Dec 162022
 

December 2022

Hill House

Hill House

When I was here just two months ago, I concentrated on the architecture of Alexander Thomson as I had too little time to discover the works of Glasgow’s most famous architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh.  At the time, I knew I was coming back for three days of a whirlwind through Mackintosh.  What I did not count on was the fact that the daylight only lasts until 3:30 and that it would be 18 degrees outside.  More importantly, many of Mackintosh’s works are outside of town, so visiting isn’t as easy as one might imagine.  All that being said, I put a pretty good dent in the quest.

The Box over Hill House

Mackintosh used the most modern material for the exterior of Hill House, concrete.  Sadly, the technology wasn’t yet sufficient to understand that Lime was imperative to the mix.  For this reason, Hill House had become so damp as to be a mere two years away from complete ruin. To protect the Hill House, the National Trust of Scotland constructed the Hill House Box, a protective steel frame structure covered in a chainmail mesh designed to protect the house from the harsh Scotland weather, allowing the walls to dry and prevent further damage.

I had read all about this in a historic preservation magazine and then promptly forgot about it; it was a thrill actually to come upon it and see it in situ.

Living Room of the Hill House. The wingback was not a Mackintosh design; it was the chair Mrs. Blackie liked to sit in at the fireplace.  Over the fireplace is Margaret’s The Sleeping Princess, commissioned by Mrs. Blackie in 1908, four years after the house was completed.

The Hill House is considered to be Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s domestic masterpiece; it was commissioned by Glasgow book publisher Walter Blackie.

Master Bedroom in Hill House with The ‘Skinny Ladies’, embroidered hangings by Margaret Macdonald

Although Mackintosh always gave his wife, Margaret Macdonald, credit, it doesn’t seem that the public does, even to this day.

Remember, you are half if not three-quarters in all my architectural work ….”

“Margaret has genius, I have only talent.”

– Charles Rennie Mackintosh on Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh

Queens Cross Church

The pulpit of Queen’s Cross Church

Queen’s Cross is the only church in the world designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh and then constructed. Commissioned in 1896 by the Free Church, its draw is its absolute simplicity.

The Willow Tea Room

The second floor of the Willow Tea Room on Sauchiehall Street

Mackintosh and Macdonald were kept very busy designing and creating tea houses for Ms. Kate Cranston, a brilliant businesswoman, a lover of the Mackintoshs’ work, and patron extraordinaire.

Two of the tea houses were completely restored by the Willow Tea Room Trust in the early 2000s, and profits go to the continued restoration and maintenance of the Tea Rooms.

The entry door to the Room Deluxe

The Room Deluxe served the creme de la creme of society.  It included aluminum-dust-finished chairs, a glass chandelier, and a gesso work by Margaret that now stands in the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum.

The Room Deluxe with the chairs and mirrors that circled the room

Margaret Macdonald’s Gesso for the Willow Tea Rooms titled O ye, all ye that walk in Willowwood

The Baldacchino in the Front Saloon

Plaster sculpted walls of the Front Saloon (the twinkle lights are not normally there, it is Christmas time)

The Lighthouse

The Lighthouse at 11 Mitchell Lane

The Lighthouse is Scotland’s Centre for Design and Architecture. The building formerly housed The Glasgow Herald, and was the first public commission completed by Mackintosh. Sadly it was still closed “due to covid” while I was there.

Ornamentation high up on the Lighthouse.

The ornamentation on the exterior of the lighthouse demonstrates the light touch of Mackintosh towards such displays.

The Mackintosh Home at The Hunterian

The Hunterian has reassembled the original interiors from the home the Mackintoshes rented, designed, and lived in from 1906 to 1914.

Once the re-assemblaged was accomplished, the home was furnished with the Mackintoshes’ own furniture.

The chairs in the dining room were Mackintosh’s first ‘high-back’ and were based on a design for Miss Cranston’s Tea Rooms.

The Studio Drawing Room was originally two rooms, altered by the Mackintoshes. The stenciled chairs and oval table were part of an ensemble called ‘The Rose Boudoir’ exhibited in Turin in 1902.

The Studio-Drawing Room

I found the black and blue in the guest room to be especially interesting.

The Hunterian is part of the University of Glasgow, which, thanks to a donation by the Mackintosh’s nephew, has a large collection of Mackintosh’s drawings, designs, and watercolors, along with over 40 works by Margaret.

Mackintosh was not highly appreciated in his own lifetime and has really only been brought to the for of architectural fame in the 21st century.  Fortunately, his works have survived and now hold a place of pride in Glasgow.

Nov 022022
 

October 28, 2023

Driving south to Glasgow

A section of the Glenfinnan Viaduct

The Glenfinnan Viaduct is a railway viaduct on the West Highland Line in Glenfinnan, Inverness-shire. It was built between 1897 and 1901 and overlooks the Glenfinnan Monument and the waters of Loch Shiel.

The viaduct is built from mass concrete and has 21 semicircular spans of 50 feet. It is the longest concrete railway bridge in Scotland at 416 yards and was built on a curve of 792 feet.

