Aug 192025
 

August 16, 2025

Newstead Abbey was formerly an Augustinian priory. Converted to a domestic home following the Dissolution of the Monasteries, it is now best known as the ancestral home of Lord Byron.

As with all historic houses in the UK, one needs to attempt to grasp the lineage of the family. Sir John Byron of Colwick in Nottinghamshire was granted Newstead Abbey by Henry VIII of England in 1540 and started its conversion into a country house. He was succeeded by his son Sir John Byron of Clayton Hall. Many additions were made to the original building.

The 13th-century ecclesiastical buildings were largely ruined during the dissolution of the monasteries. It then passed to John Byron, an MP and Royalist commander, who was created a baron in 1643. He died childless in France, and ownership transferred to his brother Richard Byron. Richard’s son William was a minor poet and was succeeded in 1695 by his son William Byron, 4th Baron Byron. Early in the 18th century, the 4th Lord Byron landscaped the gardens extensively and amassed a hugely admired collection of artistic masterpieces.

The Upper Lake near the house was created by damming the waters of the River Leen to create a series of lakes ~ Upper Lake, Garden Lake, Lower Lake & the lakes in the Japanese Gardens.

Sadly, during the ownership of William, 5th Baron Byron, the Abbey suffered a downturn in fortunes. He stripped the Abbey and estate of its artistic treasures, furniture, and even its trees, to quickly raise cash, but it did not help.

The Great Hall

Eventually, the title fell to George Gordon Byron, then aged 10, who became the 6th Baron Byron and later the famous and notorious poet.

Lord Byron’s study

However, the title did not come with any money, so Byron and his mother moved to the nearby town of Southwell and neither lived permanently at Newstead for any extended period.  Byron’s view of the decayed Newstead became one of the romantic ruins, a metaphor for his family’s fall:

Thro’ thy battlements, Newstead, the hollow winds whistle;
Thou, the hall of my fathers, art gone to decay.

Hours of Idleness self-published for friends in 1807.

Eventually, Thomas Wildman, who had been at Harrow School with Byron and was heir to Jamaican plantations, purchased the estate. It is due to Wildman that the home stands as it is, restored and a museum to Lord Byron.

One dismal day in the summer of 1816 (the year without a summer due to a volcanic eruption which darkened the skies across Europe), a group of young people gathered at the Villa Diodati. Lord Byron, Mary and Percy Shelley, and John Polidori read ghost stories to pass the time. They started a competition to see who could write the best supernatural tale. That competition gave us Frankenstein and the Vampyre.

Ada Lovelace, the woman who is considered to have developed the first computer program, was the only legitimate daughter of the poet Lord Byron.

 

A portrait of Byron at the Abbey

Off of a cloister is this 13th-century chapel, formerly the monastic Chapter House.

Thomas Wildman, owner of Newstead from 1817 to 1860, restored the chapel in the mid-19th century. In about 1864, William Webb commissioned Charles Buckler to redecorate it. The Gothic revival stencilled wall painting in the style of William Butterfield dates from this period. These designs are said to be taken from illuminated manuscripts of Henry II’s reign and decorations discovered beneath the ceiling plaster.

Minton Floor tiles of the chapel

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The grounds around the home are a wonderful place to stroll

The back of the house

Sculpture over the door

The crypt is now the Gift Shop:

The Tomb of the 2nd Lord Byron

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Botswain

Byron was dedicated to his Landseer dog, Boatswain.

Botswain

A fragment of the original tomb Byron built for Botswain. Byron himself intended to be buried alongside Boatswain after his own death, but he had sold Newstead before he died.

Botswain’s Tomb

The poem “Epitaph to a Dog” by Byron is on the tomb.

 

We visited Welbeck today, but they will not allow cameras on the property.

Aug 192025
 

August 15, 2025

The current church is the successor to one built in 956 by Oscytel, archbishop of York. Some late eleventh-century fabric survives from this church, but the majority of the building dates from between 1108 and c. 1150, when it was reconstructed in the Romanesque style.

The big, thick Norman Columns

The Norman reconstruction of the church began in 1108, probably as a rebuilding of the Anglo-Saxon church.

The ‘Southwell Tympanum’ is variously dated from the 9th to the 11th century by experts. This massive stone is set in a 12th-century wall, indicating that it was likely brought here from elsewhere.

The  carving shows the Archangel Michael wielding a sword, in combat with a serpent, or dragon. To one side is a damaged figure, presumably King David, pulling at the gaping jaws of a lion. Interestingly, the underside of the stone is carved in a Celtic interlace pattern, which stylistically seems much earlier than the main carvings.

