Odds and Ends As I Leave Tokyo

 Japan, Tokyo
Jan 032024
 

January 2024

Chiyoda City, Tokyo

The bottom of Tori Row at Hie Shrine

The top of Tori Row Hie Shrine

All shrines are packed to the gills during New Year’s, and Hie is no different.  The shrine is close to the New Otani Hotel, and because of its 90 Tori gates, I love just stopping by and walking down the stairs.

Asakusa Tokyo

I remember these from my first visit to Tokyo. I am amazed they still reside in the neighborhood.  These are two of the five heroes of Kawatake Mokuami’s Kabuki play “Shiranami Gonin Otoko.”

The Karioki play centers on a band of five thieves, based on real thieves and criminals of the Edo period in Osaka: Karigane Bunshichi, An no Heibei, Gokuin Sen’emon, Kaminari Shōkurō, and Hotei Ichiemon.

On the Hōzōmon of Senso-ji Temple is a pair of ōwaraji, or giant straw sandals. They are 14.5 feet tall and weigh 1,100 pounds.

The sandals are a larger version of a type of sandal made from straw ropes. These waraji were woven by hand in the traditional manner and made by the town council of Tate’oka-aramachi, Murayama in Yamagata Prefecture.

It is said that the sandals represent the powers of Niō, the Herculean guardians of Buddhist temples. Their presence keeps demons at bay by convincing them that the temple is home to an invincible giant. The sandals were first introduced to Sensō-ji in 1941 and since then have been replaced by a new pair almost every ten years. The current pair was put in place in 2018, and reportedly took around 900 workers over a month to make them.

All over Japan, you will find foreigners renting and then dressing in Kimonos and visiting the more touristy areas. This girl, with her incongruous shoes, had me laughing.

I LOVE Onigiri, but I think it would take a football team to devour these onigiri shaped like pandas.

Shibuya

Myth of Tomorrow

In 2008, this mural by Taro Okamoto was recovered and moved to the Shibuya Station. ‘Myth of Tomorrow’ depicts the bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki as an eruption of vibrant colors, centering around a skeletal figure caught in the blast.

The artist started this work in 1967 when asked to paint a mural for a new hotel in Mexico City. He completed the giant mural in September 1969. The hotel went bankrupt, and the piece was never displayed. The mural then went missing for decades.

In 2003, Toshiko Okamoto found it in a Mexican suburb. Millions of dollars later in restoration, it found a final home.

Hachiko

It is hard to believe that anyone does not know the story of Hachiko, but if you don’t, Hachiko is the name of an Akita dog who was born in 1923 and died in 1935.

Hachiko belonged to a Tokyo University professor in the 1920’s. Born in 1923, he would walk his master Hidesaburo Ueno daily to Shibuya Station and wait for his return there every evening. In May 1925, the professor died of apoplexy at his workplace. Hachiko waited for him faithfully every evening at the station for the next decade until his own death.

This statue was erected in 1934 near Shibuya station.

Toyosu Tokyo

I am not a big fan of immersive art.  Not that I have anything against it. It is just that it has devolved into a money-making Instagram concept.  But one of the hot tickets in Tokyo is Team Lab Planet, so I went.  This was the most intriguing of all of the immersive experiences.  The balls wobbled, and each made a different sound, so if enough people got them moving, they could create an eerie-sounding concert.

Chuo City Tokyo

This giant reflexology unit is truly an only-in-Japan kind of thing.  It is called  Kenko Kimichi (Health Promenade)

The sign reads: This promenade is composed of several kinds of patterns arranged by sizes, shapes, height, and roughness of stones and is properly designed to touch 36 reflection points on the soles of the feet.

It is January 4th, and as I prepare to leave and look around at the coming of winter, it is hard for me to believe that when I arrived in Kyoto, I was greeted with the most amazing fall foliage.  I have loved watching the season change over the last seven weeks.

 

Aoyama Cemetery

 Japan, Tokyo
Jan 032024
 

January  2024

It is my last full day in Japan, and I spent it at the Aoyama Cemetary.  If you know me, you are thinking, of course you did.

This is a wonderful walk of small Japanese gardens and history.

Aoyama was originally a burial site exclusively for the Japanese nobility at the beginning of the Meiji Period. Its name is derived from the Aoyama family of the Gujo clan. But by 1874, it had been transformed into Japan’s first public cemetery.

This exquisite shrine is actually just slightly larger than the size of a dollhouse, and yet the details are just perfect.

There are many important culturally and historically important Japanese citizens buried in Aoyama, I found but a few.

 

The grave of Toshimichi Okubo

Toshimichi Okubo (born Sept. 26, 1830- May 14, 1878) was one of the Three Great Nobles. He was a politician and one of the samurai leaders who, in 1868, overthrew the Tokugawa family and restored the government of the emperor. After the Meiji Restoration, he spent much of his career helping to establish Japan as a progressive nation. As a result of his autocratic style of government, he fell out of favor with much of Japan and was ultimately assassinated in 1878.

Around 8:30 a.m., six assassins attacked the carriage that Toshimimichi Okubo was riding in.  They cut the legs of the horses with their swords, then stabbed the driver, Taro Nakamura, killing him. To the right of Toshimichi Okuba’s grave is that of Taro Nakamura and at least one of the horses.

Grave of Komuro Jutaro

Komura Jutarō (November 5, 1855-November 26, 1911) was a Japanese diplomat of the Meiji period and negotiator of the Anglo-Japanese Alliance. After graduating from Harvard Law School, Komura returned to Japan and entered the Japanese Ministry of Justice (1880), later transferring to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

The large stone is the Monument to Field Marshal Marquis Nozu Michitsura (1840 – 1908), a Japanese field marshal and leading figure in the early Imperial Japanese Army.

Grave of Hisashige Tanaka

Hisashige Tinakea was the founder of  Toshiba. He was an active inventor from the late Edo period to the Meiji period and was called “Karakuri Giemon”.

Takashi Kitsuragawa, Principal designer of the Mt Fuji Radar System

Grave of Mokichi Saito (1882 – 1953), a Japanese poet, essayist, and psychiatrist.

Ueno Hidesaburo owner of Hajicho

The grave of Hachiko in the corner of his owner, Ueno Hidesaburo’s burial plot.

Other interesting sightings.

At one of the entrances is a large panel of interned family pets.

 

I was trying to discover why I saw this round shape so often, only to discover that this is the grave of Viscount Tokitada Fujinami,  a court noble adopted by Noritada Fujinami around 1863. He was head of the Imperial Household Ministry. He later served as a full-time adviser to the Imperial Court and an imperial member of the House of Peers. He died in 1926.

There are large areas that are so old it is impossible to determine if someone is buried there or if they are simply sacred spaces. These foo dogs lined one of those types of spaces.

What I presume is a child’s gravesite.

A final resting statement I can relate to. Scribo Ergo Sum

An interesting ornament

During the Meiji Period,  Aoyama was the main location for many foreigners’ graves.

Henry Willard Denison

Henry Willard Denison graduated from Columbia University and went to George Washington University to study law in 1868, but he did not graduate before he left for Japan in 1869.  Denison was a legal advisor to the Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs until his death in 1914.

Water buckets and brushes for taking care of flowers and washing the graves.

It is the New Year and there was an abundance of people washing graves and placing flowers. It was a lovely day to visit Aoyama.

Japanese Fences

 Japan
Jan 032024
 

December 2023

I love the uniqueness of Japanese fences. Japanese-style fences, or “Sukiya-zukuri,” are rooted in traditional Japanese architecture—their origins date to the 16th century, when they were used to create boundaries and provide privacy. Over time, Japanese-style fences have become an essential element in Japanese landscape design.

The fences above and below are called the yotsume-gaki, literally meaning “four-eyed fence,” likely in reference to the four spaces formed in each vertical row by the crossing bamboo canes (although variations of the yotsume-gaki exist in which there are fewer “eyes” in each vertical row).

Of course, like most wood products, there are no historic fences to date this type of construction. However, if one digs into Japanese art, one will find depictions of the yotsume-gaki back to the Heian Period (794-1185). Around the Momoyama Period (1573-1615), these fences became part of the gardens surrounding the tea houses and tea ceremonies.  This type of fencing is probably the most common found in Japan today.

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This is a Kōetsuji fence (gaki)  A bamboo fence whose original is at Kōetsuji temple in Kyoto. It is made with a lattice of woven bamboo, and has a long tamabuchi (bamboo) coping which curves gently and touches the ground on one side.

While not as elegant as the curved ones, I spotted this in Nijo-jo Castle.

Koetsu-gaki without the tamabuchi curve.

A teppo gaki (rifle fence)  is made of round bamboo stalks, or bundles of branches of bush clover or thin bamboo, as vertical members, resembling barrels of rifles (teppō), hence its name.

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These are some of my favorite fences, but I will admit the placement of this particular one is rather odd.  These are called Sode Gaki, which is a general term for a short fence projecting from a building near the veranda of its tearoom or shoin. It is used as a screen, as a partition, or as part of the garden scenery. This particular one is a Korean-style screen fence or Kōrai gaki.

Another oddly placed Korai gaki.

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Lining the walks of the Bamboo forest is this shiba gaki or Brushwood Fence. Using undergrowth, twigs, and small branches as tateko (the vertical member) to make fences, shiba gaki were probably one of the earliest fence types constructed in Japan.

Another shiba gaki at the Hamarikyu Garden in Tokyo

A fence in Hama-rikyu Garden

I do not know if this is a typical bamboo fence, but it is perfect to keep anyone or anything from getting to the tree it is protecting.

Kenninji gaki

This bamboo fence is named after one at Kenninji temple in Kyoto. This fence uses closely placed slats of quarter-split bamboo as vertical members, held in place with horizontal bamboo bars and tied with the hemp palm rope. A coping called tamabuchi is attached to the top.

 

Komayose

These low wooden fences, called Komayose, served as a border between private land and the road. Because “Koma” means “horse,” one possible explanation for this structure is that it was used to tie the leads of horses and cows, while another speculation states that it was a piece of equipment to protect houses from horses and cows breaking in.

Inu Yari Fencing

When I first came upon this type of fencing, I thought it was a modern way to keep people from parking on your porch, but I was wrong. Inu yarai are used for keeping dogs from peeing on the exterior wall. It is also said to be used to keep away eavesdroppers on rainy days.

A tamagaki encloses the shrine’s innermost sanctum, setting it off from the outside world and marking a border between the sacred and the profane. Some shrines feature more than one tamagaki, which in its earliest form was a living hedge surrounded by a brushwood fence.

These types of gates are so ubiquitous that they are sold as “black bamboo gates” and can be found anywhere in the world.

These are just a few of the hundreds of types of artistic fencing in Japan. This is what I was able to see and photograph as the art is sadly dying out.

Tokyo Architecture that has caught my eye.

 Japan
Jan 032024
 

November 2023

I love Tokyo for its rich history and cutting-edge modern architecture, and it is all jumbled together.

Fuji Broadcasting Center

Much of the outré architecture of Tokyo can be found on Odaiba. An artificial island, Odaiba was initially built in the 1850s for defensive purposes. The land was dramatically expanded during the late 20th century as a seaport district and was redeveloped in the 1990s into a major commercial, residential, and leisure area.

The Fuji Broadcasting Center was designed by architect Kenzo Tange from Tange Associates.

The Hachitama Spherical Observation Room, is located on the 25th floor with amazing views of Tokyo. The sphere weighs 1,350 tons and has an off-center center of mass.

Tokyo Train Station

The Tokyo train station is vast and has a rather interesting architectural history. The plan to construct Tokyo Station was conceived during the Meiji Period (1868-1912). It was officially commissioned in 1890.

The design fell to German engineers Franz Baltzer and Hermann Rumschöttel, who were inspired by the traditional architectural style of Japan. However, Tatsuno Kingo, a Japanese architect to whom the final design of the station is attributed to, insisted upon incorporating a Western architectural style. The red brick facade and the domes inside the station came to be known as the “Tatsuno Renaissance” style.

The station opened in 1914. Ten years after its opening, the Great Kantō earthquake with a magnitude of 7.9 struck. The station suffered minimal damage and became a shelter for those who had lost their homes. During World War II, the station suffered substantial damage. While much of the original facade was kept intact after the war, the domes were destroyed. However, in 2007 a large-scale reconstruction project brought the station back to its original form.

The Asakusa Cultural and Tourism Center

Asakusa Culture and Tourism Center

The Asakusa Cultural and Tourism Center was built in 2012 with the architect firm being Kengo Kuma & Associates.

Hermes in the Ginza District

Hermes in the Ginza District

Maison Hermès is by Renzo Piano.  The design inspiration was that of a ‘magic lantern’ lighting up Ginza, similar to those that traditionally hung from the doors of Japanese houses.  The facade is made of bespoke glass blocks.  The building has a unique design regarding earthquakes. It is organized around a large central mast from which the slabs are suspended. The central line of pillars is embedded in the foundation, whereas the innermost one rests on a viscoelastic material that absorbs the tremors. The whole building can move in the case of an earthquake.

Bottega Veneta in Ginza

Designed by Nacása & Partners, the facade, which grabbed me at night, echoes an intrecciato weave, and is made from 900 “lunar” metal panels.

Asahi

I fell in love with this building when I first saw it 15 years ago.  The Asahi Beer Hall is located on the east bank of the Sumida River in Tokyo and was designed by Philippe Starck.  The building noted for the Asahi Flame said to represent both the ‘burning heart of Asahi beer’ and a frothy head. The flame sits atop a building in the shape of a beer glass.  The 360-ton golden flame was made by shipbuilders using submarine construction techniques. As an aside, it is also called the “poo building” and the flame a “giant golden turd”.

The Royal Residence – Fukiage Palace

The Imperial Palace is home to the Emperor of Japan. It is a vast complex and serves not only as a place of residence but also as an important site for state occasions and royal ceremonies. The Imperial Palace and its gardens are well known around the world, but you must be on a tour to get to see the Royal Residence. Or you can join the thousands upon thousands of people that line up to visit on January 2nd when the Emperor offers New Year’s Greetings (sadly canceled this year due to the earthquake) or on February 23rd, the day of Emperor Naruhito’s birthday.  You never get inside of any building, but at least I got to see the exterior.

The modern residence, designed by the renowned Japanese architect Shōzō Uchii, was completed in 1993. Shōzō Uchii (February 20, 1933 – August 3, 2002) was a Japanese architect and academic authority on the works of Frank Lloyd Wright.  Which is interesting since FLW  was an internationally known collector of Japanese woodblock prints, and Japan influenced his work greatly.

Tokyo residence of Korea’s Crown Prince Yi Un

I could see this intriguing building from my window of the New Otani Hotel, so I went and explored.  It has a fascinating history. It was once the Tokyo residence of Korea’s Crown Prince Yi Un*. The 27,000-square-foot residence was built in 1930 on 7.5 acres of garden. Facing high property taxes imposed on wealthy landowners following WWII, the property was sold to the Seibu Railway Company and converted into a 51-room hotel.  The home became the ‘Prince’ Hotel and opened in 1955. Over time, the area grew, and the hotel was surrounded by high-rises that sprang up during the rapid redevelopment in the years following World War II. It is now an annex of a mega new hotel called the Tokyo Prince.

*Lieutenant General Prince Imperial Yeong, the Yi Un, Crown Prince Uimin (October 20, 1897 – May 1, 1970), was the 28th Head of the Korean Imperial House, an Imperial Japanese Army general, and the last crown prince of Korea. His son, also named Yi Un, was born in Kitashirakawa Palace in 1931 and, coincidentally, passed away there in 2005.

Tokyo is filled with architecturally intriguing buildings, and the city constantly adds new ones.

Beauty and Uniqueness Everywhere You Look

 Japan
Jan 032024
 

December 2023

There are always things when you travel that catch your eye.

Palm trees in Nijo-jo Castle

In the garden at Nijo-jo Castle, there are sotetsu (Sago palm) trees. These trees were the offerings from a Daimyo (regional feudal lord) for the Tokugawa Shogunate in the early Edo period.

Quite obviously, they would never last the winters of Kyoto, so they are covered with sheets of rice straw called komo until the end of March.

The underpinnings of the Nightengale Floor in Nijo-jo Castle.

I read about Nightengale Floors many years ago and have always been fascinated by them.  I have walked on several, but this time, a guide showed me the underpinnings when I toured Nijo-jo Castle. Nijo-jo Castle is known for having perhaps the best example of the Japanese Nightingale flooring system.  Invented during the Edo Period, they served as an alarm system.

Nightingale floors, or “uguisubari,” which translates as “bush warbler guard watch,” are designed in such a way as to make a sound similar to a bird’s chirping when somebody starts walking on it. With just the lightest step, the floorboards bend enough to cause the flooring nails to rub against a clamp, producing a clearly audible sound. The songbird-like creaking is not very loud but is certainly enough to shatter a night-time silence, warning any guard that danger is approaching.

Roofs of Japan

Shibi

This shibi is Shachi or Shachihoko or “Killer Whale.” It is an imaginary creature with the head of a tiger and the body of a fish.
They were used throughout Japan as roof ornaments to provide protection against fire.

Shibi is an ornamental roof ornament used on the ridgepole, or oonume , of the tiled roof of a temple or palace. Historically, shibi were very popular in China and during the Japanese Asuka and Hakuhou periods. Their popularity began to wane by the end of the Kamakura period (1185–1333)

 

Onigawara

Onigawara literally means ogre or demon(oni) and roof tile(kawara).Because they generally depict a Japanese ogre (oni) or a fearsome beast. Prior to the Heian period, they were usually ornamented with floral designs.

The Pheonix is atop an onigawara.

An onigawara in Uji

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Onigawara are a kind of ornamental roof tile observed at both ends of the roof of typical Japanese architecture. They are installed as a talisman to ward off evil spirits and as decoration. They also play an important role in preventing rainwater from entering the building.

It’s said that kawara, the roof tile itself, was introduced to Japan from Korea in 588, along with Buddhism. Four kawara experts were dispatched and used kawara for the first time in the construction of the Asuka-dera Temple. The oldest onigawara was excavated from the ruins of Horyu-ji Temple in Nara Prefecture, and it has a lotus flower.

Shōki

Shōki are Chinese folk gods believed to be stronger than demons. Evidence that the deity reached Japan by at least the late Heian Period (794 to 1185) is from an image of Shōki on a scroll at the Nara National Museum dated to the reign of Emperor Goshirakawa (1127-1192).  Shōki’s popularity peaked in Japan during the Edo period when people began to hang images of Shōki outside their houses to ward off evil spirits during the Boys’ Day festival. From what I gather, you really only see them around Kyoto.

The Streets of Japan

A Poké Lid I found in a park in Kyoto.

Fifteen years ago, my late husband started taking pictures of utility covers, in particular, manhole covers, in Japan after noticing that every city had its own design, and they were gorgeous.  Since then, manhole cover spotting has become quite a thing in Japan, with books, games, and trading cards.

Poké Lids (or pokéfuta) are Pokémon-themed (and licensed) manhole covers. The aim has been to encourage tourists to visit and explore lesser-known areas of Japan and discover the Pokémon artwork there. There are over 240 Poké Lids from Kyushu to Hokkaido regions, and each design is unique.

I have quite a few pictures myself, but the Poké Lids were new to me.

 

Pine trees are just different in Japan. Japanese-style pine trees are pruned to have a specific appearance. A Japanese-styled pine should have branches shaped to look like half-clouds. They should appear rounded towards the top, whereas the underside is flatter.

There are basically three different pruning methods when it comes to Japanese-style pine tree pruning. They are each reserved for different times of the year to maintain and preserve the style. The first one to note is Momiage pruning. This is what you see being done here. One only uses one’s hands as tools during the Momiage pruning process. Momiage is the method of removing needles – specifically, only the old needles.

Nishikigoi: Japanese Koi Fish

The name “Nishikigoi” (living jewels) goes back 200 years to a village in Japan.

The first Nishikigoi was produced by farmers breeding black carp (or Magoi) as a food source to survive the winter. The result was a vibrantly colored carp.

The carp in this picture is in a pond at the Imperial Palace. It is a Hirenaga, and its origin is thanks to Emperor Akihito. In 1962, he visited Indonesia and saw longfin carp. He thought it would be interesting to cross the Indonesian longfin carp with Japanese koi. He suggested this idea to Saitama Prefecture’s Inland Water Fisheries Experiment Station. The station succeeded in developing five Hirenaga varieties. In 1991, 22 Hirenaga koi were released to a pond at the palace. Ironically, they are not very popular in Japan but are very popular in the US, with their own category in Koi competitions.

And then there is the quirky, no matter where you travel.  I am sure these belong to a very special cleaning crew, but all it brought to mind was a witches travel back up plan.

