltimore’s historic Mount Vernon neighborhood since 1829. It was based on a design submitted by architect Robert Mills. The 178-foot-tall landmark is the first in the U.S. dedicated to President George Washington. Four small parks surround the monument. Washington faces south towards Annapolis and is depicted resigning his … Read more
Walking the Federal Hill Neighborhood of Baltimore
May 2024 In 1788, Maryland ratified the the U.S. Constitution. On that day, 4,000 Baltimoreans gathered to celebrate, and the celebration concluded on the hill, giving it its name. In 1797, an observatory was opened at the hill’s peak, enabling merchants to receive advance word of ships approaching the harbor. During the War of 1812, … Read more
The Fells Point Neighborhood of Baltimore
May 2021 The Fells Point Neighborhood Fell’s Point is one of Baltimore’s oldest neighborhoods and was once a bustling shipbuilding port. It was home to jazz singer Billie Holiday and abolitionist Frederick Douglass. Today, there are more bars in Fells Point than in any other part of Baltimore, and many streets are still lined … Read more
Odds and Ends of Baltimore
May 2024 Prohibition began on January 17, 1920, and for the next 13 years, the bar operated as a speakeasy. At the time, owner Colonel Consolvo placed two large plaster owl statues on the cash registers. The owls were named Sherry Belle and John Eager Howard, and they had electric glass eyes that signaled the … Read more
One very quick day in Annapolis, Maryland
May 2024 I am on a tour, so the trip to Annapolis was brief, which is a shame because driving through Annapolis, it looked very intriguing; I will have to return one day. The Naval Academy Why a goat? There is a legend that a Navy ship once sailed with a pet goat and that … Read more
Morocco – The Atlas Mountains and The Sahara Desert
April 2024 Just a few years ago, I spent a very long time in Morocco. However, I had an opportunity to return with a wonderful gentleman, Professor Trevor Marchand. We visited many places I had seen, but we also ventured into and through the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara Desert and the home of the … Read more
Bringing Water to the Desert
April 2024 Ancient water systems are fascinating. The Qanat system originated approximately 3,000 years ago in what is now Iran. On the margins of the Sahara Desert in Morocco, the isolated oases of the Draa River valley and Tafilalt have relied on qanat water for irrigation since the late 14th century. The Qanat is a … Read more
Architecture of Morocco
April 2024 Berber Architecture The Berbers built traditional kasbahs and fortifications. The Berber clans were often fending off invaders, so they were assembled for practical purposes, built with protection and security in mind. They functioned as trading posts or were strategically located to ward off adversaries. In Morocco, the term “kasbah” in the Atlas Mountain … Read more
Morocco – Architectural Elements
April 2024 Zellij Tile Morocco isn’t Morocco without the Zellij tile. Zellij is a style of mosaic tilework made from individually hand-chiseled tile pieces. The pieces were typically different colors and fitted together to form various patterns, most notably elaborate Islamic geometric motifs such as radiating star patterns. This form of Islamic art is one … Read more
Odds and Ends – Morocco
April 2024 Valley of the Roses The M’Goun Valley is known as the Valley of the Roses in Morocco and is famous for its roses. No one knows how roses first came to the Atlas Mountains; however, according to legend, they were carried here centuries ago by a Berber merchant from Damascus; the species that … Read more
Odds and Ends As I Leave Tokyo
January 2024 Chiyoda City, Tokyo All shrines are packed to the gills during New Year’s, and Hie is no different. The shrine is close to the New Otani Hotel, and because of its 90 Tori gates, I love just stopping by and walking down the stairs. Asakusa Tokyo I remember these from my first visit … Read more
Aoyama Cemetery
January 2024 It is my last full day in Japan, and I spent it at the Aoyama Cemetary. If you know me, you are thinking, of course you did. This is a wonderful walk of small Japanese gardens and history. Aoyama was originally a burial site exclusively for the Japanese nobility at the beginning of … Read more
Japanese Fences
December 2023 I love the uniqueness of Japanese fences. Japanese-style fences, or “Sukiya-zukuri,” are rooted in traditional Japanese architecture—their origins date to the 16th century, when they were used to create boundaries and provide privacy. Over time, Japanese-style fences have become an essential element in Japanese landscape design. The fences above and below are called … Read more
Tokyo Architecture that has caught my eye.
November 2023 I love Tokyo for its rich history and cutting-edge modern architecture, and it is all jumbled together. Much of the outré architecture of Tokyo can be found on Odaiba. An artificial island, Odaiba was initially built in the 1850s for defensive purposes. The land was dramatically expanded during the late 20th century as … Read more
Beauty and Uniqueness Everywhere You Look
December 2023 There are always things when you travel that catch your eye. In the garden at Nijo-jo Castle, there are sotetsu (Sago palm) trees. These trees were the offerings from a Daimyo (regional feudal lord) for the Tokugawa Shogunate in the early Edo period. Quite obviously, they would never last the winters of Kyoto, … Read more
Happy New Year – 新年あけましておめでとう
Tokyo January 2024 New Year is the most important holiday in Japan. I have moved to the New Otani Hotel as most businesses shut down from December 29th to January 3, so unless you are in a hotel with a restaurant, you are going to have to do a lot of cooking on your own. … Read more
Tamozawa Imperial Villa
December 2023 Tamozawa Imperial Villa is one of the largest remaining wooden buildings in Japan. It was the largest mansion of the Meiji Era. So, this post will be a very long look at this stunning Japanese residence. There is a mix of both Japanese and European designs, such as carpets and chandeliers, but I … Read more
A Day in the Countryside
December 27, 2023 At the invitation of a Japanese friend who lives in Shimotsuke, Tochigi, my travel friend and I spent a day as her guest. Strawberry Picking It began with Strawberry picking at a pick-your-own, eat-all-you-can greenhouse farm. Tochigi is Japan’s top producer of strawberries. Japanese strawberries are considered one of the most delicious … Read more
Kabuki and Sumo
December 2023 Kabuki is thought to have originated in the early Edo period, when the art’s founder, Izumo no Okuni, formed a female dance troupe that performed dances and light sketches in Kyoto. The art form later developed into its present all-male theatrical form after women were banned from performing in kabuki theatre in 1629. … Read more
Ningyocho
December 2023 Ningyocho, Tokyo’s Doll Town Ningyocho is a neighborhood in the Nihonbashi district in Tokyo’s Chuo ward. Ningyocho (literally “Doll Town”) was licensed by the city as a pleasure district of Japan during the Edo period. The area had puppeteers, dollmakers, and craftsmen necessary to support the industry, as well as Kabuki. On the … Read more
Kappabashi – Taito City – Tokyo
December 2023 I love the off-beat you find in our world, and Japan specializes in it. Here are just a few random things that made me smile. I have touched on the manhole covers of Japan in many posts. This is for Taito City, which is a ward within Tokyo proper. These are characters from … Read more
Nikko Toshogu Shrine
December 25, 2023 Nikko is a two-hour train ride from Tokyo. Much of the town is a World Heritage Site. If one is to do it right, one should have at least two days with a night or two in an Onsen; however, I only had one day, and it was much too short. Nikko … Read more
Edo-Period Architecture of Hama-Rikyu
December 2023 I have a passion for Edo Era architecture and gardens. Hama-rikyu Gardens has three beautifully restored Edo-period buildings. Hama-rikyu Garden was once the property of the Tokugawa family and then the Imperial family. It was almost completely destroyed in the Great Kanto Earthquake and in the bombings of World War II. After the … Read more
The Rivers of Tokyo
December 2023 More than 100 rivers and canals flow beneath Tokyo. According to the Government of Japan in 2015: “The Sumida River, though only 23.5 kilometers (about 15 miles) long, flows through a densely populated area of central Tokyo, with about 3 million people living in its basin, and it is one of the … Read more
Tokyo’s Fishmarkets
December 22, 2023 I had the privilege of visiting the original inner Tsukiji fish market fifteen years ago when you could walk the floors with the chefs and the buyers. That era is gone. Tokyo’s Tsukiji wholesale fish market, one of the city’s most popular destinations for international visitors, closed in October 2018. It had … Read more
Kasuga Wakamija Onmatsuri
Nara Japan December 17th, 2023 I arrived in Nara with no idea that I had arrived for one of the most important festivals of the year. Kasuga Wakamija Onmatsuri is a Shinto festival that was originally created to pray away a disease epidemic. It later became associated with guaranteeing a good harvest because of the … Read more
Nara, Japan
December 17, 18, 2023 I have been to Nara before, as has my travel friend Susan, so here is a look at some of the typical tourist places we managed to re-visit. The next post will be an area of Nara I had never seen before. Nara Sento-kun is a mascot of Nara. It was … Read more
Naramachi
December 17, 18, 2023 Having been to Nara before, I was in Nara for some R&R this time. On arrival I discovered I had arrived for the Kasuga Wakamija Onmatsuri festivities. So, after re-visiting some of the highlights of Nara and spending many hours at the festivities, I managed to squeeze in a walk in … Read more
Saiho-ji Koke-dera
December 15, 2023 Saihō-ji is a Rinzai Zen Buddhist temple. It is famous for its moss garden and is commonly referred to as “Koke-dera,” meaning “moss temple”. Before entering the temple, one is required to sit in contemplation in the main hall and copy a very small part of a Buddhist Sutra in kanji. The … Read more
The Food and Osaka
December 2023 Long-standing stereotypes about Kansai (Western Japan) folks run as follows: Kyoto-ites spend their money on clothes, Kobe people on shoes, and Osakans blow all their cash on food. If this trip is any indication, that is very true. There are several food areas in Osaka, and they are as entertaining as they are … Read more
Random Kyoto
December 2023 Chion-in ( Monastery of Gratitude) Yasaka Pagoda Yasaka Kōshin-dō The temple is dedicated to Shomen Kongo, a guardian warrior, and to the three wise monkeys. The colored balls are kukurizaru. They represent control over playfulness and desire-driven behavior. Visitors make a wish by placing one of their (bad) desires into a kukurizaru and leaving it with … Read more
Ōkōchi Sansō
December 2o23 While the Bamboo Forest and other attractions of Arashiyama are jam-packed, Okochi Sanso is a serene oasis and a must-visit for a mere $7.00. Ōkōchi Sansō Villa is the former residence of Japanese film star Ōkōchi Denjirō (1898-1962). A period actor from the film “The Tale of Genji”, he was part of the … Read more
Higashi Hongan-ji and the Fires of Edo
December 10, 2023 Higashi Hongan-ji Higashi Hongan-ji, the head temple of the Ōtani-ha branch of Jōdo Shinshū, was most recently constructed in 1895 after a fire burned down the previous temple. In fact, Various parts of Higashi Honganji, including the Founder’s Hall and Amida Hall, burned down four times during the Japanese Edo Period. This temple … Read more
Uji City
December 2023 Uji is a small city between Kyoto and Nara, two of Japan’s most famous historical and cultural centers. Its proximity to these two former capitals resulted in Uji’s early development as a cultural center. In the Heian era (794-1185), Heian aristocrats maintained country houses in Uji. At the height of the political power … Read more
Architecture of The Imperial Palace
December 3, 2023 You can not enter any of the buildings on the Palace grounds, but you can stroll to your heart’s content. Years ago, I was struck by two things at the Imperial Palace: the architectural elements and the garden. Those are the two things that struck me as I walked through again fifteen … Read more
The Garden of the Imperial Palace in Kyoto
December 3, 2023 I have a passion for Japanese Gardens that verges on obsession. As one would expect, the garden of the Imperial Palace is near perfect. The development of gardens in Japan is closely connected to the changing lifestyle of Japan’s nobility and the changes in who holds the power. During the ninth through … Read more
Kennin-ji and Sor-ren-in Temples of Kyoto
December 2, 2023 The one thing you can get overwhelmed with and then exhausted from is the vast amount of temples in Kyoto. Over 1600 Buddhist temples are scattered throughout the Kyoto Prefecture, as well as 400 Shinto shrines. Those are the ones big enough to count. There are countless other small ones. How do … Read more
Strolling the Streets of Kyoto
December 2023 I spent this morning just doing a Sunday Saunter. It was nice to see a side of Kyoto that has history, beauty, and serenity. These are a few things that caught my eye. A random sign on one of the many, many shopping streets. During the Edo Period, the Tōkaidō road became the … Read more
A Rant Regarding Over-Tourism
December 2, 2023 I have discussed the fact that it is Momiji-gari season in Japan. I have attributed a large portion of the crowds to this since the lesser temples appear to be quiet and peaceful. Today was so bad that it gave even this seasoned traveler pause. I do not travel to be a … Read more
Kyoto, Japan – Kinkaku-ji and Ryoanji
November 30, 2023 I was in Kyoto with my late husband in 2009, and I have nothing but wonderful memories. I fell in love with Kyoto. I was not maintaining a website at the time, so my photos, as lovely as they are, sit in photo albums on a shelf. For this reason, I look … Read more
Momiji-gari at Nanzenji Temple
December 1, 2023 The tourists are rather overwhelming in Kyoto at present, and the reason is Momiji-gari. Momiji-gari literally means “hunting red leaves’. It derives from momiji (red leaves or maple tree) and kari (hunting). I visited three major temples today, and once you realize there is nothing you can do with the teems of … Read more
Momiji-gari at Eikando Zenrin-ji Temple
December 1, 2023 I would have loved to have taken photos of the structures and walkways of this temple. However, it was wall-to-wall people, and photos were almost impossible, with the exception of looking out over the rails. I had to go with the flow and simply enjoy the momiji-gari. Eikando belongs to the Jodo … Read more
Ginkakuji – the Silver Pavillion
December 1, 2023 Walking the Philosopher’s Path between Eikando Zenrin-ji Temple and The Silver Pavillion The Philosophers Path The Philosophers Path follows a canal which is lined by hundreds of cherry trees. It must be spectacular when the cherry blossoms bloom. It is one of the city’s most popular hanami (cherry blossom viewing) spots. It … Read more
The Art Island of Naoshima
November 2023 I have been on the art islands before and have written extensively about it. However, there are a few new installations that deserve to be written about. One of the more enjoyable is Narcissus Garden by Yayoi Kusama. This is part of a new area titled Valley Gallery, which encompasses another of my … Read more
Inujima Art Museum
November 26, 2023 Sometimes, you trip upon a magical space and relish in its uniqueness. I am at Nashima for the second time because I was unable to get to the island of Inujima on my previous trip. I am so glad I returned. It was worth it just to explore this amazing project. The … Read more
Art around the Island of Inujima
November 26, 2023 Inujima, while centered on the museum, also has a few scattered “art houses”. This is, after all, a Benesse Project. The three islands hold a Triennale with site-specific art that remains after the show is over. Art House F This piece is by Kohei Nawa. The architect was Kazuyo Sejima. The description … Read more
Reflections of Naoshima, Inujima and Teshima
November2023 I have been to Naoshima and Teshima before, and this visit was to explore Inujima. Here are some photos from all three islands that show their beauty and serenity. * * * * * * *
Tokyo Tower
November 19, 2023 This is not my first trip to Japan. It is one of my favorite countries to explore. However, this time, I am staying for seven weeks and concentrating on getting to know the country in a more relaxed and deeper way. That being said, there are always the typical things one must … Read more
Finding the Ancient Among the Modern
November 19, 2023 Zojoji was founded by the priest Yuyo Shoso in 1393 as the first Jodo Buddhist practice hall in the area. During the Edo period (1600-1868), it was the family temple of the Tokugawa shoguns, becoming the center of all Jodo Shu temples in Japan. At its peak, the temple grounds held more … Read more
Ueno Tokyo
November 2023 For my first week in Tokyo, I am staying in the Ueno district in Taito Ward. The biggest attraction is Ueno Park. Ueno is a working-class area that is beginning to become popular and is adjusting to a tourist clientele. There are two central portions of Ueno, the Park, and the Ameyoko area. … Read more
Ueno Park
November 2023 Ueno Park sits on land that once belonged to Kan’ei-ji, founded in 1625 in the unlucky direction to the northeast of Edo Castle. Most of the temple buildings were destroyed in the Battle of Ueno in 1868 during the Boshin War when the Tokugawa shogunate was defeated by those wanting to restore the … Read more
Wandering London – The Odd and Overlooked
November 2023 I am in London to enjoy the company of friends, see a few plays, eat some good food, and just enjoy the architecture and people of this wonderful city. I am staying right on the Thames at Broken Wharf, looking down on a spot where I went mudlarking last year. It affords me … Read more
Wandering London in the Pouring Rain
November 14, 2023 I began my day at Blackfriars Bridge. Blackfriars originated as a Dominican friary founded in the year 1278. The name Blackfriars comes from the color of the robes that the Dominicans wore. I had the best of intentions of wandering the Farringdon Neighborhood all day today. The rain began around noon and continued … Read more
Visiting London for Food and Fun
November 2023 I am leaving London with a heavy heart, despite the knowledge I will be back in a short seven months. This trip was to visit friends, dine out, and see a few plays. I managed to do a lot more, but here are the plays I saw and the places I dined, none … Read more
Isle of Wight
November 10, 2023 I traveled to the Isle of White via ferry, leaving out of Portsmouth to Ryde. Once you disembark from the ferry, you have a long walk to town on the Ryde Pier. Ryde Pier is an early 19th-century pier and is the world’s oldest seaside pleasure pier. The pier was designed by … Read more
Portsmouth, England
November 10, 2o23 Portsmouth’s history dates to the Roman times. It is said that Portsmouth was founded c. 1180 by Anglo-Norman merchant Jean de Gisors. The city is home to the first drydock ever built. It was constructed by Henry VII in 1496. Portsmouth has served as a significant Royal Navy dockyard and base for centuries. … Read more
The HMS Victory
Portsmouth, England November 9, 2023 The HMS Victory is undergoing a massive overhaul, so I was not able to see her as a whole ship from the outside. The inside, however, is an amazing walk through history. It is difficult to convey through pictures or even words, but the 2-3 hours I spent on The … Read more
The Mary Rose
Portsmouth UK November 9th, 2023 If you want to get an honest and complete look at what naval service and war were like in the 1600s, 1700s, and early 1800s, visit Portsmouth, England. The quality of education you receive while touring both the Mary Rose and the Victory is second to none. The Mary Rose … Read more
Coventry England
November 7, 2023 I am here to visit an old friend, James. While he lives in Wales, we have agreed to meet in Coventry so we can gather with other friends in the area. The town of Coventry was bombed rather heavily during WWII and then suffered from the classic concept of modernization, also known … Read more
Homewood Cemetery
October 2023 Homewood Cemetery was established in 1878 from William Wilkins’ 650-acre estate, called Homewood. This is the final resting grounds of the robber barons of the Pittsburgh Golden Age, as well as noted politicians, artists, sports figures, scientists, and others. Section 14 of the cemetery sits atop a hill and houses the largest plots … Read more
Fascinating Architecture of Pittsburgh, PA Part 2
October 2023 The Emmanuel Episcopal Church, completed in 1886, is by H. H. Richardson. Richardson did not live to see the church completed, and had he; there might have been a few changes. While the design is perfect, the slate roof is so heavy it has caused the walls to bow. It actually adds a … Read more
Fascinating Architecture of Pittsburgh Part 1
October 2023 Standing on the grass of Carnegie Mellon, you can see the University of Pittsburgh’s (Pitt) Cathedral of Learning. The 42-story Late Gothic Revival Cathedral is the tallest educational building in the Western Hemisphere and the second-tallest university building in the world. The entrance to the Margaret Morrison Building, which houses the School of … Read more
A Quick Introduction to Pittsburgh PA
October 2023 The Monongahela and the Allegheny meet and become the Ohio River. This is what defines Pittsburgh today and fueled its history and growth. The 40-year period from 1870 until 1910 marked Pittsburgh’s Golden Age. With the rivers for transportation and the Connellsville coal seam that runs through Pittsburgh, the business of glass and … Read more
Odds and Ends When Wandering Boston
May 2023 The Boston Common is a 50-acre public park in downtown Boston, a perfect place to spend a lovely sunny day. Central Burying Ground On one end of the Common is the Central Burying Ground. The cemetery was established in 1756 and is located on Boylston Street between Tremont Street and Charles Street. Famous … Read more
Wandering Boston’s Architecture
May 2023 Trinity Church and HH Richardson Our group has a tendency to drift toward H.H. Richardson buildings, and that is a good thing. Boston is full of Richardson projects. Henry Hobson Richardson (1838 – 1886) was an American architect best known for his work in a style that became known as Richardsonian Romanesque. Along … Read more
Gropius House, Massachusetts
May 2023 We spent the day in Concord area looking at several very interesting homes, all of which I will get to in another post. However, I am a fiend of architecture from the Bauhaus school, and to see the home of the master himself was such a joy. Walter Adolph Georg Gropius (May 1883 … Read more
The Peabody Essex Museum
May 2023 PEM is one of the oldest continuously operating museums in the United States and holds one of the major collections of Asian art in the US. Its total holdings include about 1.3 million pieces, as well as twenty-two historic buildings. It is worth a visit! The museum was remodeled by Safdie Architects … Read more
Gloucester, Massachusetts
May 2023 A day spent outside of Boston in Gloucester was a quick but interesting day. The Sleeper-McCann House – Beauport This home, designed by its owner, Henry Sleeper, beginnings date to 1907. Like many, he was never happy and altered and modified throughout his life. The home was originally built as a modest Arts … Read more
Nashville Union Station
March 2023 The Nashville Union Station and Trainshed were constructed in the 1890s as part of the Louisville and Nashville (L&N) Railroad’s construction program. Nashville Union Station was a major transfer station on the Louisville and Nashville, Chattanooga, and St. Louis lines. The station was designed by Richard Montfort, an engineer employed by the railroad. Montfort … Read more
Oman
January 2023 Oman’s Al Said Haitham bin Tariq Al Said replaced his uncle, Sultan Qaboos bin Said, upon his death in 2020. Qaboos was a much-loved Sultan. Using rents from the natural resources of Oman (petroleum, natural gas, and minerals), Qaboos modernized and transformed Oman, developing its infrastructure, healthcare, and educational systems, as well as various income-generating sectors, … Read more
Nizwa, Oman
January 2023 The Sultanate of Oman is the largest country in the world with a majority Ibadi Islamic population. Ibadhism formally established itself around 750 in what is now Oman, with its center in Nizwa. The Fort of Nizwa was built in the 1650s by Imam Sultan Bin Saif Al Ya’rubi, although its underlying … Read more
Khasab, Oman
December 2023 Khasab and the Musandam Peninsula Khasab is an exclave of Oman at the tip of the Musandam Peninsula, very near the Strait of Hormuz. It has been dubbed the “Norway of Arabia” because of its extensive fjord-like craggy inlets and desolate mountainscapes. Oman is very fractured geographically. This is where Khasab, on … Read more
Architecture of Abu Dhabi – Part 1
January 2023 Abu Dhabi is an Emirate in the United Arab Emirates. Abu Dhabi has 200 islands, and the country is developing the larger ones as, essentially, theme parks. There is a conservation island with an Arabian Wildlife Park, Zaya Nurai, a boutique island resort, Al Maryah Island for business and high-end shopping, Yas Island … Read more
The Architecture of Abu Dhabi Part 2
December 2023 As I mentioned in my last post, there is some excellent architecture in Abu Dhabi, and this post is going to concentrate on that. Designed by the firm Aedas, one tower is the headquarters of the Abu Dhabi Investment Council, an investment arm of the Government of Abu Dhabi. The other serves as … Read more
Fujairah, UAE
December 2023 This was finally a day of history. Fujairah is in the easternmost part of the UAE; the geography is one of craggy mountains often covered in greenery, interspersed with date palm-tree-filled oases. Fujairah received its highest rainfall in 27 years in July of 2022, causing flooding in many areas. This area is replete … Read more
Architecture of Dubai
January 2023 Dubai is one of the Emirates that makes up the United Arab Emirates (UAE). There are seven emirates, consisting of Abu Dhabi (the capital), Ajman, Dubai, Fujairah, Ras Al Khaimah, Sharjah, and Umm Al Quwain. One sees images of Dubai in mass media, and these glossy photos, highly photoshopped, look intriguing. My impression … Read more