The underside of the lintel

I was enamored with these very modern Stations of the Cross by Jonathan Clark, done in 1999.

Stations of the Cross

 

Eagle Lectern

It is said that this late medieval eagle lectern was discovered at the bottom of a lake in the grounds of Newstead Abbey, the former home of the poet Lord Byron.

15th-century carving in the choir stalls

There were so many wonderful stone faces in the minster that I could not resist. * *

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The Chapter House

The ceiling of the Chapter House

The carvings of plants, animals, and green men found within the Chapter House are known collectively as ‘The Leaves of Southwell’. They are regarded as the best example of 13th-century naturalistic carving in the United Kingdom

I would not have found this little animal pig an acorn under the column capital if it weren’t for the wonderful clergy person who took me around to show me the minster.

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The Green Man

Faces in the Chapter House

One of the clergy wanted to make sure I saw this particular face. It is the one face very close to the ground.  The higher in the minster, the closer to god.

Graves outside

 

Aug 192025
 

August 14, 2025

Belvoir Castle

Belvoir Castle is pronounced beaver castle.

Belvoir Castle is considered a  faux historic castle. A castle was first built on the site immediately after the Norman Conquest of 1066 and has since been rebuilt at least three times. The final building is a Grade I listed mock castle,  dating from the early 19th century.

It is the seat of David Manners, 11th Duke of Rutland, whose direct male ancestor inherited it in 1508.

The castle sits in an estate of almost 15,000 acres.

Named after the 5th Duchess of Rutland, the Elizabeth Saloon is an example of Regency-era architecture

The state room is in the Neo-Classical Roman Style.  There are ninety-one florets in the coffered ceiling, none of them the same. The dining table can seat up to thirty people.

Root and Moss House

The grounds contain many gardens and lots of wild areas to hike.  There is statuary, topiary, a Rose Garden, and a Japanese Woodland. Additionally, in 2013, original Capability Brown designs were discovered in the castle archives, which have are being revitalized.    My favorite was the Root and Moss House.

The root and moss house was built in 1818.

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A fun chair I found walking out of the castle grounds.

Woolsthorpe

Belvoir is proud of its association with the Flower of Kent apple tree.  That is the tree that purportedly gave Isaac Newton the impetus to consider his theory of gravity.

The home with the original apple tree in the foreground

We are all taught that Isaac Newton came up with the law of gravity after seeing an apple fall from a tree in his mother’s garden. Newton himself told the story to several contemporaries, who recorded it for posterity.

At dinner, we all began discussing the word “gravity”.  Some research turned this up from the BBC’s Science Focus: Ever since, Newton has been credited with discovering the law, describing how “All celestial bodies whatsoever have an attraction or gravitating power towards their own centres”. But these words are not Newton’s. They were penned by his scientific rival Robert Hooke in 1670, decades before Newton started telling people the apple story. This has led some historians to suspect Newton deliberately made up the story of the apple to back his claim to priority.

While Hooke is best known today for a dull law about springs, he was one of the most brilliant scientists of his time, and made a host of discoveries. He even showed Newton to be wrong on an esoteric point concerning falling bodies. This did not go down well with the pathologically prickly Newton, who seems to have set about showing he had worked on gravity years before Hooke, leading to his claim about being inspired by the apple back in 1666.

No one doubts that Newton made the biggest contribution to understanding gravity, but sadly for Hooke, Newton wanted to have the credit for everything.

Grimsthorpe Castle

Grimsthorpe Castle sits in a park of rolling pastures, lakes, and woodland landscaped by Capability Brown. While Grimsthorpe is not a castle in the strict sense of the word, it has been the home of the de Eresby family since 1516. The present occupant is Jane Heathcote-Drummond-Willoughby, 28th Baroness Willoughby de Eresby, granddaughter of Nancy Astor, who died at Grimsthorpe in 1964.

Vanbrugh Hall. This is the room you enter into from the front door.

The house is set such that it has very ornate rooms for entertaining and then long, long halls filled with portraits of the family over the years.  The room that caught my eye was the Chinese drawing room, which has a gorgeous plaster ceiling and an 18th-century fan-vaulted oriel window.

The walls are hung with Chinese wallpaper depicting birds amidst bamboo.

I could have sat in this nook of the Chinese drawing room and read for a lifetime.

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The chapel is really lovely, but this carpet with the family crests throughout the year was rather edifying.

