May 302023
 

May 2023

A beautiful day for being on the water in Boston’s Common

The Boston Common is a 50-acre public park in downtown Boston, a perfect place to spend a lovely sunny day.

Central Burying Ground

On one end of the Common is the Central Burying Ground. The cemetery was established in 1756 and is located on Boylston Street between Tremont Street and Charles Street.

Central Burying Ground

Famous burials there include Gilbert Stuart, painter of the famed portraits of George Washington and Martha Washington, and the composer William Billings, who wrote the famous colonial hymn “Chester.” Also buried there are Samuel Sprague and his son, Charles Sprague, one of America’s earliest poets. Samuel Sprague was a participant in the Boston Tea Party and fought in the American Revolutionary War.

The grave of Chow  Manderien.

Another lesser-known burial is that of Chow Manderien in 1798. Chow’s burial is the first known documentation of a Chinese person in the United States.

In 1794, Chow sailed on The Union, a ship commanded by John Boit, Jr. as his servant. Onomastically, his name should be Zhou Libei, but “Chow Manderien” was a colloquial attempt to spell out his name.

“Here lies interred the body of Chow Manderien, a native of China, aged 19 years, whose death was occasioned on the 11th of Sept 1798 by a fall from the masthead of the ship Mike of Boston. This stone erected to his memory by his affectionate master John Boit Jr.”

King Chapel Burial Ground

Gravesite of Joseph Tapping

The King’s Chapel Burial Ground was established in 1630 on land that had formerly belonged to colonist Isaac Johnson. Johnson is believed to be the first person interred there, following—according to legend—his request to be buried in his pumpkin patch. Between 1630 and 1660, King’s Chapel Burial Ground was the only cemetery in Boston. Notable occupants include Mary Chilton, the first woman to step off the Mayflower; Paul Revere’s compatriot, William Dawes; Ralph Waldo Emerson’s father, William Emerson; Hezekiah Usher, the colonies’ first publisher; and the first governor of Massachusetts, John Winthrop.

Joseph Tapping’s headstone in Kings Chapel is one of the most intricately carved of its day, depicting father time and the skeletal figure of death snuffing a lit candle.

Granary Burying Ground

The Granary Burying Ground is Boston’s third-oldest cemetery, founded in 1660 and located on Tremont Street. It is the final resting place for many notable people, including Paul Revere, the five victims of the Boston Massacre, and three signers of the Declaration of Independence: Samuel Adams, John Hancock, and Robert Treat Paine. The cemetery has 2,345 grave markers, but historians estimate that as many as 5,000 people are buried in it.

Christopher Seider

Christopher Seider (or Snider) (1758 – February 22, 1770) is considered to be the first American killed in the American Revolution. He was 11 years old when he was shot and killed by customs officer Ebenezer Richardson in Boston on February 22, 1770. His funeral became a major political event, heightening tensions that erupted into the Boston Massacre on March 5, 1770.

Samuel Adams (buried nearby) arranged for the funeral, which was attended by more than 2,000 people.

Public Art around Boston

Public Art at Boston’s Hay Market


This art installation is by Megs Harries. It was originally installed in 1976 as part of the Bicentennial Commission at the cost of $10,000.  The piece derives from the Roman floor mosaic art form known as asarotos, which creates the illusion of debris from a banquet littering the floor.  During the Big Dig, the installation was removed and relocated to the Boston Science Museum.  It was reinstalled in 2006 at Haymarket with updated components for the 21st century.



Bostons Steaming Kettle was created in 1873 by the copper manufacturing company Hicks & Badger as a sign for the Oriental Tea Company.  It has hung in a variety of locations before its present location at the Court Street Starbucks. It became a tourist attraction after an 1875 contest to guess the kettle’s capacity, which is 227 gallons, two quarts, one pint, and three gills (three teacups), which is etched on the side of the landmark. The kettle is also iconic for spilling out steam.



New England Holocaust Memorial

The New England Holocaust Memorial

The Memorial was founded by Stephan Ross, a Holocaust survivor, and erected in 1995. It consists of six glass towers engraved on the outside walls with groups of numbers representing the six million Jews murdered in the Holocaust. Inscribed on the inner walls are quotes from survivors of each camp. Underneath the towers, steam rises up through metal grates from a dark floor with twinkling lights on it.