Architecture of Doha, Qatar
January 2023 By now most people are familiar with Qatar thanks to the 2022 World Cup. The capital, fastest growing city, and financial hub, Doha, is a truly lovely city with sensible planning, buildings by some of the world’s greatest architects, campuses of some of the world’s greatest universities, and greenery everywhere. Historically, Doha, like … Read more
Playing God on Sir Bani Yas
January 2023 Sir Bani Yas is an example of what you can do when you have mountains of oil money at your disposal. The name Sir Bani Yas originates from the Bani Yas tribe, who first inhabited Abu Dhabi 7,000 years ago and left at least a century ago. The island is the crest of … Read more
Fun and Offbeat in London
December 2022 I took a Christmas-Food-themed walking tour put on by London Walks. When discussing Christmas geese, we were brought to this very interesting little spot in Leadenhall. In the 1800s, Old Tom, a gander from Ostend, Belgium, became a fixture in the market. Somehow Tom never made it to anyone’s dinner table and … Read more
Cemeteries of London
December 2022 I am an avowed taphophile, so visiting cemeteries is part of my travels wherever I go. I made an intentional trip to Highgate, tour and all, but the others were pleasant happenstances. Highgate An act of Parliament created The London Cemetery Company in 1836. Stephen Geary, an architect, and the company’s founder appointed … Read more
Wandering the Outskirts of London
December 2022 Eltham Palace Eltham Palace consists of the medieval great hall of a former royal residence, to which an Art Deco extension was added in the 1930s, described as a “masterpiece of modern design”. The original palace was given to Edward II in 1305 by the Bishop of Durham. It is said that is … Read more
Getting Around London
December 2022 Taxis With the advent of Uber and Lyft filling the world with cheap rides from underpaid drivers, the London Cabbie is still a wonder and should be used as often as possible while in London. One of the reasons is Knowledge. The Knowledge was introduced as a requirement for taxi drivers in 1865. There … Read more
Christmas Lights of London
December 2022 The Lights at Kew Gardens * * * * * *** * * * * * Christmas Around Town * * **
Greenwich, To and From and Everything In Between
December 2022 A trip from downtown London to Greenwich is about one hour. As the sun was shining and the temperatures have risen to the low 50s, a boat down the Thames seemed the most delightful way to get to Greenwich today. Of course, there are bridges across the Thames; in fact, there are more … Read more
Saint Bartholomew The Great
December 2022 We walked into this churchyard because we were looking for a plague pit, we found so much more. St. Bartholomew Church is very intriguing from the street, and one can’t help but want to walk through that arched doorway even if you didn’t know what lay behind it. The building was founded as … Read more
Camden
December 2022 I have taken a flat in London for the month. London, like most major cities in the world, has been visited, photographed, and Instagrammed to death. I will not be writing about the major attractions while here, but the odd and obscure. I am staying in the Camden Borough of London, it is … Read more
Connecting the Past with the Modern
December 2022 Roman Walls and the Tower of London Some kind of fortification most likely completely surrounded the Roman city of Londinium. The portions of the wall still remaining date from between CE 190 and 225. This section of the wall is built of rubble (mostly Kentish ragstone) bound in a hard mortar and faced … Read more
Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Margaret Macdonald
December 2022 Hill House When I was here just two months ago, I concentrated on the architecture of Alexander Thomson as I had too little time to discover the works of Glasgow’s most famous architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh. At the time, I knew I was coming back for three days of a whirlwind through Mackintosh. … Read more
Books, Books and Gas Holders
December 2022 This is just one small section of the books from King George III’s library. The display dominates the British Library and is just one of many reasons to visit the library. They have rotating exhibitions and a permanent area filled with treasures from the British Library, ranging from the Magna Carta to handwritten … Read more
Nicolinas Festivities
November 29th 2022 Saint Nicolinas We are here for the beginning of the festivities of Saint Nicolinas. The Nicolinas Celebrations have their origin in the 3rd and 4th centuries and were centered on people’s religious devotion to St. Nicholas, the protector of poor girls, persecuted, merchants, children, prisoners, the unfortunate, those abandoned by luck, and … Read more
Guimarães
November 2022 Guimarães was originally settled in the 9th century and called Vimaranes. It is thought the name may have had its origin in the warrior Vímara Peres, who chose this area as the main government seat for the County of Portugal which he conquered for the Kingdom of Galicia. Guimarães is often referred to … Read more
Minho Region Wine, Granite and Eucalyptus
November 2022 The dominant white grape varieties of this area are Alvarinho, Arinto (locally known as Pedernã), Avesso, Azal, Loureiro, and Trajadura, while the red varieties are Borraçal, Brancelho, Espadeiro, and Vinhão. The white wines are particularly refreshing, many of which, when tasting, were referred to as swimming pool wines. The region began producing sparkling … Read more
Driving the Backroads of the Vinho Verde Region of Portugal
November 2022 Peneda-Gerês National Park Soajo My traveling partner Susan and I picked up a dear friend Katherine who is accompanying us for the next few days. Our first stop after a lovely night in Fortaleza de Valença was the town of Soajo. While there are signs everywhere warning you of wandering cows, it … Read more
Wandering the Countryside of Guimarães
Citânia de Briteiros The Citânia de Briteiros archaeological site of the Castro Culture is one of the more excavated sites in the northwestern Iberian Peninsula. I first encountered excavations of the Castro Culture when walking the Camino de Santiago. I had no idea there were so many sites on the Iberian Peninsula of this particular … Read more
Valença Fortaleza – Portugal
November 2022 The Walled Portion of the City of Valença, Portugal Valença dates from Roman times. Inside the fortified walls, a Roman milestone marks the XLII (42nd) mile of an ancient Roman road that connected the town of Braga to Tui. i[berius] Claudius Caesar Aug[ustus] Germanicus Pontifex Max[imus]. Imp[erator] V Co[n]s[ul] III, Trib[unicia] Potest[ate] III. … Read more
Northern Portugal – Exploring Abandoned Monasteries
November 2022 This was a day of exploring the Minho Region, the oldest part of the country of Portugal. Originally settled by the barbarian Suevi, this early reconquered part of Portugal has the highest concentration of Romanesque churches in the country and some of the most significant historic sites in the Iberian Peninsula. There isn’t … Read more
Discovering Northern Portugal
November 2022 There are at least 42 aqueducts in Portugal. Fifteen were built for public water supply and 26 for private supply. The word aqueduct comes from the Latin “aqua” for water and “ducere” which means to lead. Even though aqueducts are very much associated with the roman empire this one was built much later. … Read more
Porto, Portugal – Literature and Wine
November 2022 This is my second trip to Porto and this trip is less about discovering the city and more about discovering the wine. I did not get to the famous bookstore, Livraria Lello, on my last visit, so I will begin there. You can now buy 5€ jump-the-line tickets with the money going towards … Read more
One Reason You Come to Parma – Parmigiano Reggiano
November 17, 2022 The City of Parma is lovely but you come to Parma for Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, and Aceto Balsamico. We spent one full day with Stefania of Cooking with Stefania, and I mean a whole day. We began in a Parmigiano Reggiano factory, proceeded to Stefania’s house to cook lunch, then … Read more
Two More Reasons to Visit Parma – Prosciutto di Parma and Balsimico
November 2022 I have already discussed the tour of Parmigiano Reggiano, but on the same day spent Cooking with Stefania we visited two more food production locations. Prosciutto di Parma It was in 100 BCE that Cato the “Censor” first mentioned the extraordinary flavor of the air-cured ham made around the town of Parma in … Read more
Parma
November 19, 2022 Parma is a university city and one of the largest cities in the Emilia-Romagna region, with a population just under 200,000. The city is of course famous for Parmesan cheese and Parma ham, and it is the first Italian city to become a UNESCO heritage site for Gastronomy. The city was founded … Read more
The Mura di Lucca and More
November 2022 The walls of Lucca (Mura di Lucca) are a series of stone, brick, and earthwork fortifications that are among the best-preserved Renaissance fortifications in Europe. The construction of the current walls of Lucca, which replaced earlier medieval and Roman fortifications, began on May 7, 1504, and ended a century and a half later … Read more
San Michele in Foro and San Martino – Lucca
November 2022 San Michele in Foro is a Roman Catholic basilica built over an ancient Roman forum, dedicated to Archangel Michael. The church is mentioned for the first time in 795 as ad foro (in the forum). The church was rebuilt in 1070 under the orders of Alexander Pope II. What takes one’s breath away before … Read more
Walking Around Lucca
November 2022 At one time Lucca had as many as 30,000 people living in its downtown behind the walls, once cars were banned that population dropped precipitously. It is growing back but is still nowhere near its original numbers. Lucca has always been a wealthy area, as has all of Florence. During the early 20s, … Read more
Bagni di Lucca
November, 2022 Bagni di Lucca is a respite and a divine little spot to unwind. The area has been known for its thermal springs since the Etruscan and Roman Times. It was first mentiond in an official document of 983 AD as “Corsena”, with reference to a donation by the Bishop Teudogrimo of the territory … Read more
An Introduction to Ravenna
November 2022 In 402 CE the reality of barbarian invasions compelled the Western Roman emperor Honorius to move his court from Rome to Ravenna. In 438 the city was raised to the status of an archbishopric. With the fall of the Western Empire in 476, it became the capital of the first barbarian ruler of … Read more
The Mosaics of Ravenna, Italy – Part 1
November 2022 Ravenna is a very quiet town at this time of year. There are very few people and almost no cars, making access to everything easy, and fairly clear of tourists. The main reason people come to Ravenna is the mosaics. And rightfully so, as they are worth a trip. However, the city holds … Read more
UNESCO Sites and the Mosaics of Ravenna, Italy Part 2
November 2022 Basilica di San Vitale Gustav Klimt visited Ravenna twice in 1903, after which began the period of his painting called “aureus”. Many speculate that he did so after seeing the gold of the mosaics in the Basilica di San Vitale. Yesterday I came here. It was … Read more
Dante and Ravenna
November 8, 2022 I am a lover of Dante. I have read Divina Commedia (The Divine Comedy) at a minimum, three times, which means I have only begun to read Dante. I spent lockdown walking in my living room and reading aloud, the best way to read Dante in my humble opinion. I will … Read more
The Art of the Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Vita in Bologna, Italy
November 2, 2022 Il Campianto sul Cristo Morto by Niccolò dell’Arca 1463 Inside the Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Vita are two spectacular works of art in terra cotta. First is the Il Campianto sul Cristo Morto (Lamentation Over Dead Christ) by Niccolò dell’Arca. This dramatic depiction of sorrow and death was commissioned by the … Read more
The Certosa of Bologna
November 2022 The Certosa di Bologna was a Carthusian monastery established in 1334. It expanded and flourished, and became an expansive complex with a series of internal courtyards, gardens, buildings for lodgings amidst chapels, and a larger church. In 1367 the encircling walls were built to make it an enclosed cloistered community. It became … Read more
The Esprit Nouveau – Corbusier in Bologna
November 2022 A 30-minute walk from Piazza Maggiore, sitting in an open field, is the Pavillon de l’Esprit Nouveau. Originally the project was a model home constructed for the 1925 International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris, designed by Swiss architects Le Corbusier and Pierre Jeanneret. The Pavillon was conceived as a … Read more
Bologna – Wandering At A Leisurely Pace
November 6, 2022 I went through Bologna in May of this year at a pace that would defy the speed of light. This trip, 4 full days, was spent seeing the city at any pace I wanted, drinking glasses of Pignoletto, and watching the world go by. No matter the slow pace, one eventually sees things … Read more
A Day in Cambridge
As a tourist, I must admit I prefer Cambridge over Oxford. Very simply because its entire downtown is pedestrian and it is not growing upwards so it still has a very comfortable spatial feel to it. However…bicycle usage is overwhelming, which under normal circumstances I would applaud, but I am afraid the youthful, unfettered cyclists … Read more
York in 5 Hours
October 30, 2022 The city of York gives its name to the County of Yorkshire. While the House of York was one of the two protagonists’ family clans in the Wars of the Roses, during the 15th century, it was primarily a Roman military encampment known as Eboracum. The keep of the medieval Norman castle … Read more
Galloping through Glasgow
October 28, 2023 Driving south to Glasgow The Glenfinnan Viaduct is a railway viaduct on the West Highland Line in Glenfinnan, Inverness-shire. It was built between 1897 and 1901 and overlooks the Glenfinnan Monument and the waters of Loch Shiel. The viaduct is built from mass concrete and has 21 semicircular spans of 50 feet. … Read more
The Highlands and Northern Hebrides of Scotland
October 25, 2022 Crossing the Forth of Firth The red bridge is the UNESCO World Heritage Site Forth Bridge. It was the first major steel construction in the UK at 1.5 miles in length and was the longest single cantilever bridge span in the world when opened in 1890; today it has the second longest span. … Read more
6 Times By Antony Gormley
October 2022 6 TIMES is a series of six sculptures created by Turner Prize-winning artist Antony Gormley (b. 1950). They were initially installed in 2010 and reinstalled in 2019. The sculptures are life-size cast iron sculptures of the artist’s own body. The works are placed across the city. They begin with the first at the … Read more
Scotland and The Royals
October 2022 Edinburgh Holyrood Castle Holyrood Palace (sometimes called Holyrood House) is the official residence of the British monarchy in Scotland. The palace has served as the principal royal residence in Scotland since the 16th century and is a setting for state occasions and official entertaining. Taking a tour of Holyrood is a walk through … Read more
Edinburgh
October 21, 2022 My first day in Edinburgh, Scotland Edinburgh Castle You can not miss the castle when in Edinburgh. Edinburgh Castle stands on Castle Rock, which has been occupied by humans since at least the Iron Age. The castle has served a royal purpose since the reign of David I in the 12th century … Read more
Edinburgh Continued
October 22, 2022 Today was rainy and foggy making picture-taking problematic. But there is so much to see in Edinburgh I couldn’t let a little weather deter me. Day 2: Edinburgh is notorious for its unsavory past and has been called the most haunted city in all of Europe. Add to that the dark stone … Read more
Chatsworth and Hadrian
October 20, 2022 Leaving Oxford on the way to Edinburgh is a lovely drive, sadly it was pouring rain. Two stops were required on this little strip of the road. Chatsworth House and Hadrian’s Wall. A third, was simply because it was convenient. Chatsworth House is lovely but with limited time I decided to spend … Read more
Walking Oxford, England – Random Architecture
October 17, 2022 The buildings of Oxford are well known if one watches British television, in particular Inspector Morse. It isn’t quite like on television because when you wander town there are actual people populating every square inch of the town, but the sense of history and the magnificent architecture isn’t lost on anyone despite, … Read more
Walking Oxford, England The Odd and Fun
October 17, 2022 I walked all day on the 17th and decided to break this into two posts, one architecture and the other all the other fun stuff I saw. Here goes with the Odd and Fun. Jane Burden was a major figure in the 19th-century Pre-Raphaelite art movement. She was the favorite model for Dante Gabriel Rossetti, … Read more
Colleges of Oxford
October 18, 2022 The University of Oxford has thirty-nine colleges and six permanent private religious halls. These institutions are autonomous self-governing corporations within the university. The colleges are not only student residences but have the responsibility of teaching undergraduate students. Most colleges take both graduates and undergraduates, but several are for graduates only. Behind the … Read more
Bath, England
October 15, 2023 There is a legend that Bath was founded in 860 BCE when Prince Bladud, the father of King Lear, caught leprosy. He was banned from the court and was forced to look after pigs in a faraway location. The pigs caught the skin disease from him, but when they went rooting for … Read more
The Crossing
Queen Mary 2 The Week of October 7 to 14, 2022 A crossing is simply that. Cross the Atlantic Ocean from New York City to Southampton, England, with no ‘cruise’ stops. Site while sitting in Port * * Getting Under Way Going under the Verazzano Narrows Bridge The longest suspension bridge in the United States, … Read more
Hudson Yards, The High Line and the 9/11 Memorial
October 6, 2022 If one begins the High Line at West 29th you start at Hudson Yards. While Hudson Yards if filled with many attractions, the reason I was there was to see the Vessel. The Vessel is a spiral staircase, designed as an interactive piece of art by Thomas Heatherwick of Heatherwick Studio. Sadly, after … Read more
Odds and Ends
June 2022 Kirkjugólfið Kirkjugólfið (the church floor) is a basalt column rock formation located in Kirkjubæjarklaustur. It was originally believed to be an old church floor but research showed there had never been any building there. The name is probably related to many of the other names in the area that have relation to Christianity … Read more
Icelandic Things of Interest
June 2022 Discovery Hrafna-Flóki Vilgerðarsson was the first Norseman to intentionally sail to Iceland. His story is documented in the Landnámabók manuscript; however, the precise year of his arrival is not clear. It is told that Hrafna-Flóki began his journey with three ravens. At some point he decided to use his ravens to find the … Read more
Westfjords
June 2022 Westfjords are the oldest part of Iceland. They originated during a series of volcanic eruptions which took place during the Tertiary Period, around 14 to 16 million years ago. After an ice age which ended about 10,000 years ago, the progression of the glacier carved deep valleys and fjords in the landscape leaving … Read more
Trolls, Dwarves, Sea Worms and Lore
June 2022 Öndvegissúlur, or high-seat pillars, were wooden poles placed on each side of the chair of the head of household in a Viking-period Scandinavian house. According to writings in Landnámabók and sagas, written after the settlement of Iceland, some of the first settlers brought high-seat pillars with them from Norway. Once the land was … Read more
Food of Iceland
June 2022 Many people told me that the food in Iceland was blah and uneventful, if not downright bad. I beg to differ. I NEVER take pictures of food, but I felt I needed to to show how lovely the food was. * I will let you make your own opinion, but even Stanley Tucci … Read more
Driving in Iceland
June 2022 Iceland roads are excellent until they are not. They are nicely paved, and the traffic is almost non-existent, but then you get to the western fjords. There a gravel road is not uncommon and should you want to explore things on the coast a very poor dirt road might be your only option. … Read more
Fire and Water, the Geography of Iceland
June 2022 Iceland is located on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge where the North America Plate and the Eurasia Plate drift apart. Essentially, due to the drift, the crust at the plate boundary is gradually stretched until it fails. Then magma rises to the surface to fill the gap. The drift is about 2 cm per year, … Read more
Northern Iceland
Northern Iceland is dominated by Fjords. Defined as narrow and long inlets surrounded by cliffs and steep sides, fjords are so varied in their topography and vegetation as to be gorgeous and yet indescribable. * They are mesmerizing but also frightening to drive at times. Farm houses dot the sparsely populated roads. Fjords form as … Read more
Iceland Farming
June 2022 Driving through Iceland, one comes upon these “furrows” that are regular and yet mysterious. They are created to dry fields mostly for hay-making and grazing. Excavators cut deep trenches into low-lying wetlands. Interestingly, some money from the Marshall Plan was originally used for this purpose. The trenches are connected to a brook or … Read more
Glaciers and Icebergs
June 2022 Skaftafellsjökull Or Skaftafell Glacier The glacier tongue Skaftafellsjökull sits in the nature reserve in Öræfi, Vatnajökull National Park. It is one of many tongues stretching out from the largest glacier in Europe, Vatnajökull. This ice cap covers eleven percent of the surface area of Iceland. Skaftafellsjökull is an excellent but concerning example of how … Read more
Skeiðarársandur A Sandur
June 2022 It is always interesting when ones preconceived notions are tossed to the wind and then brought back again. In the first two days of driving in Iceland, I was awestruck by the green hills, fertile valleys, and luscious hills. But this is not what I had expected. I had expected black sand, black … Read more
Turf Houses and Caves of Iceland
June 2022 Iceland is overwhelming on so many levels. Driving the Ring Road, which is essentially circumnavigating the island, every 5 miles is different, and I am frankly, overwhelmed. I needed to begin this blog somewhere because if I wait to process all that is coming at me I won’t be able to do so … Read more
Walking Reykjavik Part 1
June 2022 I fell in love with Reykjavik the moment I stepped out of my hotel. It is at a scale that is so very livable. Most of the streets are car free and those that are not are pedestrian, scooter and bike dominated so that the cars go so slow you wonder why they … Read more
Walking Reykjavik Part 2
June 2022 When I mentioned I was looking forward to spending time in Reykjavik to explore the architecture, most people expressed surprise. There is far more here than you can imagine. The architecture of Reykjavik needs a little history. From the landing of the Norwegian Vikings in CE 870 people resided in wooden longhouses protected … Read more
Fogo Island
June 2022 I saw a picture of the Fogo Island Inn in 2013 when it was completed, right then and there I knew I had to visit. It took a while but I finally had a chance to stay at the Inn. The most beautiful way to see the building is from the water, to … Read more
Tidbits Here and There of Newfoundland
June 2022 There are always things I see that don’t fit in a specific post, so here we go with some fun things. I love dogs, but I will admit I know very little about them, so the education I received when admiring these two was edifying. Nobody knows the origins of the Newfoundland. They … Read more
Cod and Port
June 2022 Cod is such a huge part of Newfoundland’s history, and some of it is tied up with Port wine from Portugal. After his voyage in 1497, John Cabot’s crew reported that “the sea there is full of fish that can be taken not only with nets but with fishing-baskets.” The Newmans of Dartmouth … Read more
Newfoundland Architecture
June 2022 Specific to Port Union Port Union was established in 1916. It is the only “union-built town” in North America. William Ford Coaker and the members of the Fishermen’s Protective Union (FPU) settled the town with the aim of developing a new type of commercial and economic footing for Newfoundland’s fishermen. The row … Read more
What Was I Thinking
May 2022 Sometimes you have to complete a journey to realize it might not have been the best idea. I decided to drive from Bay of Fundy to my final destination in Newfoundland. So far it has been an interesting experience. It began with a 7 hour ferry ride from Sydney Harbor, Nova Scotia to … Read more
Geology and Root Cellars
May 2022 A quick geography lesson before the geology lesson. This area is actually called Newfoundland Labrador. The island of Newfoundland is the easternmost region of Canada, while Labrador is located on the mainland to the northwest. This post is about the Newfoundland portion of the province. With John Cabot’s arrival the island has been … Read more
The Bay of Fundy
May 2022 This stop is for my late husband Michael. He loved to sail, and he had so much fascinating information in his brain it was hard to keep up. One day in passing he mentioned that the Bay of Fundy had the world’s largest tidal difference. I do not know if that was a … Read more
Looking at Munich’s History Through Art and Architecture
May 2022 Munich is Germany’s third largest city and has a population of over 1.5 million people. It is also a very densely packed city making architectural photography a real challenge. The city has a relatively short history, only first mentioned in the 12th century, however, it was an important power within the former Holy … Read more
Confronting the Past With Art and Architecture
Dealing with Difficult Times I often find it unsettling to be in Germany. The people are absolutely wonderful, and the beer is grand, but their history weighs heavy. That being said, I feel that the Germans are far better than many societies at confronting the horrors of the past and honoring those that suffered. World … Read more
Fun Findings of Munich