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The Grimsthorpe Castle Saracen

Aug 192025
 

August 13, 2025

 

Wollaton House

Wollaton Hall in Nottinghamshire was built between 1580 and 1588 for Sir Francis Willoughby and is believed to be designed by the Elizabethan architect, Robert Smythson.

The floor plan has been said to derive from Serlio’s drawing (in Book III of his Five Books of Architecture) of Giuliano da Majano’s Villa Poggio Reale near Naples of the late 15th century, with elevations derived from Hans Vredeman de Vries.

The house has now been turned into a Natural History Museum, so the only thing one can see of the original is the ornamentation, which is really fun.

The stables now serve as a store and cafe

The gardens are extensive with the obligatory man-made lake.

Keddleston Hall

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Keddleston Hall in Derbyshire was extremely strange to me.  Your first introduction is this stunning, grand hall that is regal.  The house had some exquisite touches, the color theme with robin’s egg blue was so inviting, and yet this was often juxtaposed with over-the-top ostentatiousness of the entertainment rooms, which distracted from the elegance of the home.

Twenty fluted Nottingham alabaster columns with Corinthian capitals support the heavily decorated, high-coved cornice.

 

The marble hall was completed in 1776–77

The current house was commissioned in 1759 by Nathaniel Curzon. The house was designed by the Palladian architects James Paine and Matthew Brettingham and was loosely based on an original plan by Andrea Palladio for the never-built Villa Mocenigo. Curzon put architect Robert Adam in charge of construction after seeing some of his garden temples.

An example of the gorgeous plasterwork

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Gold starts to creep in subtely

The curved wood was grown specifically for this floor

There were several of these lovely marquetry chairs

A gentleman’s reading chair

The robin’s egg blue is so soothing.

The gilting begins to overwhelm

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The gardens and grounds, as they appear today, are largely the concept of Robert Adam.

The Chapel of Keddleston Hall

Now, All Saints Church, this is all that remains of the medieval village of Kedleston, which was demolished in 1759 by Nathaniel Curzon.

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Aug 192025
 

August 12, 2025

Hardwick Hall is a rather awe-inspiring and overwhelming place. It begins with Bess of Hardwick. Four highly profitable marriages, Bess of Hardwick rose to the highest levels of English nobility and became enormously wealthy. The woman was a shrewd businesswoman in her own right, increasing her assets with business interests including mines and glass-making workshops.

Hardwick Hall is a prime example of the Elizabethan prodigy house. The Renaissance-style home was built between 1590 and 1597 for Bess of Hardwick. It was designed by architect Robert Smythson. Hardwick Hall stands as one of the earliest examples of the English interpretation of this style, which emerged gradually from the Italian Renaissance.

The ES stands for Elizabeth of Shrewsbury. Bess was the Countess of Shrewsbury, the name of her last husband. This motif surrounds the roofline of all of the towers.

Bess of Hardwick was the wealthiest woman in England after Queen Elizabeth I, and her house was conceived to be a conspicuous statement of her wealth and power. The windows are large and numerous at a time when glass was a luxury, leading to the saying, “Hardwick Hall, more glass than wall.

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Arms of Elizabeth Hardwick displayed on the parapet above the main entrance of Hardwick Hall. The two stags are those of the Cavendish family. That was from her second husband, twice-widowed Sir William Cavendish.

When you enter the house and the great hall, the crest looms over.

 

A plaster frieze in the High Chamber is that of Queen Elizabeth I. In 1603, James VI, King of Scots, also became James I, King of England. He amended the Royal Arms in England to include elements from the Scottish Royal Coat of Arms. The Scottish Unicorn replaced the Dragon Supporter on the right (Sinister Supporter).

The house is spectacular, and pictures do not do it justice, simply due to the scale of the rooms.  However, there were a handful of things that truly stood out.

Important documents and deeds for the estate were kept in the Muniment room. The room features barrel-vaulted ceilings to provide additional fire protection and security.  It was Bess’s son William who added the muniment drawers.

These plaster friezes, depicting hunting scenes, took my breath away.

The centrepiece of the frieze is a representation of the Goddess Diana surrounded by her court, with three stags protecting her from wild animals.

Most experts believe that the panel is a homage to Queen Elizabeth I, and that the stags, copied from the Cavendish coat of arms, express allegiance to the monarch shown by Bess, who would have loved the Queen to visit Hardwick. Elizabeth never came.

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The Sea Dog Table

The Sea Dog Table dates from around 1570 or 1575 and was made in Paris, following a design by Jacques Androuet du Cerceau. It is regarded as one of the most important examples of 16th-century furniture in Britain and one of the most important pieces in the house.