Happy New Year – 新年あけましておめでとう

 Japan
Jan 012024
 

Tokyo January 2024

New Year is the most important holiday in Japan. I have moved to the New Otani Hotel as most businesses shut down from December 29th to January 3, so unless you are in a hotel with a restaurant, you are going to have to do a lot of cooking on your own.

Leading up to the New Year, entrances are decorated with ornaments made of pine, bamboo, and other decorations. These are called kadomatsu, and during the period from right after Christmas until January 7, it is believed to provide temporary housing for the toshigami sama (deity) in order to ensure a great harvest and blessings from the family’s ancestors on everyone in the home. Pine, bamboo and plum trees each symbolize longevity, prosperity, and sturdiness.

In the case of the hotel, the kodomatsu was really over the top, and a spot you would find families taking pictures all weekend long.

 

The week before you could walk the streets and pick up a kadomatsu to fit your budget.

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Shimekazari

Another item you will find is a knotted rope made from rice straws called shimekezari. They are made up of strips of zigzag folded paper, called shide hung on rice rope.

A woman assembling kagamai-mochi

Kagami-mochi, often translated as a mirror rice cake, is a rice cake used as a decoration in the New Year.  Mirrors were often used for important Shinto rituals as they are believed to be a place where gods reside. These mochi (rice cakes) are shaped like an ancient round mirror to celebrate the new year together with the gods.

Kagami mochi topped with a maneki-neko rather than a mandarin orange.

On top of the rice cakes is a type of orange called daidai or mikan (mandarin orange). When written in kanji the word means “over generations,” thus representing a wish for prosperity of descendants over generations.

Last night, I joined several hundred people in one of the hotel’s ballrooms to partake in toshikoshi soba (buckwheat noodles) and sake.  Buckwheat noodles symbolize longevity.

The day was spent enjoying various activities set up by the hotel.

A Lion Dance

Taiko Drums

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Mochi Pounding

During the week leading up to New Years Day I visited the temple to pay my 100 yen and get my fortune

This is a fortune-telling practice where you shake a stick out from the large silver canisters. The sticks are inscribed with a symbol that corresponds to a drawer.  You open the drawer to retrieve your fortune.

I also burned incense in the oseknko in front of Sensoji. It is said that if you have any aches and pains, you should fan the smoke towards that area as it is believed to have healing powers.  Many people fan the smoke toward their heads in the hope of making themselves smarter.

I have always loved New Year’s in Japan, and this year it did not disappoint.

Tamozawa Imperial Villa

 Japan
Dec 282023
 

December 2023

Tamozawa Imperial Villa is one of the largest remaining wooden buildings in Japan. It was the largest mansion of the Meiji Era.  So, this post will be a very long look at this stunning Japanese residence.

There is a mix of both Japanese and European designs, such as carpets and chandeliers, but I will be concentrating on the Japanese aspect of the villa.

The house contains many different styles. The core of the Tamozawa Imperial Villa is the former Edo residence of the Kishu Tokugawa clan. It became imperial property in 1872, being used by both the emperor as well as the crown prince until 1898. The residence was brought from Tokyo to Nikko in 1899, and the villa was erected around that structure as a summer residence for then-crown Prince Taisho. The villa also incorporates the villa of banker Kobayashi Nempo, on whose grounds the residence is built.

Edo Period Architecture

During Japan’s Edo period (1603–1867), the country was already one of the world’s most technologically advanced and urban societies. Urbanization, however, was not accompanied by the creation of monumental architecture, with most Japanese continuing to favor modestly scaled buildings made almost entirely out of wood.

Due to the combining of various structures into one, there are also various architectural styles throughout the villa.  As is true of all of Japanese society, these differences are subtle.  The two prominent styles are shoin-zukuri and sukiya-zukira. Zukira means style.

Shoin Zukuri

In shoin-zukuri, the transom is often elaborately carved, the ceiling is coffered or railed with a hexagonal rail and the wall surfaces are finished and often decorated with murals. The floors are completely covered with tatami. The toko alcove, tana shelves and shoin built-in desk are arranged according to a fixed formula.

These ornamental shelves for books and Buddhist scriptures are a core example of the shoin-zukuri.

Sukiya-Zukuri

Sukiya-Zukuri refers to architectural styles that allows free application of designs and building methods in contrast to the shoin-zukuri style with set rules for the construction of structures. Suki means refined, representing well-cultivated taste and delight in elegant pursuits. It emphasizes the enjoyment of an exquisitely performed tea ceremony.

Sukiya-zukuri often uses unsquared columns, even simple polished tree trunks, or wood with the bark in place for the toko-bashira or central column. The walls are simply finished with natural earthen plaster, and any carving in the ranma transom is kept simple.

 

Nageshi pillars are squared off in the Shoin Zukuri while toko-bashira pillars use logs in the sukiya zukuri

Pillars retaining the bare surface of the logs at the four corners, in contrast to the squared-off pillars. The ornament in the middle is to hide the nails used in construction.

A window in the observation room on the top floor of the three-story building. The observation room was once the central portion of the Kishu Tokugawa Edo residence built in 1840.

The observation room on the third floor (only open to the public in winter) is designed for privacy, using a style closer to that of the sukiya zukuri.

Washi

Washi is traditional Japanese paper processed by hand using fibers from the inner bark of the gampi tree, or the mitsumata shrub (paper mulberry).

The application of plain white paper to the ceiling was unprecedented at the time. It is maniai-shi paper,a  type of washi.

Karasuyama Washi paper is used in the shoji screens

Torinoko-gami paper is used for the walls of each room.

This photo shows the wood framing for a coat of plaster used during the Meiji Period Sukiya-zukira.

Ranma

Ranma are pierced or open-work transom panels and are a staple of classical Japanese architecture. Placed above shoji or fusuma sliding doors, they are used to let light and air move between rooms when the doors are closed.

A Ranma with fan decorations

Windows

Marumado or yoshinomado, are most often used for ventilation and to provide a beautiful view, usually towards the garden, and are not that common. In some cases, they are covered with paper or glass.

 

Tatami

Tatami comes from the word fold and is a type of mat used as a flooring material in traditional Japanese-style rooms. They come in standard size and are covered with a weft-faced weave of soft rush.

There are three different parts to an authentic Tatami mat: the reed or rush covering, the straw core, and the decorative cloth edging or brocade. In Japanese, these are called the Tatami Omote, Tatami Goto, and the Tatami Beri.

Fusuma

Fusuma are vertical rectangular panels that can slide from side to side to redefine spaces within a room or act as doors. Historically, they were painted.

Wood

Curved and carved stair railing

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The Bathroom

The Ofuro or Japanese soaking tub

The Exterior

There are 103 rooms in the villa. It is hard to comprehend but somewhat understandable when looking down on the roof.

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The Weeping Cherry Tree is about 400 years old and blooms around mid-April every year.

The day I visited, it was in the 40s.  It was extremely cold inside the house.  I was leaving at closing time, and as you can see from these photographs, the house was slowly being closed up behind me.  Notice the exterior windows slowly become walls.

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It was winter, but the garden at dusk was still lovely.

Just one of many bunkers on the property that served as a hide-out for Emperor Hirohito during World War II.

Tamozawa Imperial Garden is a Japanese architectural lover’s dream come true.

Walking back to catch the train, I passed by the Shinkyo Bridge.
The Shinkyo Bridge’s current design dates back to 1636, but there was a bridge in the same location for a long time previous to that. In 1902, the bridge was washed away by floods, but it was rebuilt in 1904 according to the 1636 design.

The name “Shinkyo” means “sacred bridge”. The bridge is considered to be one of Japan’s three most beautiful bridges. It is both a nationally designated Important Cultural Property and a UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site.

The history of the bridge is unknown.

A Day in the Countryside

 Japan
Dec 282023
 

December 27, 2023

At the invitation of a Japanese friend who lives in Shimotsuke, Tochigi, my travel friend and I spent a day as her guest.

Strawberry Picking

It began with Strawberry picking at a pick-your-own, eat-all-you-can greenhouse farm. Tochigi is Japan’s top producer of strawberries.

Japanese strawberries are considered one of the most delicious strawberries in the world. As a Californian, I would have to question that.  The Japanese season runs from December to early May, and there are over 312 varieties of strawberries in Japan.

We picked several varieties.  The Tochiotomi was the ripest, a variety developed in Tochigi province.  I was fascinated with the Milkberry (mirukiberi) – They were sweet with a more pear texture. – We were a little early in the season, so the strawberries weren’t that terrific, but the company and the experience were.

When the seeds are red, the Milkberry Strawberry is ripe.

Indigo

We spent quite a long time with Tadashi Higeta in his home in Mashiko, Tochigi, as he told of the history of his family’s Indigo dying operation and Indigo dying in Japan in general.  He was such a lovely man. It was an honor to meet him and learn from him.

The Higeta House and shop are as famous as the family.

The shop is a one-story building of yosemune-zukure (hipped roof) style with a thatched roof built between 189 and 1801.

The west part of the building has the indigo dying workshop with its 72 indigo dyeing vats.

The ceiling of the workshop is made of bamboo slatted board with the most gorgeous wooden beams and girders.

Spinning, yarn dyeing, and hand weaving are all done on-site. Cotton cultivation is also a part of their operation. They grow brown cotton, a cotton unique to the Mashiko area. The brown of the cotton varies each year, depending on the weather.

Mr. Higeta shows us how the seeds are removed from the cotton using a small model machine.

We were escorted into the house in the back for tea.  Tadashi Higeta explains that the first run of Indigo is called “First Glance Blue”.

The studio dyes its cloth using traditional techniques: shibori, katazome, and stencil-resist dyeing.

The stencils, called katagami, are made from Japanese washi paper coated with persimmon juice for strength.

Tadashi Higeta shows us some of the stencils originally made by his father.

Tadashi is the 19th generation of Indigo dyers in his family and, sadly the last.

In 10th century Japan indigo was used exclusively by the elite classes.  The Edo Period (1603-18767) banned working-class people from wearing silk, bright colors or patterns.  Indigo was one of the only options available to dye fabric.  Japanese Samurais were known to wear indigo due to its antimicrobial properties.  Today, you will find most Japanese gardeners wearing indigo for the same reason.

Pottery

Tochigi prefecture and the town of Mashiko is also a major pottery center.  Mashiko’s distinctive local red-brown clay has been used to make everyday objects like water jugs since the 1850’s.   In the 1920s, Mingei ceramicist Shoji Hamada revived the community with his promotion of the folk art movement. Today, there are over 300 potters in Mashiko.

Typical pottery from the Mashiko area

The whiter colors are now preferred over the original dark Mashiko pottery.

Work by Tora Murasawa

A piece from a special exhibit of Tora Murasawa’s work.

A day in the country would never have happened if it had not been for our friend Sumiko and her friend Yoko.  It was such a nice break from the hustle of Tokyo.

Kabuki and Sumo

 Japan
Dec 282023
 

December 2023

Kabuki is thought to have originated in the early Edo period, when the art’s founder, Izumo no Okuni, formed a female dance troupe that performed dances and light sketches in Kyoto. The art form later developed into its present all-male theatrical form after women were banned from performing in kabuki theatre in 1629. Kabuki developed throughout the late 17th century and reached its zenith in the mid-18th century.

You can buy one-act tickets for the Kabukiza Theater in Tokyo.  It was fascinating. I saw Shojo, the Mythical Sake Loving Spirit. The shôjô is a mythical sake-loving spirit that lives in the sea. In this dance, a sake seller has a mysterious customer who appears daily and drinks enormous amounts with great satisfaction. The sake seller has a dream with instructions to go by the beach with a large tub of sake. As it turns out, the customer has actually been the shôjô in disguise. The dance shows two shôjô as they drink and dance. – No photos are allowed.

Sumo

I love Sumo, but the season does not start until January 14th.  So, I had to make do with watching a practice through a window. I was too late to get tickets to sit inside up close and personal.  Despite the glare of the window and an amazingly rude woman with a selfie stick, I got some fun shots.

If you aren’t familiar, Sumo is a Japanese style of wrestling and Japan’s national sport. It originated in ancient times as a performance to entertain the Shinto deities. The sport contains many rituals with religious backgrounds, such as the symbolic purification of the ring with salt. And speaking of tradition, only men practice the sport professionally in Japan.

The rules are simple: the wrestler who first exits the ring or touches the ground with any part of his body besides the soles of his feet loses.

Matches take place on an elevated ring (dohyo), which is made of clay and covered in a layer of sand.  A contest usually lasts only a few seconds but, in rare cases, can take a minute or more.  There are no weight restrictions or classes in sumo, meaning that wrestlers can easily find themselves matched off against someone many times their size. As a result, weight gain is an essential part of sumo training.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Ningyocho

 Japan, Tokyo
Dec 282023
 

December 2023

Ningyocho, Tokyo’s Doll Town

Ningyocho is a neighborhood in the Nihonbashi district in Tokyo’s Chuo ward.  Ningyocho (literally “Doll Town”) was licensed by the city as a pleasure district of Japan during the Edo period. The area had puppeteers, dollmakers, and craftsmen necessary to support the industry, as well as Kabuki.

The Clock with Rakugo storytellers

On the main street, Ningyocho-dori, there are two clock towers. One tower features firefighters and the other,  rakugo storytellers. On the hour (which I missed twice) they put on a small mechanical puppet show.

The word rakugo literally means ‘fallen words’. It is a type of verbal entertainment in Japan. There is never more than one performer on stage, and that person takes the role of all the characters in the story. The story is always based on dialogue, and the rakugoka (rakugo performer) indicates the change between different characters by a change in pitch, tone, and/or a slight turn of the head.

Firefighter Clock

The characters in the Firefighter Clock are not hidden behind a curtain, so I could at least get a look at the puppets.

These clock towers were originally called Karakuri Yagura. In the world of performing arts, yagura was an elevated scaffold built over the entrance of a kabuki or bunraku theater, used by drummers to get people’s attention.

Here is a very odd piece of trivia regarding the firefighters. The firefighters (machi-bakeshi) of the Edo Period were divided into 47 groups.  They were named for the 47 letters of the Iroha.

The Iroha is a Japanese poem. The first record of its existence dates from 1079. It is famous because it is a perfect pangram, containing each character of the Japanese syllabary exactly once.

Print of Japanese firefighter brigades, created by Utagawa Kunimasa II.

Created by Hiroshi Matsubashi and Hirotsugu Nakata – 2002

So why the whale? In Japan, Bunraku is a performing art where puppets are brought to life and perform subtle emotions throughout the play. This is largely due to the special strings that manipulate them, which are made from baleen. Bunraku has been declared an intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO.

Bunraku – image from Japanclass.jp

In a park in Nihonbashi is this statue of Benkei, which is a character from the Kabuki Play – Kanjincho

Benkei

This area is fun to wander. It has truly fascinating small alleyways with lots of international cuisines.  It also has lots of sweets shops.  This is a Golden Potato from Kotobukido.   It is a white bean paste-filled cake covered in cinnamon, whose aroma was wafting out into the street and would draw you into the shop even if you weren’t looking for it.  

 

 

 

 

Kappabashi – Taito City – Tokyo

 Japan
Dec 282023
 

December 2023

I love the off-beat you find in our world, and Japan specializes in it.  Here are just a few random things that made me smile.

I have touched on the manhole covers of Japan in many posts.  This is for Taito City, which is a ward within Tokyo proper.  These are characters from Sarazanmai, a Japanese anime television series set in Taito Ward.

 

 

A Rhinoceros Beetle in the Kappabashi neighborhood of Asakusa

Kappabashi is Japan’s restaurant supply store mecca, including the plastic food you see in restaurants to show you what they serve. The beetle belongs to the “food sample” company Iwasaki Be-I (pronounced “bee-eye”), which, according to a Japan Times, has about a 40% share of the sample food market in Japan. As making sample food seems quite similar to making sample anything, a museum ordered a large rhinoceros beetle from Iwasaki Be-I for a display. Iwasaki-Be-I made two, kept one, and put it outside the building.

Presently, I am staying in the Asakusa neighborhood just a block from Kappabashi, which is really more of a street than a neighborhood.

Kappabashi Dougu Gai means “Kappa Bridge Tool Town,” which is a long version of the neighborhood name.  The odd thing is that there is no bridge in Kappabashi, but there was one in 1912.

There is a long and involved myth regarding the Kappa and Kappabashi, but it is just that, a myth.  Kappa, the mythological Japanese creature, has nothing to do with Kappabashi.  The locals adopted it as a mascot when they could no longer ignore the phonetic connection.  So now, when you walk the Kappabashi, you will spot these little guys from time to time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There is even a shrine to the Kappa.

This odd Kappa is at the front entry gate of the shrine.

 

 

Two Kappa at the foot of the stairs of the shrine

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The kappa are known for their webbed hands and feet. It has a beak for a mouth and a saucer on its head that must always be filled with water, and apparently, they love cucumbers.

They are notoriously mischievous and are known to play tricks on people and animals. At worst, they steal horses, impregnate women, and drown children in the river. Some tales, however, depict these river imps as friendly and helpful.

Nikko Toshogu Shrine

 Japan
Dec 262023
 

December 25, 2023

Nikko is a two-hour train ride from Tokyo.  Much of the town is a World Heritage Site.  If one is to do it right, one should have at least two days with a night or two in an Onsen; however, I only had one day, and it was much too short.

Nikko Toshogu is a Shinto shrine that was established in 1617 to enshrine Tokugawa Ieyasu, who was the first shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate.

The main attraction in Nikko is the Shrine. It isn’t possible to photograph the amazing beauty of the place; one must see it to truly appreciate it.

You will find over 5,000 sculptures in Nikko Toshogu Shrine, but the most famous and spectacular of them are on Yomeimon Gate. Yomeimon Gate highlights the most sophisticated sculpture and decoration techniques of the early 17th century.  It is said that their combined beauty is allegedly so captivating that visitors would not get bored even if they spent a whole day looking at them—hence the nickname of Higurashi (all day long) Gate.

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The Right Side Up Pillar

The Upside Down Pillar

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The twelve pillars of the gate are carved with a repeating pattern called a guri mon that looks like curled fern leaves.  The left-hand side pillar is intentionally upside down.  An upside-down pillar is called a sakasabashira, and it is said to ward off evil.  In Japan, it is said that the moment something reaches a state of perfection, it immediately begins to deteriorate.  As a deliberate “mistake”, this sakasabashira prevents the Yomeimon Gate from ever reaching a state of perfection, thus being shielded from damage or collapse.

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Other Sculptures within the Toshugo Shrine

 

On the gable of one of the Sacred Storehouses is a pair of black and white elephants sculpted by Kano Tanyu. They are covered with dense hair and have horn-like ears and long tails. Depictions of animals in Japanese art were often very stylized, but in this case, they were carved based only on verbal descriptions. The artist had never seen a real elephant.

The gate is flanked by imposing guardian figures, including the famous “Niomon,” which are two wooden statues representing Deva Kings. These fierce and majestic guardians are believed to protect the shrine from evil spirits and malevolent forces.

This plaque, along with others of Monkeys, adorn the Sacred Stable. This is “See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil”. The names of the monkeys are Mizaru, Kikazaru, and Iwazaru. The ending “-zaru” is similar to the Japanese word for monkey.

This is Nemurineko, a carving of the Sleeping Cat surrounded by peonies. Despite its small size and modest appearance, this piece of art is a national treasure widely recognized in Japan. Carved by artist Hidari Jingoro (also the carver of The Three Wise Monkeys), his goal was to create a lifelike depiction of the cat rather than the more common deeply stylized animals. This approach led Japanese animal sculpturing in a new direction.

Five Story Pagoda, built in 1818

 

Tokugawa Ieyasu’s mausoleum

After a climb of 207 steps, you reach the pagoda that holds Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu’s remains.  The current pagoda is made of an alloy of gold, silver, and copper.  It was made in 1683 to replace the first wooden and then later stone version.  The Shogun was interred here in 1617, and the grave has never been opened.

Why all the fuss? Tokugawa Ieyasu was the founder and first shōgun of the Tokugawa Shogunate of Japan, which ruled from 1603 until the Meiji Restoration in 1868. He was one of the three “Great Unifiers” of Japan, along with his former lord Oda Nobunaga and fellow Oda subordinate Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

There is a garden behind the Museum in the Toshogu Shrine Complex.  The lake had already begun to freeze, and the temperature hovered around 40 degrees Fahrenheit all day.  It was Christmas day. – I would love to see it in the Spring.

There is so much more to the Toshuga Shrine Complex, but this was the highlight.  I also wanted to take time to tour the Tamozawa Villa, which will be another post. – As I mentioned, one should really have at least two days. I missed so much, and yet I walked well over seven miles.