May 2022 The wealthy power couple Adolph and Apollonia Wolf were generous benefactors of the Munich art scene during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In the early 1900s, the Wolfs commissioned local sculptors Heinrich Düll and George Pezold to create a piece of public art that would memorialize the family name. This Art … Read more
Nymphenburg Palace
May 2022 The Nymphenburg Palace and Park served as the main summer residence for the former rulers of Bavaria of the House of Wittelsbach. Commissioned by the electoral couple Ferdinand Maria and Henriette Adelaide of Savoy, it was designed by Italian architect Agostino Barelli in 1664 following the birth of the electoral couple’s son Maximilian … Read more
Ulm, Germany
May 2022 The city of Ulm was founded in 850, it is a small city with a population of just 126,000, and is the home of Ulm University. In the wars following the French Revolution, the city was alternately occupied by French and Austrian forces, with the former ones destroying the city fortifications. There was … Read more
Vienne, France
May 2022 Vienne is a mere 18 minutes by train from Lyon and yet it is a million miles away. Vienne sits on the Rhône River where it eventually joins the Gère River, about 20 miles south of Lyon. In ancient times Vienne was the capital of the Celtic tribe known as the Allobroges. It was … Read more
Picture Postcard Perfect
May 2022 Annecy, France is one of those towns that simply stepped right off of a movie screen. It has an historic district that sits on a clear blue lake and hardly seems real. Annecy is billed as a city of Art and it does have a considerable amount of lovely public art, but I … Read more
Genova, Italy
May 2022 In all my many travels around Italy, I had never been to Genova. I wish I had more time to discover its secrets. I am on a whirlwind trip, not of my planning. I always say, one must return, I look forward to peeking behind the curtain some day in the future. … Read more
The World’s Fastest Day in Bologna
May 2022 This is a whirlwind trip via train through Europe. While I am accustomed to slow travel, I am traveling with a special friend for a special reason and I have put myself in her capable hands. This was an eight hour day in Bologna, a lifetime would not be enough. The lunch meat … Read more
Training it through Switzerland – Bern
May 2022 Bern, Switzerland Bern is the de facto capital of Switzerland, referred to as the “federal city”. It has a population 144,000 (as of 2020) and is the fifth-most populous city in Switzerland. And according to legend it got its name from the actual animal the bear. For that reason you will see … Read more
Bernini Train of Switzerland
May 2022 The Bernina Express or Red Train has been on my list for a while, thanks to my friend Bruce M. It is touted as the most beautiful train ride in the world. I have taken many a train ride, and I would not go so far as to say this is the most … Read more
Training It Through Switzerland – Lucerne and Zermatt
May 2022 Lucerne One of the most iconic sites of Lucerne is the Spreuer Bridge (Or Chapel Bridge). The original was erected around 1400 but destroyed by a storm and rebuilt in 1568. Under the roof of Spreuer Bridge, 67 paintings dating from 1626 to 1635 represent a “Dance of Death”. Death urges everybody to dance … Read more
Amsterdam
May 2022 During the 17th century and Amsterdam’s economic boom, the city created a concentric canal belt. Four ditches were dug around the Dam, connecting up the river Ij and Amstel. All to encourage water traffic and the rapid transport of goods throughout the city. The buildings were always a combination of residence and business, … Read more
More Wanderings in Amsterdam
May 2022 The De Waag was built in 1488 and served as one of Amsterdam’s main city gates. It closed at exactly 9:30 at night to keep out bandits, the poor and the diseased. By the 17th century the city had expanded making the gates superfluous. At that time the building became a weighing house. … Read more
Antwerp, Belgium
April 2022 I arrived in Antwerp at the Central Rail station. Originally built between 1895 and 1905, and first used in 1905 the station was designed by Louis Delacenserie, the station is also known as the Middenstatie (Middle station) or Spoorwegkathedraal (Railroad Cathedral). Built in a rather eclectic style the station was completely renovated and … Read more
Bruges, Belgium
April 2022 Bruges is known as Venice of the North and is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is an ancient and stunning city. Founded by the Vikings in the 9th century it is thought the name Bruges (Brugge) derives from the old-Scandinavian word ‘Brygga’ meaning ‘harbor’ or ‘mooring place’. Canals were … Read more
The Beauty of Costa Rica
January 2022 I have traveled from the coast to the rain forest over the last few days. The beauty of the land is why you come to see in Costa Rica, so enjoy. BIRDS I am not a birder so I will fail to name most of these, I apologize. Many that I saw were … Read more
The Panama Canal
January 2022 The French were not the first to think of building a canal through Panama, but they were the first to try. Their effort that began in 1880 ended in disaster and resulted in over 25,000 deaths. In 1902, once the French pulled out of the project, Teddy Roosevelt pushed the US to purchase … Read more
Guna Yala
January 2022 My first stop in Panama was the San Blas Islands. The accommodations were booked as a primitive over the water hut, which is exactly what they were. The huts are comfortable to sleep in, and delightful to just laze on the back deck. The walls do not reach the ceiling, so the gentle … Read more
Christmas Season in Paris
December 2021 Christmas in Paris is Magical. Lights are everywhere, stores, and neighborhoods get in the spirit, trees grace many windows and interesting decorations pop up here and there. There are Christmas Markets everywhere with the smells of Christmas and hot mulled wine and roasted chestnuts on most every corner. Enjoy! * * Festival Des … Read more
Odds and Ends of Paris
December 2021 There are always pictures you take, and places you go that never quite fit into the narrative you have chosen to tell on any given day. Here is a roundup of those things I want to recall but had no place to put them. What is with the French and their Mice? If … Read more
The 19th Arrondissement
December 2021 The 19th is crossed by two canals, the Canal Saint-Denis and the Canal de l’Ourcq, which meet near the Parc de la Villette. On the Canal de l’Ourcq, one will find a metal lift bridge, the Pont de Flandre, linking the Quai de l’Oise to the Quai de la Marne. Commissioned in 1885 … Read more
Art Underground
December 2021 I am all for walking in Paris, I love getting lost, I think that is what Paris is all about. If I need to get crosstown I prefer the bus, you can look out the windows and see the world. But…sometimes the Metro is the only way to get where you are going, … Read more
Parisian History in Bits and Bites
December 2021 The Panthéon Architect Jacques-Germain Soufflot designed the Pantheon to fulfill Louis XV’s wish to glorify the monarchy in the form of a church dedicated to Saint Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris. The church was to also house her relics. The building was placed in the center of the Place du Panthéon which … Read more
The Art World of Montparnasse
December 2021 While Montmartre was the center of the art world of the late 1800s, it moved to Montparnasse in the early 1900s. In the early 1900s Paris was the home of the avant-garde with the advent of Cubism, Surrealism and Dadaism – Picasso and Matisse, Chagall, Giacometti, Miró and Calder, Man Ray and Foujita … Read more
Random Outdoor and Street Art of Paris
December 2021 It is rather ludicrous to write about art in Paris since the city is filled with art on every street corner, every building and every park. There is also great street art if you look around. There really are too many to even begin to consider writing about, but here are a few … Read more
Making Historic Connections
November 2021 It is difficult to write about Paris, as the city and its sites are so famous, but there are always little unknowns. Take for example the guillotine, Lafayette and the US Revolutionary War. The guillotine is a well known instrument of death. Physician Joseph-Ignace Guillotin did not invent the machine, he simply suggested … Read more
Religion, Science and Madness
November 2021 Notre Dame du Travail The exterior of Notre Dame du Travail looks like any church in any town built in this time period, but it was the interior that brought me here. The parish that served this area was originally known as Notre Dame de l’Assomption de Plaisance. When the quartier became part … Read more
Tübingen, Germany
December 2021 I am in Tübingen to visit an old friend. What a delightful little diversion to my hectic schedule. The town is around four hours from Paris on the TGV. It is the quintessential fairy tale town with castle and all. Tübingen first appears in official records in 1191. And the Hohentübingen Castle, has … Read more
Bilbao, Spain
November 2021 Bilbao, or Euskaltzaindia in Basque, was founded in the year 1300 by the Carta Puebla. In 1511, when the trade and shipping office or Consulado was created, it became an important city of trade, at the end of the nineteenth century, it was transformed into an industrial city. As a the capital of the … Read more
San Sebastián, Spain
November 2021 Donostia – San Sebastián San Sebastián or Donostia in the Basque language is located in the Basque Autonomous Community of Spain on the Bay of Biscay. This area is a culinary heaven. In the world, San Sebastián is only surpassed by Tokyo in the number of Michelin star restaurants. However, consuming pintxos (pinchos) … Read more
Port Wine and The Duoro Valley
The writings of the Greek geographer Strabo, show that people of the Iberian Peninsula were drinking wine over two thousand years ago. The Romans, arrived in Portugal in the second century BCE and made wine on the banks of the Douro River for hundreds of years. Wine in this region has been around for a … Read more
Thoughts on Porto
November 2021 Porto is like a really comfortable sweater, you slip it on as though you have known it for years. Porto is an easy town to navigate and fall in love with. It is not necessarily a town you come to see the sights, you come to stroll, eat, shop and hang out with … Read more
Bridges of Porto and a Bit More
November 2021 The Arrabida Bridge was designed by Edgar Cardoso (1913-2000), said to have been the best bridge engineer of Portugal. When it opened in 1963 it had the longest arch in the world for a concrete bridge. Don Luis I was built in 1886. It connects the city of Porto to Vila Nova de … Read more
Porto, Portugal
November 2021 My friend Susan and I met up in Porto. It is a town where I slowed down, and we just wandered aimlessly. Church of São Francisco One visits this Gothic church for two things its over the top Baroque inner decoration and its catacombs. It has an 8 euro entry fee, with no photos … Read more
Bom Jesus de Braga
November 2021 This stairway is why you come to Bom Jesus in Braga, Portugal. The first indication of a chapel on this hill dates from 1373. The chapel at the top of the hill today, dedicated to the Holy Cross, was built in the 15th and 16th centuries. It took over 600 years to complete … Read more
Coimbra, Portugal
November 2021 Coimbra is a lovely town, and like every University town, it is multifaceted. The university was first established in Lisbon in 1290, it went through a number of relocations until moving permanently to Coimbra in 1537 by the order of King John III. The University was expanded in 1544 by occupying the Coimbra Royal … Read more
Convent of Christ in Tomar, Portugal
November 2021 Convent of Christ Tomar, Portugal To put the Convent in simplistic terms it was originally a 12th-century Knights of the Templar stronghold, which people now call castle. The order was dissolved, and this is where it gets complicated. In the 1400s, the convent was turned over to the Knights of the Order of … Read more
Driving North in Portugal – Alcobaça and Batalha
November 2021 Alcobaça The Alcobaça Monastery is one of the first buildings to be associated with the Cistercian Order in Portugal. It was founded in 1153 as a gift from the first Portuguese king, Afonso I (1112–1185) following the king’s conquest of the city of Santarém from the Moors in 1147. Construction on the monastery … Read more
Driving South to North in Portugal – Évora
Halloween – 2021 I am driving from the south of Portugal to Porto attempting to hit as many UNESCO World Heritage sites as possible. My first stop, Évora. The entire town is walled and a UNESCO site. It is also the perfect town for Halloween if you enjoy the macabre. For such a tiny town, … Read more
Lisbon: History, Art, Water and So Much More
October 2021 I have been wandering around Lisbon flummoxed. I am staying at a very nice hotel in the Braixa area, but directly across the street are old lovely buildings that appear to be, not only neglected, but abandoned. One can travel around the world and never get questions answered but thanks to an … Read more
Gardens of Lisbon
October 2021 Calouste Gulbenkian Museum Born in Istanbul of Armenian parentage, Calouste Sarkis Gulbenkian (1869–1955) built a huge fortune through oil. He was not an oil baron but a negotiator between companies, and was known as the 5% man, for taking 5% off the top of all his contracts. He amassed an art collection which he … Read more
Sintra and Sensual Overload
October 2021 If you arrive by train, this is the ticket booth. The town becomes magical with the azulejos, upon arrival. The first building you encounter after embarking from the train is the Town Hall. The fairytale continues. May I begin with a complaint? Sintra is one of the most discussed, lauded, and praised … Read more
Eclectic Collection of Art and Architecture in Lisbon
October 2021 Comércio Square This is the Rua Augusta Arch because it is found at the end of the street that bears that same name. The arch faces Comércio Square. Designed by Portuguese architect Santos de Carvalho to celebrate the reconstruction of Lisbon after the 1755 earthquake. It was not completed until 1873. The … Read more
Azulejos
October 2021 Azulejos were originally Moorish, then Spanish, and later a Portuguese art form. These tiles have been produced since the 14th century. At first, the term was used to denote only North African mosaics, but it became the accepted word for an entirely decorated tile about 5 to 6 inches square. Azulejo comes from the Arabic … Read more
Wandering Belem and Parts of Alfama
October 2021 Lisbon sits on a Bay fed by the Tagus River and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean. For this reason, much occurs on the waterfront of Lisbon. Belém Tower, officially known as the Tower of Saint Vincent, is a 16th-century fortification. The tower served as a point of embarkation and disembarkation for Portuguese explorers … Read more
Walking the Chiado, Baixa, Avenida and Bairro Alto of Lisbon
October 2021 One of the first things you read of Lisbon is about the 1755 Earthquake. It was All Saints Day and the churches were packed to the rafters. The earthquake was followed by a fire, and then a tsunami, killing an estimated 15,000 people in Lisbon alone. The religious overtones regarding the disaster were … Read more
Fascinating Things You See Wandering Barcelona
October 2021 Las Ramblas This sweet little statue is in the very small Placa de Vincenc Martorell just off Las Ramblas. The square has a children’s playground, which is probably the purpose of the statue, but in the same square you will find this. The hole you see in the wall was once part of the House … Read more
Let Heaven and Nature Sing
October 2021 Palau de la Musica Catalana The Palau de la Musica Catalana, a stunning example of Catalan Art Nouveau, opened in 1908. It was designed by architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner. The ticket booth alone should be a clue as to what an amazing spectacle you are in for. All the sculptures on one … Read more
Heavenly Spaces on Opposite Sides of Barcelona
October 2021 Montserrat Montserrat ( basically serrated mountain) is a mountain range about ½ hour drive outside of Barcelona. On top of the mountain is a Benedictine Monastery, Santa Maria de Montserrat, that gets a lot of wahoos in tourist magazines. When I returned to Barcelona I was not sure why I had gone. It is … Read more
The Lesser Advertised Gaudi
October 2021 Casa Vicens Casa Vicens was designed as a summer home, so looking at the airflow, windows, and screens is a part of understanding the design. In 1883, Manel Vicens i Montaner, a stock and currency broker hired Gaudi to design this summer garden home in what was, at the time, the former village … Read more
Gaudi’s Casa Battló, Casa Mila and Casa Calvet
October 2021 Casa Battló When Antoni Gaudi graduated from Architecture school Elies Rogent, the Director of Barcelona Architecture School, apparently said: “We have given this academic title either to a fool or a genius. Time will show.” When walking the streets of Barcelona there is almost no other architectural style that overwhelms you as much … Read more
La Sagrada Familia and Parc Guell
October 2021 What do you say about any Gaudi building in Barcelona? They have been photographed, published, visited, and shown on TV, ad nauseam. But what would be posts about Barcelona without Gaudi. Let us begin with his two most well known projects. La Sagrada Familia – Basilica of the Holy Family To begin with, … Read more
A Plethora of Art and Architecture around Barcelona
October 2021 Joan Miro Park This large sculpture by Joan Miro draws you to the Joan Miro park. There is a research library within the park, as well as just stunning areas to sit and relax, and playgrounds for children. This sculpture, Woman and Bird, is typical of Miro’s work and was constructed in 1983, … Read more
Barcelona’s Art Nouveau
October 2021 Upon my first arrival to Barcelona I was instantly struck by two things. It would take more time than I could ever allot to see this city the way I would want to, and there is so much more to it than Gaudi. I spent a good part of my day just wandering, … Read more
One last walk through Paris
September 2021 Today I spent the rainy morning at the L’Arc de Triomphe Wrapped, but the afternoon was spent walking more of this glorious city. The day began with a downpour that lasted quite a while, but eventually the skies cleared, Paris unfolded, and the day truly began. Did you know that Paris has 120 … Read more
L’Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped
September 2021 Christo and partner Jeanne-Claude Denat de Guillebon’s latest project, L’Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped, came to fruition a year after Christo’s death, 12 years after Jeanne-Claude’s death, and 60 years after it was first imagined. Christo and Jeanne-Claude’s nephew Vladimir Yavachev, who had worked with the couple on various art projects, made L’Arc de … Read more
Walking and Walking and Walking Paris
September 2021 Covid is keeping me from doing many activities indoors in Paris, but there is still so much to see and do. First Arrondissement 18 Rue de Louvre The Duluc Detective Agency is the oldest private detective agency in France. It is still family run, the current head, Madame Duluc, inherited the agency from … Read more
Staying Outdoors in Paris
September 2021 Covid is still running rampant around the world and the Delta variant is making life even more difficult, so right now, when visiting anywhere it is safest to do so by planning as much as possible out of doors. Here is a little bit of fun around Paris. Tunnel du Pont de l’Alma … Read more
The Society Islands of French Polynesia
August 2021 French Polynesia is a self-governing “overseas collectivity” of France that consists of five island groups – the 15 Marquesas Islands, the 14 Society Islands, the 78 islands of the Tuamotu Archipelago, the 14 Gambier Islands, and the 7 Austral Islands – scattered over nearly one million square miles of the South Pacific. The … Read more
Hot Springs, Arkansas
April 2021 Hot Springs, Arkansas, has a very rich history. It gets its name from the natural thermal spring waters that flow out of the ground at an average temperature of 143 °F, producing almost one million gallons of water each day. Water flowing from the springs today fell as rain when Egyptians were building … Read more
Eureka Springs Arkansas
April 2021 Eureka Springs is an unusual town. Its architecture is primarily Victorian, and with its narrow streets and historic trains, it is a fun place to explore. Despite its charm it is filled, primarily, with tacky tourists shops. * Most everything was closed due to COVID so a walk around town was enough, we … Read more
Public Art in St. Louis
April 2021 Saint Louis is an amazing city for art! City Garden Between Chestnut and Market Streets and 8th and 10th Streets is City Garden. Founded by the Gateway Foundation the park consists of a cafe, stunning landscape, a fountain or two and a modern art collection that made this public art enthusiast sing. The … Read more
Finding the Offbeat in Saint Louis
April 2021 The Union Station Hotel in St. Louis Now a National Historic Landmark the St. Louis Union Station was opened in 1894. At its opening it was the largest in the world with tracks and passenger service areas all on one level. Traffic peaked at 100,000 people a day the 1940s. The last Amtrak … Read more
Gateway Arch
April 2021 I have wanted to see the Gateway Arch in Saint Louis ever since I stood in the Saarinan house at Cranbrook. The arch was designed by Eero Saarinan, son of the great architect Elliel Saarinan, and a rather phenomenal architect in his own right. The Arch sits along the west bank of the … Read more
One Day in Kentucky
April 2021 The trip to Kentucky was to visit Mammoth Caves National Park. The park has limited their tours due to COVID, and while we were prepared to be disappointed, we were not. The morning began with a trip to the cemetery, a must for this tophophile. It is the best way to also understand … Read more
Wandering Around North Carolina
April 2021 Fontana Dam, North Carolina The Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA) was a paragraph in my 6th grade history book. The TVA is a federally owned corporation created by congressional charter on May 18, 1933, to provide navigation, flood control, electricity generation, fertilizer manufacturing, and economic development to the Tennessee Valley, a region particularly affected … Read more
Meandering Through Four Southern States
April 2021 Luray Caves, Virginia Visitors have been coming to Luray Caves since its discovery in 1878. The cavern system is filled to the brim with speleothems such as columns, mud flows, stalactites, stalagmites, flowstone, and mirrored pools. The caverns are perhaps best known for the Great Stalacpipe Organ, made from solenoid-fired strikers that tap … Read more
Congaree National Park
April 2021 Congaree National Park – South Carolina Congaree National Park is a 26,276-acre national park 18 miles southeast of the state capital, Columbia. The park preserves the largest tract of old growth bottomland hardwood forest left in the United States. The trees growing in its floodplain forest are some of the tallest in the … Read more
The Odd and Unusual in the Environs of Charlotte
April 2021 Shell Oil Clam Shell Station This is the last Shell Oil clamshell station in the United States. A local Shell gasoline marketer, had eight similar stations built in the 1930s by R.H. Burton and his son, Ralph. The buildings were constructed of bent green wood, wire and concrete stucco. The station had a … Read more
The Left Side of Nowhere
November 23, 2020 The drive home promised to be a long one so we broke it up with the weird and wonderful. Today was a day to remain curious and open-minded. London Bridge and Parker Dam Lake Havasu, AZ A bridge has spanned the River Thames in London for more than 2000 years. The “Old” London … Read more
The Grand Canyon’s South Rim
November 22, 2020 Today was dedicated to exploring the South Rim of the Grand Canyon with a special emphasis on architecture. Our first adventure was to the sites of Mary Colter. Colter began working full-time for the Fred Harvey Company in 1910. She moved from interior designer to architect and for 38 years served as … Read more
Driving the North Rim to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon
November 21.2020 After leaving our hotel outside the North Rim of the Grand Canyon we headed for the South Rim. We had to go the long way through Flagstaff because the East Road goes through Navajo Country and they have closed access due to the alarming numbers of COVID cases on their lands. While driving … Read more
The Grand Canyon
November 20, 2020 We left Zion National Park via the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel. Bored and blasted through the sandstone cliffs above Pine Canyon this amazing engineering feat blows the mind. Construction of the 1.1-mile tunnel began in the late 1920s and was completed in 1930 at a cost of $1, 896,000. At the time of its … Read more
Zion National Park
November 18, 2020 We are staying at Zion Lodge, so after a quick breakfast, we headed out to do the trails closest to the lodge, The Kayenta Trail with stop-offs at the three Emerald Pools. It is fall, so the colors are spectacular. The Cottonwoods turning their fall yellow is breathtaking. The elevation at Zion … Read more
The Hoodoo That You Do
November 17, 2020 Hoodoos of Bryce Canyon Weathering and erosion play only a minor role in the development of hoodoos. These are formed more by the freeze/thaw process than anything else. As the water flows into cracks and re-freezes, it expands and cracks the rock around it, this is called frost-wedging, and that is how, … Read more
Entrenched Meanders
November 16, 2020 Arches to Bryce via a lot of fascinating places. We stayed at Red Cliffs Lodge and woke to this in the morning outside our room. We doubled back to Arches National Park to see the Delicate Arch, which we had run out of time the day before to visit. It is the … Read more
Gee Gee Gee It Is Geology
November 15, 2020 Today began with a drive from Palisades, Colorado to Arches National Monument in Utah. We took the 139 which is all part of the Dinosaur laden area of Colorado. When one drives for miles without seeing another car you either become fascinated with the geology, or you turn on rock and roll … Read more
Dinosaurs