The table is mainly made of inlaid walnut, with “gilding, fruitwood, tulipwood, and marble” also used. The creatures have dog’s heads, human breasts, front legs with paws, but the lower body of a fish. The base rests on tortoises or turtles.

The Gideon Tapestries

In the winter of 1592, Bess went on a shopping spree in London. Among her purchases was the Gideon set of tapestries purchased from the estate of Sir Christopher Hatton for the sum of £326 15s 9d.  Five pounds was deducted because Bess had to change the Hatton coat of arms to her own.

There are thirteen tapestries, which form one of the more significant collections of textiles in the world. They have hung in the Long Gallery since the end of the 16th century.

They recently underwent a 24-year-long conservation project, using traditional sewing and stitching techniques tapestries portray the Old Testament story of Gideon

Called by God to deliver Israel from the Midianites, Gideon led an elite army of 300 of the finest Israelite warriors against them and was victorious. He was offered a crown but declined the kingship, declaring that only God could rule the people of Israel.

The tapestries were made at Oudenaarde in Belgium by an unknown weaver.

Noble Women

In another room are two large appliqué wall hangings depicting the ‘Noble Women of the Ancient World’.

Bess commissioned a set of five large wall hangings featuring noble women from history, myth, and legend.  Four survive, and two are on display in this room.  These two panels depict Penelope and Lucretia.

They were made from repurposed church vestments acquired during the English Reformation.  Two of Bes’s husbands were involved in the dissolution of the monasteries, so they would have had access to these expensive materials

Hardwick Old Hall

Hardwick Old Hall dates from the 16th century.

A picture of New Hardwick Hall taken from the top floor of Old Hardwick Hall

Bess of Hardwick was born in the Old Hall, and when she separated from her third husband, the Earl of Shrewsbury, in 1584, she returned to her childhood home. She began to expand the house, at the same time as she was planning to build the much grander ‘new’ Hall a short distance away.

The end for Hardwick Old Hall came when the Cavendish family built Chatsworth House. Chatsworth became the family seat, so the hall was no longer needed. Stone was removed for building supplies, and the hall was left to decay.

The friezes in Old Hardwick Hall are over 400 years old. Innovative for their time, the panels provided prototypes for features later incorporated into Hardwick New Hall.  They were restored in 2022.

*Hardwick Hall stands as one of my more favorite historic houses in this area.

 

Aug 192025
 

August 12, 2025

Bolsover Castle

The Peverel family built the original castle in the 12th century. It became Crown property in 1155 when William Peverel the Younger died. When a group of barons led by King Henry II’s sons revolted against the King’s rule, Henry spent £116 on building at the castles of Bolsover. The castle was returned to crown control in 1223.

 

Bolsover Castle

Bolsover Castle was then granted to Francis Talbot, 5th Earl of Shrewsbury, by Edward VI in 1553. By 1883, the castle was uninhabited, and in 1945 it was given to the nation by William Cavendish-Bentinck, 7th Duke of Portland.

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A fascinating figure holding up the balcony at Balsover Castle

Looking down on the company town from Balsover Castle

This village near Bolsover Castle was known as ‘the Model Village’. It was created by the paternalistic Bolsover colliery company in the 1890s to house the colliery (coal workers) workforce. The plans were created by Percy Houghton and Emerson Muschamp Bainbridge, the chairman of the company in 1888, and revised by Sir Richard Webster. Building on the homes began in 1891, and by late 1892, fifty of the two hundred houses were occupied.

Colliery Houses

Sutter Scarsdale

This once stately Georgian house is another lesson in the insanity of trying to trace British families. The original Hall formed part of a Saxon estate owned by Wulfric Spott, who died in 1002 and left the estate to Burton-on-Trent Abbey. In the Domesday Book, the estate was owned by Roger de Poitou. In 1225, the Lordship of Sutton-in-the-Dale had been given by King Henry III to Peter de Hareston, but by 1401 it had been purchased by John Leke of Gotham.

The existing structure is believed to be the fourth or fifth built on the site. In 1724, Nicholas Leke, 4th Earl of Scarsdale, commissioned the building by architect Francis Smith, using parts of the existing structure.

 

Aug 192025
 

August 2025

Susan and I began this week traveling with a dear old friend of mine, James. It is hard to explain how vast James’ knowledge is when it comes to history, so I will let his bio with a publishing company speak to it. James Hargrave has a PhD in Economic History from the University of Durham and a Diploma in Archive Administration from the University of Wales (Aberystwyth). He specialised for 25 years in cataloguing large collections of papers accumulated by dukes, prime ministers, businesses, etc., but his historical interests stretch from antiquity to railway finance and equipment, Central and Eastern Europe, and the British Empire-Commonwealth, including comparisons between colonisations and empires ancient and modern.