Edo-Period Architecture of Hama-Rikyu

 Japan
Dec 262023
 

December 2023

I have a passion for Edo Era architecture and gardens.  Hama-rikyu Gardens has three beautifully restored Edo-period buildings.

Hama-rikyu Garden was once the property of the Tokugawa family and then the Imperial family. It was almost completely destroyed in the Great Kanto Earthquake and in the bombings of World War II. After the Imperial Family restored and relinquished the garden to the city of Tokyo in 1946, Hama-rikyu was opened to the public and is now considered one of the most beautiful Edo-style gardens in Tokyo.

Ochaya

Though the term ochaya literally means “tea house,” the term follows the naming conventions of buildings or rooms used for Japanese tea ceremonies, known as chashitsu (“tea room”). Although tea is served at an ochaya, it is not, unlike teahouses and tearooms, its sole purpose.

Nakajima-no-ochaya

Nakajima-no-chaya pavilion, now serving as a tea room, was built in 1704 on the Nakajima islet in Shiori-no-ike pond; the pond is the only remaining seawater tidal pond from the Edo era within Tokyo.

The building was first built as a ochaya to be used by the Tokugawa shoguns and the nobles of the imperial court to relax. The building has been historically recreated over the years with the most recent being in 1983.

There are three other ochaya on the property. Tako-no-ochaya, Matsu-no-ochaya and Tsubame-no-ochaya. Succeeding shoguns used these buildings to engage in ikebana (Japanese flower arrangements) and waka (Japanese poetry) and to eat meals with their guests. Matsu-no-ochaya was rebuilt in 2010, and Tsubame-no-ochaya in 2015.

Matsu-no-ochaya

A stunning window design in matsu-no-ochaya

Traditional houses were built to deal with summer heat more than winter cold under the understanding that residents could put on layers of clothing in the winter. They were built of light materials — wood, bamboo, straw, and paper — which provide terrible insulation but allow breezes to enter, air to circulate, and heat to escape.

Exterior detailing of Matsu-no-Ochaya

Taka-no-Ochaya

“Taka-no-Ochaya” (falcon teahouse) is a single-story wooden structure that is just over 900 square feet in size. Unlike other ochaya in the park, Taka-no-Ochaya has a thatched roof and wide earth floor, making it resemble an old farmhouse. It is constructed of fine Japanese Cedar.  The building was used as a resting place for shoguns, and there is also a “falcon room” in the teahouse where falcons could be kept.

Taka-no-ochaya

Interior flooring of Taka-no-ochaya

The thatched (kaya-buki) roof of taka-no-ochaya

The wood cap is called a mune-kazare (cresting). The small wooden pendant is a gegyo, which acts as a talisman.

detailing of the thatched roof

The underside of the thatched roof on the exterior

The back of the ochaya where the falcons were kept. The door would have been solid, and there is a perch inside the small room. A rush mat (Hakodate) is draped over the perch for a better grip. The small door to the right is to give food to the falcon. At the bottom right inside the room, you can see a birdbath.

The Tokyo Metropolitan Government started the restoration of Taka-no-Ochaya in November 2016, spending 230 million yen in the process.  It is a treat to see these completely restored in a way that shows the original form they would have taken, but there is steel in much of it and other modern construction advantages to ensure they survive any future earthquake.

The Rivers of Tokyo

 Japan, Tokyo
Dec 262023
 

December 2023

More than 100 rivers and canals flow beneath Tokyo.  

1849 map of Tokyo

According to the Government of Japan in 2015: “The Sumida River, though only 23.5 kilometers (about 15 miles) long, flows through a densely populated area of central Tokyo, with about 3 million people living in its basin, and it is one of the capital’s most famous waterways. Until around the mid-twentieth century, it was the habitat for fish and other aquatic life, and people gathered on its banks for recreation. But as a result of urban development during the rapid-growth years of the 1950s and 1960s, it became polluted and ceased to be an attraction.”

The Sumida is one of Tokyo’s major rivers. It branches off from the Arakawa River and flows through the city for a distance of 16 miles, eventually dumping into Tokyo Bay.

During the Edo period (1603 – 1868), the river was a major part of Tokyo life and can be seen in much of the art from the period.

The Oumayagashi ferry, seen in this Hokusai print, was a popular means of crossing the Sumida River at the center of Edo.

 

It is true that there are sad moments along the river where, for example, the freeway goes right across, and often alongside the river, but there is also such beauty along the river.

I had taken a boat from Asukasa to Hama-rikyu Gardens when I was here 25 years ago.  I repeated the trip this time, and it is just as pleasurable today as it was then.  There are 37 bridges that cross the Sumida River. The boat trip passes under a mere 12.

 

The trip begins at the Azumabashi Bridge. Originally built in 1774, the Azumabashi Bridge was once the point of departure for boat trips to the Yoshiwara pleasure district, north of Asakusa.  It has gone through a number of iterations with this one being built in 1931.

Azumabashi Bridge, Tokyo, c. 1910.

The Eitai Bridge

The Eitai was originally made of timber and was built in 1698. The bridge collapsed in 1807 and later during the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake. It is now comprised of blue steel and girders.

The Chuo Ohashi Bridge. Construction was completed on August 26, 1993.

You can get a sense of the density of Tokyo when on the river in a way you don’t achieve while on the ground.

St. Luke’s Tower – the two tall buildings are connected by a sky bridge.

A 14-story, 478-unit apartment building. Almost every unit had laundry hanging out to dry.

You see all types of architecture along the river

A Shinto shrine on the river

A Denny’s

Behind that very long fence is Tsukiji Jisaku, a traditional Japanese restaurant that opened in 1931. The house was originally built in 1899 as a second house for the Iwasaki family, founders of the Mitsubishi conglomerate.

Hamamae River Sluice Gate

Kamejima River Sluice Gate

The Toyomi Bridge over the Nihonbashi River

Nihonbashi in Edo (Edo Nihonbashi), from the series Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji (Fugaku sanjūrokkei)

Among Tokyo Cruise’s water buses are the Himiko and the Hotaluna, designed by the mangaka Leiji Matsumoto, the creator of Space Battleship Yamato, Space Pirate Captain Harlock, and Galaxy Express 999. 

The Kiyosu Bridge was designated as a cultural asset of national importance, as it was the first self-anchored chain suspension bridge in Japan. The bridge was modeled after the Deutz Suspension Bridge in Cologne, Germany.

Rainbow Bridge

The Rainbow Bridge is a suspension bridge crossing northern Tokyo Bay between Shibaura Pier and the Odaiba waterfront. Completed in 1993, the name “Rainbow Bridge” was decided by the public. There are lamps placed on the wires supporting the bridge, which are illuminated in three different colors, red, white, and green, every night using solar energy.

 

Waters Takeshita, a development of hotels, theaters, stores and restaurants

When you are going down the river, what strikes you is how big Tokyo is. When you are on the ground or in a bus, while Tokyo is high, you never get the feeling that it is as large as it actually is.   The boat ride takes 40 minutes, and for the whole trip, you can see the Skytree, which is one of the harder concepts to grasp.

I can see the Skytree from the window of my hotel room as though it is just a few blocks away.  They are just over one mile apart or a 30-minute walk.  The boat trip starts a mere 1/2 mile from the Skytree. To travel 40 minutes by boat or 5 miles and still see it is mind-blowing.  Yes, the Skytree is extremely tall, but it acts as a beacon, which helps give one perspective as to how far they can travel and still be in downtown Tokyo.

The Skytree from the landing area of Hama-Rikyu Gardens

The Skytree from my hotel window

Tokyo’s Fishmarkets

 Japan, Tokyo
Dec 262023
 

December 22, 2023

I had the privilege of visiting the original inner Tsukiji fish market fifteen years ago when you could walk the floors with the chefs and the buyers.  That era is gone.

Where the market once stood is a prime piece of Tokyo Real Estate yet to be developed.

Tokyo’s Tsukiji wholesale fish market, one of the city’s most popular destinations for international visitors, closed in October 2018.  It had been an important part of Tokyo since the mid-1930s and was considered the world’s largest fish and seafood market.

The market sat on land reclaimed from Tokyo Bay. It was created in the Edo period by the Tokugawa shogunate after the Great Fire of Meireki in 1657.

Tsukiji means “constructed land” or “reclaimed land” and has its roots in the word tsukuru, the verb for “to make”.

Before Tsukiji, there was Nihonbashi.

The now-gone Tsukiji market was built following the 1923 Great Kantō earthquake. Architects and engineers from the Architectural Section of the Tokyo Municipal Government were sent to Europe and America to do research for the new market. However, because of the sheer size of the market and the number of items traded, they were forced to come up with their own design.  The relocation of the market from Nihonbashi was one of the biggest reconstruction projects in Tokyo after the earthquake, taking over six years and involving 419,500 workers. Tsukiji was officially opened on February 11, 1935.

What still remains of the market is what is called the Outer Market. The Outer Market existed side by side with the Inner Market and is still known for its high-quality seafood restaurants and a large variety of other shops that sprang up as a result of the Inner Market.

Standing in Line for Sushi at the Outer Market

The crowds at the Outer Market

Needless to say, this area is now as big a tourist draw as it ever was. Lines for good sushi are long.

Kyoshi Kimura in front of one of his restaurants in the Outer Market

Kiyoshi Kimura, the self-proclaimed “sushi king,”  set a record when he spent $1.8 million for a bluefin tuna at the Toyosu market in 2020.

The Shinto Shrine that serves the Tuskiji Market

Namiyoke inari-jinja was built on the water’s edge when this part of Tokyo was Edo. The name of the shrine literally means “protection from waves.”

After the Tsukiji fish market was built, the Namiyoke Inari Shrine became an unofficial guardian shrine for the marketplace and its traders.

 

Toyosu Fish Market

Everything was moved to the new Toyosu Market in 2018. This immense market is made up of three main buildings: two buildings for seafood and one for fruits and vegetables. All the buildings are connected to each other and to the Shijo-mae train station. There is also a large area with nothing but restaurants.

The new market takes tourists into consideration, but it is as stale and unimpressive as it gets.  Yes, everyone now can see the tuna selling, but you are high above and behind glass.

On average, 200 fresh tunas and 1,000 frozen tunas are placed on the auction block each day, which runs from 5:00 to 6:30 am. The tuna auction floor is green because the best way to determine quality is by assessing how red the meat is. Having a green floor makes tuna’s meat stand out even more.

There are primarily four types of tuna being sold on this floor. Bigeye tuna, which is a lean tuna with a bright red color. It is found all around the world. Then there’s the south bluefin tuna, which lives in the South Pacific and the Indian Ocean. Then Yellow Fin tuna, and finally, the very best, which is Bluefin.

The fish are frozen on the ship as the ships are often at sea for a year. The tails-ends are half severed to expose flesh for scrutiny by the potential bidders. You will see them shine flashlights on the meat, tear pieces off and rub them between their fingers, and take small pick axes to the carcasses in order to gauge the level of fat and the quality of meat.

Once the auction is over, you can move to the retail building from an observation area.  There isn’t much to see, and it is pretty unexciting, considering other fish markets in the world.

Real Wasabi

There is a retail vegetable and fruit area which the general public is allowed to visit and buy.  Above is what real wasabi looks like.  It is milder and tastier than the mix of horseradish, mustard powder, and green food coloring, most often found in American sushi restaurants.

Some interesting facts about real wasabi. It loses flavor about 15 minutes after grating, and it costs between $80 and $150 per pound.  Here is an excellent video on why wasabi is so expensive and why you most likely have never had it.

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I love Uni. This was heaven.

Three-leaf arrowhead Apparently is excellent when roasted. The taste is somewhat like potatoes.

Peeled Ginko

The fish market is worth getting up before the sun, and yes, it is far more sanitary and safe, but I miss the energy of the old market.

Kasuga Wakamija Onmatsuri

 Japan
Dec 192023
 

Nara Japan

December 17th, 2023

I arrived in Nara with no idea that I had arrived for one of the most important festivals of the year.

Instruments waiting for their musicians

Kasuga Wakamija Onmatsuri is a Shinto festival that was originally created to pray away a disease epidemic. It later became associated with guaranteeing a good harvest because of the importance of the harvest in ancient Japan. The festival has been held every year without fail for over 880 years. While the festival lasts for four days, the best day to be here is the 17th.

The main event is a procession that begins downtown and ends at the Kasugataisha Shrine.  It authentically replicates the customs, manners, and clothing of every major period from the Heian period (794-1185) to the Edo period (1603-1868). I was at the entrance to the shrine for the festivities, and this is what I saw.

 

The shōzoku (traditional vestments) worn by Shintō priests are quite distinctive in their design. They reflect a court style that originated in ancient China but evolved in a uniquely Japanese direction during the Heian period (794–1185). Today, Shintō priests are the only people who wear such attire. Until recently, these vestments were exclusively male garments since women were barred from the Shintō priesthood.

Shintō vestments fall into three classes: seisō (formal), reisō (ritual), and jōsō (ordinary). Formal seisō vestments are in the style known as ikan, consisting of a colored and sometimes patterned belted robe called a hō over hakama (loose trousers) and worn with a headdress known as a kanmuri . These are modeled on the robes of office worn by the ancient nobility.

 

Jōsō (ordinary vestments) are called either jōe, meaning “purified robes,” or kariginu. These are based on the garments ancient nobles donned when hunting, and they are designed to facilitate movement. Priests wearing this costume don a tall hat called an eboshi instead of the kanmuri.

The shōzoku worn by Shintō priestesses today has been adapted from the traditional male costume.

As with every good parade, after the opening ceremonies, the children march in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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A carriage from the Heian Period

Tsubo Shozoku, used by Heian noblewomen

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Atop the tall polls are gohei.  The shrine priest uses the gohei to bless or sanctify a person or object in various Shinto rituals.

This gentleman is tying a roll of white cloth to the back of each of the two priests.

The long white roll of cloth unfurls as the priests walk. I could find nothing as to what this symbolizes.

There were several veiled women on horseback. They are the miko (shrine maidens) for different shrines; Tanoichi, Nara, Yamano, Haidennoyao

Zuijin (also called zuishin) was a government official in Konoefu ( the Headquarters of the Inner Palace Guards) during and after the Heian period; zuijin followed nobles to guard them when they went out. – They are wearing kanmuri hats with lacquered horse hairs.

After the horses, the most important members of all came through.

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Montsuki is a type of formal kimono with family crests worn only by men.

Yabusame

Yabusame is a type of mounted archery in traditional Japanese archery. This style of archery has its origins at the beginning of the Kamakura period. Minamoto no Yoritomo became alarmed at the lack of archery skills his samurai possessed. He organized yabusame as a form of practice.

These gentlemen are wearing unusual hats and holding tanabata branches with colorful tanzaku papers. The hats have a long story of love, loss and dragons.

 

Musicians picking up their instruments. Note the mitsu-domoe marks (commas) on the drum. Different magatama are popular on Japanese drums.  The magatama are symbols of “avoidance of evil” or the “magic of good fortune.

A very short clip of the sound of these unusual instruments

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I assume these women were there to take care of the horses, judging by their jackets.

A man dressed as a samurai

Away from the temple, many of the people gathered, waiting to re-enter the temple. I was simply enamored with the colors and the kimonos.
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It was 40 degrees that day, and this man shows how cold we all were.

I know that so much more happened on the shrine premises. Once the procession arrives at the temple, the festival ceremony takes place over 24 hours. It involves both the senko no gi, which is a welcoming and departure of the deity enshrined at Wakamiya ( a subshrine of Kasugataisha), and the kanko no gi, where the deity is returned to the shrine. I felt privileged just to see what I saw.

 

Nara, Japan

 Japan
Dec 192023
 

December 17, 18, 2023

I have been to Nara before, as has my travel friend Susan, so here is a look at some of the typical tourist places we managed to re-visit.  The next post will be an area of Nara I had never seen before.

Nara

Sento-kun

Sento-kun is a mascot of Nara. It was created in 2010 to commemorate the 1300th anniversary of Nara Heijō-kyō, the ancient capital of Japan. Sento-kun is meant to resemble an amiable young boy who has the antlers of a deer, an animal that has long been regarded as a heavenly protector of the city.  The deer are considered messengers of the gods in the traditional Shinto religion and are a national natural treasure.

If you have been to Nara, you know how aggressive the deer can be.  The tourists feed them regularly, but in the past, they would happily eat anything, including a map you had in your hand.  With no visitors, they suffered due to covid but eventually learned to forage on their own and are healthier than ever.  While tourists still feed them, they appear to be far less aggressive and less interested in the crackers they get.  Let us hope it stays that way.

Manhole Covers of Nara

Tōdai-ji temple

The Giant Buddha of Tōdai-ji temple

The temple construction is exquisite

 

This small square hole in the base of one of the temple’s great wooden pillars is the so-called “Buddha’s nostril.” It is said to grant a degree of enlightenment in the next life to any worshipper who can fit through it. Needless to say, there are only children making their way through.

Kasuga Taisha Shrine

You visit Kasuga Taisha for the over 2000 stone lanterns (ishidoro) and the over 1000 bronze lanterns. The lanterns have been donated by worshippers as a traditional way to greet the spirits of the dead. Kasuga Taisha is Nara’s most celebrated shrine. It was established at the same time as the capital and is dedicated to the deity responsible for the protection of the city. Kasuga Taisha was also the tutelary shrine of the Fujiwara, Japan’s most powerful family clan, during most of the Nara and Heian Periods. The shrine had been periodically rebuilt every 20 years (known as shikinen sengu) for many centuries. However, the custom was discontinued at the end of the Edo Period.

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Kasuga Taisha is the center of the Kasuga Wakamija Onmatsuri celebration that I attended on the 17th.  The diety is returned to its home during the ceremony at the Wakamija shrine inside the complex of Kasuga Taisha. Kasuga Taisha now includes over 175 buildings.

Wakamija Shrine within Kasuga Taisha Shrine

Kasuga Taisha Shrine was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998.

Fujinami-no-ya Hall

Fujinami-no-hya hall was once used as an office for priests. According to the Shrines website, the hall now houses many hanging lanterns, which are lit so that visitors can experience the mystic atmosphere created by their flickering light.

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The four main shrines of the complex gave their name to the kasuga–zukuri architectural style. The style is typified by a honden (main hall) with a simple rectangular structure and a curved gabled roof decorated with chigi (V-shaped projections) at each roof end and katsuogi (cylinders laid across the roof ridge). Wooden parts are painted red and black, while the walls are plastered white, and the roofs are made from cypress bark.

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Chuman Gate

The Chumon Gate was built in 1613 CE. It has a sweeping two-story central roof and two wings that house secondary shrines. Next to the gate is a cedar tree thought to be over 800 years old, and the subject of the picture scroll Kasuga Gongen Genki E that dates to 1309 CE. The same tree appears on the stage scenery of every Noh stage play because Noh was first performed at Kasuga in the 14th century CE.

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Naramachi

 Japan
Dec 192023
 

December 17, 18, 2023

Having been to Nara before, I was in Nara for some R&R this time.  On arrival I discovered I had arrived for the Kasuga Wakamija Onmatsuri festivities.  So, after re-visiting some of the highlights of Nara and spending many hours at the festivities, I managed to squeeze in a walk in a part of Nara I had not seen before

Naramachi

Naramachi is well-mapped by the locals to guide you to the more historic places.  There are also lovely ateliers and lots of small delightful restaurants.

Naramachi dates to the 17th century when it was a thriving merchant district. The area served as Nara’s economic hub during the Edo period.

The area boasts of its collection of machiya townhouses. These are traditional wooden buildings with intricate lattice windows, wooden façades, and a distinctive architectural style reflective of the times.

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Koshin-do Hall

The Koshin faith is a mix of faiths from Japan and China popularized in Naramachi during the Edo Period.

The red stuffed toys are monkeys of the servant serving the Shomenkonjgo statue, enshrined in the Koshin-do Hall. It is a lucky charm that is said to prevent evil from invading the house.

A small street of Naramachi, as you can see, the red monkeys hang everywhere.

Kozenji Temple in Naramachi

I wish I had much more time to spend in Naramachi. It is really a special place.

Saiho-ji Koke-dera

 Japan, Kyoto
Dec 192023
 

December 15, 2023

Saihō-ji is a Rinzai Zen Buddhist temple. It is famous for its moss garden and is commonly referred to as “Koke-dera,” meaning “moss temple”.

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Before entering the temple, one is required to sit in contemplation in the main hall and copy a very small part of a Buddhist Sutra in kanji. The sutra I was given was the Life-Extending Ten-Line Kannon Sutra or Enmei Jukku Kannon Gyo. I have put the sutra at the end of this post.