November 14, 2020 – Day 4 Today was spent searching dinosaurs and geology. We began at Dinosaur National Monument. The park contains over 800 paleontological sites and has fossils of dinosaurs including Allosaurus, Deinonychus, Abydosaurus, and various sauropods. As the ranger so poetically put it, when the University Paleontology departments come to dig, it … Read more
The South West During Covid
November 2020 I am traveling during COVID, just to get a break. I am traveling with my cousin and we are staying in well-researched hotels, and eating a lot of picnics. We also chose to do many out of the way locations to help avoid as much humanity as possible during this scourge. Day 1, … Read more
Casablanca
January 5, 2020 El Jadida A one and one-half hour train ride from Casablanca is El Jadida. Within the city of El Jadida is the small town of Mazagan, founded in 1506. Considered one of the Severn Wonders of Portuguese Origin in the World, Mazagan was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004, … Read more
Moving Medinas Into the Future
December 2019 Morocco has six Medina’s on the World Heritage List, and I started to wonder why. Was it to protect them from Urban Renewal, or was it something else? This brought up a question for me which no matter how many people I asked, or articles I read, I still did not really get … Read more
The Characters of the Medina
December 2019 Gnawa Dancers These dancers can be seen in most every Medina in Morocco. They are simply creating a form of Gnawa music for the tourists and, as you can see, with hopes you will throw money in their hats. UNESCO added Morocco’s traditional Gnawa to the list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of … Read more
Wandering the Desert outside of Marrakech
January 2, 2020 Palmeraie If you drive into Marrakech, you will most likely pass Palmeraie (palm grove). It is a palm oasis of several hundred thousand trees situated at the edge of the city’s northern section, it is 5 miles long and easy to spot. Palmeraie was created during the Almoravid period, using a khettara … Read more
Anima
January 1, 2020 Anima is the creation of Andre Heller, an Austrian with a fascinating background. It is a stunningly designed garden in the middle of the desert ornamented with sculpture. It is a delight, but frustrating, as there is not one word about who the artists are, and there is no pamphlet handed out, … Read more
The Jardin Majorelle
December 31, 2019 The Majorelle Garden was designed by the French artist, Jacques Majorelle (1886-1962). In 1917 Majorelle was sent to Morocco to convalesce from a serious medical condition, and after spending a short time in Casablanca, he traveled to Marrakech fell in love with the vibrant colors and street life and stayed. In 1923, … Read more
Marrakech, Medina
December 30, 2019 There comes a time in a country when you realize that much of what you are seeing is the same. The historic sites in the Medina of Marrakech is that time for me. Much of the more sought after tourist spots are under renovation, and those that were open were so similar … Read more
Meknes, Morocco
December 26, 2019 Meknes was first settled in the 9th century by the Miknasa a southern Tunisian Berber tribe. In the 11th century, the Almoravids further developed Meknes as a military settlement. They built mosques, hammams and kasbahs, one royal palace and a madrassa. The city was captured by several dynasties but eventually became a … Read more
The New Medina – Fes el-Jadid
December 22, 2019 The Fes el-Jadid is the new part of the Fes Medina founded by the Marinids in 1276 as an extension of the older section, Fes el Bali . Here are some of the highlights of the area. The original gate, Bab Semmarine, that marked the entrance to Fes el-Jadid was destroyed and then … Read more
Fes, Morocco
December 19, 2019 Fes (Fez) overwhelms when you are 10 miles out. There are over 1.4 million people living in this, the second-largest city of Morocco. The city consists of two old medina quarters, Fes el Bali (old) (808CE) and Fes Jdid (new)(1276CE), Ville Nouvelle constructed during the French colonial era and then the sprawling … Read more
A day trip out of Fes
December 20, 2019 Volubilis Volubilis was founded by the Berber people in the 3rd century BCE and was part of Mauretania. Mauretania is the Latin name for a region in ancient Northwest Africa. It stretched from central present-day Algeria westwards to the Atlantic and included northern Morocco. After the fall of Carthage, the kingdom of … Read more
The Blue City
December 18, 2019 Chefchaouen This is by far the most tourist town I have seen in Morocco. There are more tourists and tourist groups in this small town than I have seen in all of my travels in Morocco put together. Yes, it is off-season, but if there are this many tourists in Chefchaouen at … Read more
The Labors of Hercules
December 16, 2019 Cave of Hercules The cave is part natural and part man-made. The man-made part was used by Berber people to cut stone wheels from the walls, to make millstones, thus expanding it considerably. It was believed that the cave is one end of a subterranean ley tunnel over 15 miles long which … Read more
Tangier: A city with a fascinating history
December 14, 2019 Tangier (French Tanger, Spanish Tánger, Arabic Ṭanjah) has an interesting connection with the United States. Morocco was the first country to recognize the USA as an independent state after the revolutionary war and since Tangier served as Morocco’s diplomatic headquarters the United States dedicated its first consulate here during the George Washington administration. … Read more
Rabat, Morocco
December 13, 2019 Day 2 in Rabat was spent finding a few more UNESCO World Heritage sites and exploring a little history. Chellah Chellah is a walled ruin of a town that was designated a World Heritage Site in 2012, it houses both Roman ruins and a medieval Muslim necropolis. Abandoned in 1154 and damaged … Read more
Rabat, Morocco
December 12, 2019 Rabat is the capital of Morocco and yet it is not really high on the tourism trail. The major purpose of my visit is that much of the city is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The World Heritage sites included in this post are The Hassan Tower and Mosque, The Tomb of … Read more
My Personal Thoughts on Tunisia
December 10, 2019 There are many types of travelers and many types of travel, Tunisia requires a unique traveler for the unique things it has to offer. According to Garrett Nagle in his book Advanced Geography, Tunisia’s tourism industry “benefits from its Mediterranean location and its tradition of low-cost package holidays from Western Europe.” This … Read more
Sousse, Tunisia
December 8, 9 and 10, 2019 Sitting on the Gulf of Hammamet, Sousse looks out on the Mediterranean, albeit, through its very large working port, and it is enclosed on the landward side by miles of olive groves. Sousse was an important commercial and military port during the Aghlabid period (800–909) and is a typical … Read more
Kairouan
December 7, 2019 I am in Kairouan because the entire town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The number one attraction in Kairouan is the Great Mosque, recognized as the third most significant religious site in Islam because it is the first mosque, in the first Muslim town, outside of the then known Arab world. … Read more
Agricultural Staples of Tunisia
December 6, 2019 One can not drive through the middle of Tunisia without becoming aware of the fact that olive trees go on as far as the eye can see, only punctuated by Prickly Pear, a few citrus and pomegranate. No one really knows when the olive tree arrived in Tunisia. It is thought that … Read more
El Jem and Sbeitla, Tunisia
December 5, 2019 The Amphitheater of El Jem This Unesco World Heritage-listed amphitheater in El Jem (Thysdrus in ancient times) was the second-largest in the Roman world with three tiers of seating estimated to handle up to 35,000 people, considerably more than the population of the town itself. Built around 238 CE, the amphitheater is … Read more
Farming in the Deserts of Southern Tunisia
December 4, 2019 The south of Tunisia is characterized by an arid climate where rainfall does not exceed 2 to 7 inches per year. There are no significant water sources other than rain. People have struggled for centuries against water shortage, by building wells where possible, but mainly through an ingenious system that makes use … Read more
The South of Tunisia
December 3, 2019 The far south of Tunisia is sparsely populated and spreads out as a dessert landscape dotted here and there with oases, be it man-made or natural. In the middle-ages travelers avoided this area due to the lawless and ruthless tribes. Even the French in their conquering gave this area a wide berth. … Read more
Historic Sites of Northern Tunisia Part 2
December 1, 2019 The Medina in Tunis The Tourbet el Bey is a Tunisian royal mausoleum in the southwest of the medina of Tunis at rue Tourbet el Bey 62. It is the last resting place of most of the Husainid dynasty rulers of Tunisia. The building was constructed in the reign of Ali II … Read more
Historic Sites of Northern Tunisia Part 1
November 29, 2019 Dougga (or Thugga) was a Punic, Numidian and then Roman settlement outside of Tunis by about 2 1/2 hours. The current archaeological site covers 160 acres. UNESCO qualified Dougga as a World Heritage Site in 1997, believing that it represents “the best-preserved Roman small town in North Africa”. The site, which lies … Read more
The Bardo Museum of Tunis
November 27, 2019 The Bardo National Museum is said to be one of the most important museums in the Mediterranean and the second on the African continent after the Egyptian Museum. The museum houses one of the largest collections of Roman mosaics in the world, from archaeological sites around the country including Carthage, Hadrumetum, … Read more
Carthage and some R&R in Sidi Bou Saïd
November 18, 2019 Carthage is not at all what this author expected. It is far larger than one can comprehend, and yet the ruins lay scattered amongst a vibrant, very wealthy part of Tunisia. Most people are introduced to Carthage through books 1 through 4 of Virgil’s Aeneid and this alone was my greatest reason … Read more
Wandering the Medina and New Town in Tunisia
November 26, 2019 Tunis is a very approachable town. It has a sense of ordered chaos about it. The streets are packed with cars that find signals and laws inconsequential, but as a pedestrian, you feel safe, and oddly in control, as the traffic moves so slowly. The sidewalks and streets are filled with pedestrians … Read more
Odds and Ends of Sicily
November 23, 2019 The Ear of Dionysus When the painter Michelangelo da Caravaggio, fled from Malta, he sought refuge in Syracuse and was welcomed by fellow painter Mario Minniti. During this time, 1608, Caravaggio visited the latomìe (quarries) and apparently he named this cave the Ear of Dionysus. It refers, not to the Greek … Read more
Mount Etna
November 22, 2019 A private tour with Davide, guide extraordinaire of Mount Etna Tours, was one of the most fascinating ways to spend a day in this extraordinary place. Mount Etna is a stratovolcano. Stratovolcanoes are also called composite volcanoes because they are built of layers of alternating lava flow, ash, and blocks of unmelted … Read more
Caravaggio in Sicily
Caravaggio left Malta and was on the run for the second time in his life. He found his way to Sicily, most likely in a circuitous route to evade those that were pursuing him. He finally stopped in Syracuse and spent time with his friend Mario Minniti. When Caravaggio arrived relationships between religious authorities and … Read more
Wandering the West of Sicily
November 20, 2019 Hilltowns of Val di Noto In 1693 an earthquake struck parts of southern Italy near Sicily, Calabria, and Malta with an estimated magnitude of 7.4 It destroyed at least 70 towns and cities, seriously affecting an area of 2,200 sq miles and causing the death of about 60,000 people. The earthquake was … Read more
Villa Romana of Casale
November 19, 2019 The ancient Roman Villa of Casale in the town of Piazza Armerina The visible remains of the villa were constructed in the first quarter of the 4th century CE on the remains of an older villa rustica. The owner’s identity has long been discussed with no discernible answer. In late antiquity, the … Read more
Exploring the Northwest of Sicily
November 18, 2019 Erice Eryx (associated with the Greek hero of the same name) as it was first called, has been recorded in history as a town of little or no importance and renown. And yet it is said to have attracted the likes of Hercules and Aeneas. Thucydides (500 B.C.), writing about events connected … Read more
Segesta and Selinunte. Two Cities, Two Enemies, War
February 18, 2019 The colonization of Sicily in the 8th century BCE pretty much kept the Greeks to the East and the Carthaginians. to the West, but by the 7th century BCE, the Greeks began to expand. The Elymian, and inhabitants of Segesta were a local tribe who traced their origins to Troy. They traded … Read more
Arab Norman Palermo – Monreale
November 16, 2019 After the occupation of Palermo by the Arabs in 831 the Arabs transformed the Cathedral of Palermo into a mosque and banished the Bishop of Palermo. The Bishop was forced to move his seat outside the capital so he chose a small village in the hills overlooking Palermo, today Monreale. Around 250 … Read more
Wandering Palermo With No Particular Place to Go
November 13, 2019 Folk Arts Puppets became popular in Sicily during the fifteenth century, and marionettes are still considered an important part of Sicilian folk culture. Sicilian puppet theatre (opera dei pupi) or, more properly, “marionette theatre,” developed into its present form in the eighteenth century. The marionettes themselves are made of wood and cloth … Read more
Wandering the Historical Sites of Palermo
November 14, 2019 The Church of Saint Catherine of Alexandria St. Catherine’s of Alexandria has a bakery that is worth finding for one’s first stop in the morning. The church is a synthesis of Sicilian Baroque, Rococo, and Renaissance styles. In 1310 the last will of the rich Benvenuta Mastrangelo created the foundation of a female … Read more
Arab-Norman Palermo
November 13, 2019 The Arabs influenced the island is in its cuisine, its dialect, its tastes and, its architecture. It was a singular movement that encompassed three diverse styles under the architectural umbrella of the Romanesque: Norman, Arab, Byzantine. And it is not a question of a single monument but several. Norman-Arab was a unique … Read more
Timeline of Sicily’s History
The layers of history in Sicily are complicated at best. Like most every country in the world that has ever been “conquered” the architecture, art, language, and culture learn, adapt and integrate, but to understand the layers one must have a grasp of the historic timeline. 20,000-750 BCE Pre Greek History Paleolithic Neolithic – … Read more
Capuchin Catacombs of Palermo
November 12, 2019 The Capuchin Catacombs are a dichotomy. Everywhere there are signs that the place is a holy area and should be respected, therefore no photographs. And yet, it is a macabre tourist attraction that belies any form of respect. The ridiculous thing about no photographs is that they are all over the internet, … Read more
Malta’s Neolithic Sites
November 2019 The historic timeline of Malta differed little from any other Neolithic society around the Mediterranean. That is, until 3500BCE. The sophisticated architecture of the structures from this period predates all other world cultures in the building of free-standing buildings in stone by almost 1000 years. The megalithic temples of Malta have been dated … Read more
Southern Malta
November 9, 2019 Mosta, Malta The Rotunda of Mosta is built in the neoclassical style, and its structure is based on the Pantheon in Rome. The church was designed by Giorgio Grognet de Vassè. Grognet was of French descent but was a Maltese born architect-engineer and antiquarian with a prolific knowledge of the classics. Much of … Read more
Protecting Malta
Valetta, Malta November 8, 2019 Protecting Valetta A harbor tour is the best way to understand the massive undertaking humanity has done to protect the strategic islands of Malta. Malta sits almost dead center in the Mediterranean Sea, making it a strategic point of interest, no matter what era you want to look at in … Read more
Caravaggio and Malta
November 8, 2019 Caravaggio is a painter with a range that stupefies. These innocent paintings, while filled with sexual inuendos, are what many expected of the Italian painters of his time, and yet, his brilliance really showed in his ability to capture the macabre and make … Read more
Saint Johns Co-Cathedral
Valetta, Malta November 8, 2019 Recognized as one of the most incredible examples of the high baroque style, Saint Johns Co-Cathedral defies explanation. The exterior is so plain as to be mistaken for any other building in the neighborhood, and then you step inside. St John’s was commissioned in 1572 and built by the Knights … Read more
Malta and the Knights of Saint John
November 7, 2019 The Maltese Islands went through a golden Neolithic period. Later the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians, the Romans, and the Byzantines, all left their traces on the Islands. In 60 A.D. St. Paul was shipwrecked on the island while on his way to Rome and brought Christianity to Malta. The Arabs conquered the islands … Read more
Byrdcliffe
Woodstock, New York Byrdcliffe was founded in 1902 near Woodstock, New York by the husband and wife team of Jane Byrd McCall and Ralph Radcliffe Whitehead along with colleagues, Bolton Brown (artist) and Hervey White (writer). It is the oldest operating Arts and Crafts Colony in America. Byrdcliffe was created as an experiment in utopian … Read more
Lake Mohonk Mountain House
New Paltz, New York The ten-room inn, Stokes Tavern and surrounding acreage on Lake Mohonk were purchased by Albert Smiley kicking off the beginning of what today is Mohonk Mountain House Retreat. The ten-room inn was renovated and expanded, and the Mountain House underwent a gradual change into the Victorian edifice that stands today. The … Read more
Artists Colonies of the East Hudson Valley
Artist Cemetery Woodstock, New York The Woodstock Artists Cemetery is officially operated by the Woodstock Memorial Society, the original 80 ft. by 100 ft. plot of land was purchased by John Kingsbury following the tragic death of his son. Additional land was purchased and the Woodstock Memorial Society was incorporated on November 4, 1934. In … Read more
A Smattering of Public Art in Philadelphia
Grumman Greenhouse Lenfest Plaza This crashed and artfully crumpled full-size airplane is titled “Grumman Greenhouse,”. The creation of 27-year-old Jordan Griska was installed in 2011. The plane is a U.S. Navy Grumman Tracker S-2E, built in 1962. It flew from aircraft carriers. Mothballed in the 1980s, it had a second career helping to fight forest … Read more
A Whirlwind Trip of Architecture in Philadelphia Day 2
Philadelphia, PA University of Pennsylvania College Hall College Hall is the oldest building on campus. Designed by Thomas Webb Richards the building was completed in 1873. The exterior, upper walls of green serpentine stone (which gives it the green color) are articulated with courses of brownstone and “Ohio stone” arches and cornices, all on a … Read more
A Whirlwind Trip of Architecture in Philadelphia Day 1
Philadelphia, PA City Hall Tomes have been written about Philadelphia’s city hall, and I have visited and photographed this building on more than one occasion, but this trip was a tad different. Our guide, Michael J. Lewis, the Faison-Pierson-Stoddard Professor of Art at Williams College, and a leading architectural historian, gave insights to the building’s … Read more
A Weekend in Vancouver
Vancouver British Columbia This Giant W stands at the location of the now partially demolished historic Woodward’s Building in the Downtown Eastside of Vancouver. The original portion of the building was constructed in 1903 for the Woodward’s Department Store when that area of Cordova Street was the heart of Vancouver’s retail shopping district. The building … Read more
Jordan in Black and White
Shot on a Leica Monochrome, I do not use photoshop, so these are straight out of the camera. *
Starting in Amman, Jordan
Jordan January 7, 2019 I came to Jordan with no knowledge about the country other than what I learned from the news growing up. I knew they had an extremely handsome king, King Hussein, who died in 1999. He was married to a Jordanian American, Lisa Najeeb Halaby now Queen Noor. Jordan was in the … Read more
Outside of Amman, Jordan
One hour outside of Amman January 8, 2019 Today I visited the Ajlun Castle and Ancient Jerash. The one hour drive to this area was very eye opening. The entire drive goes through the hills, some high enough to have a dusting of snow. The foliage is very reminiscent of California, with miles and miles … Read more
Mosaics
Jordan January 9, 2019 I am crazy about mosaic floors from the ancient times, so much so that I have a mosaic floor in my home. Today I got to see one of the oldest in the world. The history of mosaic goes back some 4,000 years, with the use of terracotta cones pushed point-first … Read more
Wadi Rum
January 11, 2019 Wadi Rum Wadi Rum, Arabic for Valley of the Light, is a valley cut into the sandstone and granite rock in southern Jordan. In trying to find something to describe the incredible geology of this area I found this description from National Geographic: ‘Visiting Wadi Rum is a voyage through the geological … Read more
Two Seas – One Red and One Dead
January 12 and 13, 2019 The Red Sea One can not come this far and not see the two seas. I mentioned in my first post about Jordan, that the country has so much more than Petra, and vacationing on the Red Sea is one of them. It is a destination tourist town with the … Read more
Egypt in Black and White
Egypt December 2018/January 2019 Shooting black and white always gives me, not only a different point of view but makes the hectic pace of places I visit slow down ever so much. These photos were shot with that Leica Monochrome, and have not been edited in any way.
Alexandria, Egypt
Alexandria, Egypt January 4 and 5, 2019 Alexandria was a nice break from almost two steady weeks of Ancient Egyptian history, it comes with history galore, but most of it during Roman times. Alexandria is a port city located on the Mediterranean Sea in northern Egypt founded in 331 BCE by Alexander the Great. After … Read more
Churches and Cemeteries
January 4, 2019 Wadi el Natrun The name Wadi El Natrun refers to eight different lakes in the region that produce natron salt. Natron was used during mummification ceremonies in ancient Egypt because it absorbs water and behaves as a drying agent. When exposed to moisture, the carbonate in natron increases pH (raises alkalinity), which … Read more
Luxor and Karnak Temples
Luxor January 2, 2019 Cult temples Karnak and Luxor are linked in history and love. You can not do one without the other. The Opet Festival was an ancient Egyptian festival in the second month of the lunar calendar. In the celebration of Opet, the god Amon, Mut, his consort, and Khons, their son, made … Read more
Dendera and Abydos
Egypt January 1, 2019 The whole complex of Dendera covers about 10 acres and is surrounded by a mud brick wall. Dendera was a site for shrines from the beginning of the history of ancient Egypt. It is thought that pharaoh Pepi I (c. 2250 BCE) built on this site and evidence exists of a … Read more
Workers, Nobles, Queens and Boats
December 31, 2018 Deir el-Medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is an ancient Egyptian village which was home to the artisans who worked on the tombs in the Valley of the Kings during the 18th to 20th dynasties of the New Kingdom of Egypt (ca. 1550–1080 BCE). The settlement’s ancient name was Set maat “The … Read more
Outside Luxor
Tomb of Hatshepsut January 30, 2018 The Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, also known as the Djeser-Djeseru is dedicated to Amun and Hatshepsut and is situated next to the mortuary temple of Mentuhotep II, which served both as an inspiration and later, a quarry. It is considered one of the “incomparable monuments of ancient Egypt.” Hatshepsut … Read more
The Valley of the Kings
December 30 2018 If I were to do this trip over I would begin in Luxor. This is the seat of all that Egypt embodies in its ancient history, and starting here might have helped me put the dynasties into a more comprehensive order. While understanding the exact order of history is not completely necessary since … Read more
Edfu Temple
Edfu December 29, 2018 The Temple of Edfu is located on the west bank of the Nile in Upper Egypt. It is one of the best-preserved shrines in Egypt. The temple was built in the Ptolemaic Kingdom between 237 and 57 BCE, of sandstone. The inscriptions on its walls have a wealth of information on … Read more
Egypt in Snippets – Part 1
December 2018 What can one say about Egypt that National Geographic has not done better? However, I want to write about my adventures because I want to remember them. For that reason, this post will be photos and captions and very little more. Cairo – December 23, 24, 25 and 26 Of course, I did … Read more
A Quick Vacation in Fort Kochi
December 2018 Fort Kochi in the State of Kerala Known as Cochin to the locals. Kochi was a fishing village in the Kingdom of Kochi in the pre-colonial Kerala. The territory, later called Fort Kochi was granted to the Portuguese in 1503 by the Rajah of Kochi. The Rajah also gave them permission to build … Read more
Madhubani Paintings of Patna
These Madhubani paintings are going up all over Patna, Bihar. The project is aimed at beautifying the walls in the hopes that people don’t spit or urinate out in the open, on the walls. “Vulnerable points have been selected for the painting. However, work will continue on most of the walls. ” according to Patna Municipal … Read more
Samadhi of Bodhgaya
December 2, 2018 Bodhgaya is one of the holiest sites in Buddhism. This is where Buddha found enlightenment under the Bodhi tree. The tree is the center of the Mahabodhi Temple, which is a UNESCO world heritage site. While it is said that over 30 million people visit the state of Bihar, and therefore, most … Read more
Barabar Caves
December 8, 2018 The Barabar Hill Caves are the oldest surviving rock-cut caves in India, and date from the Maurya Empire (322–185 BCE), some have inscriptions from the Ashokan era. During this period rock-cut architecture had become the key feature of Indian architecture. Barabar Hill contains four caves: Karan Chaupar, Lomas Rishi, Sudama and Visvakarma. … Read more
Lesser known and out of the way Buddhist sites.