Each tower symbolizes a different major extermination camp (Majdanek, Chełmno, Sobibor, Treblinka, Bełżec, and Auschwitz-Birkenau), as well as menorah candles, the six million Jews murdered in the Holocaust (one million per tower), and the six years that the mass extermination took place, 1939-1945. Each tower consists of twenty-four individual panels of glass. Twenty-two of the panels are inscribed with seven-digit numbers, and two of the panels are inscribed with messages. In total, there are 132 panels from the six towers inscribed with numbers.

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“First they came …”  is the poetic form of a 1946 post-war confessional prose by the German Lutheran pastor Martin Niemöller (1892–1984).

Khalil Gibran

 

I would not have even noticed this piece of artwork in Copley Square if a friend had not told me of a book she is writing about Mary Haskell Minis, a benefactor of Gibran.

This Memorial depicts the Lebanese-born poet, philosopher, and painter. Dedicated in 1977, the piece was designed by Gibran’s nephew and is in part a testament to the McKim building, The Boston Public Library, across the street, where Gibran educated himself as a young immigrant living with his mother and siblings in Boston’s South End. “It was in my heart to help a little because I was helped much,” was excerpted from a letter that accompanied Gibran’s bequest to the Boston Public Library.

Edgar Allen Poe

Poe Returning to Boston was created by the American sculptor Stefanie Rocknak. The statue is located at the corner of Boylston and Charles Streets at Edgar Allan Poe Square.

The statue depicts Poe walking, facing away from the Boston Common. His figure is accompanied by an oversized flying raven.

From the back, you can see that his suitcase lid has fallen open, leaving a “paper trail” of literary works embedded in the sidewalk behind him. The public unveiling of the piece was on October 5, 2014.

Poe was born in 1809 to his roving actor parents in Boston, but only lived in the city for about ten months total, including about five months as a baby and another five when he returned to Boston at the age of 18 in 1827.

Poe wrote about his feelings for Boston in The Broadway Journal on Nov. 1, 1845:

We like Boston. We were born there–and perhaps it is just as well not to mention that we are heartily ashamed of the fact. The Bostonians are very well in their way. Their hotels are bad. Their pumpkin pies are delicious. Their poetry is not so good. Their common is no common thing–and the duck-pond might answer–if its answer could be heard for the frogs.

The Salada Tea Doors

Salada Tea Doors

In 1917 the 10-story masonry building at 330 Stuart Street, designed by Densmore and LeClear, housed the headquarters of the Salada Tea Company in the United States. Salada operated there for more than 40 years, and the building also served as a cultural center that held a significant collection of Asian art.

The Salada Company’s founder, Peter C. Larkin, commissioned the doors in 1926 to celebrate the cultivation of tea in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) as well as the tea trade. Mr.Larkin invented the modern tea bag by putting loose tea into foil pouches for greater freshness and a consistent flavor. He named the company after a Ceylonese tea garden.

The 12-foot-high doorway has two distinct parts. The bronze doors, which weigh approximately two tons, hold ten panels in bas-relief, five on each side. They depict every step of the process of growing, harvesting, and shipping tea in Ceylon. Two vertical rows of small figures in high relief flank the panels. Designs of tea leaves and tea berries decorate the frames between the panels.

 

May 302023
 

May 2023

Trinity Church and HH Richardson

Trinity Church

Our group has a tendency to drift toward H.H. Richardson buildings, and that is a good thing.  Boston is full of Richardson projects.

Henry Hobson Richardson (1838 – 1886) was an American architect best known for his work in a style that became known as Richardsonian Romanesque. Along with Louis Sullivan and Frank Lloyd Wright, Richardson is one of “the recognized trinity of American architecture.”

The exterior of the apse

Richardson’s most acclaimed early work is Trinity Church. The interior of the church is one of the leading examples of the arts and crafts aesthetic in the United States.

Trinity Church is the birthplace and archetype of the Richardsonian Romanesque style, characterized by a clay roof, polychromy, rough stone, heavy arches, and a massive tower. This style was soon adopted for a number of public buildings across the United States. The stone used was Dedham Granite.