 

According to temple legend, Saihō-ji was constructed during the Nara period. Over time, the temple fell into disrepair, and in 1339, the chief priest of a nearby shrine summoned the famous Japanese gardener Musō Soseki to help him revive Saihō-ji as a Zen temple.

The garden is arranged as a circular promenade centered on Golden Pond (ōgonchi). The pond is shaped like the Chinese character for “heart” or “mind” (心, Kokoro) and contains three small islands.

The area around the pond is said to be covered with more than 120 varieties of moss, which is believed to have started growing after the flood of the temple grounds in the Edo Period.

Until 1977, Saihō-ji was open to the general public on a walk-up basis. Now, it is open to the public by appointment only. It allows a very limited number of visitors and for only 90 minutes. It is said that these regulations were put into place to protect the delicate moss from the hordes of tourists that plagued the temple before 1977.

In 1994, Saihō-ji was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The tea house was rebuilt during the Toyotomi Period (16th century). It is known for its moon-watching area. It is also said that Sen-no-Rikyu (a tea master) had used the building as a temporary hideout when Toyotomi Hideyoshi ordered a hara-kiri. Iwakur Tomoi also used this teahouse and succeeded in hiding from the shogunates during the Meiji Restoration.

The front of the tea house

Moss shadows

Walking the path around the pond is awe-inspiring. A short bus ride from Tokyo Station it is absolutely worth the effort to get a reservation and hop on a bus.

bridge and reflection *

I apologize.  I truly hate blogs that just photo-dump, but I just could not help it. This place is so amazing.

*x**ducks on a pond *

A sacred stone tied with a Shimenawa, a rope used to demarcate the boundary between the sacred and the profane.

The bridge leads to the main gate, which is no longer in use.

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It started to rain just as my visit was over.

The Kanzeon,

paying homage to Buddha,
forged a causal connection with Buddha,
a karmic affinity with Buddha,
a karmic affinity with Buddha, Dharma, and Sangha, thus attaining permanence, ease, selfhood, and purity. In the morning, think of Kanzeon,
in the evening, think of Kanzeon.
Thought after thought arises from the mind;
thought after thought is not separate from mind.

kan ze on 觀世音

na mu butsu 南無佛

yo butsu u in 與佛有因

yo butsu u en 與佛有縁

butsu ho so en 佛法僧縁 jo raku ga jo 常樂我淨

cho nen kan ze on bo nen kan ze on 朝念觀世音 暮念觀世音

nen nen ju shin ki nen nen fu ri shin 念念從心起 念念不離心

 

Osaka

 Japan, Osaka
Dec 132023
 

December 11 and 12, 2023

Osaka is a 28-minute train ride from Kyoto, and yet it is a world away. This was a quick trip to Osaka to see the illuminations and try the street food.  It was also my first trip to Osaka, and I was blown away.  It is a vast and dense city, the second largest in Japan, and yet it is comfortable, people-scaled (despite the hundreds of very tall skyscrapers), and a real joy to walk around.

Umeda Sky Building

There is so much construction happening in Osaka around the Umeda Sky Building that this was the best I could capture of the whole building.

It was a surprise to me that the Umeda Sky Building is only the nineteenth-tallest building in Osaka. Nonetheless, it is Osaka’s most recognizable landmark. It consists of two 40-story towers that connect at their two uppermost stories, with bridges and an escalator crossing the wide atrium-like space in the center.

Looking up the middle from the ground.

The building was designed by Hiroshi Hara and completed in 1993. The observatory, which sits on the top between the two towers, was largely assembled at ground level before being hoisted up 568 feet and fixed into place.

To get to the top, take a glass elevator from the third to the thirty-fifth floor and ride up these 147-foot-long escalators.

Views from the Umeda Sky Building

Osaka Bay and the Yoda River

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Chapel Goedele

Chapel Goedele

That is the Chapel Goedele sticking out from the Monterey Hotel. It is a perfect re-creation of the 14th-century church that still stands today in Bruges, Belgium.  This is in keeping with the hotel, whose interior is designed to resemble that of the Schönbrunn Palace of Vienna, despite being built in 2009.  The hotel is owned by Hotel Monterey Group, and their corporate concept is that each hotel will re-create the history and charm of various cities from around the world.

Inside the Chapel

Gate Tower Building

The Gate Tower Building

In the late 19th century, a wood and charcoal business called Suezawa Sangyo purchased the property rights to this plot. Over the years, their buildings on the land fell into disrepair. When they finally planned to redevelop the area in 1983, a new exit ramp connecting the Hanshin Expressway to downtown Osaka was already set to pass through. The landowners and the highway department fought for five years until they ultimately reached a solution – a traffic tunnel that goes through the building.

The tunnel through the Gate Tower Building

A Little History – Osaka Castle

Osaka had a population of 3,252,340 in 1940. It was the most important industrial area in the Far East as one of the principal centers of heavy industry. It was noted for its shipbuilding, iron, and steel works.

The first allied bombing raid on Osaka resulted in 3,987 dead and 678 missing and destroyed 8.1 square miles.

During World War II, Osaka Castle was turned into a munitions factory and became one of the largest military armories in Japan, employing 60,000 workers. American bombing raids targeted the castle and destroyed 90% of the arsenal, killing 382 people working there.

The current castle building is a modern reconstruction completed in 1997.  The exterior is a faithful reproduction, the interior is a modern museum and not a castle.

Theater

In the Shinsekai area is this somewhat deco building. It is the Kokusai movie theater.  It is plastered with hand-painted movie posters that rotate every few weeks, a rarity nowadays. Upstairs are second-run Hollywood movies, while the space downstairs screens X-rated films. The structure was built in 1930 and originally functioned as a playhouse before being converted into a theater in 1950.

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Around Town

Ted Ibert by Ted Huber in front of the Grand Front Osaka Shopping and Business Mall near the Umeda Tower.  He usually sits alone and is dressed seasonally.

Osaka, Japan, will be the site of the 2025 World Expo, and they are already gearing up with advertising and manhole covers.

As I mentioned, I was here for the Illuminations and the food. Here is a very small collection of illuminations from Osaka Castle. The food will be another post.

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A Shachihoko

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The Food and Osaka

 Japan, Osaka
Dec 132023
 

December 2023

Long-standing stereotypes about Kansai (Western Japan) folks run as follows: Kyoto-ites spend their money on clothes, Kobe people on shoes, and Osakans blow all their cash on food.

If this trip is any indication, that is very true.  There are several food areas in Osaka, and they are as entertaining as they are filled with delicious food.

The signage is as delicious as the food.

Shinsekai

Shinsekai is a very old neighborhood in the “Minami” area of Osaka. It was created in 1912 with New York (specifically, Coney Island) as a model for its southern half and Paris for its northern half. Luna Park amusement park operated here from 1912 until it closed in 1923. The centerpiece of the neighborhood was and is Tsutenkaku Tower, the “tower reaching to heaven”.

There are several of these “Billiken” all throughout the Shensekai food district of Osaka.

Billiken is a ‘god’ – specifically, he’s the ‘God of the Way Things Ought to Be.’

The reason for this “god” is mired in the unknown. The figure was originally created by an American art teacher and illustrator, Florence Pretz of Kansas City, Missouri, who is said to have seen the mysterious figure in a dream. It’s said that the first Billiken came to Osaka as an exhibit representing America in the Luna Park theme park that was built in Shinsekai in the early 1900s.  From there, the trail is murky at best, but you will find them everywhere in Shensekai.

Tsutenkaku Tower

The current Tsutenkaku tower is the second to occupy the site. The original tower, patterned after the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe, was built in 1912 and was connected to the adjacent amusement park, Luna Park, by an aerial cable car.

The original structure suffered a fire in 1943, which severely damaged it, and rather than repair the structure, it was disassembled, and the steel was used for the war effort.

This area is edgy but safe.  It is considered the most dangerous area in Osaka if there even is such a place in Japan.  However, it is where Japanese homeless men, running away from the stigma of homelessness in their own hometowns, do tend to congregate.

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Taking pictures of food has never been my thing, but if there’s one food that’s entirely associated with Osaka, it’s the fried and diced octopus balls known as takoyaki.

The best way to understand and enjoy the food of Shensekai is a food tour.  There is just too much to take in on one’s own.

As I mentioned, I am not one to take photos of food, but the signage and the street life are another thing.

 

Dotonbori

Dotonbori is known as one of Osaka’s principal tourist and nightlife areas. The area runs along the Dōtonbori canal from Dōtonboribashi Bridge to Nipponbashi Bridge. Historically a theater district, it is now a popular nightlife and entertainment area characterized by its eccentric atmosphere and large illuminated signboards.

Ebisu Tower

Ebisu Tower is a Ferris wheel built into the facade of the Dotonbori Don Quijote store.  Don Quijote stores are an experience of cheap goods, overwhelming music, lights, action, and insanity.  Ebisu is the god of fishermen and luck.

This is the home of the famous kushikatsu, (deep-fried skewered meats and vegetables. Their mascot is Daruma an ‘angry’ man holding two skewers in the shape of an X. Crossing your arms like an X is a Japanese way of signaling the word “no”. The angry man is telling all of his customers the cardinal rule of eating kushikatsu: under no circumstances should you ever double-dip your skewer into the tangy black sauce.

A long line for Takoyaki

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Random Kyoto

 Japan, Kyoto
Dec 132023
 

December 2023

Chion-in ( Monastery of Gratitude)

The colossal main gate, the Sanmon, was built in 1619 and is the largest surviving structure of its kind in Japan. It features an Irimoya-zukuri or a Hip and Gabled roof. The purpose of the hip and gable roof is to protect the center point of the temple.

Yasaka Pagoda

The Tower of Yasaka is the last remaining structure of a 6th-century temple complex known as Hōkan Temple.

Yasaka Kōshin-dō

The temple is dedicated to Shomen Kongo, a guardian warrior, and to the three wise monkeys.

The colored balls are kukurizaru. They represent control over playfulness and desire-driven behavior. Visitors make a wish by placing one of their (bad) desires into a kukurizaru and leaving it with Koshin-san. Koshin-san takes away the desire and grants the wish.

Sadly, this pagoda is overrun with kimono-clad tourists, as it has now become a highly treasured “Instagram” spot.

Kabuki

Minamiza Kabuki Theatre was founded in 1610 as Shijō Minami-za. The current building was built in 1929.

A statue of Izumo-no-Okuni around the corner from the Kabuki Theater. Izumo-no-Okuni (1578 – 1613) was a Japanese entertainer who is believed to have invented the theatrical art form of kabuki.

Arashiyama

The Kimono Forest at the Arashiyama Train Station

The fabrics for the Kimono Forest were traditionally dyed in the Kyo-Yūzen method unique to Kyoto, in the workshop of the Kameda-Tomi company, a kimono manufacturer established in 1919 and known for its invention of Hawaiian-style Kyo-Yūzen shirts.

Selected by world-famous interior designer Yasumichi Morita, the Kimono Forest boasts a total of 32 different patterns, from flowers to flying cranes to geometric figures.  Since I have a passion for skeletons, I could not help but notice that several of the kimonos were ornamented with them.

When I first visited the Bamboo Forest 15 years ago, there was no one around.  Today, I found as many people with selfie sticks as there are bamboo stalks. The forest is also famous for the beautiful sounds that the bamboo makes, impossible to hear above the din of the noisy and disrespectful tourists.

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest

I am not being flippant when I say, disrespectful tourists. At least 100 bamboo trees in the Arashiyama bamboo forest have been defaced with carvings in English, Chinese, and Korean languages.  These carvings are killing the trees.

Togetsukyo Bridge over the River Ōi near the Bamboo Forest

Togetsukyo Bridge as seen in one of artist Hiroshige’s ukiyo-e prints in the set: Famous Views of the Sixty-odd Provinces.

While it could be considered hokey the Romantic Train is a nice little hour in the Bamboo Forest.  Called the Romantic Train on some websites or the Roman Tick on others, no matter what it is a nice trip along the river, especially with the changing leaves.

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The train follows the river and you can often spot another tourist attraction, taking a boat down the river.

Aside from the Kimono Forest, another reason to visit this area of Kyoto is the Ōkōchi Sansō Villa, the former residence of Japanese period film star Ōkōchi Denjirō (1898-1962).  That is for another post.

Kyoto Tower

Kyoto Tower

Kyoto Tower was proposed as an observation tower in the early 1960s, to be completed in time to correspond with the 1964 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. Construction began in 1963 on the former site of Kyoto’s central post office and was completed near the end of 1964.

Kyoto Tower was the first tower in the world to be built as a structure of steel plates joined into a cylinder without using iron frames.  It was designed to withstand typhoons and earthquakes.

On a clear day, you can see Osaka from Kyoto Tower.

The Shinkansen (bullet train) arriving at Kyoto station as seen from Kyoto Tower.

The Torii Gate just one block from my hotel, as seen from Kyoto Tower

Kiyomizu-Dera Temple, as seen from Kyoto Tower

 

Ōkōchi Sansō

 Japan, Kyoto
Dec 132023
 

December 2o23

The Chuman or Middle Gate

While the Bamboo Forest and other attractions of Arashiyama are jam-packed, Okochi Sanso is a serene oasis and a must-visit for a mere $7.00.

Ōkōchi Sansō Villa is the former residence of Japanese film star Ōkōchi Denjirō (1898-1962). A period actor from the film “The Tale of Genji”, he was part of the golden era of Japanese Film. Ōkōchi’s Villa includes a traditional home, tea house, and Buddhist halls amidst a carefully planned and cultivated Japanese-style garden. The villa employs classic architecture despite its rather recent construction.

A glimpse of the house

Jibutsu-dō

A Meiji Era building, the Jibutsu-dō was moved to its current location at Denjirō’s request.  During work, it’s said he would come to the Jibutsu-dō to meditate and gather his thoughts, and the rest of the estate was founded gradually outwards from there.

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Tea garden in front of the tekisuian (tea house)

Just one of the many places on the property to glimpse the mountains that surround Kyoto

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When the actor passed away in 1962 at the age of 64, the estate passed to his wife, Taeka, who continued to manage the villa and eventually decided to open the garden to the public.  The family continues to maintain the estate.

Higashi Hongan-ji and the Fires of Edo

 Japan, Kyoto
Dec 132023
 

December 10, 2023

Higashi Hongan-ji

Higashi Hongan-ji, the head temple of the Ōtani-ha branch of Jōdo Shinshū, was most recently constructed in 1895 after a fire burned down the previous temple.  In fact, Various parts of Higashi Honganji, including the Founder’s Hall and Amida Hall, burned down four times during the Japanese Edo Period.

The Founders Hall of Higashi Hongan-ji is one of the largest wooden structures in the world.

This temple represents how often buildings burned in Japan throughout history.

The great Kyoto Fire of the Tenmei Era broke out on March 7, 1788, and burned for two days. It is also known as Donguri Yake, which is the name of the area of town where the fire began in an unoccupied house. The fire did major damage including the destruction of the Imperial Palace and Nijo-jo Castle. This fire is regarded as one of the “Three Great Fires of Kyoto” (of the early modern period). The others are the Hoei Era fire and the Genji era fire, which was a result of the Kinmon incident.

A Dragon spouting water to fill the Temizuya.

The Great Fire of the Hoei Era occurred in Kyoto on April 28, 1708. A fire that started in a money exchange shop, fed by winds, and burned down the Imperial Palace, Sento Imperial Palace, Empress Dowager’s Palace, the Crown Prince’s Palace, as well as the mansions of nobles such as the Kujo Family and the Takatsukasa Family.

A small example of the exquisite carvings and metalwork found around the temple.

Higashi Hongan-ji suffered again in 1823 when an accidental fire destroyed many of the temple buildings. They were rebuilt in 1835. After burning down once again in 1858, the destroyed halls were quickly and temporarily reconstructed. However, these temporary halls burned down in a city-wide fire caused by the Kinmon incident on July 19, 1864.  The Kinmon incident was a rebellion against the Tokugawa shogunate, in which the rebels, fighting to restore the emperor, set fire to the town.

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Notice the human hair woven with hemp.

Hemp ropes necessary to haul the massive timber needed for the reconstruction of Higashi Hongan-ji after the 1864 fire were of such low quality as to snap under heavy load, causing many serious accidents.

To remedy the issue, female devotees throughout Japan donated their hair to strengthen the ropes. A total of 53 ropes were made using donated hair, the largest was 360 feet long and 16 inches thick and weighed about one ton.

A top hinge of the front doors of Higashi Hongan-ji

The door-locking mechanism of Higashi Hongan-ji

Higashi Hongan-ji from Kyoto Tower

When Tokyo was the capital of Japan, it was called Edo. During the Edo period (1600−1868), there were so many fires that the city was described by the saying, “Fires and quarrels are the flowers of Edo”.

Between 1600 and 1945, Edo/Tokyo was leveled every 25–50 years or so by fire, earthquakes, tsunamis, volcanic eruptions, and war.

Uji City

 Japan
Dec 132023
 

December 2023

Uji is a small city between Kyoto and Nara, two of Japan’s most famous historical and cultural centers. Its proximity to these two former capitals resulted in Uji’s early development as a cultural center. In the Heian era (794-1185), Heian aristocrats maintained country houses in Uji. At the height of the political power of the Fujiwara clan, the Byodoin Temple and Ujigami Shrine, the oldest extant shrine in Japan, were constructed in Uji.

Uji is also famous for its green tea.  I was here with my friend Susan for a Matcha tour with Arigato Travel.

The Tale of Genji

The Tale of Genji was written by Lady Murasaki Shikibu about 1010 years ago. It consists of 44 chapters discussing the elegant matters of the Heian Court. The final chapters, titled “Hashi-hime,”  are all set in Uji City.

Lady Murasaki Shikibu

Said to have been built by a monk from Nara around 646, Uji Bridge is the main bridge over the Uji River and is considered one of Japan’s three oldest bridges. It has been destroyed and rebuilt many times throughout the years, with the current structure built in 1996.

The Uji River

One of our guides grinds matcha in the traditional manner

The introduction of Green Tea dates from the Song Dynasty of China. During this period, Myoan Eisai, a Japanese Buddhist Monk, was staying in China, and upon returning, brought with him the tea seeds.

At the time, the common way to make green tea was to brew the tea leaves. Eisai ground the tea into a powder instead. He called this type of tea the “Elixir of the Immortals. It ingrained itself in Zen Buddhism because of the teas effects on the brain, monks initially drank it to stay awake during meditation.

How matcha is ground today

Old tea jars from the Tea shop that gave us our matcha-making experience – Mitsuboshien Kanbayashi Sannyu Honten.

There was hojicha being roasted, and the aroma was intoxicating.

Measuring the Matcha into one’s cup

Soba made from matcha is called Cha Soba – Cha is the word for tea. The noodles are made with buckwheat flour and infused with matcha tea.

Matcha dango on the right

We were told by the tea shop owner that more matcha goes into making other products, such as ice cream than is sold as matcha tea.

Byodo-In

This temple was initially built in 998 in the Heian period as a rural villa of high-ranking courtier Minamoto no Shigenobu. After he died, one of the most powerful members of the Fujiwara clan, Fujiwara no Michinaga, purchased the property from the courtier’s widow. The villa was made into a Buddhist temple by his son Fujiwara no Yorimichi in 1052. Byodo-in is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Ujigami

The Ujigami Shrine is a Shinto shrine built as a guardian shrine for Byōdō-in. It, too, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Ujigami Shrine is dedicated to the mythical Emperor Ojin and his sons, Uji no Wakiiratsuko and the Emperor Nintoku. The trio are classed as legendary, mentioned in the Kojiki (Japan’s oldest book), but there is no historical evidence that they actually existed. Emperor Ojin’s and the legend is similar to the legend of King Arthur.

Omikuji

The rabbit is a popular symbol associated with the shrine and can be found on its omikuji or lucky charms. This Shinto shrine is dedicated to Ujinowaki Iratsuko-no-Mikoto, son of Emperor Ojin. According to the legend, he got lost on the way to Uji from Kawachi province. A divine messenger in the form of a rabbit called a “Mikaeri Usagi” (turning back rabbit) guided him back by hopping along a little way and then looking back as if to say, “Follow me,” before hopping on a little further.

The water spout for the Ujigami Shrine that fills the Chozuya. Chozuya or temizu-ya are found in front of every Japanese shrine. Here you purify your hands and mouth before entering the shrine proper.

Uji is a little under an hour by train from Kyoto, and is worth the day trip.

Architecture of The Imperial Palace

 Japan, Kyoto
Dec 042023
 

December 3, 2023

A rainbow forms over the Palace as I head towards it.