November 21 and 22, 2018 Kasaria Kesaria is a Buddhist stupa first constructed around the 3rd century BCE. The stupa has a circumference of almost 400 feet making it the largest stupa in the world, it then rises to a height of about 104 feet. The stupa was not discovered until 1958 during an excavation … Read more
A New Buddha
Rajgir November 24 and 25, 2018 Ghora Katora Lake is a small, serene spot near Rajgir. The name Rajgir came from Rājagṛiha ‘house of the king’ or “royal house”. Rajgir had been the capital of the Magadh kingdom until the 5th century BCE. It is said that the lake had been used for watering the horses … Read more
The Robes of a Bhikkhu and Bhikkhuni
November 2018 The robes of Buddhist monks and nuns are part of a tradition that goes back to the time of the historical Buddha. The first monks wore robes patched together from rags, as did many mendicant holy men in India at the time. As the wandering community of disciples grew, the Buddha found that … Read more
The Black Buddha
Nalanda/Rajgir November 2018 In the Black Buddha Temple is an ancient large black Buddha in the Dhamma Chakra Mudra position. The Dhamma Chakra Mudra is also called the Wheel of Law depicting Buddha’s first sermon after his enlightenment This huge stone image from the Gupta period was lost to Buddhism, in the interim the Hindi’s worshiped it, … Read more
Two Protests, Toilets and Tuk Tuks
Vaishali, India November 18-20 2018 I am in Vaishali as part of the 2nd Annual Tipitaka Chanting Ceremony. If you are interested in that you can read about last years ceremony here. This is another adventure. Today I came across two protests. The first was about rural water and politics. The protesters were very polite, … Read more
Lumbini, Nepal – Part 2
November 14-18 2018 I am here as part of the 1st Tipitaka Chanting Ceremony ever held within the Maya Devi Temple Complex in Lumbini. As with any historic moment, there is the usual fanfare. A parade with beautiful women carrying flowers and banners. The flower-laden throne carrying the Tipitaka. And streams of participants Then there is … Read more
Lumbini, Nepal – Part 1
November 14 to 16, 2018 Crossing the border into Nepal was an adventure. The drive from Kushinagar was a little over 4 hours. The fun part about traveling in the third world is what you encounter on the way. This time it was a train stop. I have experienced many of these, but never close … Read more
Following Buddha, Xuanzang and Fa-hsien
District of Kapilavastu Outside of Lumbini, Nepal November 15, 2018 Today I had the absolute pleasure of being taken around the countryside of Lumbini by Bikram Pandey. The gentleman calls himself a Tourism Pro-activist. He is a consummate lover and promoter of Buddhism and the historic Buddhist sites of the Lumbini Area. These sites are … Read more
Wanderers of India and the Governor of Bihar
February 8, 2018 Leaving the city of Sankissa we passed these travelers. I do not know where they were going or where they came from but I found them fascinating and wanted to share these pictures. India has a gypsy population called Kalbelias, or Cobra Gypsies. While they are primarily in Rajasthan, and I am … Read more
Some History of Sankissa
Sankissa (also Sankasya) November 6, 2018 I have mentioned earlier that we are traveling with Deepak Anand, a knowledgeable person about Xuanzang, and his travels in India. Thanks to Deepak we took a walk through the village of Sankissa. Here is some information from his website: “Raghav Dixit shared with me how his uncle Shri … Read more
Tea at Home
Sankasya (or Sankissa) November 5, 2018 One of our monks from the Mahabodhi Center in Bangalore is from Sankasya and his family invited us for tea. This is a major undertaking for a family, and it was truly an honor. We have 40 monks, and then another 7 of us that accompany the monks. We … Read more
Happy Diwali
Lucknow November 7, 2018 Diwali means “row of lamps”. It is traditionally thought of as a Hindu festival, but it is also celebrated by Sikhs, Jains and Newar Buddhists. It is a festival of lights, celebrated every autumn in the northern hemisphere (spring in the southern hemisphere), It is thought to have originated as a … Read more
Rambling in Delhi
November 2, 2018 Today we had an afternoon to do some sightseeing, and thanks to the abominable traffic in Delhi we were only able to squeeze in two sites. Our first stop was an Ashokan edict found in Delhi in 1966. I have written extensively about Ashoka in this blog, but a good overview can … Read more
Three Religions – One Site
November 1, 2018 This is known as Lat Bhairav. According to our resident scholar Deepak Anand: “Chinese monk-scholar Xuanzang (Hsüan-tsang, 7th CE) mentions about the presence of an Aśokan stūpa and pillar on the west side of River Barnā (now Varṇā) on the way from Vārānasī to the Deer Park (Sārnātha). Vincent Smith (1848-1920) has … Read more
The Search for an Authentic Candy Shop
Rasvanti Sweets CK 21/24 Sugga Gali, Thatheri Bazar, Govindpura, Varanasi October 31, 2018 The Indians love their sweets, and this tucked away shop is as authentic as it gets. Deep into the alleyways of Varanasi, winding past motorcycles, then bikes and cows, and then to alleys too narrow for any but a person on foot, one … Read more
Banaras and The Ganga
Banaras/Varanasi October 30, 2018 What is India was one of the real reasons maps of India did not exist for a very long time. The borders are fluid making India a malleable country. I find that, just like the borders, the many adjectives I use to describe India are always changing. I often say it is … Read more
Plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose
Sarnath October 28, 2018 By: Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr The more things change the more they stay the same. I have arrived back in India for the second Dhammayatra and while it all feels the same it does feel different. The first moment I was knocked off my spin was on the plane from Toronto to … Read more
County Sligo
October 9, 2018 You know you are in for an adventure when the guide to the house meets you at the road and tells you how you are about to see the ugliest house in Ireland. It has more to do with a penny-pinching rich man and an excellent architect not agreeing on a budget. … Read more
Saint Patricks of Armagh City
October 8, 2018 Armagh is the site of two cathedrals, both on hills and both named after Saint Patrick. Considered the spiritual Capital of Ireland for 1500 years it is the seat of both Church of Ireland and Catholic archbishops. The Metropolitan Cathedral of St Patrick, (Church of Ireland) sits on the hill in the … Read more
The Ridiculous and The Sublime
October 8, 2018 John Leslie (later to become Sir John Leslie, 1st Baronet of Glaslough) had studied art in Rome and was an excellent pre-Raphaelite painter. He built the castle. Designed by the architect W.H. Lynn. It is described as grimly earnest Scottish Baronial castle, part dream-chateau and part Belfast City bank. It is … Read more
County Armagh
October 7, 2018 THE ARGORY The Argory got its name from the Irish ‘ard garraidhe’, meaning hill of the garden. It was built between 1819 and 1824 by Walter McGeough, who assumed the additional name of Bond in honor of the family of his deceased grandmother. McGeough’s decision to build the house was a result … Read more
Clandeboye House and more of Belfast
October 6, 2018 There are no photos allowed inside of Clandeboye, but take it from me, it is a museum. There is a video of the home, and it is used for many photo shoots, so you might catch a glimpse here and there if you know what you are looking for. Clandeboye was first … Read more
Ballywalter Park
October 5, 2018 This Victorian Italianate Palazzo was built by the present owner’s great great great grandfather. Ballywalter Park was originally built in 1828 and consisted of 1100 acres. In 1847 Mulholland hired architect Sir Charles Lanyon, to add to the home. Much of the original home remained. The entrance was changed from south to … Read more
Mount Stewart House in Ards Peninsular
October 5, 2018 Mount Stewart was created by the Stewart family (later Vane-Tempest-Stewart), holders of the title Marquess of Londonderry since 1816. Alexander Stewart (1699–1781), bought the estate in 1744 with money from the linen trade. At the time, the house was known as Mount Pleasant. Alexander Stewart’s son, Robert Stewart, became the first Marquess … Read more
Wandering Belfast
October 4, 2018 The name Belfast is derived from the Irish Béal Feirsde, which was later spelled Béal Feirste. The word béal means “mouth” or “rivermouth” while feirsde/feirste is the genitive singular of fearsaid and refers to a sandbar or tidal ford across a river’s mouth. BELFAST CITY HALL In 1888 Queen Victoria granted Belfast the … Read more
Hillsborough, Northern Ireland
October 3, 2018 Hillsborough Castle is a beautiful late Georgian mansion built in the 1770s by Wills Hill, first Marquis of Downshire it was later remodeled in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Today, it is a working royal palace functioning as the official residence of the Royal Family when they are in Northern Ireland, … Read more
Grandview
7351 Route WI-39 Hollandale, Wisconsin This lovely and imaginative spot well in the countryside of Wisconsin is the creation of Nick Engelbert. In 1937, after his children were grown, Nick Engelbert began to build an elaborate arched porch of concrete around the front entrance of his farmhouse, ultimately covering every inch of the outside surface … Read more
A. D. German Warehouse
300 South Church Street Richland Center, Wisconsin The Albert Dell German Warehouse was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in the Mayan Revival style, between 1917 and 1921. While there is some controversy, it is believed that Wright was born in Richland Center, making this his only building in his birth town. The building is a … Read more
Wisconsin Historical Society
816 State Street University of Wisconsin, Madison Campus The building that houses the Wisconsin Historical Society (officially the State Historical Society of Wisconsin) is an excellent example of the classicism that followed the 1893 Columbian Exposition in Chicago The organization is simultaneously a state agency and a private membership organization. Founded in 1846 and chartered … Read more
The State Capitol of Madison, Wisconsin
There is more information on the State Capitol of Madison than many I have seen. So I will just be touching on the art and architecture, rather than the history, of this magnificent building. It is important to point out that the people take very seriously that this is the building of the people, so … Read more
The Jacobs I House
Madison, Wisconsin 441 Toepfer Avenue Traveling with the VSA we had the true pleasure of touring the home of James Dennis, who graciously opened his home and took time to answer all of the questions we could possibly throw at him. The home is the first of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Usonian homes and was originally … Read more
The Unitarian Meeting House
Madison, Wisconsin Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and completed in 1951, when Wright was 84 years old, this church is recognized as one of the world’s most innovative examples of church architecture and one of Wright’s more influential buildings. Despite being one of the more stunning buildings in Madison it was almost not to be. … Read more
Taliesin East
Spring Green, Wisconsin So very much has been written about Taliesin that it seems silly to write a post about it, but it has been on my list of architectural sights to see ever since my father took me to Taliesin West when I was 10. Taliesin was named in honor of FLW’s Welsh heritage, … Read more
Wyoming Valley School
Spring Green, Wisconsin Built in 1957, the building was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, who donated his design and 2 acres of land to the Wyoming School District in honor of his mother, Anna Lloyd-Jones Wright. It is the only public school ever designed by Wright. The story goes that the school had land close … Read more
Wanamaker, An Organ, and An Eagle
1300 Market Street Philadelphia, PA Designed by renowned organ architect and Scotsman, George Ashdown Audsley, and built by the Los Angeles Art Organ Company for the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair, the Wanamaker Organ originally incorporated more than 10,000 pipes. The cost of construction ($105,000) actually bankrupted the builder. Fortunately, the Organ found a new … Read more
A Victorian Art Gallery
Laurel Hills Cemetery 3822 Ridge Avenue Philadelphia, PA Laural Hills Cemetery was founded in 1836 by a group of local businessmen headed by John Jay Smith, a Quaker and librarian. The founding concepts were that it had to be situated in a picturesque location well outside the city; that it had no religious affiliation; and … Read more
Haunting and Beautiful
Mount Mariah Cemetery 6201 Kingsessing Avenue Philadelphia, PA Mount Mariah has a fascinating and tragic history, most of which can be found at the website Friends of Mount Mariah Cemetery. Incorporated in 1855, this approximately 200-acre cemetery was established during the time of “Rural Ideal” cemeteries, a style of cemetery that utilizes landscaping to provide … Read more
Asheville, North Carolina
Asheville is a fast-growing city with a large influx of people looking for an affordable place to live with a great climate and stunning surroundings. It is famously home to the Biltmore Estate and Grove Park Inn, both of which have amazing histories that are very well documented. I wanted to concentrate this post on … Read more
The Hotel New Otani Garden of Tokyo
January 2018 Most large, high-end, hotels place a Japanese restaurant near some form of Japanese Garden, the Hotel New Otani goes one step further. In the middle of Downtown Tokyo, this stunning garden is free to anyone that desires to walk around. The garden was first part of the estate of samurai lord Kato Kiyomasa … Read more
The Art Houses of Naoshima
January 2018 The Art House Project was a large leap into the lives of the locals of Naoshima Island. There are many articles out about how the local people were not sure about the entire Benesse project, and how through the years they have learned more and more about contemporary art, and have learned to … Read more
An Art and Architecture Heaven on Earth – Benesse Art Site
January 2018 Benesse – To Live Well The biggest employer on Naoshima is a Mitsubishi metals processing plant, but due to automation, and therefore, downsizing, the population of the island dropped from around 8,000 in the 1950s and 1960s to a little over 3,000 now. The island has been “saved” by art thanks to Benesse Holdings, … Read more
New Years in Japan
Like many countries, New Years preparations begin before the actual day. There is a very large Shinto Shrine, also called the Hokkaido Shrine Jingu at Marayuma Park in Sapporo. The snow conditions made a trip there difficult, so I visited the local version closer to town, near the Nijo Fish Market. It was a few days … Read more
The Island of Teshima and Art
December 2017 Teshima is a rural island in the Seto Inland Sea that, with the nearby islands of Naoshima and Inujima has become a destination for contemporary art. The island also serves as one of the venues of the Setouchi Triennale art festival that is held in the region. The main attraction is the Teshima … Read more
Teshima Art Museum: an Indescribable Experience
December 30, 2017 Teshima is a small island in the Inland Sea of Japan. It had suffered economically until the Benesse Group, founded on the island of Naoshima, started turning the surrounding islands into art and architecture havens. I began this adventure on the island of Tashima, and in particular with the Tashima Art Gallery, … Read more
The Older Architecture of Sapporo
December 2017 Getting around Hokkaido in the winter is not the easiest of tasks, so this trip is limited to Sapporo. There are lots of fun things to keep one busy if you dress warm and have patience. After enjoying the Sapporo TV Tower and the lights in Odori Park, or the Snow Festival if … Read more
Things to do in Sapporo
December 2017 Sapporo is a very walkable city, and what you will notice is the lack of automobiles, most likely due to its incredible train system, subway system, and underground walkways. Sapporo is logically organized thanks to its grid system. The main thoroughfare, Ō-Dōri, meaning “Big Street”, runs east to west across the city and … Read more
Otaru on the Sea of Japan
December 2017 Otaru is a lovely little town situated on Ishikari Bay of the Sea of Japan. It was an Ainu (native peoples of Hokkaido) settlement, and the name “Otaru” is recognized as being of Ainu origin, possibly meaning “River running through the sandy beach”. Otaru was recognized as a village by the bakufu (The … Read more
Sapporo Beer Garden and Museum – Sapporo, Japan
Christmas Day – 2017 The Sapporo Beer Museum and Bier Garten are a fun way to spend an afternoon. The factory was built in 1890 as the Sapporo sugar factory and used as the beer malting plant until 1963. It was turned into the museum and beer garden in 1966. Registered as one of the … Read more
Christmas Eve in Sapporo, Japan
December 24, 2017 It is Christmas in Japan, and Sapporo does it big. Today we spent the day walking the German Christmas Fair, and yes, all the gifts and food are German. You go for the lights and the people watching unless of course, you want to take home German gifts from Japan. The market … Read more
Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri and Udayagiri, The Diamond Triangle
December 2017 Over the course of the three days at our last stop, I was able to indulge my passion for archaeology. We visited Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri, and Udayagiri, all within a few kilometers of each other. These three complexes are known as the “Diamond Triangle”. Lalitgiri (also known as Naltigiri) is one of the oldest … Read more
Exploring Rajgir
December 2017 All of India is an Archaeology site, so picking and choosing what you want to explore can be difficult when there is such a plethora of sites no matter where you are. I chose to visit the Son Bandhar caves, which sit at the end of the Jethian Valley Walk as you enter … Read more
Gijjhakuta – Vultures Peak
December 2017 We have begun our second Dhammayatra at Vultures Peak. This time we are traveling with monks from the Mahayana tradition. Vulture’s Peak may be the second “holiest” place of Buddhism, after the Mahabodhi Temple in Bodhgaya because this is the place where the Buddha spent so much time on retreat, in meditation, and … Read more
The Jethian Valley – Walking in Buddha’s Footsteps
December 2017 December 13th we walked The Buddha Walk. First organized in 2014 by several Buddhist organizations it is intended to revive and spread the history of Jethian-Rajgir valley. Before the walk, everyone from the very small village of Jethian gathers to distribute food to monks in observance of Sanghadana, an ancient tradition that stems … Read more
Finding Ancient History in Bodhgaya
December 2017 Wandering the town of Bodhgaya I could spot this old building peaking above the normal height of many of the other buildings, but it took walking down a dirt alley to actually get to it. It took me some research to find that it was called the Math, which is a word I … Read more
A Parade and a lot of Speeches
December 2017 The 13th Annual Tipitaka Chanting Ceremony in Bodhgaya began on December 2nd this year. The first morning starts with a loud, decoration filled walk from the host temple, this year it was the Royal Thai Temple, to the Kalichakra. The lead is a horse drawn carriage loaded with the Tipitaka chanting scripts. Before … Read more
Decorating the Mahabodi Temple of Bodhgaya
December 2017 Where does one start to explain the monumental project that putting on the 13th Annual Tipitaka Chanting Festival even is. Thailand was the host country this year and so therefore, the main organizers. There was a phenomenal group of people that came, just to decorate the site. The afternoon of the opening ceremony … Read more
Working in Bodhgaya
November 28, 2017 We arrived in Bodh Gaya on November 21st. The time has been spent preparing for the 13-day Tipitaka Chanting ceremony held at the Mahabodhi Temple Complex, beginning on December 2nd. I will admit that 95% of my time has been spent in the loud and uncomfortable lobby of our hotel, as wifi … Read more
Vaishali, India
November 2017 Vaishali is on the pilgrimage route for Buddhists for many reasons, but the two most important are that Vishali received part of Buddha’s remains and therefore there was a stupa here. The other important reason is the fact that Buddha’s stepmother was the first Buddhist nun, and she was granted that right in … Read more
A Birthday Party
November 2017 This is the highest ranking Buddhist in the town of Kushinigar, he is Burmese and he was celebrating his 82nd birthday. After cutting his cake he fed the honored people surrounding him, it was really sweet, and yes, I was also honored with a bite of cake by his hand. The closing ceremony … Read more
Sitting in the Back of the Tent
November 2017 Today was spent chanting all day. This is my view of the event. Those that know me, know I could not possibly sit on the floor, so yes, they take old people into consideration, even in the temples. I usually find a chair, this event I have an entire bench in which to … Read more
A Parade in Kushinigar
November 2017 Kushinigar is a pilgrimage site because this is where Buddha took his last breath. Our first day in Kushinigar was amazing. It began with a parade. Granted it was a parade of Buddhists, but the town is only a few blocks long with just one street so the whole town participated in its … Read more
A Relaxed Day
November 2017 Today was a down day so I thought I would catch up on a few odds and ends. First, our crew. They are really amazing, I have no idea who is who, I am ashamed that I haven’t really attempted to get to know them, they speak no English whatsoever, but we are … Read more
Sravasti Day 2
November 2017 Today began at Jetavana. We were accompanied by His Holiness the Drikung Kyabgön Chungtsang. I had met him in Delhi, and he is truly one of the kindest people you will ever meet. All of my pictures of him are so terrific because his goodness just shines through. Like so many Tibetan monks, … Read more
Sravasti
November 2017 Sravasti (or Shravasti) is on the pilgrimage site for Buddhists. One of the reasons is because it is where Buddha performed the Miracle of Pairs. The Miracle of Pairs, also called the Miracle at Sravasti, was performed by Buddha seven years after his enlightenment. The miracle occurred in a contest with heretics, who … Read more
Our Gracious hosts the Buddhist Vihar Shanti Upvan
November 2017 Today was another road trip. We were to start at 5:00 as the monk’s last meal must be before noon, and we had a long drive to reach our lunch spot. This is actually their last meal of solid food, afternoon they are allowed liquids, so soup is always served to the monks … Read more
Road Trip to Sravasti
November 2017 Today was another road trip. We were to start at 5:00 as the monk’s last meal must be before noon, and we had a long drive to reach our lunch spot. This is actually their last meal of solid food, afternoon they are allowed liquids, so soup is always served to the monks … Read more
Day two of Holy Days
November 2017 Today was a repeat of yesterday. We started quietly, in the heavy fog, chanting under the tree. We broke for lunch and returned to find the holy day we experienced yesterday was taking place again today. I am just going to share photos of the event, they say more than words. * *This … Read more
A Road Trip to Sankasya
November 2017 So the road between Delhi and Sankasya consists of a 6-hour bus ride. Bus rides through India are a patchwork quilt of an agricultural landscape dotted with villages of wonder. But this time the bus trip was occupied by learning the lives of some of the monks. Remember, English is not their first … Read more
A Holy Day
November 2017 Day two in Sankasya started out with a lovely morning of chanting. We always break for lunch and in Sankasya lunch has been at a Burmese monastery. We are traveling with a crew of Indians from Bodh Gaya, and that includes a cooking crew. However, to earn meta it is good to cook … Read more
An Ashram and a University
We spent the day and night at the Sri Aurobindo. It is an Ashram that was begun in Pondicherry with the Delhi campus built in the 1950s. The ashram was our host for an all day chanting ceremony and a Dharma talk. We also ate our meals there and spent the night. Wikipedia description: “The … Read more
A Difficult Day
We spent the day and night at the Sri Aurobindo. It is an Ashram that was begun in Pondicherry with the Delhi campus built in the 1950s. The ashram was our host for an all day chanting ceremony and a Dharma talk. We also ate our meals there and spent the night. Wikipedia description: “The … Read more
