Oct 032016
 

October 2, 2016

Amasya, TurkeyOur last day in Central Anatolia was spent in Amasya. Amasya is on the short list to become a world heritage sight for Mount Harşena and the rock-tombs of the Pontic Kings. This centuries old city lines the Yeşilırmak River.

Walls of the Ancient Fortified Town

Walls of the Ancient Fortified Town

You can still see parts of the fortified ancient city of Amasya on the hills. It has a long history as a wealthy provincial capital, producing kings and princes, artists, scientists, poets and thinkers. This includes the kings of Pontus, Strabo the geographer, (a Greek geographer, philosopher, and historian who lived during the transitional period of the Roman Republic into the Roman Empire), and many generations of the Ottoman imperial dynasty.

Statues of important Ottomans line the river walk

Statues of important Ottomans line the river walk

During the early Ottoman rule, it was customary for young Ottoman princes to be sent to Amasya to govern and gain experience. Amasya was also the birthplace of the Ottoman sultans Murad I and Selim I, making the town very important in terms of Ottoman history.

Amasya, TurkeyTraditional Ottoman houses near the Yeşilirmak and the other main historical buildings are being restored and many are now cafes, restaurants, and hotels.

Waterwheels of AmasyaThere are five bridges crossing the river and these interesting water wheels, once used to lift water out of the river for irrigation, scattered near the pedestrian bridge.

The Sultan Beyazit Mosque and Theological College.

The Sultan Beyazit Mosque and Theological College.

The Sultan Beyazit mosque, built in 1486, is covered in scaffolding, and from what I have read; it has been in this state for quite a while. The garden around the mosque is truly lovely with trees, they say, are as old as the mosque.

Paintings on the interior roof of the adulation station. These paintings were in several mosques around Amasya

Paintings on the interior roof of the ablution area. These paintings were in several mosques around Amasya

This little mosque, tucked away deep in the city, is the Yürgüç Pasa mosque, it was built in 1428.

This little mosque, tucked away deep in the city, is the Yürgüç Pasa mosque, it was built in 1428.

The interior of the Blue Seminary with its Seljuk architecture

The interior of the Blue Seminary with its Seljuk architecture

The Blue Seminary is a theological complex dating from 1267; it is typical of Seljuk architecture. It takes its name from the blue tiles found in small quantities both inside and outside, what is now a mosque. Within the complex is the 1272 tomb of the Seljuk governor and founder of the seminary Emir Torumtay.

The interior blue tile of the Blue Seminary

The interior blue tile of the Blue Seminary

The exterior blue tile of the Blue Seminary

The exterior blue tile of the Blue Seminary

Tombs inside the Blue Seminary

Tombs inside the Blue Seminary

The tombs of the Pontic Kings are best seen from down below while in town, they date from 333 BC to 44 BC.

Pontic King Tombs of Amasya

Pontic King Tombs of Amasya

These five big tombs are the archaeological remains of the Kingdom of Pontos, and nearly all that remains of the Kingdom.

Amasya was the capital of the dynasty of the Mithridatids of Pontos for about a century, between about 281 and 180 BC. The five kings MithridatesI, II and III, Ariorbarzanes and Pharnakes I all ruled here.

The Burmali Minare Mosque ("Burmali Minare" means Spiral Minaret in Turkish) was built between 1237 and 1247 by the Seljuks.

The Burmali Minare Mosque (“Burmali Minare” means Spiral Minaret in Turkish) was built between 1237 and 1247 by the Seljuks.

An archway in the old market area of Amasya

An archway in the old market area of Amasya

As phone booths around the world disappear, these two in Amasya were very fun to trip across.

phone in Amasya

Amasya takes but a few hours to explore.  We began our drive to the Black Sea around noon, some sights along the way:

Logging trucks were everywhere.

Logging trucks were everywhere.

We drove along the The Kizilirmak for a goodly portion of our drive. The Kizilirmak (Turkish for “Red River”), is the longest river entirely within Turkey. It is a source of hydroelectric power and is not used for navigation.

Red River of TurkeyThe Hittites called it the Maraššantiya. It formed the western boundary of Hatti, the core land of the Hittite empire. In Classical Antiquity, it was the boundary between Asia Minor and the rest of Asia, and also the boundary between Pontos and Paphlagonia. As the site of the Battle of Halys or Battle of the Eclipse on May 28, 585 BC, it was the border between Lydia to the west and Media to the east until Croesus of Lydia crossed it to attack Cyrus the Great in 547 BC.

The Red RiverThe river water is used to grow rice and in some areas water buffalo are kept, but it is very, very sparsely populated making for a relaxing and stunning drive.

The signs along the road amused me greatly.

The signs along the road amused me greatly. Sadly, a few miles past this sign we came across an Anatolyan wild boar that had been killed by a car, making us realize you don’t take these signs lightly.

Turkish road signs

 

It is difficult to explain how vast the center of Anatolya is.  You travel for miles and miles without seeing a thing but farmland or open land.  Every once in a while you will trip across a very, very large town, that seems to have no purpose other than a population center.

large Turkish Town

The total land area of Turkey is slightly larger than the state of Texas with a population of around 80 million.

Oct 022016
 

October 1, 2016

The reason to drive nearly 200 miles across Central Anatolia is to visit the center of the Hittite civilization.

Overlooking Boğakale

Overlooking Boğakale

No one is certain about the origins of the Hittites, or for that matter, how they got to Anatolia, but it is clear they arrived sometime before the 2nd millennium BC. The Hittites were the first powerful empire to arise in Anatolia and its capital was Hattuşuş, now called Boğakale.