You can not enter any of the buildings on the Palace grounds, but you can stroll to your heart’s content.  Years ago, I was struck by two things at the Imperial Palace: the architectural elements and the garden.  Those are the two things that struck me as I walked through again fifteen years later.

One of the six palace gates

Japan has one of the largest collections of historic wooden architecture that has lasted over such a long period of history, starting from 600 CE. Over 80% of all historic Japanese architecture is timber-framed and joined together by intricate bracketing systems that provide great strength and flexibility. This has allowed the timber structures to withstand Japan’s incessant earthquakes.

The roofs of the Imperial Palace have always taken me aback.  Roofs tend to be the focal point of much of Japanese architecture. The Palace roofs are constructed using the traditional method “hiwadabuki”, where bamboo nails are used to thatch pieces of cypress bark into roofing layers
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Hawadabuki

The roof often constitutes half the size of the whole edifice. The slightly curved eaves extend far beyond the walls, covering verandas. Their weight must, therefore, be supported by complex bracket systems called tokyō.

The palace was once the home of the Royal Family as well as the Emperor of Japan and dates back to 794, when it was originally constructed. Thanks to fires and wars, the current palace dates from 1855. Architecturally speaking, the Kyoto Imperial Palace resembles the Heian Period Palaces (794 to 1185) as well as Chinese Tang Dynasty models.

The general structures of Japan are almost always the same: posts and lintels support a large and gently curved roof, while the walls are paper-thin, often movable, and never load-bearing.

The separation between inside and outside is itself, in some measure, not absolute as entire walls can be removed, opening the structure to visitors.

Shitomi, also called hajitomi are square-lattice shutters or doors and are characteristic of the Shinden style and the Heian Period (794-1185).

They are usually split and hinged horizontally; when open, the upper shutter is held up at 90 degrees to the wall with hooks, and the lower half could either be lifted out or folded parallel to the upper shutter. This makes it possible to remove the entire wall and leave just the pillars.

The Shishen-den

The main hall, called the Shishin-den, surrounded by a corridor of white walls and vermillion-red colored pillars, is the most formal hall of the palace. This is where important ceremonies such as ceremonies of the Accession to the Throne were held. The roof was constructed using the traditional method “hiwadabuki.”

The Seiryo-den

The Seiryo-den is a reconstruction in the Heian period style, with a gabled, cypress-thatched roof and shinden-zukuri layout. The main characteristics of the shinden-zukuri are the special symmetry of the group of buildings and the undeveloped space between them. the Seiryo-den was used by the emperor for living quarters.

Even the smallest detail is turned into a work of art.

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The Imperial Palace sits on an immense piece of property that, in turn, sits inside a giant public park.  It is the perfect place to escape Kyoto’s hustle, bustle, and crowds.

The Garden of the Imperial Palace in Kyoto

 Japan, Kyoto
Dec 042023
 

December 3, 2023

I have a passion for Japanese Gardens that verges on obsession.  As one would expect, the garden of the Imperial Palace is near perfect.

The development of gardens in Japan is closely connected to the changing lifestyle of Japan’s nobility and the changes in who holds the power.

During the ninth through twelfth centuries (the Heian period), Japanese gardens followed Chinese models in constructing spacious pond-and-island parks adjacent to their residences. These garden parks were used for entertainment; courtiers strolled through them, traveled along their streams and ponds in small boats, and enjoyed drinking and poetry parties in the tranquil setting.

The following is the Oike-niwa or Imperial Pond Garden.

The bridge is called Keyaki-bashi. As best I could find Keyaki-bashi refers to the Japanese Elm or Zelkova serrata, which is Keyaki in Japanese.

This palace garden was made for retired emperor Gomizunoo. It is a stroll garden with three sections. The long, narrow lake has six bridges and a tortoise island.

The crane (tsuru) and the turtle (kame) are both symbols of longevity. In the Japanese tradition, the crane is said to live 1000 years, while the turtle is considered to have a lifespan of ten thousand years.

The garden dates to the year 1630 and was designed by the famous garden designer and tea master Kobori Enshu.

Generally, bridges in Japanese gardens symbolize a journey, a transition from one state of being to another. They act as connectors, linking various elements of the garden and serving to guide visitors on a thoughtfully curated path through the space.

Arched bridges or Soribashi are iconic features in Japanese gardens, instantly recognizable with their semi-circular arc. They symbolize a difficult journey or crossing over to another world due to their steep incline and thus are commonly associated with the journey to paradise.

Shirahashi, or flat bridges, represent a more straightforward path in life and are usually used to bridge small streams or seemingly arbitrary points in the garden.

This gravel bridge with the moss sides was definitely my favorite.

Garden lanterns were brought to Japan from China in 600 A.D. With the introduction of Buddhism. Silver and stone lanterns were used primarily to illuminate Japanese pagodas and temples. In Buddhism, the light of the lantern represents overcoming the ignorance of darkness.

Lanterns began sprouting up in gardens due to Tea Ceremonies. These special occasions were most often held in the evenings, giving rise to their need. The lanterns were usually placed near water or along a curve in a path.

Tachi-Gata – Also called ‘pedestal lanterns’, have long pedestals and massive construction. Normally, they have a stylized lotus flower at the top. A flower in Japanese culture is a symbol for growing wealth and career progress.

Yukimi-Gata – Also known as “snow viewing” lanterns because they capture snowfall on their broad roof. The origin of these Japanese lanterns dates back to the Edo era. In Japanese culture and civilization, it is thought that Yukimi-Gata lanterns symbolize the cycle of life, particularly the figure of mother. Their other significance is early marriage.

Throughout Japan, you can see hundreds of young and old trees benefiting from human-made supports fashioned from bamboo, burlap and wood timbers. For the young, these structures help manage their growth. Old trees often receive bracing for long, heavy branches, helping extend their life.

Circular bracing under the pine tree

A stunning outbuilding and entry arch alongside the garden.

I am not alone in believing that the traditional Japanese garden is considered one of the most important elements of Japanese art.

These trees were not in the Imperial Garden, but since I am discussing gardens, I thought I would talk about them.  This is daisugi, which roughly translates to platform cedar.

The technique was developed during the Ōei era (1394-1427) in Kitayama as there simply was not enough land, to produce lumber for homes.  Each shoot is pruned every 2 years or so to keep the tree straight and knotless. The entire process takes 20 years and each tree can produce up to 100 off shoots.

The lumber produced in this method is 140% as flexible as standard cedar and 200% as dense/strong, than standard cedar, making it perfect for rafters and roof timber, and making it through typhoons.

Kennin-ji and Sor-ren-in Temples of Kyoto

 Japan, Kyoto
Dec 042023
 

December 2, 2023

The one thing you can get overwhelmed with and then exhausted from is the vast amount of temples in Kyoto.

Over 1600 Buddhist temples are scattered throughout the Kyoto Prefecture, as well as 400 Shinto shrines.  Those are the ones big enough to count. There are countless other small ones.

How do I approach writing about them without boring even myself?  We shall see.

Kennin-ji

Kenninji was founded by Eisai, the Buddhist monk who introduced both Zen Buddhism and tea cultivation to Japan upon returning from study trips to China. The temple was constructed in 1202 and is considered to be the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto.

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Zenkyo-an is a small temple inside the Kennin-ji complex. It dates from 1327 and was founded by the monk Seisetsu. Zenkyo-an is noted for its female deity, Marishiten.

Marishiten-do enshrines the Indian Goddess of Light, Marici, known as Marishiten in Japanese. She is often depicted as either riding on a boar or in a chariot being pulled by boars.

Hallway in Kyushu-in Temple, a part of the Kenyan-ji complex

Sho-ren-in

Shōrenin is one of the city’s monzeki temples, which are temples whose head priests were traditionally members of the imperial family.

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It was nice to get away from the crowds running from “must do” to “must do” on the tourist lists and visit some temples the way they were intended, with quiet and the ability to reflect.

Strolling the Streets of Kyoto

 Japan, Kyoto
Dec 042023
 

December 2023

I spent this morning just doing a Sunday Saunter. It was nice to see a side of Kyoto that has history, beauty, and serenity.

These are a few things that caught my eye.

A small little ray of sunshine outside someone’s front door

A random sign on one of the many, many shopping streets.

The ginkgo trees are beginning to lose their leaves.

As the leaves fell, some took the time to create the perfect Christmas Card.

Some people know how to have all the fun.

Yaji-san & Kita-san on the Sanjō Ōhashi Bridge

During the Edo Period, the Tōkaidō road became the most important route in Japan, connecting the capital Kyoto to Edo. The most popular way to travel the Tōkaidō was by foot, as only the richest being able to rent a kago (A small basketwork palanquin slung from a pole carried on the shoulders of two men.). Because of this Tōkaidō was dotted with inns, but it still was not an easy trek. The number of people traveling through the Tōkaidō route just for sightseeing started to rise after the appearance of a book, Tōkaidōchū Hizakurige, which told of the amusing adventures of two travelers, Yaji-san and Kita-san.  So today, these two are immortalized where their voyage ended.

Someone had the creativity to add art class articulated hands to a mannequin. It gave him a sense of reality and a great way to hold a sign.

I will admit I have a passion for dango, especially matcha dango

Dango is a Japanese dumpling made from rice flour mixed with uruchi rice flour and glutinous rice flour. It is different from mochi, which is made after steaming glutinous rice. 

Not far from my hotel runs the Shirakawa River. It is beautiful both day and night.

The Shirakawa River- means “white river” in Japanese and is so called because it is composed of sand and granite. The water originates in the foothills of Mount Hiei on the outskirts of Kyoto, wends its way through parts of Kyoto, and eventually flows into the Kamo River.

Most Japanese rock gardens in Kyoto have historically used gravel as one of their design elements, sourced from the upper reaches of the Shirakawa River.

It is funny how the streets of Kyoto, outside of the Gion District and the popular tourist destinations, are not crowded and a pleasure to walk.

However, this area is primarily filled with very small mom-and-pop restaurants.  You are reminded of the high number of tourists, as every restaurant is filled to the brim by 7:00 in the evening.  It makes it very difficult to decide on dinner at the spur of the moment.

 

A Rant Regarding Over-Tourism

 Japan, Kyoto
Dec 042023
 

December 2, 2023

I have discussed the fact that it is Momiji-gari season in Japan.  I have attributed a large portion of the crowds to this since the lesser temples appear to be quiet and peaceful.

Today was so bad that it gave even this seasoned traveler pause.  I do not travel to be a part of a horde of people clicking off destinations.  Even worse, hordes that are rude and disrespectful of the local culture.

Today, I wondered why I was here.  But I am not alone. The Japanese actually have a word for what I am seeing: Kankō kōgai, or tourism pollution.

In January of 2023, the Japanese Tourism Board predicted a 450%  year-on-year increase in inbound tourism, and they were probably spot on.  They also predicted an 8.6% increase in domestic travel.

I will grant you, it is a Saturday and a glorious one at that, but this was the crowd in just one small sliver of the vast Kiyomizu-Dera Temple. Yes, Kiyomizu-Dera is best known for this very wooden stage that juts out from its main hall, but who wants to enjoy the view amongst that?

If you are worrying about the safety of being on an ancient platform with a crowd like that, here are the underpinnings of the structure.

Kiyomizu-dera was founded in 780 on the site of the Otowa Waterfall and derives its name from the fall’s pure waters. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Beneath the main hall is the Otowa waterfall, where three channels of water fall into a pond. Visitors can catch and drink the water, which is believed to have wish-granting powers.

The Koyasu is an impressive three-story pagoda complete with a spire, which was designed to house sacred texts and relics. Built between 1607 and 1633 CE, it is an excellent example of Momoyama architecture.

These crowds were just a small sample of what covered the streets of the Higashiyama and Gion Districts.

The area feels more like a movie set or Disneyland than a city.  The streets hawk cheap tourist wares and lots and lots of food.  They are also filled with people who have rented kimonos for the day and stop in the middle of the street, with no respect for anyone around them to shoot a selfie or pose ad nauseam for their friends.

This is a HUGE business in this part of Kyoto, with hundreds of places to rent outfits for the day.

She was a delight to capture and a true reason to stop and rent a kimono.

These girls were lovely and probably having a wonderful time, however, in Japan, drinking coffee and or eating while walking is generally considered impolite and disrespectful. This action even has a name in Japan: Tabearuki (食べ歩き) “eating while walking”. The word is a combination of two Japanese verbs: 食べる (taberu), which means “to eat”, and 歩き (aruki), which means “to walk”.

But why is it disrespectful? One reason Japanese people often give for not eating while walking is that there is a time and place for everything. It is important to develop an appreciation and respect for the seasonality and the geographical origins of flavors and ingredients. Eating while walking is seen as disrespectful to the food and the person preparing it.  If you delve far enough, you may even be able to attribute it to the Shinto Religion, which feels that quiet while eating is imperative, something that is not possible if you are eating in the streets.

This is not a new thing. In the Edo period (1603-1868), the ruling shogunate enforced strict rules regarding behavior and etiquette. These rules included not eating or drinking outside of designated areas, such as inns and tea houses. This was done to prevent people from disturbing the peace or creating a mess on the streets.

Even if the food is displayed on the street, it is not to be eaten on the street. Find a bench or sit inside to consume your treat.

Prior to Covid, Kyoto had been buckling under the strain of over-tourism, with congestion and bad behavior. With etiquette problems becoming so widely reported in the news, some Japanese avoided going to Kyoto.

Kyoto has once again been receiving record numbers of foreign tourists. China lifted its three-year ban on group tours to Japan, and Kyoto is now flooded with Chinese tour groups (along with Korean, Taiwanese, Thai, and others). Western visitors are also coming in record numbers, attracted by the affordability of Japan due to the weak yen.

The result is that Kyoto is now filled to capacity with tourists.

To top it off, Tourism Minister Tetsuo Saito and U.S. Ambassador to Japan Rahm Emanuel signed a memorandum of cooperation to designate 2024 as a year to promote tourism between the two countries.

The number of U.S. visitors to Japan has been steadily increasing, as I said, aided by the depreciation of the yen against the dollar. The monthly figure totaled some 210,000 in October, up by 40% from the same month in 2019, before the pandemic.

I LOVE Kyoto, and this is not a rant against the city or its citizens but against the ridiculous amount of tourists and their bad behavior. I am a firm believer in knowing the culture before you hop on an airplane and respecting it once you get there.  Look but don’t touch, and enjoy the experience – the hell with the Instagram photo. Also, try to learn a few polite phrases in the language of the country you are visiting.  I have attempted to go beyond please, thank you, and good morning in Japan. I am trying hard to learn the language.  I believe I will finally begin to form an entire sentence in 2200.

Kyoto was on the verge of bankruptcy due to covid, as they rely solely on tourism, so this influx is making it profitable for the local businesses, but it is truly turning some parts of Kyoto into a vast phony environment of costumes and tourist traps. Something many Japanese businesses most likely feel isn’t worth the extra profit.

I will avoid the more popular locations as best as possible, and from here forward, I will write about the lesser-known, lesser-trodden parts of Kyoto. (I hope)

 

 

 

Kyoto, Japan – Kinkaku-ji and Ryoanji

 Japan, Kyoto
Dec 012023
 

November 30, 2023

I was in Kyoto with my late husband in 2009, and I have nothing but wonderful memories. I fell in love with Kyoto.  I was not maintaining a website at the time, so my photos, as lovely as they are, sit in photo albums on a shelf. For this reason, I look forward to photographing Kyoto again and putting my experiences in an easily accessible space.

Kinkaku-ji

Kinkaku-ji is a Zen Buddhist temple. In 1397, the third Shogun of Ashikaga took over the area and built the Kitayama palace centered on the Kinkaku, or golden stupa.

For reasons that are still unclear to this day, in 1950, a 22-year-old novice monk named Hayashi Yoken burned the pavilion down before attempting suicide. He survived and was sentenced to seven years in prison.  He was released after being diagnosed with schizophrenia.  The event was memorialized in the ballet RAkU and the book The Temple of the Golden Pavillion by author Yukio Mishima, who, himself is memorialized in the Inujima Museum.

The fishing deck at the rear of the pavilion

The temple grounds are an excellent example of the Muromachi period garden design, considered to be one of the classical ages of Japanese garden design.

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Ryonji Temple

Ryonji is most likely the most famous rock garden in the world. Originally an aristocrat’s villa during the Heian Period, the site was converted into a Zen temple in 1450.

The history of the garden is actually murky. The date of construction is unknown, and there are a number of speculations regarding its designer.

The garden consists of a rectangular plot of pebbles surrounded by low earthen walls, with 15 rocks laid out in small groups on patches of moss. An interesting feature of the garden’s design is that from any vantage point, at least one of the rocks is always hidden from the viewer.

Here are some shots of walking the grounds of Ryoanji with the fall colors taking center stage.

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Momiji-gari at Nanzenji Temple

 Japan, Kyoto
Dec 012023
 

December 1, 2023

The tourists are rather overwhelming in Kyoto at present, and the reason is Momiji-gari. Momiji-gari literally means “hunting red leaves’. It derives from momiji (red leaves or maple tree) and kari (hunting).

I visited three major temples today, and once you realize there is nothing you can do with the teems of people and that this is not a time to visit the temple to see it, but a time to visit the temple to view the changing of the colors, you can sort of just go with the flow.  Sort of being the operative word, it is impossible to describe how many people are here for Momiji-gari.

Nanzenji

The first temple on my list today was Nanzenji.  Nanzenji is one of the most important Zen Buddhist temples in all of Japan. The history of Nanzenji dates back to the mid-13th century when the Emperor Kameyama built his retirement villa at the temple’s present location and later converted it into a Zen temple. All of the buildings were destroyed during the civil wars of the late Muromachi Period (1333-1573)—the oldest of the buildings that stand today dates to after the war.

Your first encounter is the massive Sanmon entrance gate. The gate was constructed in 1628 by the ruling Tokugawa clan for soldiers who died in the siege of Osaka Castle in 1615.

Oddly running through a portion of the grounds is a large brick aqueduct that goes by the name Suirokaku Water Bridge and is part of the Lake Biwa Canal. The Canal was built in the late 1800s during the early part of the Meiji period. The purpose of the Lake Biwa Canal was to help in Kyoto’s development by moving water from the lake to the city. The waterway was used for drinking water, power generators, and transportation. Today, the water from the canal is used for general water supply and firefighting.

The Tenjuan Temple is a small sub-temple dedicated to the Zen master who served Emperor Kameyama in his religious studies. Dating to the 17th century, it is noted for karesansui (dry garden). The garden was named Toranokowatashi (young dragons crossing the water) after the shape of the rocks.  This garden is said to have been designed by a renowned landscape architect, Kobori Enshu, around 1600.

Standing on the second floor of the Sanmon, looking down on one of the many sub-temples.

A piece of broken pottery on the ground near the rock garden

I have always loved the woodwork under the eaves of Japanese temples

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A gentleman sweeping leaves off the roof of a building at the approach to Nanzenji Temple

 

Momiji-gari at Eikando Zenrin-ji Temple

 Japan, Kyoto
Dec 012023
 

December 1, 2023

I would have loved to have taken photos of the structures and walkways of this temple.  However, it was wall-to-wall people, and photos were almost impossible, with the exception of looking out over the rails. I had to go with the flow and simply enjoy the momiji-gari.

Eikando belongs to the Jodo sect of Japanese Buddhism and is one of the most famous places in Kyoto to observe momij-gari.  The amount of people visiting is a testament to that.

Eikando’s main buildings are built alongside the base of a hillside and are connected by wooden corridors.

The Karamon (entry gate) is named after the ancient Korean kingdom of Goguryeo (Kōraiin Japanese). The current structure dates from the late Edo period (mid-19th century).

Exterior, off limits, stairway lined with fall foliage

A small bit of art on the exterior of the main temple

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This is Hojo Pond. Small streams run through the temple grounds and connect to this main pond.

Hojo Pond

A small shrine on the island in Hojo Pond

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Sometimes, one has to slow down and just go with the flow.  As hard as that is for the type-A, I did pretty well.

Ginkakuji – the Silver Pavillion

 Japan, Kyoto
Dec 012023
 

December 1, 2023

Walking the Philosopher’s Path between Eikando Zenrin-ji Temple and The Silver Pavillion

The Philosophers Path

The Philosophers Path follows a canal which is lined by hundreds of cherry trees. It must be spectacular when the cherry blossoms bloom.  It is one of the city’s most popular hanami (cherry blossom viewing) spots.  It was lovely today as well.

The path got its name due to Nishida Kitaro, one of Japan’s most famous philosophers, who was said to practice meditation while walking this route on his daily commute to Kyoto University.