Wrapping up Sarnath
Bits and Pieces of Sarnath November 2017 I had the chance to head into Varanasi and go to the Kriti Art Gallery. It is owned by Navneet and his wife Petra. I had met Navneet at the chanting ceremony, but this was the first chance I had to meet Petra as she had been traveling. … Read more
SINI
Sarnath and SINI November 2017 We are staying at the Sarnath International Nyingma Institute. SINI is an amazing complex built brick by brick, literally, by a handful of volunteers. While the final product is the result of hundreds of people it was driven by one powerful and stunning woman, Tsering Gellek, Tsering (think Serene) is … Read more
A Day of Fun and Culture
Sarnath Day 2 November 2017 Day two was a day of fun and relaxation. We rose at 5:00 in the morning to go for a river ride on the Ganges. I have done this trip before and if you are interested in photos and history please click here. This trip was all about the monks. … Read more
Tipitaka Chanting in Sarnath, India
Day one in Sarnath was spent chanting the Dhammachakka Sutra in the shadow of the Damekh Stupa, where it is thought Buddha delivered his second sermon. On day one we were very separate groups all divided by language with only the common thread of any group that has just been thrust together. The morning opened … Read more
Entering the Unknown
November 2017 I am at a total loss as to how to convey what is actually transpiring on this journey. The coming together of cultures with a huge language barrier and incredible cultural and educational differences is not something we all experience every day, if in fact in one’s lifetime. These comings together are not … Read more
Detroit’s Giant Tire
Along Interstate 94 West Between the Southfield Freeway interchange and Outer Drive overpass Allen Park, Michigan This giant Uniroyal Giant Tire was originally created by the Uniroyal Tire Company for the 1964 New York World’s Fair, as a Ferris wheel. The wheel was designed by Shreve, Lamb & Harmon, the architectural firm that designed the … Read more
The Way to the Copper Canyon
Tijuana to El Fuerte via Los Mochis May 2, 2017 There are many ways to travel to Mexico’s Copper Canyon, but, as Californians, we chose to go through San Diego. It is a simple, and amazingly efficient walk across the bridge from San Diego to the Tijuana airport. $16 in advance, purchasable online, for the … Read more
Chihuahua Pacific Railroad
El Fuerte to Cerocahui May 3, 2017 It would be normal to begin your Copper Canyon train ride in Los Mochis where it begins but the area between there and El Fuerte is apparently not terribly interesting so it is easier to take a car to El Fuerte and begin there. You are told to … Read more
Cerocahui, Mexico
Cerocahui, Mexico The Place of Grasshoppers (pronounced: Sara ca hooey) May 3, 2017 The Jesuits were either directly in front of, or directly behind the Spanish conquistadors in so many of the conquered countries of Spain. The Spanish encroachment, by missionaries and settlers alike in the Copper Canyon, led many of the local Indians, the … Read more
Traveling to Urique, Mexico
The Road to Urique May 4, 2017 The road from Cerocahui to Urique took about 2 and 1/2 hours one way on an unpaved very bumpy road. The photo of the road above is of a nice stretch of the road. The trip is absolutely worth it for the stunning views of the canyons of … Read more
Tarahumara or Rarámuri
May 5, 2017 Kuira-Ba is a Tarahumara word. Kuira means hello, and then adding the Ba means Good Morning, Good Afternoon or Good Night. The Tarahumara Indians have a fascinating history, it will take a long time to see how well it survives the future. Many Tarahumara are found in the bigger towns and are discovering … Read more
Creel, a fast changing town on the Chihuahua Pacific Railroad
May 2017 The town of Creel was established by Enrique Creel. History views him as both monster and paragon, as always, the truth lies somewhere in between, but that is for a further dissertation. Enrique Creel founded the town in 1906 while he was Governor of the State of Chihuahua. He had planned it as … Read more
The Road to Batopilas
May 2017 It is impossible to describe the drive from Creel to Batopilas. The first portion of our drive took us through the Tarahumara Indian lands, of which you pay a nominal entrance fee. The roads here are dirt and they are intended to drive you to small areas of interest with women selling Tarahumara … Read more
Batopilas, Mexico
May 2017 Enchanting is the only appropriate word I can find for the small pueblo of Batopilas, in the state of Chihuahua, Mexico. ¡Me Encanta! would be my next few. We visited in the first week of May 2017 and were the only non-residents in town. December and January are the busiest months for Batopilas, and … Read more
Divisadero, Mexico
May 9, 2017 Our day began with a train ride from Creel to the Divisadero area. The trip is rather quick, with one stop before reaching our destination. That stop is called Divisadero and passengers are given 20 minutes to disembark and marvel at the junction of the Tararecua Canyon and the Urique canyon below. There … Read more
Main Street Railroad Station in Richmond, VA
1500 East Main Street Richmond, VA March 2017 This glorious building was not included in the VSA Spring study tour, but you could not help walk past it if you explore Richmond at all, and especially if you walk from downtown Richmond to the Shockoe District. The Main Street Station was built in 1901 by … Read more
Bolling Haxall House
2111 Franklin Street Richmond, VA March 2017 The Woman’s Club, that is housed in Bolling Haxall House, was founded in 1894 with the mission to advance education. The house is one of the few private clubs, cum museum, in the US that is open to anyone that comes and knocks on its door. The Woman’s … Read more
Off the Beaten Path in Richmond, Virginia
There are always weird and wonderful things that one finds when traveling, and here are three that I found in Richmond. The Markel Building 5310 Markel Road This 1962 building by Haig Jamgochian, was inspired by a foil wrapped potato. Don’t believe me? Check out the historic marker sign next to the building. As the sign … Read more
Two Unique Churches in Richmond, Virginia
Saint Paul’s Episcopal Church 815 E. Grace Street and Confederate Memorial Chapel 2900 Grove Avenue Saint Paul’s is located directly across the street from the Virginia State Capitol, and has long been a popular house of worship for political figures, including General Robert E. Lee and Confederate President Jefferson Davis. The first Episcopal church in … Read more
Virginia State Capitol
Virginia State Capitol Richmond, VA March 2017 Virginia’s State Capitol, located in Richmond, is the third capital city of the U.S. state of Virginia and houses the oldest legislative body in the Western Hemisphere. Thomas Jefferson is credited with the overall design of the new Capitol, together with French architect Charles-Louis Clérisseau. The design was … Read more
Monument Avenue
Monument Avenue Richmond Virginia March 2017 Monument Avenue is either a bone of contention or an art gallery, and stirs emotions in all. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1970 and a National Historic Landmark in 1997, making it, more than likely, an unchangeable force, as the NHL listing is the highest … Read more
Richmond, Virginia’s Old City Hall
1000 E Broad Street Richmond Virginia March 2017 This High Victorian Gothic structure was designed by Detroit architect Elijah E. Meyers and was completed in 1894. Old City Hall served as Richmond’s city hall until the 1970s. This is the third Richmond municipal building on this site, and occupies an entire city block. The original … Read more
Egyptology and Richmond, Virginia
Monument Church 1224 East Broad Street The Egyptian Building 1223 East Marshall Street March 2017 Egyptian revival is an architectural style that uses the motifs and imagery of ancient Egypt. It is attributed generally to the public awareness of ancient Egyptian monuments generated by Napoleon’s conquest of Egypt and Admiral Nelson’s defeat of Napoleon at … Read more
Maymont
2201 Shield Lakes Drive Richmond, Virginia March 2017 In 1893, Major James H. Dooley, a wealthy Richmond lawyer and philanthropist, along with his wife, Sallie, completed this elaborate estate in Richmond, Virginia on a 100-acre site overlooking the James River. The house was occupied until Sallie May Dooley’s death in 1925, her husband had predeceased … Read more
Richmond, Virginia’s Canal Walk and Edgar Allan Poe
The Edgar Allan Poe Museum 1914 East Main Street March 2017 Though Poe never lived in the building, the museum serves to commemorate his time living in Richmond. The museum holds one of the world’s largest collections of original manuscripts, letters, first editions, memorabilia and personal belongings. The museum also provides an overview of early … Read more
Hollywood Cemetery
412 South Cherry Street Richmond, Virginia March 2017 Hollywood Cemetery is the resting place of two United States Presidents, James Monroe and John Tyler, as well as the only Confederate States President, Jefferson Davis. It is also the resting place of 28 Confederate generals, more than any other cemetery in the country. In the late … Read more
Shockoe Hill Cemetery
Fourth and Hospital Street Richmond, Virginia March 2017 Just north out of the downtown area of Richmond, Virginia is Shokoe Hill Cemetery. Originally called the “burying ground” it opened in 1820, its original 4 acres has grown to a little over 12 acres. There are an estimated 300,000 bodies buried in Shockoe Hill, these include … Read more
One Architectural Day in Athens
October 25, 2016 Athens held the Olympics in 2004, and its stadium, like many after the Olympics, is abandoned and sad. There is much speculation that the Athenians were so wrapped up in the crash of their economy to properly find re-use purposes for the buildings, but there is other discussion that they just didn’t … Read more
Heraklion, Crete
October 23, 2016 You come to Heraklion to visit Knossos, but it is a city worth exploring as well. It is the largest city and the administrative capital of Crete also the fourth largest city in Greece. On the 23rd of May 1941, German bombers dropped bombs over the city on anything standing. At the … Read more
Knossos: Myths amongst the Ruins
October 22, 2016 Heraklion is one the top of everyone’s list to visit when they go to Crete. The reason for this is Knossos. Knossos is crowded with tour buses pouring off of cruise ships, and tourists exploring on their own. The walk to the entry of the site is rampant with tchochke shops and barkers luring … Read more
A Road Trip of Ruins
October 21, 2016 Phaistos The day began by visiting Phaistos, an important site of the Minoan civilization. The Minoan civilization, which flourished in Crete during the second millennium BC, ranks among the great civilizations of the ancient world. It had four places of power, areas that are called palaces, Knossos, Phaistos, Mália and Zakros. The lands … Read more
Wandering the Amári Valley
October 20, 2016 The Amári Valley is not for those with an agenda. The drive is through some lovely and barren terrain, interrupted rarely by small towns that appear to be completely uninhabited. The joy is in the hidden surprises. The valley is towered over by Mount Idi, an often-used crossword puzzle word for you … Read more
The Holy Monastery of Arkadi
October 20, 2016 People come to Crete for many reasons, I came to get off the beaten path as often as possible. This was the first stop in the wanderings around the Amári Valley. The Amári Valley sits at the foothills of Mount Ida and Mount Kedros. The Monastery of Arkadi or Moni Arkadiou is about … Read more
Rethymnon, Crete
October 20, 2016 So many of the Cretan towns are built on the same model, i.e. large protective walls in various states of decay, a fort, a small port and tiny winding streets. The joy is, that they each have their own personalities as well. Rethymnon, while, if one were reading a description, would be … Read more
Katholiko Monastery, a very, very hidden gem
October 19, 2016 Today we moved from Chania to Rethymnon with a side trip to the Katholiko Monastery or Monastery of St. John the Hermit. We began by getting terribly lost leaving Chania. That is not that difficult as roads and sites in Greece have always been terribly marked. After many small winding roads, and … Read more
Chania Continues
October 18, 2016 In 1620, during the Venetian rule in Crete, the constant threat of the Ottoman Turks led the Venetians to fortify Chania with Firka Fortress at the harbor. It was originally built with 319 cannons, 30,695 cannonballs and 414 pounds of gunpowder. Firka means barracks in Turkish. It is possible to still see the … Read more
Χαίρετε From Chania, Crete
October 17, 2016 Chania, Crete is a fascinating city with an equally fascinating history. It is a large city with an old town, Kasteli, that sits on the water with its narrow streets, hotels, restaurants and classic tourist perfect village, and I mean that in a good way. Originally a Minoan settlement, the area around … Read more
High Above Istanbul
October 15, 2016 A boat ride up the Golden Horn is worth the trip if you have the time. I have already written about the Eyüp Sultan Mosque and the fascinating gravestones that surround the mosque. A trip to the Pierre Loti Café can be incorporated into the same visit if you plan ahead, if … Read more
Off the Beaten Path in Istanbul
October 14, 2016 There are so many places to explore in a city that covers almost 600 square miles with a population of over 14 million people. One that is worth venturing out for is the Sakip Sabanci Museum. The museum’s permanent collection of the Arts of Calligraphy is comprehensive and stunning. It is comparable … Read more
Two Beautiful Train Stations in Istanbul
October 13, 2016 The Istanbul Haydarpaşa Terminal was a major intercity, regional and commuter rail hub as well as the busiest railway station in Turkey until 2012. Found on the Asian side of Istanbul, a ferry ride on the Kadikoy – Eminonu line will take your right past the terminal. The closure of the station … Read more
Antalya, Turkey
October 12, 2016 Antalya is an interesting town. The city has a population of almost 2 million people, which almost doubles in the summer time, spread out over an area of 8000 square miles. It is hard to fathom its size, but the heart of Antalya is the walled ancient city of Kaleiçi. The historical … Read more
Termessos, Turkey
October 12, 2016 Termessos was built at an altitude of more than ½ mile up Solymos Mountain in the Taurus Mountain Range of Turkey. It sits in Mount Güllük-Termessos National Park. You are able to drive up a little ways, but the rest must be seen after quite a steep walk. It is well preserved, … Read more
Kaş, Turkey
October 10, 2016 The town of Kaş is a lovely, unspoiled, tourist town that sits on a hill and runs down to the Turquoise Coast of southwestern Turkey. It is filled with fabulous restaurants, quaint shopping and a view from everywhere that is just stupendous. One of the ways that people spend their time in … Read more
Xanthos and Letoön, Turkey
October 9, 2016 I am on the Mediterranean and have already written about the tombs of Myra. I did so without really addressing the Lycian culture. Now is the time to do so. Lycia was a geopolitical region in Anatoli in what are now the provinces of Antalya and Muğla on the southern Mediterranean coast, … Read more
Agriculture of Turkey
October 9, 2016 You will find tomatoes and cucumbers at every meal in Turkey; in fact there is a salad on every menu called a shepherd’s salad that is nothing but these two ingredients in one form or another. I would normally be thrilled with this, but the first few I had I realized immediately … Read more
Myra, Turkey and Saint Nicholas
October 8, 2016 Myra was an ancient Greek town in Lycia in the fertile alluvial plain between Alaca Dağ, the Massikytos range and the Aegean Sea. It now is part of Turkey on the Mediterranean Sea. The first known reference to Myra was when it was listed as a member of the Lycian alliance in … Read more
Yörük Köyü
October 2016 This is really an adjunct to the post on Safranbolu. The town of Yörük Köyü is just a few miles outside of Safranbolu, but has not been restored. This gives one an excellent chance to see what is underneath the plaster finishes of a completed Ottoman House. This post will just be photographs, if you … Read more
Safranbolu, Turkey
October 6, 2016 In researching about the homes of Safranbolu I came across the Gülevi Safranbolu dissertation on the history, preservation and future of Safranbolu. It is a text worthy of a thesis, and difficult to absorb without having a full understanding of the area. I found it to be a necessary piece of writing, … Read more
121 Miles in over 4 Hours – What a Road!
October 4, 2016 Our day began this morning in the town of Abano. We had driven from Sinop the day before along the coast of the Black Sea. After overnighting in a “resort” hotel with only 6 other guests in this off-season we chose to take the coastal road all the way to Amasra. There … Read more
Driving parts of the Turkish Black Sea
October 2, 2016 Our Black Sea journey begins at Sinop and will end in Amasra. Sinop sits on the most northern edge of the Turkish side of the Black Sea coast. Long used as a Hittite port, the city proper was re-founded as a Greek colony from the city of Miletus in the 7th century BC.. … Read more
The Outer Edges of Inner Anatolya
October 2, 2016 Our last day in Central Anatolia was spent in Amasya. Amasya is on the short list to become a world heritage sight for Mount Harşena and the rock-tombs of the Pontic Kings. This centuries old city lines the Yeşilırmak River. You can still see parts of the fortified ancient city of Amasya … Read more
The Hittite Empire of Anatolya
October 1, 2016 The reason to drive nearly 200 miles across Central Anatolia is to visit the center of the Hittite civilization. No one is certain about the origins of the Hittites, or for that matter, how they got to Anatolia, but it is clear they arrived sometime before the 2nd millennium BC. The Hittites … Read more
Wandering from Ürgup to Sobessos in Turkey
September 29, 2016 The Keslik Monastery sits just on the outskirts of Taşkinpasa. The Monastery held about 250 people and had two cave churches. The first one is Archangelos church and the other one Saint Stefanos church. There are wonderful frescoes in the Archangelos church, but they are so badly covered with soot that you … Read more
Soğanli, Turkey
September 30, 2016 Our day began in the Soğanlı Valley, (The Valley of Onions). This is about off the beaten path as you can get, not only due to the drive, but the remoteness of the valley itself. Around the sixth century the Christian inhabitants of this region created a vast network of tunnels into … Read more
Walking the Ihlara Valley
September 29, 2016 The Ihlara Valley sits near Mount Hasan and Mount Melendiz, two of the three volcanoes of Cappadocia. The valley is a canyon about 300 feet deep, and was formed by the Melendiz River. Due the valley’s plentiful supply of water and hidden places, this was the first settlement of the first Christians escaping from … Read more
Selemi
September 29, 2016 The Selimi Cathedral is not a highly visited area, mainly because the walk is extremely difficult. If you are going to do the walk to the top of this mountain I suggest very good shoes. It can be confusing, but important to understand that the entire mountain is called Selime Cathedral. There … Read more
Derikuyu, not for the faint of heart
September 29, 2016 Derinkuyu (Deep Well) is just one of many, many underground cities lying underneath Cappadocia. In fact they believe there are at least 36 underground cities in the area, only a few have been excavated. It is really difficult to describe how claustrophobic the spaces are, how one has to stoop over for … Read more
The town of Göreme and the Open Air Museum
September 28, 2016 Cappadocia is a large region that includes many towns, named by the Persians it means beautiful horses. Today I am in Göreme. The time that the Göreme was first settled is unclear, but it could date back as the Hittite era, between 1800 and 1200 B.C. The location was central between … Read more
Nemrut Daği, King Antiochus and the Romans
September 27, 2016 There are several important historical sites with Nemrut Daği. One of these is the Tomb of Karakus, located on Karadag Mountain. Antiochis was the second daughter of King Antiochus I Theos of Commagene and Queen Isias Philostorgos. Unfortunately very little is known about Antiochis. The identity of her husband is unknown however, she … Read more
Mount Nemrut, Turkey
September 27, 2016 The Kingdom of Commagene was an ancient Armenian kingdom of the Hellenistic period (between 323 and 31 BC). Commagene has been characterized as a “buffer state” between Armenia, Parthia (northeastern Iran), Syria, and Rome. Little is known of the region of Commagene prior to the beginning of the 2nd century BC. However, … Read more
The drive from Kayseri to Mount Nemrut
September 26, 2016 Turkey is a vast country with lots and lots of open space between its cities. I am off to visit Mount Nemrut, but it is not easy, it includes long drives through the same scenery for hours. The day began at 9:00 in the morning with a long drive from Kayseri. A stop … Read more
Kayseri, Turkey
September 25, 2016 Kayseri surprised me, I had read some article that gave me the impression it was a very small and backward city. That is absolutely not the case. Kayseri is one of the more conservative cities of Turkey, but it is far from small or backward. It is, in fact, a large and … Read more
Laodicea, Turkey
September 24, 2016 Just a short bus ride from Denizli is the ancient city of Laodicea. Established between 263 and 261 BC, the city was built on the river Lycus. It was located in the Hellenistic regions of Caria and Lydia, which later became the Roman Province of Phrygia Pacatiana. Laodicea contained one of the seven churches … Read more
Pamukkale
September 24, 2016 Pamukkale means “cotton castle” in Turkish. The area contains hot springs and terraces of carbonate minerals left by flowing water. The ancient Greco-Roman and Byzantine city of Hierapolis was built on top of the white “castle” which is 8,860 feet long, 1,970 feet wide and 525 feet high, and too awe inspiring to … Read more
Hieropolis
Hieropolis is a fascinating place to visit as there are only a few historical facts known about the origin of the city. The Phrygians built a temple, probably in the first half of the 3rd century BC and this temple would eventually form the center of Hierapolis. In 133 BC Attalus III bequeathed his kingdom … Read more
3 Jitneys, 2 Gentlemen, 1 Çay
I chose to stay in the town of Denizli for this leg of my trip. I cannot recommend my hotel, or the town for that matter, but I have not met anyone that can recommend a hotel or the town either. It is possible it would have been better to have stayed up the mountain … Read more
Thoughts on Istanbul in September
September 22, 2016 I wanted to write about a few things to wrap up this part of my Istanbul trip. This is also a great place for me to post some pictures that have no rhyme nor reason. Turkey is changing, for good or bad is not my place to say. I had an opportunity … Read more
Troy
September 21, 2016 Did you know that the story of the Trojan Wars was told in a set of 12 narratives titled the Epic Cycle, which possibly dates from the eighth to the sixth centuries BCE. The Illiad and the Odyssey are the only complete works remaining. Regarding Troy, I would like to quote … Read more
The Grand Bazaar of Istanbul
September 20, 2016 The Grand Bazaar needs no words, photos will do all my talking. You might like a little history however, so here goes. The Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) in Istanbul is one of the largest covered markets in the world with 60 streets and 5,000 shops, and attracts between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily. … Read more
Not Your Normal Itinerary in Istanbul
September 20, 2016 This is not my first time in Istanbul, so if you are looking for a rundown on the highlights, such as the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, I am sorry. The emblem of the town of Istanbul was designed by Metin Edremit, after winning a 1968 contest put on by the Municipal … Read more
Some Unusual Architecture in Montreal
September 18, 2016 This is the Grande Bibliotheque, a public library in Downtown Montreal. Its collection is part of Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec (BAnQ), Quebec’s national library. * The library’s collection consists of some 4,000,000 works, including 1,140,000 books, 1,200,000 other documents, and 1,660,000 microfiches. The majority of the works are in French; … Read more
More of Montreal, its landscape and architecture.