Window Tracery

This stone window tracery came to Boston from the Church of St. Botolph in Boston, Lincolnshire, England.

It was removed by the authorities of St. Botolph’s church to make room for a modern organ chamber. An American visitor saw the stones piled up outside the church and requested that they become part of a church in America. He mentioned Trinity Church, “the last built and noblest,” as a potential home. In 1879 Canon Blenkin, the Vicar of St. Botolph’s, sent the tracery stones to Boston, where they were installed in the wall of the cloister “as a precious memorial of the church of our fathers.”

The original Puritans who came to settle in Boston in 1630 came from Boston in Lincolnshire, which is about 100 miles north of London. They named their new community after their old home in England. The name Boston is itself a smearing of St. Botolph’s town or St. Botolph’s stone.

The Sanctuary

The Pulpit

Ceiling of Trinity Church

Stained Glass window, Christ in Majesty, 1883, by John La Frage

Ornamentation on the exterior of the Parish House

Ornamentation on a nearby home designed by HH Richardson

Other Architecture of Boston


Boston, like so many cities of the 1800s, suffered devastating fires.  Brick became a very common building material after these fires in many cities across the country, including Boston.

The Armory of the First Corps of Cadets

The Armory was planned, constructed, and financed by the First Corps of Cadets, a Massachusetts military organization established in 1741. The Armory is the only remaining High Victorian armory in the City of Boston and a designated National Historic Landmark.

The four-story granite structure was designed by William Gibbons Preston and built beginning in 1891 and finished in 1897. Due to political unrest during the period, the building was designed to withstand mob violence. Its most prominent feature is its six-story tower.

In the late 1960s, the University of Massachusetts Boston leased the building and converted it into the university’s first library.

The tower, formerly known as the John Hancock, is New England’s tallest building at 790 feet, a distinction it has held since the Henry Cobb-designed spire was finished in 1976.

Isabella Stewart Gardner House and Museum

Much to my disappointment, a $118 million steel, glass, and copper-clad Renzo Piano expansion has been added to the Gardner Museum.  The addition, sadly, detracts immensely from the feel of the house.  The atrium is now closed to visitors, and the entrance to and exit from the museum feel sterile and hurried.

The 1901 structure was left almost entirely intact. A new wing now connects to the original museum through a glass passageway. The new four-story building houses visitor services,  a new 300-seat music hall,  a triple-height gallery for temporary exhibitions, a new lobby space, offices, and conservation facilities. Adjacent is a  second, smaller structure with a sloping glass roof that houses a greenhouse and apartments for artists-in-residence.

While I have no objection to the expansion, it has, in my opinion, radically taken away from the experience.

May 282023
 

May 2023

Gropius House

We spent the day in Concord area looking at several very interesting homes, all of which I will get to in another post.  However, I am a fiend of architecture from the Bauhaus school, and to see the home of the master himself was such a joy.

The stairway to the Gropius’ daughter’s room. Manon

Walter Adolph Georg Gropius (May 1883 – July 1969) was a German-American architect and founder of the Bauhaus School. Gropius, along with Alvar Aalto, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, Le Corbusier, and Frank Lloyd Wright, are widely regarded as the pioneering masters of modernist architecture. Gropius was one of the founders of Bauhaus in Weimar (1919) and a leading architect of the International Style.

Looking back into the entry hall

The study of both Walter and his wife Ise.

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Penguin Donkey Bookcase by Egon Riss is designed to hold Penguin Books.

Walking into the living room with the Long Chair designed by Marcel Breuer for Isokon along with a Marcel Breuer Laccio Side End Table

“Butterfly” Stool by Sori Yanagi accompanied by nesting tables by Marcel Breuer

 

A small Henri Moore sculpture on the shelf

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The Dining room with Marcel Breuer’s MG5 chair, Designed in the 1950s

The kitchen was long and narrow, functional but minimal

The Kitchen

A closet on the first floor as you enter the house, but behind the stairwell, so nicely situated

The use of vertical slats in the hallway

The stairway to the second floor and the bedrooms

A bedside table, one of the personal pieces the Gropius’ were able to ship out of Nazi Germany.