I have mentioned the canal before with regard to the aqueduct that runs through Nanzen-ji.

According to a sign along the canal several blocks away: The canal was a huge undertaking for the economic revitalization of Kyoto. This project began following the transfer of the imperial capital to Edo (now Tokyo) as a result of the Meiji Restoration of 1868.

Sakuro Tanabe (1861-1944) was the individual responsible for the oversight of this sink-or-swim enterprise for the former capital.  Born in Edo as the son of a swordsman towards the last days of the shogunate, young Tanabe proposed the Kyoto-Lake Biwa canalization project in his graduate thesis from the Imperial College.  Kunimichi Kigagaki, the third governor of Kyoto Prefecture, adopted the ambitious plan and put the 23-year-old Tanabe in charge.

The construction of the Kyoto-Lake Biwa canal was almost beyond the limits of Japanese technology at the time.  The project was realized by 4 million workers and funds of 1.25 million yen (1 trillion yen today).  Furthermore, the first appearance in Japan of the shaft boring method in which pits were dug down to the canal route for faster excavation and the combined zeal of Tanabe and the many others involved led to the completion of the project in 1890 after five years of grueling efforts.

After its construction, the canal began to be used for transporting a variety of goods from Lake Biwa to Kyoto, then onward to Osaka, for agricultural irrigation as well as for electricity at Keage, where the first electric train service started in Japan.

The Keage Incline is a former railway line converted into a gently sloping pedestrian trail lined with cherry trees that links the Lake Biwa Canal to Kyoto’s Kamo River.

A class of schoolchildren walking the Kiege Incline

Ojizo-sama along the Philosphers Path

Ginkakuji – the Silver Pavilion

After two temples of Momiji-gari, Ginkakuji was a breath of fresh air.  It was nowhere near as crowded, but for me, it ticked off a lot of the things I look for in a zen garden—water, sand, moss, and peace.

Ginkakuji is a Zen temple. In 1482, shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa built his retirement villa on the grounds of today’s temple, modeled after Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion), his grandfather’s retirement villa. The villa was converted into a Zen temple after Yoshimasa’s death in 1490.

Despite its name, the Silver Pavilion was never covered in silver. Instead, it is believed that the name arose as a nickname more than a century after the building’s construction to contrast it with the Golden Pavilion. Alternatively, it is explained that moonlight reflecting on the building’s dark exterior (which used to be covered in black lacquer) gave it a silvery appearance.

This meticulously maintained dry sand garden is known as the “Sea of Silver Sand”, with its massive sand cone (kogetsudai) named “Moon Viewing Platform”.

The Ginkakuji kogetsudai, whose practical purpose is nonexistent and whose aesthetic purpose can only really be guessed at, is an example of a “contemplative” use of the Zen garden, i.e., the labor-intensive construction and maintenance of the garden itself.

More of the sand garden at Ginkakuji

Ginkakuji is also known for its moss garden

A stone path climbs a hill where you can see the entire temple grounds and the city beyond.

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The slowly fading sun in the swaying bamboo

It has been an exhausting day, but a stunningly beautiful one as well.

The Art Island of Naoshima

 Japan, Naoshima
Nov 272023
 

November 2023

I have been on the art islands before and have written extensively about it.  However, there are a few new installations that deserve to be written about.

One of the more enjoyable is Narcissus Garden by Yayoi Kusama.  This is part of a new area titled Valley Gallery, which encompasses another of my favorite pieces, Slag Buddha 88, which I had seen before.

Slag Buddha in the middle surrounded by Narcissus Garden

Slag Buddhaa 88 was created using slag from the Industrial waste of Teshima.  It is a permanent installation created in 2006 by Tsuyaoshi Ozawa.  Slag Buddha 88 belongs in the context of Ozawa’s “Jizoing” series, the artist’s debut work, and his B.A. thesis work. That work was comprised of photographs of jizo he created and placed in landscapes while traveling to various places as a student.

Using motifs from the statues of Buddha created and located in 88 places across Naoshima during the Edo period following the “Shikoku Pilgrimage of 88 Places,” Ozawa created statues out of slag yielded in the process of incineration of industrial waste that had been illegally dumped on Teshima.

Narcissus Gallery begins with a Tadao Anda building.  As you approach the building, you are overwhelmed with these stainless steel orbs that draw you into the building.

 

This installation made its debut at the 33rd Venice Biennale in 1966. Kusama was not officially invited to exhibit. She says she received permission from the chairman of the Biennale Committee to stage 1,500 mass-produced plastic silver globes on the lawn outside the Italian Pavilion.

During the opening week, Kusama placed two signs at the installation: “NARCISSUS GARDEN, KUSAMA” and “YOUR NARCISSIUM FOR SALE” on the lawn. Acting like a street peddler, she was selling the mirror balls to passers-by for two dollars each. The Biennale officials eventually stepped in and put an end to her “peddling.” But the installation remained.
The first thing you encounter when walking onto the grounds of the Valley Gallery is a pond filled with Kusama’s silver orbs.
If you stand long enough and it is quiet enough, you can enjoy the sound the balls make as much as their movement.

Narcissus Garden is featured inside of the Valley Gallery by Tadao Ando. * * *
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Inujima Art Museum

 Inojima, Japan, Naoshima
Nov 272023
 

November 26, 2023

Sometimes, you trip upon a magical space and relish in its uniqueness.  I am at Nashima for the second time because I was unable to get to the island of Inujima on my previous trip.

I am so glad I returned. It was worth it just to explore this amazing project.

The museum (above) is a tribute to Japanese writer Yukio Mishima (1925-1970), who famously attempted a coup d’état in post-war Japan and committed seppuku immediately upon its failure.

In 1995, artist Yukinori Yanagi envisioned revitalizing the island with contemporary art.  In April of 2008, Yanagi, collaborating with the architect Hiroshi Sambuichi, launched the project Seirensho (refinery). The building is a collaboration of architecture and science. The intent was a regional revitalization through the reuse of the island’s industrial heritage. The museum was built based on the concept of ‘using what exists to create what is to be’.

There are no photographs allowed in the museum, which is an amazing spatial experience and one of beauty, wonder, and education.  The following two photos are from the internet.

This photo is from the Benesse Art Site. Here is a description from the book I bought about the museum:  There is a narrow opening between the dark semi-circular wall and the side wall.  A water pool on a huge rock placed in the center of the room reflects the light.  The circular light is intended to evoke the image of a total eclipse.  The wood fittings and building parts were from Yukio Mishima’s dismantled house. The room that appears to be floating above the rock represents his private, three-tatami mat room.

This room is more exquisite than it appears in the photo.  In the middle of the space stands a structure made of fittings from the second-floor eight-tatami room of Mishimas’s house.  Chains of golden letters are suspended from the beams. Placed in the middle of the structure is a travel trunk.  The artist Yanagi mentions Pandora when describing this work. Pandora opened the box, and only hope remained when the box was closed again.  The suitcase, once owned by Mishima, now remains closed.

These are just two of the truly lovely portions of the museum.

What is also just spectacular is the site itself.  The island had a history of quarrying granite that was used in the area’s feudal castles.

A temple on the island utilizing the granite quarried on the island

In 1909, a copper refinery was built on the island, but it lasted only ten years due to a sudden fall in the price of copper and various changes in the economy.  The factory has sat idle, untouched, and crumbling ever since.  This is probably more understandable when you know that the population of the island in 2017 was a mere 47 people.

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I personally could not get enough of the Karami brick, a by-product of the refining process.  It feels like the entire original copper smelting operation was built of this brick.  There are millions of these bricks, but no history that I could find about the copper operation itself and how so much of the operation was built with these slag bricks.

17,000 of the bricks were recycled into the building of the museum.

The above and below are from a small educational space/bookstore at the end of the art exhibit.

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What you walk away from after spending time here is that modernization is not necessarily synonymous with high-tech solutions.

Art around the Island of Inujima

 Inojima, Japan, Naoshima
Nov 272023
 

November 26, 2023

Inujima, while centered on the museum, also has a few scattered “art houses”.  This is, after all, a Benesse Project. The three islands hold a Triennale with site-specific art that remains after the show is over.

Art House F

Biota (Fauna/Flora) 2013

This piece is by Kohei Nawa. The architect was Kazuyo Sejima.

Art House F Inujima

The description of the art in the house: Using variously shaped small art objects that remind of plants and animals, as well as sculptures made from the surface of diverse materials, Nawa created a dynamic space encompassing countless works as well as the building itself and its courtyards.

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Art house S

This piece is by Haruka Kojin. The work distorts the shape and size of the surrounding scenery through the use of numerous lenses of varying sizes and focuses.

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Art House I

Self-loop 2015

This is by Olafur Eliasson. In this work, three mirrors were installed connecting the landscapes that are visible through the windows on two sides of the house. One precise point, positioned in the center of the work, allows viewers to stand in the exact center of an infinite tunnel.

Former site of a stonecutter’s house

Listen to the Voices of Yesterday Like the Voices of Ancient Times 2016

The above was done in two stages by Yusuke Asai.  The white paintings can also be spotted in other places around the island.

There is more art on the island. These are the ones that spoke to me.  Here are some random shots I took while walking through the area.

As the demand for the island’s industries declined so did the island’s population.

As of 2017 the islands population was a mere 47 people.

Around the island, I spotted Shou Sugi Ban. It is a decorative and architectural wood-burning technique that has been used for centuries in Japan. This traditional Japanese wood preservation method involves voluntarily charring wood to create a textural surface that is beautiful to look at.

Due to the decline in population on the island many homes have been abandoned.

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A visit to Inujima is an exploration of the past and, a calm, leisurely way to explore art.

Reflections of Naoshima, Inujima and Teshima

 Japan, Naoshima
Nov 272023
 

November2023

I have been to Naoshima and Teshima before, and this visit was to explore Inujima. Here are some photos from all three islands that show their beauty and serenity.

Chichu Art Museum by Tadeo Ando – Photos are not allowed inside the museum, but this gives one a sense of the serenity when visiting Chichu

Chichu Museum by Tadeo Ando

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Sunrise from my balcony

Mt Fuji from the bullet train

Tokyo Tower

 Japan, Tokyo
Nov 252023
 

November 19, 2023

This is not my first trip to Japan. It is one of my favorite countries to explore.  However, this time, I am staying for seven weeks and concentrating on getting to know the country in a more relaxed and deeper way.

That being said, there are always the typical things one must do, so the first few days I have spent doing just that.  I visited sites I have fond memories of, the first being the Tokyo Tower.

Tokyo Tower

 

The tower’s real name is “Nippon Denpatō” (“Japan Radio Tower”), but no one calls it that.

I don’t know if it is the color that reminds me of the Golden Gate Bridge. They are both International Orange.  Or my passion for steel structures that brings me back to admire this wonderful piece of architecture over and over.

The views help but don’t completely convey the size and complexity of Tokyo.

A view of Tokyo Bay from Tokyo Tower

You can not help but notice it looks a heck of a lot like the Eiffel Tower.  Tokyo Tower was based on the Eiffel Tower, and yet it is 29 1/2 feet taller than the Eiffel Tower. Thus, Tokyo Tower was the tallest freestanding tower in the world when it was built. The tower weighs 4000 tons, and the Eiffel Tower weighs 7700 tons. The amount of iron used in building the Tokyo Tower is half the amount used in making the Eiffel Tower.

A view from the Lower Observation Deck

Hisakichi Maeda, founder and president of Nippon Denpatō, wanted the tower to be higher than the Empire State Building. Unfortunately, the funds and the materials were not enough to accomplish that.

A view from Tokyo Tower

The designer was Tachū Naitō, who was already a renowned designer of tall buildings in Japan.

I was so lucky that it was a clear enough day that I was able to see Mt Fuji from Tokyo Tower.

The tower was built in 1958 to serve the expanding demand for transmission towers from television stations in Tokyo. Rather than build multiple television towers all over the city, it was decided to build one tower at such a height that TV signals could be transmitted across a city as large as Tokyo from a single location, a distance of about 93 miles.

The Skytree in the distance

The Skytree knocked the Tokyo Tower off the pedestal of highest building in Tokyo. The Skytree is a broadcasting and observation tower. It is the tallest structure in Japan, the tallest tower in the world, and the third tallest structure in the world after the Merdeka and the Burj Khalifa.

Tokyo Skytree

A few more views of Tokyo Tower. I really do love this building.

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Finding the Ancient Among the Modern

 Japan, Tokyo
Nov 252023
 

November 19, 2023

Looking down on San’-en-zan Kodo-in Zojoji Temple

Zojoji was founded by the priest Yuyo Shoso in 1393 as the first Jodo Buddhist practice hall in the area. During the Edo period (1600-1868), it was the family temple of the Tokugawa shoguns, becoming the center of all Jodo Shu temples in Japan.  At its peak, the temple grounds held more than 120 buildings with approximately 3000 priests.

Buddhism declined during the Meiji period (1868-1912), and then over the years almost all of the Zojoji buildings were lost to fire, natural disasters, or destroyed in the bombings of World War II. The temple was gradually restored and now functions mostly as a cultural center.

 

The entry gate to the Shogun Mausoleum

There is a mausoleum on the property that holds the remains of 6 shoguns, these all survived the years with very little damage.

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Jizo

The Kojoji temple has a long line of Ojizo-sama running along the edges (also called Jizo, also or O-Jizo-san).  Ojizo-sama is a bodhisattva and is one of the most beloved figures of Japanese Buddhism. You will see them absolutely everywhere.

Ojizo

The Jizo is often seen as a protector of children. The story goes, that the souls of children who die before their parents are not capable of crossing the fabled Sanzu River (similar to the Styx river in Greek mythology) in the afterlife. This is because they have not had the time to do enough good deeds (karma) and they have made their parents suffer. Therefore, O-Jizo-sama is widely recognized as the patron of dead children, especially still-born and aborted children.

Ueno Tokyo

 Japan, Tokyo
Nov 252023
 

November 2023

For my first week in Tokyo, I am staying in the Ueno district in Taito Ward.  The biggest attraction is Ueno Park.  Ueno is a working-class area that is beginning to become popular and is adjusting to a tourist clientele.

There are two central portions of Ueno, the Park, and the Ameyoko area.

The origins of Ameyoko started in post-war black-market commerce, where stalls would sell a range of products from sweets and snacks to used American military wear. An edgy aspect still remains to this commercial area.

Ueno Park is the home to Japan’s largest zoo and the original home of the first pandas brought to Japan from China.  Therefore, Pandamonium is what you get throughout Ueno.

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Ameyoko is a vibrant and busy street for all types of commerce.

Ameyoko

Ameyoko is also known for its street food and bar food.

A quick tempura meal in Ameyoko

The owner and chef at BiBiBi – a great 3-table restaurant in the Ueno Area

Various meatballs make for great classic bar food

Street food in Ueno

Wandering the Streets

The Asakusa and Ueno neighborhoods mesh together, so walking the streets, you find many odd and curious things.  These cups and chef are part of the cookware area of Asakusa.

This giant chef was installed in March 1982 when Niimi renovated its building. He is 36 feet tall. This unforgettable guy has since spawned numerous urban legends, and according to the most popular rumor, it is actually a giant robot in disguise, the rest of its body hidden in the building, and will be activated when Tokyo faces a Godzilla-class danger.

Wandering Japan can throw you for a loop, as the juxtaposition between an important graveyard or temple and the local body shop means that if you make assumptions, you can miss a lot of things.

Hanashi Zuka (Grave of Censored Stories)

At the onset of World War II, the Japanese Imperial government created the censorship committee. They banned any works of art that disrespected the emperor, criticized the military, or were “against public policy.”

Rakugo, the Japanese art of comic storytelling, was not spared, as some tales dealt with sexuality and alcohol. In 1941, Rakugo performers gathered at Honpō-ji Temple to hold a funeral for the censored stories. They ceremoniously buried the scripts of  53 tales. After the war, in September of 1946, The Revival Festival of Abolished Plays was held in front of the Mound. Today, scripts of comic stories played in wartime are stored in the mound.

This altar, surrounded by dogs, can be found on the same temple grounds as the Hanashi Zuka.

This is a very quick look at the streets of Ueno.  The massive Ueno Park will be next.

 

 

Ueno Park

 Japan, Tokyo
Nov 252023
 

November 2023

Ueno Park sits on land that once belonged to Kan’ei-ji, founded in 1625 in the unlucky direction to the northeast of Edo Castle. Most of the temple buildings were destroyed in the Battle of Ueno in 1868 during the Boshin War when the Tokugawa shogunate was defeated by those wanting to restore the emperor to power.

The triumphant emperor gifted the land to the nation.

Benten-dō Temple

Benten-dō Temple is located on a small artificial island on Shinobazu Pond in Ueno Park. The pond is chock a block full of lotus flowers. Benten-do is part of the Kan’ei-ji complex.

The temple is also surrounded by various memorials.  This is the Fugu Tsuitō-hi, or the Blowfish Memorial. The Tokyo Fugu Cuisine Association dedicated it to the spirits of the fugu. The monument is offered in gratitude and in the hope that there are no future deaths by poisoning.

Memorial to Fugu

This memorial is dedicated to the biwa, or Japanese Lute.

A spout that fills the ceremonial ablution pool.

This is dedicated to the Shamisen Strings—the three-string traditional Japanese instrument.

Part of the Toeizan Kan’eiji Temple, this five-story pagoda is one of the remaining buildings. First built in 1631 and rebuilt in 1639, the pagoda is about 118 feet high from the ground to the hoju (uppermost spherical part) and has a five-tiered structure. The roof of the fifth and uppermost floors is covered in copper sheets, while the rest of the roofs are in traditional Japanese ceramic tiles.  The pagoda is technically in the zoo, so I was only able to glimpse it from the park.

The Toshogu Shrine

First established in 1627 by Tōdō Takatora and renovated in 1651 by Tokugawa Iemitsu, the Toshogu shrine has remained mostly intact since that time, making it a great example of Shinto architecture in the Edo period.  It is truly stunning.

One of the more spectacular points of the Toshogu Shrine is the karamon. A karamon is a type of gate in Japanese architecture characterized by the use of karahafu,  a type of curved gable with a style particular to Japan.  This karamon was built in 1651.

Some of the beautiful wood carvings along the walls of the shrine.

This is the Kiyomizu Kannon-do,  first established in the early 1630s, when it was one of the structures of Kaneiji Temple. It has been in its present location since the 1690s.  The tree is the famous Moon Pine, with branches creating a circle right in front of the balcony.

Saigo Takamori was one of the most influential samurai in all of Japan. A man often dubbed as the ‘last true samurai.
Takamori was the inspiration behind the film ‘The Last Samurai’. A man of many talents, Takamori led Japanese fighters during the 1877 Satsuma Rebellion and also wrote poetry under the name Saigo Nanshu.

This is a small sampling of the historic, interesting, and fun things to be found in Ueno Park.  If that is not enough for you, the park is also home to these Six Museums:

1. National Museum of Nature and Science
2. Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum
3. Tokyo National Museum
4. Ueno Royal Museum
5. National Museum of Western Art
6. Shitamachi Museum

One can ride the swan boats on the pond in Ueno Park in view of Tokyo Skytree.

 

The Hotel New Otani Garden of Tokyo

 Japan, Tokyo
Jan 092018
 

January 2018

Most large, high-end, hotels place a Japanese restaurant near some form of Japanese Garden, the Hotel New Otani goes one step further.

The Hotel New Otani GardenIn the middle of Downtown Tokyo, this stunning garden is free to anyone that desires to walk around.

The garden was first part of the estate of samurai lord Kato Kiyomasa over 400 years ago.  Eventually, the land was turned over to the Ii family, dominant in the Shogunate Government of the Edo period.

Hotel New Otani Tokyo GardenLater, in the Meiji period, the land became the property of the Fushiminomiya family, then a branch of the imperial house. After the Second World War, the property was sold to Yonetaro Otani, the founder of Hotel New Otani, who established his private residence on the property and renovated the garden into what it is today.

Koi at the Hotel New Otani Tokyo GardenThe Hotel New Otani opened on September 1st, 1964 to coincide with the Tokyo Olympics. Its construction was requested by the Japanese government in order to fill a perceived shortage of hotel space for foreign visitors to the Olympics. Yonetaro Otani, a former sumo wrestler who founded and ran a small steel company, agreed to build a hotel on the site keeping the original garden.

Garden at the Hotel New Otani, TokyoThe Garden has undergone some changes when an addition to the hotel and an office building were built on the site, but it is still worth a stop in the busy hustle of downtown Japan

Japanese GardenThe hotel was a filming location for the 1967 James Bond film You Only Live Twice, where it appeared as the headquarters of Osato Chemicals, the Japanese front for SPECTRE.