September 17, 2016 Montreal is laid out in an interesting pattern. Every fourth street was created wider in order to allow horse drawn drayage carts to turn around. There are public parks spread throughout and more common that in most towns, but not consistent such as you find in New Orleans. One of the main … Read more
One day in Ottawa
September 16, 2016 In 1841, Lower Canada (now Quebec) and Upper Canada (now Ontario) joined to form the Province of Canada. Its seat of government alternated for many years. In 1857, Queen Victoria was asked to select a permanent capital. Surprisingly, the Queen chose the lumber town of Ottawa over the established cities of Toronto, Kingston, … Read more
Montreal, Canada
September 15, 2016 Walking all around Montreal Attempting to get a sense of history and architecture Montreal, is the most populous city in Quebec and the second most populous municipality in Canada. Originally called Ville-Marie, or “City of Mary,” it is named after Mount Royal, the triple-peaked hill in the heart of the city. Montreal … Read more
The Conga
Americans think of the Conga as a kitschy dance done in a line. It is a very different thing in Cuba. During the weeks leading up to Carnival, the streets fill with the Conga on any given day at any given time. The Conga is both a drum (traditionally called a tambore or tambadora) … Read more
Cuban Internet 2016
I recently read an article about Americans that don’t use the internet, and it was essentially what you would expect, primarily rural and older people. I wonder if Americans ever give any thought to people that simply can’t use the internet, because it doesn’t exist. There is a misconception about Cuba and the internet amongst … Read more
Valladolid, Mexico
We were in Valladolid for only a few hours, with the main intention to have lunch and visit the convent. That is not nearly enough time to get to know and enjoy this fabulous colonial Mexican town. Named after Valladolid, at the time the capital of Spain, the first Valladolid in Yucatán was established on … Read more
Coba, Mexico
January 2016 The ruins of Coba lie approximately 22 miles northwest of Tulum, in the State of Quintana Roo and remained little visited, due to its remoteness, until the first modern road was opened up in the early 1970s. Coba is located around two lagoons, which gave it its name. Coba means ‘waters stirred by wind’ or ‘ruffled … Read more
Tulum, Mexico
The city of Tulum is not something to write home about. It, like Cancun and Playa del Carmen developed due to, and for, tourism, it does not, in any way, represent the architecture or spirit of Mexico. However, at the edge of the city sits the great ruins of an ancient civilization, and they are worth … Read more
Baracoa, Cuba and the road to Maias
October 2015 Baracoa is the oldest city in Cuba and sits as the far east end of the island. Baracoa means “the presence of the sea” in the Aruaca language, which was spoken by the original inhabitants of this area, the Taino. The town of Baracoa was founded in 1511 and immediately became the political … Read more
The White Sand Beaches of Eastern Cuba
October 2015 If one heads North of Baracoa you get to Playa Maguana. This absolutely stunning white sand beach has a small government run hotel (Villa Maguana) with its own small private beach and fairly decent restaurant and bar. I have stayed in many government hotels in Cuba, do not let this photo fool you, … Read more
Cuban Road to Freedom from the Spanish
October 2015 This trip goes from La Demajagua to Bayamo, the trail marks the beginning of the Cuban struggle for freedom from the Spanish. What is most striking to me is that it is farmland for mile after mile. After hours of driving through countryside without seeing anything but a few farm houses, crops and tractors, you get a … Read more
Cuban Families in the Countryside
October 2015 There is nothing like being a member of a Cuban family, there is love, fierce loyalty, and drama, drama, drama. It was time to spend a day and night with the family in the countryside, and that meant drinks, food, drinks, food, love, hugs, kisses, and family politics. Let me begin in Contramaestre. … Read more
Museo Zoologico de Piedra
October 2015 The Museo Zoologico de Piedra This fun little diversion about 12 miles east of Guantanamo is the brainchild of Ángel ĺñigo Brito. Ángel was a farmer and self-taught sculptor. He began carving these animals in stone around his property in 1978. The sculptures graphically depict life in the wilds, and yet can be … Read more
Jardin de los Helechos
October 2015 One day, out for a hot and steamy drive from Santiago de Cuba, we tripped over the Jardin de los Helechos. It was after closing time for the park, but as we poked our noses around, the delightful director stepped out, beckoned us in, and gave us a full private tour. The Jardin … Read more
Morikami Japanese Gardens, Delray Beach, Florida
October 2015 Morikami Museum and Gardens were established in 1977 after Mr. Morikami bequeathed the land for the garden. The Japanese influence to this part of Florida is interesting. In 1904, Jo Sakai, a new graduate of New York University returned to his home in Miyazu, Japan to organize a group of farmers with hopes of experimenting … Read more
McKee Botanical Garden, Vero Beach, Florida
October 2015 The McKee Botanical Garden began its life in 1932, when land speculator Arthur G. McKee and architect Waldo E. Sexton opened McKee Jungle Gardens. This, originally, 80-acre, garden in Vero Beach, Florida was designed by landscape architect William Lyman Phillips from the office of Fredrick Law Olmsted. By the 1940s more than 100,000 … Read more
Jim Thorpe, Pennsylvania
October 2015 Jim Thorpe was originally called Mauch Chunk (Bear Place in the Lenape Indian Language). It is the seat of Pennsylvania’s, Carbon County, and is called both “Switzerland of America” and “Gateway to the Poconos”. This was the company town of the Lehigh Coal & Navigation Company. The company developed a gravity-fed rail system … Read more
History and Architecture of Scranton, PA
October 2015 Scranton Pennsylvania is the county seat of Lackawanna and the 6th largest city in Pennsylvania. Incorporated in 1866, it saw its hey-dey in the Anthracite Coal boom. At that time the population was about 102,000, today it is about 76,000. Electric lighting was introduced to Scranton through the Dickson Locomotive Works in 1880 … Read more
Lackawanna Station – Scranton, PA
October 2015 This is now the Radisson Hotel, however, it originally was the Lackawanna Train Station a vital piece in the development of Scranton, Pennsylvania. Scranton began as an iron mill town, these mills began manufacturing iron rails for the trains, which till then, had been imported from England. This manufacturing made the organization of railroads … Read more
Masonic Hall – Scranton, PA
October 2015 The Masonic Hall in Scranton Pennsylvania is so massive, this postcard is the only way to show it in its entirety. The building is loaded with Masonic iconography, including this dragon unfurling its wings over the entryway. The reference is to the Draconis star system which equals light, light being the symbol of … Read more
Walking Scranton Pennsylvania
October 2015 This is the Lackawanna County Courthouse at 200 Washington Avenue. It was designed by Isaac G Perry in the Romanesque Revival Style and built in 1884. It utilizes a local West Mountain stone The third story was added in 1896 by architect B. Taylor Lacey. The interior has been so radically modified … Read more
Wilkes-Barre, PA – Its History and Its Architecture
October 2015 Let us start with, how do you pronounce Wilkes-Barre? The town was named in honor of British Parliament members, John Wilkes, and Isaac Barre and throughout its history, the city’s name has gone through various spellings, including Wilkesbarre, Wilkesborough, Wilkesburg, Wilkesbarra, Wilkes Barry and Wilkes Berry. The two widely accepted ways to pronounce this hyphenated name … Read more
St. Stephens Church – Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania
October 2015 Saint Stephen’s church is a masterpiece in understated elegance and master craftsmanship. It sits on South Franklin Street and is a downtown landmark. The church is built of locally-quarried yellow stone and was the second church that Philadelphia architect Charles M. Burns designed for the site: the first, built in 1885, burned down on Christmas Day … Read more
Luzerne County Courthouse
October 2015 This is the Luzerne County Courthouse, it is an architectural wonder, not to be missed if you are in Wilkes-Barre. Wilkes-Barre was once part of Connecticut. At the beginning of its history, the territory belonged to Northampton County, Connecticut. In 1786, after the establishment of Pennsylvania’s claim to the disputed territory, Luzerne County was formed … Read more
A Small Sample of the Architecture of Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania
October 2015 This is the Memorial Presbyterian Church, at 29 West North Street, built in 1872. It has been abandoned and is searching for a new loving owner. The church was built by Calvin Whitehead, he lost his three children to scarlet fever, and they are memorialized in these stained glass windows “being dead, might … Read more
Hollenback Cemetery – Wilkes-Barre
October 2015 The Hollenback Cemetery Association was formed in 1855 with 15 acres gifted by Colonel George M. Hollenback. Although this is the cemetery for the “upper crust” it resides in a neighborhood that is primarily surrounded with old miners homes. In 1887 John Welles Hollenback gave an additional five acres as a gift … Read more
Lunch at a Bhutanese Farmhouse
Haa Valley, Bhutan September 2015 Our small group was treated to lunch in a farmhouse in the Haa Valley. Tea is a very vital part of the social fabric of Bhutan. It is served the moment you arrive in the home, and usually with snacks. In this case the top basket is the typical … Read more
The Haa Valley
Haa, Bhutan September 2015 The Haa valley was not opened to tourism until 2002, it is the home of the Queen Grandmother, and is a culturally rich, and very lush valley developed around the Haa Chu (river). Two of the most visited sites are the 7th century Lhakhang Karpo (White temple) and Lhakhang Nagpo (Black temple) at the … Read more
The Four Friends
Bhutan September 2015 This is the story of the Four Harmonious Friends. It is found everywhere in Bhutan. The image is of a bird, rabbit and monkey standing on each others shoulders and then they all stand on the back of an elephant. It is the epitome of social harmony. It is said that the … Read more
Prayer Flags and Ghost Catchers
Bhutan September 2015 Most people throughout the world have been exposed to Tibetan prayer flags, but the Bhutanese take the prayer flag a few steps further. The five colors of the prayer flag are red for fire, yellow for earth, green for wood, blue for water and white for metal. You will often see flags … Read more
Crafts of Bhutan
Bhutan September 2015 In Thimphu there is the Thimphu Institute for Zorig Chusum. This school, established in the 1970s is for preserving the traditional crafts of Bhutan. The course of study is between 5 and 6 years and teaches the 13 original crafts. Students are tested and then placed in the craft school most appropriate … Read more
Punakha Dzong
September 2015 Punakha, Bhutan The Punakah Dzong is one of the must do’s of Bhutan, situated at the convergence of the Mo Chuu and the Po Chuu, it was the second dzong of Bhutan and was built by the Zhabdrung in 1637. The Punakah Dzong serves as the winter home for the Je Khenpo (Buddhist … Read more
The Intimate Relationship between the Market and the Table
September 2015 Punakha, Bhutan Chilis and red rice are the main staples of Bhutanese cooking. A typical Bhutanese meal may consist of nothing more than red rice and Bhutan’s national dish ema datse. Ema datse consists of large green, sometimes red, but always hot, chilies prepared in a cheese sauce. The cheese is somewhere between a … Read more
Chef meets Chef
Hotel Zangto Pelri Punakha, Bhutan September 2015 Chanterelles (Sese Shamu) are in season in Bhutan, so our mushroom expert and chef extraordinaire, Jacinta, bought a bag, no, you don’t get to pick them out, they are bagged by the seller prior to your purchase. So after much deliberation as to the best bag, Jacinta purchased these … Read more
Namgyal Chorten and a perfect walk
September 2015 Punakha, Bhutan The walk to the Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten begins by crossing a delightful, and very stable suspension bridge. The area under the bridge serves as a pushing off spot for rafting and kayaking down the Mo Chuu. The walk is through lovely rice paddies with the first breathable stop being the … Read more
Drukpa Kunley – The Divine Madman
September 2015 Punakha, Bhutan The ride from Thimphu to Punakha goes across the Dochu La pass. At the top of the pass is a collection of 108 chortens. The chortens were built by the eldest Queen Mother, Her Majesty Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuk during a conflict on the border with Nepal. Nepalese marauders had come … Read more
Buddha Dordenma
This is the Buddha Dordenma a gigantic Shakyamuni Buddha statue the sits in the mountains just outside of Thimpu, Bhutan. It is one of the largest Buddha rupas in the world at 169 feet tall. The statue is made of bronze and gold gilt. The statue alone cost $47 million US, and was built by Aerosun … Read more
Tshechu
September 2015 Thimpu, Bhutan Tshechu literally means day ten, and are annual religious festivals of Bhutan. Each Dzong (province) has its own festival and they are held on the tenth day of the tenth month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. They are religious festivals, but they also serve as social events and places for people … Read more
Archery, Khuru and Dotsho
September 2015 Archery became the national sport of Bhutan in 1971. Played between two teams, the distance to the target is about 476 feet. The small targets are cut from wood and painted. The targets usually measure about 3 feet tall and 11 inches wide. Bullseyes are called karay. Traditionally, Bhutanese bows are made of bamboo, and arrows … Read more
Paro Dzong
September 22, 2015 Paro, Bhutan Dzongs serve as the citadel of each of the 20 districts of Bhutan, they are awe inspiring architectural wonders. Dozens were built of stone or rammed mud and lots and lots and lots of timber. The wide planked Bhutan Pine floors are just one part of the woodworking mastery in … Read more
Kyichu Lhakhang
September 22, 2015 Paro, Bhutan Blessed Rainy Day Today is Blessed Rainy Day, a national holiday in Bhutan marking the end of the monsoon season. Today all natural water resources in the country are considered to be sanctifying and the people are encouraged to take an outdoor bath in order to be cleansed of “bad deeds, obstructions … Read more
Mystical and Magical Taktshang Goemba
September 22, 2015 Paro, Bhutan There are many photos one see in ones life and thinks how wonderful it would be to visit. What the photo does not tell you is how difficult that can be. The Tigers Nest Monastery is one of the most venerated religious sites in both Bhutan and Bhuddism. The monastery … Read more
Introduction to Bhutan
Written on September 21, 2015 From Paro, Bhutan 59 Degrees F and raining The moment you land in Bhutan you know to dial it down several notches. It is a slow moving and peaceful country. To safeguard its environment, religion and culture, the country has adopted a controlled tourism policy. Although there is no longer … Read more
Cuba Factoids
April 2015 Every since I began writing about Cuba I have been asked some darn good questions. Before getting into reading about the country here are some simple statistics. So I don’t lose you here, I have interspersed other great information throughout, but here goes the easy stuff. The Republic of Cuba consists of one … Read more
Bits and Pieces of Cuba
January 2015 If you are traveling on a tour to Cuba you may see this statement on the top of your itinerary: “You are traveling on a government issued people-to-people license therefore free time to explore independently is not allowed.” To further elucidate that statement, there are places you will be required to go and another requirement … Read more
Gifts to Cuba
I am often asked what to take to the Cuban people. Please tread carefully here. Like so many countries around the world, the Cubans are no different in lacking of the essentials, but the other side of that coin is setting up a community that expects handouts from foreigners. If you are staying in hotels, … Read more
Cuban Education
2015 I often hear people say that one of the advantages of Cuba’s socialist system is the free education. My answer is, you get what you pay for. My “Cuban family” has two smaller children, seven and nine, and I am appalled at their education. It is fair in math and science, but history is the … Read more
Only Mad Dogs and Englishmen go out in the Midday Sun
While the actual numbers regarding July temperatures do not scream hot to many, it is one of the hottest July’s on record in Santiago de Cuba. This is a colonial town, there are no trees. The homes, built of heat radiating concrete, sit side by side, wall to wall, and the streets are narrow and … Read more
Today We Had Eggs
In July I was walking down the miserably hot streets of Santiago de Cuba on my way to the mercado. As I rounded the corner the women’s voices began to ring out, huevos (eggs), donde? (where?) la esquina, (the corner). You heard this repeated from house to house, street to street. Eggs were in. While eggs … Read more
Today there is no water
It is July 26th, one of the most important days in Santiago de Cuba. The heat is stifling and the only respite found during the day is a comfortable chair with a fan. Thanks to the extreme drought and continued poor management of utilities, by the government, the lights flicker and all of our water … Read more
Religion in Cuba
August 2015 My Cuban friend, whom I call Tio, asked me the other day what I thought of Raul Castro stating he might once again begin to go to church. My reaction, not ironically, was Dios Mio! In the U.S., a statement like that makes one fear the church will catch on fire, but there … Read more
I Tried to take a Drill into Cuba
It is actually very simple. You can not get decent tools in Cuba. Yes, you can purchase badly made, highly expensive, tools from Russia, but you can not buy quality, made-to-last tools. What person doesn’t need a cordless drill. They are, in my opinion, the one tool every home should have. This is the … Read more
Carnaval in Santiago de Cuba
The most famous of all Cuba festivals is the Carnaval of Santiago de Cuba. The festival is held annually from July 18 to 27. While there is quite a lot of history, I asked the Cubans themselves what Carnaval is to them, and the most common answer, after the obvious, one week off a year, … Read more
Carnaval Santiago de Cuba for the Kids
The second night of Carnaval I headed out to the kid’s area to see the rides. This is worth every moment, it is a true step back in time. Of course, there is entertainment along the way. Carnaval has moved this year, it is in a variety of places around town as usual but the … Read more
Bonaventure Cemetery of Savannah, Georgia
I have had a fascination for cemeteries for much of my life. My love of them comes from their quality of art. The rich and famous often hire the best sculptors of the time to memorialize their loved ones, so I often think of older cemeteries as large outdoor art galleries. With that concept in mind … Read more
Architectural Styles of Savannah
The architectural styles of Savannah are varied and, thanks to many preservationists, available for us all to study. There are hundreds of tour companies, riding in a variety of vehicles or by foot. There are many books out on Savannah Architecture, better forums than here to get a decent education. I will also say that … Read more
Details of Savannah
There is so much cast iron in Savannah but one of the more impressive pieces is the fountain in Forsyth Park The iconic fountain was selected out of a catalogue of ornamental ironwork by Janes, Beebe & Company of New York . Known simply as design Number Five, it was one of a handful of … Read more
Savannah Tidbits
There are so many wonderful architectural styles in Savannah, with details galore. I wanted to focus on a few items of interest that aren’t often talked about. The Archway in a private home delineated the private rooms from the public ones. The parlor and the gentleman’s office in this house are the two rooms that … Read more
The Square as the Heart of Savannah
I studied the squares of Savannah in Urban Planning classes at school. I was anxious to finally get to see them, but nothing compared to being educated further by Robin B. Williams, the Chair of the Architectural History Department at Savannah College of Art and Design. He has a book coming out in the fall … Read more
Cotton is King
May 2015 Savannah, Georgia is like other towns in the United States that have a plethora of historic architecture. They have more houses to tour than is humanly possible and more historical groups than can be counted on both hands and all toes. Savannah suffered greatly in the beginning of the second half of the … Read more
Savannah Fried Chicken and More
May 2015 Food in Savannah is Southern and then some. As a California girl, I will admit that I am not the absolute fondest of fried food and the lack of fresh vegetables, but the South is growing up and I found lots to crow about. I want to start, however, with one of the … Read more
Two Hours in Charleston, South Carolina
Charleston is steeped in Southern history and they are proud of it, beginning with their flag. The South Carolina flag was designed by Colonel William Moultrie in 1775. The first flag simply had a crescent moon with the words liberty written on the moon. That design flew over a fortress on Sullivan’s Island where Moultrie … Read more
Beaufort, South Carolina
May 2015 I am in the south for the Victorian Society Annual meeting. I have never been to this part of the south, and am anxious to explore the architecture and the history. Today was spent in Beaufort, South Carolina, a one hour drive from Savannah, Georgia. I did not even know this town existed until … Read more
Odds and Ends
This post, I hope, will give you a better insight to the Cuba outsiders just don’t see or know. This is the bedroom of one of an elderly woman. The house was two rooms, the other being the kitchen. This woman worked as a school teacher, and at the age of 70, this is all … Read more
Santiago de Cuba
It is April 2015 and I have returned to Cuba. This time I am traveling with a Cuban national, one of the approved ways of entering the country. Santiago de Cuba, or Santiago, is the second largest and second most important city of Cuba. However, the hospitality of the “Santiagueros” is second to none! I … Read more
Santiago de Cuba
This is a Phrygian cap. It is a soft conical cap with the top pulled forward and in the past was associated with the people of the Phrygia region of Anatolia. In early modern Europe it came to signify freedom and the pursuit of liberty through a confusion with the pileus, the felt cap of manumitted (emancipated) … Read more
Santiago de Cuba – El Morro
Strategically located on a cliff top, the structure, Castillo de San Pedro del Morro, took 62 years to build and was completed at the end of the 17th century. It was designed in 1637 by Italian engineer, Giovanni Battista Antonelli, as a defense against raiding pirates, although an earlier, smaller, fortification had been built on the … Read more
Saint Ifigenia Cemetery – Santiago de Cuba
Created in 1868 to accommodate the victims of the War of Independence and a simultaneous yellow-fever outbreak, the Santa Ifigenia includes many great historical figures among its 8000-plus tombs, notably the mausoleum of José Martí. When the cemetery was inaugurated in February 1868, it was in the form of a Roman cross, divided into courtyards. … Read more
El Cobre – Santiago de Cuba
This is El Cobre, a church with a colorful history and a stunning interior. Built in 1926, El Cobre lies about 12 miles outside of Santiago de Cuba. A focus of intese popular devotion—not just for Catholics but also for followers of Santería and even those who aren’t otherwise religious—the beloved Virgin of Charity was declared … Read more
El Cobre for the View
Once you leave the Cathedral in El Cobre, and if you are willing to walk 400 steps, be certain to visit the Monumento al Cimmarón. You very well may be met at the bottom of the stairs by a “guide”. He will take you off the beaten path to see this “holy” tree. It is … Read more
Guantanamo
April 2015 I have come to Guantánamo to visit my friends family. This post is really just a walking tour of the downtown. The town of Guantánamo was founded in 1796 to handle the French fleeing the slave revolution of Haiti. Along with being famous for the naval base, the song Guantanamera (girl from Guantánamo) … Read more
Felix Baez Sarrias and Jennifer Reyes Chavez
Jennifer Reyes Chavez is a very very bright young 9 year old from Cuba. When this article appeared in the November 21, 2014 issue of Granma, which is delivered to her home everyday, she was so moved she decided to write a poem. GINEBRA.-Cuban doctor Felix Baez Sarrias, member of the International Contingent Brigade “Henry Reeve” infected … Read more
The best Albariño I have tasted – Galicia, Spain
This is not a plug for a winery, this is about a Spanish gentleman that makes great wine. I had the pleasure of meeting Clemente Sequeiros when he escorted my friend Julie B. and I around the Vigo area, house hunting. Clemente is an architect as well as a winemaker, a scholar and a gentleman. … Read more
Househunting in Galicia
March 2015 I have traveled to Galicia, Spain with my friend Julie B. to go house hunting. The house is for her and her husband, not for me, I am just along for the adventure. Househunting in a foreign country is always a different experience, and Spain is no different. There are the rules you … Read more
Taking the Waters at Balneario de Mondariz
What ever happened to Taking the Waters? What a lovely way to pass the time, and yet you only see people doing so in Hercule Poirot TV shows and old movies. Balneario de Mondariz is one of hundreds of “spas” that dotted Galician Spain in their heyday, and we stayed there for just long enough … Read more
The Lamprey
It is Lamprey season in Galicia Spain. If you are a queasy about cuisine, I suggest you stop reading right here and right now and move on to the next post. The lamprey’s actual genealogy is of some question, but basically it is a jawless creature that affixes itself to a fish or other aquatic animals using suckers … Read more
Skiing Courchevel
Courchevel is the name of a ski resort in the French Alps. It is a part of Les Trois Vallées, the largest linked ski area in the world. Courchevel also refers to the towns of Courchevel 1300 (Le Praz), Courchevel 1550, Courchevel 1650 (Moriond), and Courchevel 1850, which are named for their altitudes in meters. That … Read more
Raclette at Hotel Courcheneige
Food at the Hotel Courcheneige is excellent, and we walk away from dinner every night astounded and sated, however, one night we decided to vary from the normal fixed menu and have Raclette. What a fun evening! Raclette is a Swiss dish which is also indigenous to parts of Switzerland. It is also the name … Read more
Miscellaneous thoughts on Courchevel
Winter 2015 The Airport Courchevel’s airport stops you in your tracks. It has a very short and steeply sloped runway, which is only 1722 feet long and has a gradient of 18.5%. The airport approach is through deep valleys, which can only be performed by specially certified pilots. On landing there is merely a very steep … Read more
4 Hours in Geneva
The train from Courcheval, France arrives in Geneva at 2:00 p.m. and we had a 7:00 dinner reservation, followed by a 4:00 am wakeup call for our flight out to Spain. Given paperwork time for check in, and the time it takes to find your brain and make sure it is still in your cranium … Read more
Paris – March 2015
It is hard to believe that I was in India just a mere 5 days ago, it is days like this that I know I am a very lucky gal. I am here in Paris with two very, very dear friends Julie and Kristen, it is a three day stop on our way to skiing … Read more
How to Exhaust yourself in Paris
When you only have three days in Paris, there are just a few things that have to be accomplished, and no matter how many times you have done the Eiffel Tower, I think it is a must for every trip. I am sure that many would say it is cliche, but I just think it … Read more
You want to go where in Paris?
Morning began with perfection and one of the world’s biggest sugar rushes, Chocolate Chaud at Angelina’s. The chocolate comes in a great big pitcher with a side of whip cream for you to add at your discretion. A walk through the Tuileries to catch the 69 bus. These gardens were once the formal gardens of … Read more
Random Thoughts on Paris
A LITTLE SHOPPING We really had absolutely no time for shopping, but I do love the individual neighborhood shops of Paris. I had walked by a small store in the morning that I could tell, simply by looking in, Kristen would love. She was looking for a new bag and found a stunning one in … Read more
India in February 2015
New Delhi A reminder of once again how brutal the flight is from California to New Delhi with an arrival at midnight, but a few hours sleep and a good cup of coffee and the day begins… I think it should be de requeur to spend the first day in Delhi with a rickshaw ride in … Read more
Delhi
Delhi February 2015 It was a long day today, packed with many places, all of which I have seen before. We started at the Indian Gate, and you can see pictures of the gate here. Built in memory to the of the 90,000 Indian soldiers who died during World War I, and those that died in the … Read more
Delhi, Sarnath and Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh
We rose early in Delhi to head to the airport for a flight to Varnasi. Alas, the plane was late in arriving so our day became an exercise in catching up. It was not a problem, it just meant for a long and very exhausting day. We checked into the Taj Ganges Varanasi, and I … Read more
Varanasi at Night
“Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.” Mark Twain Varnasi, also known as Kasha (the City of Light) or Banares, is Hindu’s holiest city. It is the holiest of the seven sacred cities (Sapta Puri) in Hinduism, and Jainism. It … Read more
Varanasi – Bodh Gaya and the Road In Between
Varanasi in the Morning February 2015 Up before dawn to catch the river as it wakes. It was truly amazing to be in an Indian city where it is quiet and the streets, while not deserted, were empty but for the sleeping cow and early worker. Once at the river however, it was the beginning … Read more
Bodh Gaya to Munger
It was an 8-hour drive from Bodh Gaya to Munger to catch the R.V. Bengal Ganga. Along the way we visited Nalanda. Nalanda is an ever expanse of partially excavated and reconstructed brick structures. Once the most prestigious of the Buddhist sites it was founded in the 5th century and was reputed to have over … Read more
The R.V. Bengal Ganga
Our first stop in the morning was to the Bihar School of Yoga. The school was established in 1963 and also serves as an Ashram with about 50% western students. We left with a sack of propaganda leaflets and a Rudraksha seed. The seed is thought to be the eye of Shiva. Some also think … Read more
The R.V. Bengal Ganga and Bateshwarsthan
February 2015Our only stop today was Vikramshila University in the town of Bateshwarsthan. This is the birthplace of Vajrayana Buddhism. Originally established by King Dharampala in the late 8th or 9th century in response to what he saw as a decline in the quality of education at Nalanda. Vikramshila is one of the more important … Read more
The R.V. Bengal Ganga and The Raj Mahal
February 2015 We have been told of the dolphins of the Ganges, and in fact two days ago we sailed through the Vikramshila Ganetic Dolphin Sanctuary, but until today, I have only seen the backs of what I assumed were dolphins. Today we finally saw them jumping out of the water and I got a full … Read more
The R.V Bengal Ganga and The Farakka Barrage
February 2015 Our third night out was the second night of thunder, lightening and rain. It makes for a rather humid day, and this morning it was raining as well. It was a very quiet day of sailing down the Ganges to the Farraka Barrage. We did have one hour off the boat to walk the … Read more
The R.V. Bengal motoring in West Bengal
February 2015 Bengal is proving to be horribly hot and humid, it is lovely on the boat as the breezes blow but we have been off for a few excursions. The first to the town of Baranagar for a visit to the Jor Banla Shiva temple. Constructed between 1716 and 1795 by the tax collector … Read more
Curry and Saris on the R.V. Bengal
February 2015 Our last day on the boat held a cooking class by the chef. It was not so much to get recipes as to get a view into the complicated concept of the Indian kitchen. There is absolutely no prepared food in India, you want spaghetti sauce, you make it from scratch. Every dish … Read more
The R. V. Benghal and Kalna the Temple Town
February 2013 Our only stop today was Kalna or Ambika Kalna called the “Temple Town”, and dedicated to the goddess of power, Maa Kali. After disembarking at the only available ghat, which obviously served as the garbage dump, we had a fun rickshaw ride to the Rajbari temple complex. The complex contains a unique mixture … Read more
Kolkata and Bhubaneswar
Our morning began with disembarkation from the R.V. Bengal in Kolkata (Calcutta). We were given a very brief tour of Kolkata along with two stops, normally this would be highly disappointing to me, but one drive through the city and you know it is not somewhere you want to spend too long. That is not … Read more
Bhubaneswar – The Temple City of India
February 2015 There are over 400 temples, only a fraction of what is thought to have once been 7000 temples, in Bhubaneswar and today we went exploring. Our first stop was a pre-temple structure. The Udaigiri and Khandagiri caves were honeycombed with little retreats for Jain monks in the 1st century BC. The highway cuts through … Read more
Bhubaneswar, Puri and Konarak
February 2015 Our last day in Bhubaneswar, was very long, and yet amazing, sadly, tomorrow we fly to Delhi and home. It began with a short stop at a Rock Edict of Ashoka (Asoka). Ashoka was first introduced to us at Sarnath. Discovered in 1837, this set of Rock Edicts contains eleven out of the well-known … Read more
Indian Wrap Up
February 2015 As this is my second trip to India, albeit to a completely different region, my ending thoughts are far different than my last trip and I thought I would share them. Internet The strange thing about India is the Internet. One thinks of India and thinks technology and especially Internet, but it just … Read more
Cuba in January 2015
Cuba has the most tightly controlled internet in the world. Their internet is characterized by a low number of connections, limited bandwidth, censorship, and high cost. For that reason I posted this first entry prior to leaving and the rest upon my return. Everyone is talking about the opening of negotiations between the US and Cuba, … Read more
Miami/Santa Clara/Cienfuegos
January 16, 2015 The day started at 5:00 in the morning to get to the airport for the Cuban airport hustle. It essentially means that you get to the airport, hand your tour handler your passport, $20 for baggage and your visa. Then you stand and wait. That process took over an hour. However, our … Read more
Cienfuegos/Trinidad
After a buffet breakfast we were bound for Trinidad. Before leaving town we headed to the local Mercado. It was a fairly typical Mercado and yet fun to explore. * Our first stop out of town was a Batey. Batey is a Cuban word for a small community that centers around a sugar plantation and … Read more
Cuba-Topes De Collantes:Parque Codina
We were joined by a local guide Luise. Luise has a degree in journalism but is a fountain of information regarding the flora and fauna of the preserve, as well having a fabulous command of the English language. Our day was spent in the Topas de Collantes Natural Park in the Guamuhaya Mountains. This 200 … Read more
Cuba – Topes/Zapata Peninsula/Bay of Pigs
We began our day in the Zapata Swamp looking for the Emerald Hummingbird and the Bee Hummingbird. This was day two of birding. Steve Stancyk explained to this non-birder, that the group was looking first for endemic birds and secondly birds not found in the U.S. that were new to the group. The endemic birds … Read more
Cuba Playa Larga/Soroa/Vinales
We had the privilege of a lecture from Frank Medina, director of the Zapata Park. This 5000 square kilometer Park is the most important wetland of Cuba. It is recognized by UNESCO as a bio-reserve. Cuba is 1200 Kilometers long and in it you will find 290 natural beaches, 4095 different keys, 4 mountain ranges, … Read more
Cuba – Vinales/Soroa
Today was filled with those moments that just reek of the tourism that no one in this group wants, and yet, we had no choice, so off we went. We visited the Indian Cave, located in the Organos Mountain Range in the Guaniguanico Range. The valley, and a large part of the mountain range, became … Read more
Cuba Soroa/ Terrazas/Havana
The morning began with a tour of a Botanical Garden that specialized in Orchids. Our guide, Aliett Cecilia Diaz, was a botanist and a perfect English speaker. In 1952 Attorney Thomas Felipe Comacho began building a garden for his famous orchid collection. The garden, an addition to the home, built in 1943, took nine (9) … Read more
Cuba – Havana
The older portions of Havana are built on a system of squares. We hopped off the bus at the Malecon and into a small one-block-long historically dedicated street. In 1946 this area was dedicated to a barber Juan Evangelista Valdés Veitía (1836-1918). Veitía worked to help move children from a potential life of crime that … Read more
Cuba – Havana
The morning of Day 9 we started at the largest crafts market, a grouping of storage lockers inside a quonset hut, that was just waiting for a cruise ship to pull in. While it was true that you could find most everything anywhere else, the selection was good and the stop worth making. Lunch … Read more
The Architecture of Cuba
The architecture of Cuba is filled with glorious, and rapidly deteriorating buildings. Each large city in Cuba had its own distinct style but overridingly the architecture of Cuba is the definition of fusion. The 16th and 17th century was dominated by the Spanish, but you also have the Moorish influence from Granada. These all show … Read more
The Cars of Cuba
Wow, I got to see the backseat of a ‘56 Chevy again. – William Madar So you have heard about the great 1950s American cars of Havana, they make a great photo op and are in every promotional and tourist picture of Havana you have ever seen. What you don’t know is the fact that … Read more
A Small Sampling of Art in Cuba
Cienfuegos Our first people to people experience was in Cienfuegos. We had the pleasure of listening to a choral group The Cantores Cienfuegos. We were in a fabulous old vaulted plaster ceiling creating just wonderful acoustics. Have a listen: The performance started with “I wish I Could Die” by Claudio Monteverdi, and included “Oh … Read more
The Buena Vista Social Club
Dancing in Cuba is spontaneous, and absolutely gorgeous. I am convinced the Cubans have an extra gene just for grace and beauty in the dancing world. Music, as well, is on every corner every evening. So what would a tourist visit be without a trip to the Buena Vista Social Club. Our evening began … Read more
Hemingway and Cuba
I had the luxury of being given a tour of the grounds of Hemingway’s Cuban home by Deputy Director Isbel Ferreiro. Hemingway’s love for Cuba started long before he purchased the house, and there are hundreds of books out there for one to read, but this will cover what we learned on our visit. The … Read more
Tobacco Farming in Cuba
One of the best regions for growing tobacco in Cuba is the Pinar del Rio region which is where we were. To understand the agriculture you must understand the end product. There are three parts to a Cuban cigar. The filler, which contains four types of tobacco; Seco, Volado, Ligero and Medio Tiempo. The binder, … Read more
Buddy Bears
Oh Cuba I Bearly Knew Ya….Bill United Buddy Bears is an art project to promote tolerance and understanding among nations, cultures and religions. The 128 bears represent countries recognized by the United Nations. Each bear is created by an artist of its country. They stand “hand in hand” symbolizing the future vision of a peaceful … Read more
