Dec 022018
 

Nalanda/Rajgir
November 2018

In the Black Buddha Temple is an ancient large black Buddha in the Dhamma Chakra Mudra position.  The Dhamma Chakra Mudra is also called the Wheel of Law depicting Buddha’s first sermon after his enlightenment

The Black Buddha in 1895. Photo from the British Library.

The Black Buddha in 1895. Photo from the British Library.

This huge stone image from the Gupta period was lost to Buddhism, in the interim the Hindi’s worshiped it, calling it Telia Bhairav, or Telyia Baba: oil accepting deity.

The Brahmin locals, who claim its ownership as a deity, fought a bitter legal battle with the Archeological Survey of India (ASI) and finally won complete control over the site, this is why despite it being close to Temple 14 in the Nalanda complex it sits outside of the walls of Nalanda.

When discovered (date unknown) it must have already been a prominent statue and frequently visited as it was cited by several archeologists.

The Black Buddha today

The Black Buddha today

Alexander Cunningham’s 1861 report for the Archeological Survey of India (ASI) suggests that the Buddha image was being worshiped by the locals even then. He called it the Baithak Bhairav

Sir Alexander Cunningham  ( January 1814 –  November 1893) was a British army engineer with the Bengal Engineer Group who later took an interest in the history and archaeology of India. In 1861 he was appointed to the newly created position of the archaeological surveyor to the government of India, and he founded and organized what later became the Archaeological Survey of India. He wrote numerous books and monographs and made extensive collections of artifacts. Some of his collections were lost, but most of the gold and silver coins and a group of Buddhist sculptures and jewelry were bought by the British Museum in 1894.

It was also cited by A. M. Broadley as Telia Bhandar and Francis Buchanan who recorded it as Baituk Bairobh

Alexander Meyrick Broadley ( July 1847 – April 1916), also known as Broadley Pasha, was a British barrister and author.   After taking the examination to enter the Indian Civil Service, Broadley went to India in 1869 where he became Assistant Magistrate and Collector of Patna. In 1872 he conducted a survey of the ruins of  Nalanda and formed a collection of sculptures from the region, going on to establish a museum for the collection.

Francis Buchanan was a Scottish physician who made significant contributions as a geographer, zoologist, and botanist while living in India.

Black BuddhaToday the site has become popular with a group of Thai pilgrims who have implicit faith in the image. They purchase these small bottles of oil to anoint the Buddha with. They pour the oil over the Buddha and then capture some of it in an empty bottle to then cover one of the smaller “gift shop” Black Buddha statues in the oil to take home.

The Black Buddha

I am torn about how I feel about this situation.  The Black Buddha is a truly important historic piece of art, and the constant pushing of plastic bottles against its surface cannot be doing it any good. I also do not believe in putting deities such as this, that hold such importance to worshippers in museums where fees are charged.

The road to the Black Buddha is new, paid for by the government, so obviously, the incessant oiling by Thai worshippers will continue for some time.

Feb 212015
 

It was an 8-hour drive from Bodh Gaya to Munger to catch the R.V. Bengal Ganga. Along the way we visited Nalanda. Nalanda is an ever expanse of partially excavated and reconstructed brick structures. Once the most prestigious of the Buddhist sites it was founded in the 5th century and was reputed to have over 5000 international students and teachers, along with a library of over nine million manuscripts. It was built on a site Buddha was supposed to have stayed. The Turks destroyed Nalanda in 1199.

Nalandia

 

stupas

These are votive stupas. All temples are surrounded by these in various sizes. They often contained tablets bearing the Buddhist creeds.

Munger is a fascinating town, not because of what we saw but because of its history. The East India Company came in and forced the area to plant indigo and opium in place of food crops, after many years the Indians began to uprise.  These uprisings, along with millions of other insults by the British, eventually led to the independence movement.

DSC_8985

We picked up another American scholar along the way, Dr. Debra Diamond, and the lessons that are being imparted are phenomenal. There are millions of texts, yet un-translated, in India showing scholars how little we actually know and understand about what occurred during the times of the Buddha and afterwards. The discussion of the practices of Buddhists monks, and their process to enlightenment may be so very different than what is out their in common lore.

Pomegranates

Our evening cocktail hour was accompanied by a full lecture by Dr. Diamond on Yoga. This lecture was a detailed rundown on the history of Yoga and the enormous (and frankly that isn’t even a strong enough word,) gaps there are in the education of the subject of Yoga when it made it to the western world.

R.V. Bengal

Our boat is a beautiful ship, built in Burma.