Japanese Garden TokyoThe New Otani also hosted the world leaders who attended the funeral of Emperor Hirohito in 1989 and those who attended the enthronement of Emperor Akihito in 1990.  The hotel has seen the likes of many a foreign dignitary.

dsc_3434 *Japanese Bridge in a Japanese Garden *Hotel New Otani Garden*Hotel New Otani Garden Fence

The Art Houses of Naoshima

 Japan, Naoshima
Jan 022018
 

January 2018

The Art House Project was a large leap into the lives of the locals of Naoshima Island.  There are many articles out about how the local people were not sure about the entire Benesse project, and how through the years they have learned more and more about contemporary art, and have learned to love the project, the art, and I am sure, the employment that comes with it.

The Art House Project involves older houses in the Honmura Port area of Naoshima remodeled into works of art.  There are seven projects, and photos are not allowed in any of them.

In the Honmura Port area is also the Ando Museum

The Ando Museum

The Ando Museum opened in March 2013. The museum is designed by the man it is named after, Ando Tadao, and is an homage to himself.

The Ando Museum looks like the regular, 100-year-old traditional residence that it is, from the outside, blending in perfectly into the town’s neighborhood. The inside of the building, however, combines traditional interior design with Ando’s signature use of concrete, creating a rather intriguing atmosphere with small unique spaces. The interior is truly a work of art in concrete.   Entry is ¥510 and is closed on Mondays – as is most everything within the Benesse Properties, with the exception of the Benesse House Museum.

For the remaining Art-Houses, you purchase a card for entry to all at ¥1030 or each individually for ¥410

Minamidera

Minamidera

Minamidera is a new building, and it was designed by Tadao Ando to accommodate the works of James Turrell. The vicinity was once home to five temples and shrines, as well as the ruins of a castle, making it the center of history and culture in Naoshima. The name Minamidera (literally “southern temple”) seeks to preserve the idea that the temples which once stood here were emotional support for the people.

The Turrell installation is all about light, so if one is claustrophobic it is not a good house to visit.  It is an interactive exhibit and allows only 5 to 8 people in at one time, approximately every 15 minutes. During the holiday season, this was the only line I stood in, and that was for a mere 5 minutes.

Kadoya

Kadoya

Kadoya was the first building in the Art House Project to be completed. The house was constructed roughly 200 years ago, and it was restored to its original appearance with a stucco finish, smoked cedar boards (shou shugi ban), and traditional roof tiles. The townspeople of Naoshima participated in the creation of the work Sea of Time ’98 by Tatsuo Miyajima inside the main room of the home.

The Go'o House

Gokaisho

The name Gokaisho (literally “place to play go”) is derived from the long-ago custom of the islanders gathering here to play the game of go. Yoshihiro Suda converted the structure into an art space, and his work Tree of Spring, inspired by the work Falling Camellia by Hayami Gyoshu, is displayed in one of the two rooms.

Suda has several pieces throughout the island.  I first spotted his work in the Bennese House Museum, there appeared to be weeds growing out of the concrete wall, it was a lovely exhibit titled “Weeds” by Sudo made of painted wood.  The wood is so incredibly thin as to look exactly like a leaf.  In the hallway to the Terrace Restaurant is one of the camellias that is in Gokaisho.

A Camellia by

A Camellia by Yoshihiro Suda

Haisha

Haisha

Haisha, meaning “dentist”,  Shinro Otake converted this dentist’s home and office into a very intriguing work of art. The house incorporates an eclectic array of stylistic elements. The title of the work is Dreaming Tongue.

Ishibashi

Ishibashi

Formerly the home of the Ishibashi family, who made their fortune producing salt in the Meiji Period, it was used as a private home until April 2001. The salt-making industry supported the livelihood of people in Naoshima for many years, and restoring the home was considered important to understanding the history and culture of Naoshima. Hiroshi Senjyu spent five years from the original conception of the idea of developing the entire space of this “tangible memory” into a work of art. Senjyu kept most of the home intact, and added his own paintings, it is in spectacular shape and is truly a work of Japanese architecture nicely blended with Japanese art.

The Go'o Shrine

The Go’o Shrine

This shrine sits atop of a hill, very close to a working temple.  It is a stunning piece of artwork. The artist is Hiroshi Sugimoto  A flight of glass stairs links an underground stone chamber with the main hall. The main hall and worship hall are based on the style of early shrine architecture, as well as the artist’s own aesthetic sensibility.

A beautiful set of glass stairs is easily seen above ground

A beautiful set of glass stairs is easily seen above ground

Naoshima Go'o shrine

You are then given a flashlight and sent slightly down the hill to a very, very, very narrow corridor.

The stairway underground

The stairway underground

These wonderful pieces sit amongst the small town of Honmura.  Honmura is a wonderful area to wander and explore.

Naoshima Hall

Naoshima Hall

Naoshima hall, designed by architect Hiroshi Sambuichi is a multi-purpose facility, consisting of the main hall, a community center, and a garden. It utilizes the island’s prevailing winds to circulate air inside the hall

The hall took the top spot in the Best New Public Building category of the 2017 Wallpaper* Design Awards, presented by the British magazine of the same name. This was the first time that a Japanese architect had received the award.

Naoshima I love hot waterOne other exhibit space is at Miyanoura Port titled Bath House.  It is actually a bathhouse, and the only way to view the art inside is to take a bath, but the building is fun to examine from the outside as well. The facility was created by artist Shinro Ohtake and is operated by the Town-Naoshima Tourism Association.  The place is actually called  “I♥︎湯” and is a play on words, the Japanese character for hot water (湯) is read as yu.

Naoshima Art *I love you bath house *Naoshima Bath

Due to the season, many of the art galleries are closed, but it is still easy to get your fill of art and architecture at Benesse.

The town of Miyanoura is also a very sweet town and worth walking around, here are a few shots of that town:

The local shrine, directly across from the port is lovely and historic

The local shrine, directly across from the port is lovely and historic

Not far from the port is a cemetery. It was the New Year so flowers were everywhere.

Not far from the port is a cemetery. It was the New Year so flowers were everywhere.

Watering vessels at the cemetery

Watering vessels at the cemetery

Someone's stunning front yard

Someone’s stunning front yard

Flowers are doorsteps are classically Japanese, I loved these accompanied by seashells.

Flowers are doorsteps are classically Japanese, I loved these accompanied by seashells.

I will end this post with some fun photos taken around the Honmura area.

Honmura, Naoshima *Naoshima

Naoshima Critters These critters are all over townNaoshima CrittersI found this sign in one store, I hope it tells you the artists name, but I don’t read Japanese.
Naoshima Critters

dsc_2920 *Honmura, Naoshima *dsc_2916 *dsc_2913 * Honmura, Naoshima*

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I stayed in Benesse for a total of 5 days, and it was most likely one day too short.  I would have liked the opportunity to visit the island of Inujima, but it was closed for much of the time I was in the area and cramming it into the one day it was open and I had time, simply became unfeasible.

Benesse is truly an amazing experience and a must for anyone that loves architecture or art.

An Art and Architecture Heaven on Earth – Benesse Art Site

 Japan, Naoshima
Jan 022018
 

January 2018
Benesse – To Live Well

Pumpkin by Yoyoi Kusama is the signature piece of Naoshima Island. The Yellow Pumpkin sits on a pier in front of the Benesse Park Hotel

“Pumpkin” by Yoyoi Kusama is the signature piece of Naoshima Island. The Yellow Pumpkin sits on a pier in front of the Benesse Park Hotel

The biggest employer on Naoshima is a Mitsubishi metals processing plant, but due to automation, and therefore, downsizing, the population of the island dropped from around 8,000 in the 1950s and 1960s to a little over 3,000 now.

The island has been “saved” by art thanks to Benesse Holdings, an education, and publishing conglomerate best-known for Berlitz, the language school company.

The Bennese Park Museum houses one of the larger restaurants, The Terrace, as well as a few small rooms for hanging out and gazing at the sea. Cylinder Bisected by Plane by Dan Graham sits in the middle of this photo

The Benesse Park houses one of the larger restaurants, The Terrace, as well as a few small public rooms for hanging out and gazing at the sea. “Cylinder Bisected by Plane” by Dan Graham sits in the middle of this photo

Looking out from the 2nd floor of the Benesse Park to the Terrace Restaurant and Benesse Beach

Looking out from the 2nd floor of the Benesse Park to the Terrace Restaurant and The Beach Hotel

According to Becoming, a book on the creation of Benesse, Benesse opened with the aim of providing visitors with a luxurious stay surrounded by works of art in a natural environment. The former head of Benesse Holdings, the late Soichiro Fukutake, had dreamed of opening a campground for children from all over the world, he met with the then town mayor of Naoshima, the late Chikatsugu Miyake who had wanted to create an environmentally friendly cultural and educational district in the southern part of the island.  These two men formed a mutual agreement to develop the island of Naoshima. Activities commenced with a trial camp for children, operated by employees of Fukutake Publishing. The offshoot of this was Fukutake’s company buying a huge piece of land and hiring world-famous architect Tadao Ando to design museums and luxury lodgings that now make up the Bennese Art Site. 

One part of "Shipyard Works" by Shinro Ohtake

One part of “Shipyard Works” by Shinro Ohtake

The first art project for the site was Open Air ’94 Out of Bounds, organized as an outdoor exhibition space in 1994. Out of Bounds referred to the crossing of borders in hope that Naoshima be linked to the rest of the world.  Pumpkin (the yellow one) by Yayoi Kusama was debuted in this exhibition, as well as Shipyard Works by Hinro Ohtake and Time Exposed by Hiroshi Sugimoto.

There are four places within the Benesse properties to stay.  The Oval, The Park,  The Beach and The Benesse House Museum. Each has its own unique flavor and varying prices.

Dining is difficult, there are a few restaurants on the island, but the hotels have several dining rooms, and while pricey, the food is world class.  You can choose between Japanese or European cuisine in many of them.  Others are fixed menus by phenomenal chefs.

There are other less pricey places to stay on the island, off of the Benesse properties, and the entire island is accessible by a free bus if you are staying within the Benesse properties or a ¥100 public bus.

There are ten rooms available within the Benesse House Museum, and you are allowed to wander the hotels after closing to enjoy the art.

There are ten rooms available within the Benesse House Museum, and you are allowed to wander the hotel after closing to enjoy the art.

The Oval sits atop the highest peak on Naoshima. It has only 6 rooms, all with spectacular views. Access to the oval is through a funicular that requires your room key for access, making The Oval a very private retreat.

The Oval sits atop the highest peak on Naoshima. It has only 6 rooms, all with spectacular views. Access to the oval is through a funicular that requires your room key for access, making The Oval a very private retreat.

Water flows from the streams above the Oval, through the eternity pool in the middle of the structure and out to sea.

At The Oval water flows down a waterfall and into an eternity pool suggesting the concept of water flowing from the mountain streams to the ocean.

The Oval at Benesse on Naoshima Island

Every room in all of the accommodations have fine art in them. This particular one is in the Oval by David Tremlett

Every room in all of the accommodations has fine art in them. This particular one is in The Oval and painted directly on the wall by David Tremlett.  Many of the others contain framed drawings or paintings.

The Benesse Art Site group has truly thought of everything.  You are handed reams of information upon check-in, and every staff member I have encountered is well versed in all the ins and outs of the island.  English is spoken by most everyone, and in fact, it is now been added to the school curriculum on the island.

One of the inner-island ferries in Miyanoura Port

One of the inner-island ferries in Miyanoura Port

There are two ports on Naoshima, and getting here is done via ferry from Takamatsu to the Miyanoura Port, there are five throughout the day, with more added during the summer. Timing your arrival to and from the airport should be taken into consideration.  The ferry ride is ¥510. There are locals that take cars onto the island, via the car ferry, but most transportation is bike, moped, feet or public bus.

Blind Blue Landscape is a site-specific work by Teresita Fernandez in the corridor to the Terrace Restaurant

Blind Blue Landscape is a site-specific work by Teresita Fernandez in the corridor to the Terrace Restaurant

I am here during the Christmas/New Year holiday season.  That is considered high season price wise, but it is a divine time to come as the crowds are minimal.  The hotels are full, but no reservations are needed for the exhibits, and a wait of 10 minutes for a timed exhibit is all I have suffered.  In 2016, 800,000 people visited the island for the Triennial, I can not imagine fighting that type of crowd.

These two boats are part of a piece by Jennifer Bartlett. There is a three part canvas in the museum with the two boats painted, and two of the boats sitting on the floor in front, then as you look out the glass towards the sea, there are these two boats set in the same position on the same beach that is in the painting

These two boats are part of a piece by Jennifer Bartlett. There is a three-part canvas in the museum with the two boats painted, and two of the boats sitting on the floor in front, then as you look out the glass towards the sea, there are these two boats set in the same position on the same beach that is in the painting

Photography is not allowed in any of the museums, so a purchase of the book Remain in Naoshima, is the best guide to the collection, however, there are many outdoor installations that can be photographed.  The lack of descriptions of the art was the only place I feel they missed a beat. Most pieces were marked solely with the name of the piece, the date, and the artist.  The book Remain in Naoshima is in each room, so studying the pieces is easy if you are so inclined, but the stories to many of the pieces are of interest, and much I did not learn until I returned to the room and flipped through the book.

The view from room 405 of The Oval

The view from room 405 of The Oval

Chichu Museum

The Chichu museum (literally museum underground) is another Tadeo Ando creation, built in 2014 it is on the southern portion of the island. The building is a stunning piece of architecture all by itself. The site features only three artists, with permanent installations, these are by Walter De Maria and James Turrell, as well as painted works in the Water Lilies series by Claude Monet.  These are said to be the only paintings by Monet that can be viewed in natural light, and you take your shoes off to enter the gallery. – Tickets for the Chichu Museum are ¥2060, you purchase a ticket at a small building then walk through a sweet little garden to reach the entryway to the actual museum.

The Lee Ufan Museum

The Lee Ufan Museum

Opened in time for the 2010 Setouchi Triennale, the Lee Ufan Museum is one of the more recent additions to the Benesse collection. The museum features works by the Korean contemporary artist Lee Ufan, who was born in Korea but has been working and teaching in Japan. On display are large installations made of stone, concrete and huge slabs of iron, as well as a number of paintings from earlier in his career. This building was also designed by Tadeo Ando, and like his other buildings, it is filled with different geometric shapes in reinforced concrete and stunning outdoor spaces. The entry to the Lee Ufan Museum is ¥1030.

The entry to the museum is on the right hand side of the building as to not disturb the elegance of the front.

The entry to the museum is on the left-hand side of the building as to not disturb the elegance of the front.

Just before entering you encounter this pottery piece by Ufan, after that, no photos are allowed.

Just before entering you encounter this pottery piece by Ufan, after that, no photos are allowed.

There is a huge selection of outdoor sculptures spread throughout the property, you can pick up a map from any of the front desks and enjoy the day wandering and seeking them out.

The stairway goes up and over Seen/Unseen Known/ Unknown by Walter de Maria. This sits near the Benesse private pier with other outdoor sculpture

The stairway goes up and over Seen/Unseen Known/ Unknown by Walter de Maria. This sits near the Benesse private pier with other outdoor sculpture

The red pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama greets you at the Miyanoura Ferry Terminal

“Red Pumpkin” by Yayoi Kusama greets you at the Miyanoura Ferry Terminal

Looking down at Pumpkin from The Oval

Looking down at “Pumpkin” from The Oval

This post has been about the Bennese Art Site, read the next post for information about the town itself, and more art.

New Years in Japan

 Japan
Dec 312017
 

Like many countries, New Years preparations begin before the actual day. There is a very large Shinto Shrine, also called the Hokkaido Shrine Jingu at Marayuma Park in Sapporo.  The snow conditions made a trip there difficult, so I visited the local version closer to town, near the Nijo Fish Market.

It was a few days before the New Year and I wanted to pick up some blessing amulets and place an ema (pronounced emma) at the shrine.

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Ema’s on the right ( “picture-horse”) are small wooden plaques, common to Japan, in which Shinto and Buddhist worshippers write prayers or wishes. The ema are left hanging up at the shrine, where the kami (spirits or gods) are believed to receive them

Ema are prayer boards that are related to an old tradition of donating horses to shrines. It’s popular to write your wishes for the coming year on an ema at New Years.

New Years in Japan

Omikuji

Omikuji are fortunes that are available at shrines and temples. Your fortune is determined by choosing a stick from a specially designed box.

New Years is a natural time for people to be curious about their future. If you get a bad fortune it’s customary to leave it behind at the shrine by tying it at the designated spot.

I am actually spending New Year’s Eve on the island of Naoshima and have been wandering and appreciating the signs of the New Year.

New Years in Japan

A few days after Christmas, the entrances to many homes, stores, and buildings in Japan are decorated with a pine and bamboo kadomatsu. This decoration is prepared to welcome the Shinto gods and derives from the Shinto belief that the god spirits reside in trees. Furthermore, the display of pine and bamboo expresses the desire to obtain virtue and strength to overcome adversity.

New Years in Japan

Entrances to ordinary homes are decorated with a shimenawa braided straw rope. Like the kadomatsu, it signifies that the home has been purified in order to welcome the gods.

New Years in Japan

Kagami Mochi is a New Years decoration that traditionally consists of two mochi rice cakes with a daidai fruit on top. They are associated with longevity and are eaten on the first weekend after New Years.

You will often see them out of plastic as well

You will often see them out of plastic as well

Soba Noodles for New Years in Japan
You must have soba noodles at some point in the evening, or  “Toshikoshi-Soba” when eaten on the night of New Year’s Eve. The reason and origin are not clear but the general theory is that people eat Toshikoshi-Soba with the hopes that they can live thin (frugally) but long, just like Soba noodles, in the coming year.

Ring in the New Year in Japan

In the evening you head to the temple to ring in the New Year and warm yourself by the fire

New Years in Japan

Then there is sake. A drink of O-toso first thing on New Years Day is said to ward off sickness for the entire year ahead, as well as invite peace.  There are rituals surrounding the serving and drinking of O-toso, at Bennesse House it was served a few times during the day and in various different ways.

Serving spiced sake in the morning at Bennesse House

Serving spiced sake in the morning at Bennesse House

Later in the day sweet sake was served in the traditional shallow bowls

Later in the day sweet sake was served in the traditional shallow bowls

New Years in Japan

Like any country in the world, there are, I am sure, far more rituals, but these are the ones I observed or took part in.
New Years in Japan

*Japanese Shrines in New Year *Japanese Shrines in New Year

*New Years Eve in JapanHappy New Year – and I hope your 2018 is a great year for you and yours.

The Island of Teshima and Art

 Naoshima, Teshima
Dec 312017
 

December 2017

Teshima is a rural island in the Seto Inland Sea that, with the nearby islands of Naoshima and Inujima has become a destination for contemporary art. The island also serves as one of the venues of the Setouchi Triennale art festival that is held in the region.

The building that houses Les Archives de Coeur by Christian Boltanski

The building that houses Les Archives de Coeur by Christian Boltanski

The main attraction is the Teshima Art Museum, but there are other exhibits as well.  It was winter when I visited, so many were closed, but that also meant, what was open had easy access (no lines).

One of the other permanent artworks on the island is Les Archives du Coeur (“Heart Archives”), it is located in a small building along the beach in the eastern outskirts of the Karato port area. For ¥510, it is one of the multiple locations across the world where visitors can make recordings of their heartbeat and listen to the recorded heartbeats of other people in a slightly unnerving environment. French artist, Christian Boltanski is the creator of the project and has been doing this since 2008.

When you enter the gallery it is dark, the small light bulb goes on with each heart beat. It takes a very strong beat to actually light the room enough to see the walls.

When you enter the gallery it is dark, the small light bulb goes on with each heartbeat. It takes a very strong beat to actually light the room enough to see the walls.

I had gone in and thought to record your heartbeat a little weird.  However, after you leave the main exhibit hall there are small computers with high-grade earphones to listen to other heartbeats, you choose the country and the person, it is weird, and in fact it is a little spooky, but after walking out and staring at the sea I realized it was an opportunity to be part of an actual art exhibit, so I walked back in and paid my ¥1540 and put myself into the exhibit via a quick recording.  That seems like a bit much (around $15US) but you walk away with a CD of your heartbeat (an outdated mode of recording) packaged in a stunning box, that is, in itself, a small piece of art, so it was worth it, to me.

All the glass in the house is red, creating a perfect environment inside for the art.

All the glass in the house is red, creating a perfect environment inside for the art.