This trip began with our catching a train from Oxford to Derby to meet James.  It took me some time to realize Derby is pronounced Darby and that I was going to be continually confused for most of the week over American versus UK English.  Susan, having lived here for ten years, is having no such problems.

Derby

The Derby Cathedral

Derby, in Derbyshire, is in the East Midlands of England. The original Derby Cathedral was probably built in about 943 by the Anglo-Saxon King Edmund I,  of which no trace survives.  The church has seen many iterations, but as it stands today, the tower is original from the 1530s; the rest of the church was rebuilt to a Neo-Classical design in 1725 by the architect James Gibbs.

A really lovely footbridge in Derby

The Old Silk Mill is now a pub, but speaks to the industrial history of Derbyshire.

Office of Architect Watson Fothergill

Watson Fothergill was prolific from 1864 to around 1912, designing over 100 buildings. He primarily designed in the Gothic Revival and vernacular Old English styles.  His exuberantly ornamented office was a way of showing off his talents.

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Watson Fothergill’s design for the Express Newspaper, where Graham Greene once worked

Walking around Derby

* Derby was never bombed during the wars, so much of its architecture survives, spanning many eras.
* Grotesques are a major part of most every Victorian and medieval building; for some reason, dogs are prolific in Derbyshire.

Town of Ilam

The town of Ilam is in Stratfordshire. It is a town with chalet-style houses and a matching schoolhouse. This concept was started in the 1800s by Jesse Watts-Russell, who inherited a fortune on the death of his father, a wealthy soap manufacturer. What stopped us dead in our tracks when driving through was this tower.

The Ilam Cross

This is the Mary Watts-Russell Memorial Cross and ornate gothic-style obelisk of local limestone in the style of an Eleanor Cross, sitting smack in the middle of the road into town.

Haddon Hall

Haddon Hall

Haddon Hall is a former seat of the Dukes of Rutland and is the home of Lord Edward Manners.  This is the first of many houses that require a PhD in English Royalty progression to understand. The Vernon family acquired it through a 12th-century marriage. Four centuries later, in 1563, Dorothy Vernon, the daughter and heiress of Sir George Vernon, married John Manners. Their grandson, also John Manners, inherited the Earldom in 1641 from a distant cousin. His son, another John Manners, was made 1st Duke of Rutland in 1703. In the 20th century, another John Manners, 9th Duke of Rutland, made a life’s work of restoring the hall.

A wood round stairway

Heraldry found in a dining room.

One of the grandest rooms in the house, with a stunning plaster ceiling

The peacock and boar are the family crest.

These ancient windows are not askew due to age, but were intentionally placed that way so that when the sun shines through them, there appears to be stars dancing on the floor.

While the house was lovely, it was the chapel that took my breath away. The Chapel St John Nicholas was originally Norman, with later medieval additions. The chapel is noted for its extensive medieval wall paintings featuring scenes from the Bible,

Drawings barely legible on the walls of the chapel

These are frescoes secco, a technique of painting dry plaster. During the Reformation in the 16th century, the frescoes were plastered over and not discovered until the early 20th century.

The Reredos is also breathtaking.

The reredos is Nottingham Alabaster from the 15th century. Nottingham Alabaster refers to an English sculpture industry, mainly of relatively small religious carvings. This raredos shows the Passion and Resurrection of Christ. The 9th Duke of Rutland found these in Reykjavik, Iceland. – The frame was copied and made locally, and below each scene is a Latin inscription taken from a similar frame now in the National Museum of Iceland.

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Chatsworth House

I visited Chatsworth House in October of 2022 and stuck to visiting the garden.  This time, I ventured into the house. I don’t even know what to say.  It is so over the top as to not find nor possibly deserve words. I will admit that I didn’t take many pictures; I was simply visually overloaded.

An interior courtyard of Chatsworth House

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The house has been in the Cavendish family’s possession since 1549. Bess of Hardwick began to build the new Chatsworth House in 1553. William Cavendish, 4th Earl of Devonshire, started rebuilding the house in 1687.  The house has a rich history of hosting royalty, which is exactly why it is so over the top.

St Peter’s Church in Edensor

What is delightful near Chatsworth is the community of Edensor. Much of the village is privately owned by the Cavendish family. *

All of that was JUST day one with James.