The concrete used is mass concrete,  unlike reinforced concrete does not contain any metal reinforcement. It is formed by pouring concrete into formwork, resulting in a material very strong in compression but weak in tension

I visited the viaduct on the advice of an Edinburgh cab driver, it wasn’t until I was there that I found out about its connection to Harry Potter. After its appearance in Harry Potter, British Transport Police had to warn people not to walk on the viaduct after a handful of near misses with trains.

The Glenfinnan Monument on the edge of Loch Shiel was erected in 1814 and is dedicated to the soldiers of Loudon’s Highlanders, who fought in the Jacobite rising of 1745.

Castle Stalker

Castle Stalker is a four-story tower house believed to have been built around 1440. The name “Stalker” comes from the Gaelic Stalcaire, meaning “hunter” or “falconer”. The island castle is one of the best preserved medieval tower houses to survive in western Scotland.  I appreciated most that it was “The Castle Aaaaarrrrrrggghhh” in the film Monty Python and the Holy Grail.

Glasgow

This visit I have one day in Glasgow so rather than spend it visiting Charles Rennie Mackintosh (I will be back in December to do that) I decided to just wander, find interesting buildings and look into another well-known architect of Scotland, Alexander “Greek” Thomson.

Alexander Thomson began work in 1834, as a clerk in a lawyer’s office in Glasgow. One of their clients was an architect, Robert Foote, who was impressed by seeing Thomson’s drawings and took him on as an articled apprentice.  After a career made up of eclectic designs he adopted the pure Ionic Greek style that he is best known for.

The Grosvenor Building

Shortly after this was finished it burned down and was rebuilt in 1864.  A second fire ravaged the building in 1901 and it was rebuilt again.  In 1967 a third fire destroyed the interior of the building.  After a major overhaul in 1992, it was converted to offices and now only the facade remains.

Thomson’s adoration of Greek style is quite obvious

Grecian Chambers Building

The Grecian Chambers were completed in 1865 and is considered one of Thomson’s best examples of commercial architecture.  A major fire in 1902 saw the roof rebuilt, but the rest of the structure survived relatively unscathed.

Details of the Grecian Chambers Building

Details of the Grecian Chambers Building

Several more of Thomson’s buildings were covered in scaffolding, I do hope to see them next time.

Glasgow City Council Chambers

The Glasgow City Council Chambers was designed by the Scottish architect William Young and construction began in 1882. The building was inaugurated by Queen Victoria in August 1888 and the first council meeting held within the chambers took place in October 1889

The exterior of the building is in the Beaux-arts style, with a vast range of ornate decoration, used to express the wealth and prosperity of the city. The exterior sculpture is by James Alexander Ewing.

Marble staircase in the Glasgow City Council Chambers Building

When describing this building many say “more marble than the Vatican” it has even been used as a stand-in for the Vatican in films. The staircases are said to be Western Europe’s largest marble staircases and are of Carrera marble.

One of two stunning marble staircases in the Glasgow City Council Building

The marble tile ceiling of the Glasgow City Council Chamber Building

Arch Gates leading to the Glasgow City Council Chambers

The City Halls are part of a market complex designed by John Carrick in 1882, but the grand hall itself was designed by George Murray and opened in 1841. It was the first hall suitable for large gatherings and concerts to be built in the City.

 

The Central Railway

Built by the Caledonian Railway the building opened in stages from 1894.

Central Railway Station interior

 

St Enoch Subway Station

The original St. Enoch Subway Station building housed both a booking office and the headquarters of the original Glasgow District Subway Railway Company. This was (and is) the subway’s most distinctive building. The design is Flemish Renaissance, and late Victorian out of red sandstone. It was designed by James Miller in 1896.

Red Sandstone Buildings of Glasgow

Tron church/theater clock

In Glasgow, the name ‘Trongate’ first appeared around 1560. It referred to the “tron”– the beam with which trading goods were officially weighed when they entered the city walls. For the next three hundred years, this area came to be at the heart of the city’s mercantile and financial activity– hence Merchant City.

A church was originally built on the site in 1529. It is now the Tron Theatre.

The Tron Cherub by Scottish-born artist Kenny Hunter

Atlas Figures at 152 Argyle Street in Glasgow

These figures sit on a building erected in 1906 as the Stewart and MacDonald building.  I wish I could find out more about them as they are truly charming.

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Random fun graffiti

Phyllis Archibald was the sculptor of these figures at 22-24 St Enoch Square. The building dates to 1906.

Duke of Wellington

The statue, located just outside of Glasgow’s Gallery of Modern Art was erected in 1844. Apparently, during the 1980’s, passersby began placing a traffic cone on the Duke’s head. No one is sure who started the tradition, but the bright orange hat has become so common that most have come to accept it as the standard look of the statue.

As Proud As… sits in Princes Square and is by Shona Kinloch – A play on – as proud as a peacock, and yes he is naked.

To end this post I will tie it in with my home town San Francisco.

Just off the Trongate, is this neon sign with “Empire” in reverse. Created by Glaswegian artist Douglas Gordon, it pays homage to Alfred Hitchcock’s 1958 Vertigo. Empire is the name of the hotel where the character played by Kim Novak resides and that is in San Francisco.