The Lion's Gate was on the south-west wall of the city fortifications.  It has two parabola shaped stones that once held a pair of wooden doors.  The lions, like all of the gates at this site, have been removed to museums and these are reproductions.

The Lion’s Gate was on the south-west wall of the city fortifications. It has two parabola shaped stones that once held a pair of wooden doors. The lions, like all of the gates at this site, have been removed to museums and these are reproductions.

The Hittite language was written in both cuneiform script and hieroglyphics and is though to be the oldest of the Indo-European languages, it was only deciphered in 1915.

This Lion Basin stood at the entry to a temple in the Lower City

This Lion Basin stood at the entry to a temple in the Lower City

The Hittites were an advanced civilization with knowledge of forging iron. This made them a powerful military force.

This is called Hieroglyphic Chamber #2. On the left side is the King as a warrior with a bow, spear and sword.  On the back wall is an unnamed god in a long cloak with a winged sun disc above his head.  He carries a sign similar to the Egyptian Ank, meaning life, in his hand.  It the inscription on the right wall the king reports various conquests.

This is called Hieroglyphic Chamber #2. On the left side is the King as a warrior with a bow, spear and sword. On the back wall is an unnamed god in a long cloak with a winged sun disc above his head. He carries a sign similar to the Egyptian Ank, meaning life, in his hand. It the inscription you see in the photo above, on the right wall, the king reports various conquests.

Their cuneiform texts reveal a complex legal system and a fair treatment of criminals and prisoners.

King Anitta conquered a large part of central Anatolia and increased the kingdom. However, this also led to decentralization and the empire splintered into city states. It was reunited under King Huzziya. One of King Huzziya’s successors Labarna Hattushili I is considered to be the founder of the Old Hittite Empires. One of Huttushili I’s grandsons finally managed to conquer Babylon around 1530 with the empire reaching its peak around 1260 BC when Hattushili III and Ramses II (ruler of Egypt) signed an agreement of peace and friendship.

At the top of the city is this long tunnel of large boulders. It is an absolute feat of engineering.

At the top of the city is this long tunnel of large boulders. It is an absolute feat of engineering.

It is thought that this treaty was signed after what might have been the largest chariot-battle ever fought. It is said that some 5000 chariots were involved in a battle between Ramses II and the soldiers of Hattusili II.

Atop the tunnel is the Sphinx Gate, these are reproductions of the originals.

Atop the tunnel is the Sphinx Gate, these are reproductions of the originals.

The treaty, written in both Egyptian hieroglyphics and in Akkadian, using cuneiform script, declares that both peoples and their gods want peace.

This is the Kings Gate. The approach to the gate from the outside was by way of a ramp that was protected by a separate outer wall and bastion.

This is the Kings Gate. The approach to the gate from the outside was by way of a ramp that was protected by a separate outer wall and bastion.

It may be the world’s first known peace treat. In fact a copy hangs at the entrance to the Security Council chamber at United Nations headquarters, while the original is in the Istanbul Archeological Museum.

It is not known exactly what caused the fall of the Hittite Empire but written texts discuss famine and a rise of the power of Syria.

The next people to live in this area were the Phrygians from around 500 – 900 BC. The Phrygians fell to the Cimmerians in the 7th century BC until Alexander the Great conquered Anatolia in 330 BC.

Yazilikaya

Just up the road from Boğakale is a sacred spot of Hattusha. There are 2 temples with carved reliefs worked into the mountain.

The hidden entry to Tomb #2

The hidden entry to Tomb #2

In the first are rows of figures in relief, gods on one side and goddesses on the other. On the main façade is the meeting of the Tempest God and his wife the Sun Goddess plus their children. On another wall is King Tuthalia I.

Tombs

King

King Tuthalia

Tombs

The Passage of Tomb #1 with carvings on both sides.

The Passage of Tomb #1 with carvings on both sides.

dsc_7534

Tomb #1

TombsIn the second temple are the Twelve Gods and the Sword King Nergal carved into the rocks. In this temple you will also find Sharruma, the Protector God.

Alacahöyük

After a long drive through barren countryside you arrive at Alacahöyük. You enter through the Sphinx gate to a very large city. The items of note in this town are the “Alacahöyük Bronze Age King Graves”.

These sun disks are encircled with bullhorns, the sacred animal of the period and apparently the served a cultic function.  They were found throughout the tombs

These sun disks are encircled with bullhorns, the sacred animal of the period and apparently they served a cultic function. They were found throughout the tombs

These thirteen “Royal Tombs” once contained the dead in the fetal position facing south. They were richly adorned with gold fibulae, diadems, and belt buckles and repoussé gold-leaf figures. The graves are deep rectangular burial structures, containing a floor of pebbles, walls of rubble masonry, and a roof constructed of wooden planks. The wooden planks were adorned with the heads and legs of sacrificed sheep. These wooden planks have since been replaced with plexiglass.

The museum at Alacahöyük is excellent. Many of the items found throughout these sites are at the museum in the town of Corem, we just ran out of time to visit it.

This is the Sphinx gate of

This is the Sphinx gate of Alacahöyük

Carved cunieiforms/ heiroglyphics at

Carved cunieiforms/ heiroglyphics at Alacahöyük

Inside the Royal Tombs

Inside the Royal Tombs

Here is a video of Boğakale to give you an idea of its vastness and its remotness.