An Afghani weaving over the bed

Only fifteen of the Gull bookstands were originally produced before the Second World War halted production in 1939 due to shortages in plywood. Designed as the smaller sibling to Egon Riss’s Penguin Donkey.  The Gull was bought back into production in 2020.

The screened porch at the back of the house

I could go on and on about the family, the house and the history of Bauhaus architecture, but the pictures speak for themselves.

May 282023
 

May 2023

 

The interior courtyard of the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem.

PEM is one of the oldest continuously operating museums in the United States and holds one of the major collections of Asian art in the US. Its total holdings include about 1.3 million pieces, as well as twenty-two historic buildings. It is worth a visit!

The museum was remodeled by Safdie Architects and re-opened in 2019.  The collection is divine and not to be belittled, but I was excited to see the Yin Yu Tang House, an early 19th-century Chinese house from Anhui Province that had been disassembled in its original village and reconstructed on the museum grounds.

Inside the central courtyard of the Yin Yu Tang House

The second floor of the Yin Yu Tang House

Yin Yu Tang House

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Connecting some of the multiple buildings of the Peabody Essex Museum

May 282023
 

May 2023

A day spent outside of Boston in Gloucester was a quick but interesting day.

The Sleeper-McCann House – Beauport

This home, designed by its owner, Henry Sleeper, beginnings date to 1907.  Like many, he was never happy and altered and modified throughout his life.

The home was originally built as a modest Arts and Crafts-style cottage. But the resulting 40 rooms turned into a warren, with alcoves, odd-angled rafters, and linking stairways. Wherever your eye lands, you will see some of the more than 10,000 objects and furnishings that Sleeper acquired, with an obvious fondness for salvaged architectural artifacts.

The China Trade Room

The China Trade Moom features pagoda-inspired gold-curtained balconies at either end, a marble fireplace, and this magnificent antique 1780s wallpaper (originally ordered by Robert Morris, a signer of the Declaration of Independence) depicting the rice and porcelain industries of China, which Sleeper found tucked away in an attic in Marblehead.

The fireplace array in the Octagon Room

The  “Octagon Room.”  and its aubergine walls set off Sleeper’s amethyst and ruby-red glassware and red antique toleware that he brought home from France. The room is chock-a-block full of uses of the number eight, which are demonstrated in the number of hooked rugs, chairs, sides of the table, scores in the ceiling, and even facets on the door knobs.  He wrote of the room to Isabella Stuart Gardner:  “Of course, I have all the details visualized and am enjoying it accordingly.”

The Octagon Room

In the two-story Book Tower (1911) is this Revolutionary War flag.

One of the many ships models throughout the house

Sleeper didn’t start collecting glass until 1917. The amber-glass window in the central hall was the last reconfiguration of the house, in around 1929.

A double rocking chair I found delightful

A wood-carved bracket at the front door

Windows abound, looking out upon Sleeper’s eclectic natural garden

The unusual roof line and chimneys of the house

Cape Ann Museum

Cassie the Sea Serpent

Cassie sits at the entrance to the Cape Ann Museum. The museum’s collection focuses on the artists and art colonies of Cape Ann, including the Rocky Neck Art Colony and the Folly Cove Designers. The museum’s collection also features objects from Gloucester’s fishing and maritime history and its granite quarrying history.

Cassie was developed by the museum to engage children and is based on the Gloucester sea serpent. The Glouster sea serpent is a legendary creature reportedly seen around and off the coast of Gloucester, Massachusetts, and Cape Ann. The heyday of sightings began in August 1817 and continued into 1818–19. Described as a massive serpent-like creature with humps along its back, the Gloucester Sea Serpent has been the subject of numerous sightings and tales of encounters by fishermen and sailors. The earliest alleged sighting of such a creature off Cape Ann was recorded in 1638 by John Josselyn. Occasional sightings continued over the centuries and into the 20th century.

Glouster City Hall

Gloucester City Hall

Having suffered a small fire, the City Hall was undergoing some renovation.  However, we were able to get in and see the WPA murals.

Just one of the collection of WPA murals in Gloucester City Hall

The murals were all painted by Charles Allan Winter.  In the lobby is “City Council in Session” approximately 7 feet high by 11 feet wide) was painted in 1939.