8 Hours in Washington D.C.
November 2014 What do you do in Washington D.C. when you have a day and you have already seen “the famous” National Monuments? Well here is my wild and crazy schedule. Some of it is walkable, some of it was done by cab and some of it was done on mass transit. That part is up … Read more
Bat to Bat Days in Louisville, Kentucky
July 2014 Louisville is an interesting town. Everyone knows it for the Kentucky Derby, and I have always wanted to go, not to see the Derby, but to see the fireworks display on the bridges the night before. I found myself in Louisville for the weekend in the middle of June, and yes I suffered … Read more
Where has service gone?
I have been traveling quite a bit in the last 12 months, both inside and outside of the United States. Recently, on a trip to Chicago, I was rather disappointed in the service I received at the Trump Towers in Chicago. This got me thinking, why is service in the Untied States on such a … Read more
Chicago River Cruise
June 2014 There are several river cruises available to take in Chicago, and I highly recommend that you take at least one. While it is a touristy thing to do, it is also a great way to see the city, and can be a great place to cool off if your day gets too hot … Read more
Eataly
43 East Ohio Street Chicago, Illinois This is Eataly and an experience not to be missed! Owned by Mario Batali, Oscar Farinetti, Joe and Lidia Bastianich, Adam and Alex Saper, Eataly is an extravaganza,covering 62,000 square feet, on two floors, that is EVERYTHING Italian. In January 2007, Italian businessman Oscar Farinetti converted a closed vermouth factory in … Read more
Chagall in Chicago
10 South Dearborn Exelon Plaza Chicago Composed of thousands of inlaid chips in over 250 colors, this mosaic is by Marc Chagall. Titled The Four Seasons, it portrays six scenes of Chicago. Chagall maintained, “the seasons represent human life, both physical and spiritual, at its different ages.” The design for this mosaic was created in Chagall’s … Read more
Gillette Castle
67 River Road East Haddam, Connecticut This, truly unique residence was commissioned and designed by William Gillette. Gillette was an actor who is most famous for his portrayal of Sherlock Holmes on stage. Gillette’s estate, called Seventh Sister, was built in 1914 on a 184-acre parcel on top of a chain of hills known as the Seven … Read more
The Blue Garden and the Arthur Curtiss James Estate
School has finished and I am spending a few days with dearest friends Robert and Gail Ornstein. Robert is an architect in Providence, and is working on the restoration of Blue Garden, a Frederick Law Olmsted garden, and as architects who visit with other architects know, I had to see the sight and Robert was … Read more
Newport, Rhode Island
I arrived in Newport today (May 30, 2014) to begin an 8 day course on the History and Architecture of the area. Class does not start until this evening, which gave me the opportunity to grab the first, of what I hope will be many, lobster rolls during this visit. I headed to Flo’s Crab … Read more
Early Newport
We were told when this course began that we would learn the meaning of “Death March” or “Sherman’s March to the Sea”, well it is day one, and yup we learned it right away. First stop was Trinity Church. It is important to begin with a bit of Newport history, which at this point in … Read more
Newport – The Calm before the Storm
So, I have come to the conclusion that the reason these are called death marches isn’t just because we hike for miles and miles, but because our esteemed Professor Richard Guy Wilson, heads straight out without a care in the world. There are thirty of us, and watching him step off the sidewalk into … Read more
So You Want an American Renaissance…
Today was a day of only 3 houses, but what houses they were. All three houses were designed by Richard Morris Hunt. Our first stop was Ochre Court. Built between 1888 and 1893 for Ogden Goelet. These houses are well documented as to the craftspeople. The Ochre House sculptor was Karl Bitter, however, much of … Read more
MM&W meet LaFarge
Our day started at the Channing Memorial Church. (E. Boyden and Sons 1881). William Ellery Channing was the foremost Unitarian preacher in the United States in the early nineteenth century. We were at the church to view the John LaForge stained glass windows. I promised I would tell this story, so here goes. Charles Lewis … Read more
Floors, Ceilings and Walls
Our day began at Slater Mill. The mill is part of the Blackstone River Valley, in Pawtucket, Rhode Island. Pawtucket is the local Indian word for place of falling water. Slater Mill is the last mill standing in the valley. This stone building is actually the Wilkinson Blacksmith shop. When the Englishman Slater convinced the … Read more
Castles, Views and the Servants
After a morning of lectures we headed out to Belcourt Castle. Belcourt is a R. M. Hunt building( 1891-94). The house was built for Oliver Hazzard Perry Belmont, with changes done when he married Alva Vanderbilt once she divorced William. The house has been purchased by Carolyn Rafaelian, founder of Alex and Ani. She is restoring … Read more
Out and About in the Countryside
We began this morning in my favorite genre, Japanese revival. The house is just lovely, as are the couple that own it. They still have a lot of restoration to go, but what they have done is just perfect. The house is called the Knapp house and was designed by Ralph Adams Cram in 1894. Cram … Read more
Arbiters of Taste and Where We Are Today?
We were asked to read a few books before class started. Henry James An International Episode and A House of Mirth by Edith Wharton. I enjoyed An International Episode, but truly had a hard time plodding through A House of Mirth. I came to the conclusion this it was because I really became … Read more
Baku, Azerbaijan
I arrived at 9:30 last night April 29th, 2014 after leaving San Francisco at 3:00 April 28th. Flights like that make one know that people circumnavigating the world before the age of jets must have been a very special breed of human. I woke to this view of the Caspian Sea. * The day began … Read more
Baku, Azerbaijan Day 2
We began the day at the Fountains Square, a public square in downtown Baku. The name derives from the presence of dozens of fountains throughout the square first constructed during Soviet rule of Azerbaijan. The square was completely renovated in 2010. * I instantly fell in love with this carousel, and yes that is an octopus occupying the … Read more
Day 3 in Baku – Still Exploring the City
May 2014 When taking the funicular yesterday we ended up at Martyr’s row. Like so many city’s around the world have, this is an area of war memorials. I waited until today to go into them as there is so much history tied up in this tiny area of grave sites and memorials. At the … Read more
Leaving Azerbaijan
May 2014 I feel like I have just stepped up to the water fountain and haven’t even had a chance to reach for a glass in the cupboard and we are leaving. The name Azerbaijan is Persian and means “protect(or) of Fire”, which is said to have a direct link with Zoroastrianism. But let’s begin with … Read more
Tblisi, Georgia
Tblisi is the capital and the largest city of Georgia. The Mtkvari River runs through the middle of it and it has a population of roughly 1.5 million people. Tblisi was founded in the 5th century by the monarch of Georgia’s ancient precursor Kingdom of Iberia, and has served, with various intervals, as Georgia’s capital for more than a thousand years. Tbilisi is diverse … Read more
The Countryside of Georgia – Dmanisi and Bolnisi
May 2014 We headed out of town to Dmanisi. Dmanisi is a medieval town overlooking the confluence of two rivers where Silk Road caravans used to pass. Early human fossils, originally named Homo georgicus and now considered Homo erectus georgicus, were found at Dmanisi between 1991 and 2005. At 1.8 million years old, they represent the earliest known … Read more
Tblisi to Kutaisi
May 2014 We began our day heading straight out of Tblisi to Kutaisi. Today was an entire day of archaeological sites and a very, very long day in the bus, so not too many photographs. This is an archaeological group and our visiting professor is Gocha Tsetskhladze, who is Georgian, studied at Oxford, was there … Read more
Kutaisi to Bakuriani
After an interesting night at Lali’s Guesthouse our first stop was just down the road at Bagrati Cathedral. Bagrati Cathedral is an interesting study in the rights, wrongs, ups, downs and political meddling’s of historic restoration. Bagrati was/is one of the finest examples of the domed-church architectural style of the medieval period. The church was … Read more
David Gareja Monastery and the East of Georgia
Today we had a 2 and 1/2 hour drive out of Tblisi. Our destination was the David Gareja Monastery complex. There are a few things about this drive. We are heading south east towards the Azerbaijan border. This is classic steppe country, a semi arid desert, that is essentially just wide open country, no … Read more
Tblisi to Yerevan
May 2014 Armenia is much smaller than Georgia, covering only 11,482 square miles. It is a country of only 3.2 million people, and 98% are ethnic Armenians. The capital is Yerevan, and it was established in 782 BC. One-third of the population of Armenia lives in Yerevan. Armenians call themselves Hyastan after Haik, the great … Read more
2 Days in Yerevan, Armenia
Since everything is so far from Yerevan and, like Georgia, there are no hotels outside of the big cities we did not return until very late last night. I had no idea yesterday was going to be as long a day as it was, so here we go with two days – I apologize … Read more
An Archaeological Day – Yerevan to Sisian
Today we drove from Yerevan to Sisian – approximately 130 miles, at 30 MPH, through windy, sometimes gravel roads, for a day that began at 9:00 and ended around 8:30. We stopped at a beautiful monastery, which I will get to, however, today was about three incredibly important archaeological digs. The first was Kamir Blur, … Read more
Sisian, Armenia and its Environs
Mt Ararat We stayed the night in a very interesting hotel in the town of Sisian. This time I was a tad more prepared with shampoos et al, but it is sparse, none-the-less. Today our first stop was Carahunge, This place is called Armenia’s Stonehenge, and I don’t think anyone really knows what … Read more
Our last day in Armenia
We begin our last day heading back to Yerevan. We are taking a slightly different route, but again, due to the state of the roads we are traveling a little over 20 MPH and the day is a very, very long one. Our first stop is a Jewish cemetery in Yeghegis which was rediscovered in … Read more
Dublin – Day One
Dublin February 2014 I am traveling with my friend Mari Zatman. We arrived at 9:00 am, which means for a long, long day to keep from falling victim to jet lag. We took a 6 euro ($8.24) bus from the airport to the neighborhood where our hotel is. Fortunately, it was just a few blocks … Read more
Dublin – Day 2
Tá lá breá ann (It’s a Beautiful Day) Okay that truly is the only thing I can attempt to write in Gaelic, and I would have loved to say it WAS a beautiful day, but that just won’t come up in google. I have heard a lot of languages in my life, and … Read more
The Art of Saint Stephen’s Green
Saint Stephen’s Green is a small park in the city center. The park has a very rich history in itself, but it is also the home to many a great statue. The entry to the park is graced with this statue of Wolfe Tone by Edward Delaney. Wolfe Tone is the father of Irish Republicanism. … Read more
Public Art in Dublin
Like any old European town, Dublin is littered with statues to the famous, and often, the long forgotten. I am only going to focus on the pieces that captured me in an other than, historic fashion. The first is truly a cliche, and the fact that I caught her alone and not covered … Read more
Harps and Shamrocks and some Guinness Thrown in for Good Measure
Shamrocks and Ireland are synonymous. This comes from St. Patrick and the use of the shamrock to represent the Holy Trinity. The name shamrock is derived from the Irish seamróg and simply means “little clover”. However, did you know that it is NOT the symbol of Ireland? That honor goes to the harp. The coat of arms of … Read more
Pubs, Pubs, Pubs
Pubs and Ireland, an unbreakable bond in everyone’s mind. There are approximately 800 pubs in Dublin at this time. However, over 1500 pubs have closed in the last 5 years. So, when a friend tells says “you must go to…. greatest pub in Dublin, we had so much fun…”, be prepared. Some of the pubs … Read more
Rain, Rain, Rain
We have been very fortunate with our weather, but we fear that is about to run out. Ireland has been suffering from storms, the likes of which they have never seen. The average rainfall is approximately 49 inches a year and of course, there is more in the mountainous regions. They have had 120 inches … Read more
Glendalough and Moher and an Aron Sweater for Warmth
These two sites are exactly what one’s minds eye sees when they think Ireland. This would be more the case if photos showed up better. Glendalough About 35 miles outside of Dublin Glendalough comes from the Gaelic Gleann da locha meaning the Glen of two Lakes Glendalough is home to one of the most important … Read more
County Kerry without the Rain
Well, we lucked out today, cloudy and cold, but nowhere near as much rain as we experienced yesterday. We joined the ocean at Kenmare Bay. We drove the Shea Head to the Dingle Bay. Then we gasped at the Great Blasket Island. The Blasket Islands were inhabited until 1953 by a completely Gaelic speaking population. The … Read more
Blarney – Oh My!
Today was a visit to Blarney Castle, so yes, that meant kissing the Blarney Stone. Blarney Castle is a little over a one hour drive through beautiful country from Killarney. We went along side the Darrynasagart Mountains that had a dusting of snow on their tops and continued traveling along the Lee River, which was … Read more
Ogham Stones
February 2014 We had a few moments to kill when we had a flat tire on our bus, so we headed over to University College Cork (UCC). The UCC collection was started in 1861 and the last stone was added in 1945. With the exception of one all are from County Cork. Ogham (pronounced Om) … Read more
India
November/December 2013 There are many books out there about India. These are ones I highly recommend if you are planning traveling in the area. These are not travel books, those are a dime a dozen, these books are about the history, the economy and the culture. Maximum City by Suketu Mehta City of … Read more
Delhi
This morning we once again hired a driver to take us around some sights. We started with the India Gate, which, like all triumphal gates and arches is a memorial to the fallen of war. The interesting thing was the men sitting under the gate making a flower mandala (about 50 X 50 feet), and … Read more
Delhi
Today we joined our tour group. We toured two sites today and had a lecture on the religion/history/architecture of India. A nice overview, and a start to trying to understand 3000 years of intermixing of races, religion and customs all in one country. Humayun’s Tomb National Museum of India It is election time in the state … Read more
Delhi to Agra
Today we drove to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. The drive was extremely interesting. Getting out of Delhi was the usual mad house, and as we got farther and farther away the traffic slowly died down. About an hour out of Delhi we got onto their new expressway, and it was just that. … Read more
The Taj Mahal
Well I promised I would write about it, but I am not sure I can. It is magical, it is regal, it is elegant, and oh by the way, did I mention it is magical. There are no words, and also, pictures do not do it justice. It isn’t real, you feel that it … Read more
Insanity and Tranquility
Our guide, the professor Annapurna Garmiella (you can google her if you are interested, and by the way, she is far, far prettier in person, especially when she smiles). She lives in Southern India, and we got to talking about conditions in India. She mentioned that there are no men over 35 in her … Read more
Jaipur
Our highlight today was a block print/ cotton cloth museum/store. Block print is well known to all of us, but what I found interesting is that a British woman understood how cool Indian prints were during the Beatles, 1960’s, Ravi Shanker period and she revived the dying art of block print fabrics. We … Read more
Elephants
This is wedding season in India. Weddings are not necessarily on a Saturday like we think of them in the US, astrologers are called in and an optimal day is chosen, so it could be any day of the week. However, this is the Season for weddings. We have been seeing elaborate set ups for … Read more
Sweets of India
We spent day 10 in the bus driving to Jaipur, so not much to report. Day 11 we have spent at a fabulous fort in Jaipur, and then we were to head out to the countryside. HOWEVER, today is election day, and the police have closed many of the roads leading in and out of … Read more
Jodhpur to Udaipur
FINALLY had kulfi. Saffron Kulfi to boot. Kulfi is traditionally prepared by evaporating sweetened and flavoured milk via slow cooking, with almost continuous stirring to keep milk from sticking to the bottom of the huge pot. It is stirred until it has been reduced by half, so it is thick and has a higher … Read more
Udaipur
We began our morning with a tuk-tuk ride to a small Hindu temple. We have been in tuk-tuks in most every city, and every time we do they are a different color combination. I don’t know what that means, but it is funny. We circumambulated the temple, just as in the Buddhist temple … Read more
Ellora
November 2013 After our lovely morning in Udaipur we flew to Mumbai. The hotel was a lesser quality as it was near the airport. It was absolutely packed with 20 somethings participating in a karate tournament. The most fascinating were the girls from Iran with their head scarfs and nike shoes and sweats. The … Read more
Food of India
November 2013 Today I decided to address food – I have been hesitating to do this because frankly, most Indian food consists of vegetables, meat if you are not vegan and a brown sauce covering it. Now – I know that sounds insulting, but it isn’t. Let me give a little bit … Read more
Mumbai/Bombay
November 2013 We flew into Mumbai Friday around 10:00 a.m.. We are truly confused as how we got here, as it seems we were taken in a space ship to an entirely different country. Mumbai was once known as Bombay. – Allow me to digress a bit here. India is impossible to discuss … Read more
General Thoughts on India
The very first night that we joined our tour group the leader asked us to say why we had come to India. ” I love my country, don’t get me wrong, but it takes a special type of traveler to come here.” You all know I just did it because I have no … Read more
Very Very Random Thoughts on India
I mentioned that our guide had the most wonderful smile, and a fabulous laugh. THAT is India. Smiles and laughter are everywhere, and they are infectious. I also want to talk about helpfulness. If we do not have Indian colleagues or friends most Americans contact with the Indian culture is through call-centers. We dread them, … Read more
Camino de Santiago
September 2013 September 2013 My dear dear friend Julie Belott asked me a few weeks after Michael passed away if I wanted to hike the Camino de Santiago with her. My first statement was absolutely, my second was What is the Camino de Santiago? These posts, that I wanted to add to my blog are … Read more
Camino de Santiago Hiking Day 1
September 2013 Day 1 – 21 miles or 33.8 kilometers – Way toooo much – and I will explain why eventually No wi-fi. (Wee fee in Spanish) We started in Sarria. The Camino is a lot like walking a charity event. You encounter people through out the day over and over depending on how fast … Read more
Camino de Santiago – Hiking Day 2
September 2013 I started my morning by hiking up a hill to Castromaiar. Castro means stone in Galician, and at the top of the extra 1 kilometer I walked was the ruins of an old Roman encampment. Just amazing how much history is in this countryside, and most of it hidden behind fabulous stone walls … Read more
Camino de Santiago – Hiking Day 3
September 2013 14.1 miles – 29,482 steps – Rain for about 15 minutes – more about that. At the end of our walk yesterday in Coto we finished at a delightful little hotel. The place was owned by a husband and wife. There was a bar set up under a tent outside and that is … Read more
Camino de Santiago – Hiking Day 4
September 2013 14.9 miles and 35,000 steps I promised to give an update to last nights meal, good but nowhere near as good as the home cooked food from the night before. Galician Soup, Veal and Torta de Santiago. The Torta, you see everywhere. Almond flour, almonds, and powdered sugar. I am sure it is … Read more
Camino de Santiago – Last Day of Hiking
September 2013 9.9 miles – 23,500 steps Today was bitter sweet. My feet are so glad we are done, and frankly I could not have done anymore without a few days rest, but none-the-less, it has been a journey worth it all. The last leg is really uneventful. Truth is most of it is through … Read more
Eccentric Mercer and his Moravian Tiles
This is the Mercer Museum in Doylestown, (Bucks County) Pennsylvania. Henry Mercer inherited his money from a maiden aunt and with this money, he started collecting objects of everyday life, convinced that the history of Bucks County was the history of the world. At first, he did all the collecting himself, but over the years … Read more
Magic Gardens
1020 South Street Philadelphia, PA My favorite artists are ones that find their passion and pursue it, with no thought to commercialism, or the sale. The thing that is shunned by the neighbors, until they realize you aren’t a crazy old coot, you have a vision and it is just different. Well, I found one … Read more
Eastern State Penitentiary
2027 Fairmount Avenue Philadelpha, PA I am in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. My habit in any town is to seek the oddball. After an entire morning spent at the Philadelphia Art Museum, I headed out to an oddball spot. Before explaining that however, I must say, that if you have the opportunity to visit the Philadelphia Art … Read more