The other large exhibit that was open during the winter was the Teshina Yokoo House (¥510).  This, like the Teshima Art Museum, is one of the more moving exhibits I have seen in a very long time.  While the art was contemplative, the building was stunning. The house is a  collaboration between artist Tadanori Yokoo and architect Yuko Nagayama. The project was created by altering and renovating an old private house located the Ieura District. The exhibition areas are divided into a “Main House,” a “Warehouse,” and an “Outhouse”.

Photos are not allowed inside, and overall shots of the exterior are hard to get from the narrow streets, but this is the entry to the home.

Photos are not allowed inside, and overall shots of the exterior are hard to get from the narrow streets, but this is the entry to the home.

The most moving space is the silo-like structure.  It appeared at first to be something you simply look into.  It took the docent to tell me you could actually enter the space.  The juxtaposition between the glass floor and the darkness completely fool the eye.  Once inside it is hard to leave, it is filled with old postcards right up to the top and is such a warm and comfortable space to enjoy, it was a very memorable experience.

The mosaic stream, filled with koi, continues under the house. It can be enjoyed through the glass floors.

The mosaic stream, filled with koi, continues under the house. It can be enjoyed through the glass floors.

As I mentioned much of the sites are closed during the winter, but you will trip over outdoor pieces.  A really fun one, that looks like it belongs there because it is on a playground. Installed for the 2013 Triennale, it is by Spanish artists Jasmine Llobet and Luis Fernandez Pons.

No one wins - Tashima Triennial“No one wins – Multibasket” creates a place where both the local residents and visitors can simply play basketball. There are multiple hoops and players must use their imagination and make up their own rules.

As you wander the island you come across the rice fields that are being brought back to life with the help of the Tashima Art Museum

As you wander the island you come across the rice fields that are being brought back to life with the help of the Tashima Art Museum

Everyone's yards were filled with various types of citrus trees. These consisted of Lemons, Mandarins and Iyolans.

Everyone’s yards were filled with various types of citrus trees. These consisted of Lemons, Mandarins, and Iyolans.

I always enjoy viewing temples when I can, there are several on the island, but this one was truly special

Temple viewing in Japan is always a joy

Temple viewing in Japan is always a joy

temples of Japan

On an island with a fishing industry, a fish Kami seems to me to be a normal thing to see at a shrine.

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*The Teshima Bulletin Board

Getting to Teshima requires some planning, the ferries only run a few times a day.  A good 5 hours should be allotted to the island, and remember I was there in the winter when the lines were either very, very short or non-existent.

Once you arrive there is an easy to miss area with bike rentals and a gift shop.  Here you will find the Teshima Guide that tells you everything that is open or closed for the day.

Renting bikes is the best way to get around the island, you can get an electric one if the hills are intimidating for you. Otherwise, for ¥100 per ride (about $1US), you can hop on the local bus.  It also doesn’t run very often, but walking is very easily supplemented with a few bus rides to cover the longer distances between ports.

The Tobas Rehberger house, in the Ieura port area was closed for the winter.

The Tobias Rehberger house, in the Ieura port area, was closed for the winter.

Tobias Rehberger is a German artist that does full exhibit installations with optical illusions. This is one of the permanent collections that was closed for the winter

The Needle Factory

Also in the Ieura area is the Needle Factory, another permanent exhibit that is closed for the winter.

Artist Shinro Ohtake takes an abandoned sewing needle factory and inserts and abandoned fishing boat for a full-size statement.

Teshima, Japan

Teshima is a wonderful island, strolling is easy, and art is accessible.  One will go for the Teshima Art Museum, but there is oh so much more.

Teshima Art Museum: an Indescribable Experience

 Japan, Naoshima, Teshima
Dec 302017
 

December 30, 2017

Teshima Art Museum

Teshima is a small island in the Inland Sea of Japan.  It had suffered economically until the Benesse Group, founded on the island of Naoshima, started turning the surrounding islands into art and architecture havens.  I began this adventure on the island of Tashima, and in particular with the Tashima Art Gallery, because it is December 30th and the gallery closes for the first week in January.

The Teshima Art Gallery is actually an art installation extraordinaire.  There are no photos allowed inside, and as a photographer, even I had to agree with the policy.  The building is a stunning meditation space with water as a medium.

However, the official photographer Noboru Morikawa has photos on his website.   I have borrowed one from his site, but it still does not give you any sense of the wonder of this museum.

Teshima Museum

I was drawn to the museum for its architecture, and that is a wonder unto itself. The architect is Ryue Nishizawa

According to the website:
“Structurally, the building consists of a concrete shell, devoid of pillars, coving a space 40 by 60 meters and with a maximum height of 4.5 meters. Two oval openings in the shell allow wind, sounds, and light of the world outside into this organic space where nature and architecture intimately interconnect. In the interior space, water continuously springs from the ground in a day-long motion….The museum, which resembles a water droplet at the moment of landing, is located in the corner of a rice terrace that was restored in collaboration with local residents.”

Before you enter you are told to be careful where you step.  Most obviously you are told of small pieces of pottery, but you are also told that the water droplets are part of the installation.  This seems silly until you enter the space and realize the water droplets are a huge part of the installation.  In fact, they are what it is all about.  Water is pushed through very small holes via the small pieces of pottery or extremely small holes in the ground.  They then traverse across the space, joining together organically and then disappearing with a wonderful “quiet water down the drain” sound.  All of this spectacular mind-blowing art is from the artist Rei Naito who worked in very close collaboration with Ryue Nishizawa to create a space that must be experienced to understand.

There are countless articles from Architectural and Art magazines that can be cited here, there is no point, you simply must experience this space personally if you ever have the opportunity to be in Japan.

Even the walkway to the museum is a work of art

Even the walkway to the museum is a work of art

Teshima, Benesse

Looking out onto the inland Sea of Japan

Looking onto the first opening which is on the entryway side of the museum

Looking on to the first opening which is on the entryway side of the museum.

Teshima Art Museum Benesse

The entry to the museum. They limit the number of people that can enter at a time, and you must take off your shoes to go in.

Teshima Art Museum

The Art Space of Teshima Art Museum is a shell-structure that is thought to be the lowest building in history, with a height of only four and a half meters and a thickness of only twenty-five centimeters.  There are two skylights in the ceiling.  The water-drop-shaped floor measures forty by sixty meters and there are no interior supports.

Such a structure is possible today because of technology, and in no way could have been achieved in an earlier era.  Using special software Matsuro Sasaki conducted the structural calculation in such a way that there would be no straight lines in the entire design.  The concept was realized by the advanced technology of Kajima Corporation.

To realized the design, soil from the site was mounded and coated with mortar. Next, double iron reinforcing frames for concrete were assembled on the mound.  It took twenty-two hours overnight in the middle of winter for 120 concrete mixers to pour the concrete over the mound, which was left to dry for five weeks.  Finally, it took six weeks to dig out the soil from inside the new concrete shell.- From the Curator’s Notes

The Older Architecture of Sapporo

 Japan, Sapporo
Dec 282017
 

December 2017

Sapporo

Getting around Hokkaido in the winter is not the easiest of tasks, so this trip is limited to Sapporo.  There are lots of fun things to keep one busy if you dress warm and have patience.

After enjoying the Sapporo TV Tower and the lights in Odori Park, or the Snow Festival if you are here in February, there are several interesting historic places to visit.

Sapporo is a very new town. Its founding did not occur until the 1860s with a population of seven. The population did not pass one million until the 1970s and is still just under 2 million. After a total of 17.5 percent of the city was destroyed as a part of Allied air raids on Hokkaido during WWII, the area was developed as a food production area to help with the Japanese food shortages.

Their subway system was built in 1971, and they held the Olympics in 1972. Maria Callas sang her last opera in Sapporo in 1974.

For these reasons, there is not too much historical architecture.

The former Hokkaido Government office Building

The Former Hokkaido Government Office Building

The Former Hokkaido Government  Building is nicknamed akarenga or “Red Bricks”.  It is an American neo-baroque style Meiji era building designed in 1888 by a Hokkaido government engineer.

When built it was one of the largest buildings in Japan.  The dome, constructed in 1873, was designed by American advisor to the Development Commission Horace Capron.  Domes, at that time in history, were architectural symbols of independence, so when the Hokkaido Government was established in 1886 the first governor nostalgically added the dome.

The building burned down in 1909 and was restored in 1911. It was further restored in 1968 and now serves as a museum, art gallery, public space, and houses a research library.

Former Hokkaido Government Building

The riser on the entry steps are exceptionally high, but the stone is gorgeous.  There are air vents that look like chimneys and lightning rods, all parts of Western architecture.  There are around 2.5 million bricks, made in Shiroishi and Toyohiro villages, now part of Sapporo.  The French-style brickwork uses longitudinal and transverse bricks laid alternately.  This is a rather rare form of masonry in Japan.

Sapporo Japan in winter

The entry and main hall are centered around this three section arch. The stairway typifies western architecture.

architecture of Japan*Meiji era architecture

The road leading to the entry was the first paved road in Sapporo. It was laid in 1924 with bricks made of chemically treated elm.

Sapporo Diorama

A map of 1800s Sapporo in the Former Hokkaido Government Building

Sapporo Japan architecture

The grounds are also surrounded by a lovely and rather large park.

Sapporo Clock Tower

Another building from the 1800s is the clock tower. Built in 1878 it is both a historic and cultural symbol of Sapporo.  Originally called the Embujo – military drill hall, it served as that for the Sapporo Agricultural College (now Hokkaido University) the first agricultural institution in Japan.  Invited by the government as the first Agricultural liaison, American Dr. William S. Clark, who at the time was president of the Massachusets Agricultural College came to Sapporo to be the Vice-president of the Sapporo Agricultural College.  Clark designed the curriculum with its military training similar to that of his original school. The clock tower was actually designed by Clark’s successor William Wheeler as a military hall, it was later called the Clock Tower.  It was Governor Kiyotaka Kuroda who actually proposed installing the clock, which was manufactured and purchased from the E. Howard Watch and Clock Company of Boston. This was added in 1881.

This very American, mid-west architecture is now a small museum with an entry fee of ¥200, and well worth the visit.

The clock in the tower was built by E. Howard & Co. from Boston and it is a weight driven clock. That means a large weight, 50kg in this case, is suspended from the clock and descends under the force of gravity at a calculated rate. When the weight reaches the bottom, after about 7 days, it is wound back up by a crank handle. These pictures are a replica of the clock, the workings and the actual weight.

The clock in the tower is a weight-driven clock. That means a large weight, 110 pounds, in this case, is suspended from the clock and descends under the force of gravity at a calculated rate. When the weight reaches the bottom, in about 7 days, it is wound back up by a crank handle. These pictures are a replica of the clock and its workings.

Sapporo Beer Factory

This old brewery building is now just one of 7 buildings that make up the Sapporo Factory Shopping Mall.

At the beginning of the Meiji era, the Japanese government established various businesses in Hokkaido as part of a wider effort to colonize Hokkaido. One of these businesses was the Kaitakushi Brewery. This brewery leveraged Hokkaido’s abundant natural resources, including its cold weather, to produce beer. The first brewery building was made of wood and later enlarged with red brick as the beer became more popular. Even then the beer bore the iconic star mark of Sapporo.

In 1882, the Kaitakushi was abolished due to financial difficulties, and buildings built by the Kaitakushi were liquidated. In January 1886, the Kaitakushi Brewery belonged to the newly established Hokkaidō Prefectural Government. Privatized in 1887, Kaitakushi Brewery was renamed Sapporo Bakushu.

Old Sapporo Kaitakushi Brewery

The wooden floors undulate as the slowly incline.

The wooden floors inside the original brewery building undulate as they slowly incline.

Sapporo Smoke Stack

The Takashiro Nagayama residence is undergoing a complete restoration, so it was not available for viewing during my visit.  However, it is a beautiful blend of Japanese and American architecture.

Nagayama residence sapporo japanBuilt around 1880, this residence was built as the home of the second director of the Hokkaido Agency. The interior of the residence, which is surrounded by a garden full of azalea and Japanese yew trees, combines Western and Japanese architectural styles. A purely Japanese study, for example, connects to a Western drawing room. It is an early example of residences incorporating Western architectural technologies, which became popular during the Hokkaido pioneering period.

Japanese architectureThe two-story building on the north side of the property is a Western building that the Mitsubishi Mining and Cement Co., Ltd. built upon purchasing the residence after Nagayama passed away.

Sapporo has a vast array of lovely modern buildings and public parks, but their historical architecture, while spread throughout the city, is worth pursuing if you are an architecture fan.

Things to do in Sapporo

 Sapporo
Dec 282017
 

December 2017

Sapporo is a very walkable city, and what you will notice is the lack of automobiles, most likely due to its incredible train system, subway system, and underground walkways.

When you visit the Old Hokkaido Government Building there is a map that shows Sapporo in the 1800s, the Toyohira River runs through Sapporo and off of this is a small canal Soseigawa.

When you visit the Old Hokkaido Government Building there is a map that shows Sapporo in the 1800s, the Toyohira River runs through Sapporo and off of this is the small canal Soseigawa.

Sapporo is logically organized thanks to its grid system. The main thoroughfare, Ō-Dōri, meaning “Big Street”, runs east to west across the city and divides the city into North and South, while Sōsei-Gawa “Creation River” divides the city into West and East. Soseigawa is the small canal that runs through the downtown area. While covered in snow in winter, and a little hard to navigate, it is a public park with art during the rest of the year.  You can even see it in the above 1800s map.

One of the lovely bridges that cross the Sosiegawa Canal

One of the lovely bridges that cross the Sosiegawa Canal also called the Sosiegawa River

Sapporo fish market

Walking along the Soseigawa River you will run into the Nijo Market, It is said to have developed in the early Meiji Period when fishermen from Ishikari Bay started selling fresh fish there. There used to be a row of fish markets along the Soseigawa River. Eventually, noodle shops, bars, and grocers moved in creating today’s Nijo Market. Today the market still serves the local population and judging by the number of boxes being wheeled out, the restaurant business as well, but it is also filled with tourists.

Throughout the market are sushi restaurants tucked in small alleys and around corners, or you can grab fresh fish grilled by the sellers right on the sidewalk.

December is prime time for Hokkaido Crab

December is prime time for Hokkaido Crab

Hokkaido Crab

There are a few places selling things other than fish. At today’s exchange rate that ¥5000 is around $45US for just under one pound

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This is nothing like the Tokyo Fish Market, but it is still a fun place to spend an hour or so, and a great place to get a rice bowl topped with the freshest fish.

Fresh uni and oysters were the choice for me this morning.

Fresh uni and oysters were the choices for me this morning. This ran around $24US

Another view of the Sosiegawa River

Another view of the Sosiegawa River

The Japanese are without a doubt some of the most polite people in the world.  Along the sidewalks, you will find these free bags of sand, and everyone helps to spread the sand in the more slippery parts of town.

sand bags in Sapporo Winter

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Horohiro Bridge

Mizuho Ohashi Bridge crossing the Toyohira River

This Ferris Wheel (Nobia) is atop the Nobesa Shopping Mall

This Ferris Wheel (Noria) is atop the Norbesa Shopping Mall

They say if you ride the yellow one all your dreams will come true.

They say if you ride the yellow one all your dreams will come true.

Six U.S. dollars will get you a very, very slow ride on the Noria on the 7th floor of the Norbesa Mall in the Susukino entertainment district of Sapporo.  It is worth it if you love Ferris Wheels, and not for the faint of heart if you have issues with heights.  If you wanted your feet planted firmly, but still want the view, read my post on the TV Tower here.

The Ferris Wheel can be seen for miles in the evening. Changing colors and patterns as it turns.

The Ferris Wheel can be seen for miles in the evening. Changing colors and patterns as it turns.

The mall is more of a giant carnival with games, a bowling alley and restaurants, it all comes alive after the sun goes down, as does the entire Suskino area.

Norbesa Mall, Sapporo

The Suskina Entertainment Area is filled with bars, pachinko palaces, restaurants and even a red-light district

The Suskino Entertainment Area is filled with bars, pachinko palaces, restaurants, and even a red-light district

Susukino originated in 1871 when the Hokkaido Kaitakushi designated the area as the red-light district. After the construction of the district, the Kaitakushi named this place as “Susukino Yūkaku” (Susukino red-light district) and integrated other brothels into this district. Today, Susukino is Japan’s largest entertainment district outside of Tokyo. It is packed with stores, bars, restaurants, karaoke shops, pachinko parlors and red light establishments, a great place to wander in the evening.

However, it is also the home of Ramen Yokocho, or Ramen Alley, a very narrow paved lane lined with very tiny shops serving up Sapporo’s famous ramen, so should you be in the area during the day it is a great place to find a bowl of noodles.

The first store in the alley is Aji No Karyo and proudly displays a sign on the window saying Anthony Bourdain ate here.

The first store in the alley is Aji No Karyo and proudly displays a sign on the window saying Anthony Bourdain ate here.

Looking down the small alleyway

Looking down the small alleyway

You can order at the table, or some restaurants allow you to pay and order at the same time via a machine.

A ramen noodle ordering machine

A ramen noodle ordering machine

covered shopping malls in Sapporo

Shopping seems to be the number one past time in Sapporo.  I have never seen so many shopping malls per capita in one city in my life, I honestly think Sapporos shopping malls far outweigh the number in Tokyo, they are both above and below ground, so the numbers of stores are staggering. Most are modern high rises that can go two to five stories below ground and then another 7 above, but every once in a while you trip over an older fashioned covered mall like this one.  These have the types of stores that serve locals, not tourists, but they are a respite from the wind and snow and somewhat fun to explore.

old fashioned store sapporo japan

They even have big dreams – this gentleman brings memories of Paris to his store.

shopping sapporo

One of my favorite things is Matcha Kit-Kats, I was agog to find there are far more flavors than I ever knew. In fact, Kit Kat’s are quite the thing in Japan partially because Kit Kat sounds similar to the Japanese phrase kitto kattsu, or “you will surely win.” Because of this, it is often given as a good luck gift to students before their university exams. Nestle capitalized on this and the Japanese tradition of omiyage (or the gifting of regional specialties to family and co-workers after trips) and has released over 300 limited-edition seasonal and regional flavors since 2000. The newest is Tokyo Banana as of this posting.

Can your read all the flavors?

Can you read all the flavors? Strawberry, Wasabi, Rum Raisin, Momiji Anju Aji, Red Bean Sandwich, and Shinshu Apple.

One of the last items I did was to find a Shinto shrine, it was close to New Years and time to purchase protection amulets.  The lovely Hokkaido Shrine Junga at Marayuma park was too far to navigate in the snow so I found a sweet shrine closer to downtown.

Hokkaido Shrine Tonga at 3 Chome Minami 2 Johigashi, Chuo

The Hokkaido Shrine Tonga at 3 Chome Minami 2 Johigashi, Chuo

They have a small gift shop and they show all of the protection amulets with English translations in case you are interested.  This temple seemed to have a predominance of transportation and auto safety amulets, but there are many others as well.

The washing station was so cold as to be frozen.

The washing station was so cold as to be frozen and not useable.

Ema's on the right Ema (絵馬, lit. "picture-horse") are small wooden plaques, common to Japan, in which Shinto and Buddhist worshippers write prayers or wishes. The ema are left hanging up at the shrine, where the kami (spirits or gods) are believed to receive them

On the right are Emas ( “picture-horse”) these are small wooden plaques, common to Japan, in which Shinto and Buddhist worshippers write prayers or wishes. The ema are left hanging up at the shrine, where the kami (spirits or gods) are believed to receive them.

Otaru on the Sea of Japan

 Otaru
Dec 262017
 

December 2017

Otaru CanalOtaru is a lovely little town situated on Ishikari Bay of the Sea of Japan. It was an Ainu (native peoples of Hokkaido) settlement, and the name “Otaru” is recognized as being of Ainu origin, possibly meaning “River running through the sandy beach”. Otaru was recognized as a village by the bakufu (The shogun’s officials were collectively the bakufu) in 1865, and in 1880 the first railway line in Hokkaido was opened with daily service between Otaru and Sapporo.

Historic Buildings of Otaru

A former Millet store, this delightful building dates to the Meiji period of Japan. 1909

An Imperial decree in July 1899 established Otaru as an open port for trading with the United States and the UK.

The city flourished with herring fishing and was once the center of the economy of Hokkaido.
Otaru once called “Northern Wall Street was also a central banking and financial center.

architecture of Otaru

Natori Takasaburo a metals merchant and hardware trader from Yamanashi prefecture built this store with attached living quarters in 1906. The exterior walls are made of Sapporo soft stone. This is an excellent example of the commercial architecture of the later Meiji period

Otaru is a major station on the JR Hakodate Line, making it very easy to get to from Sapporo. There are at least five trains per hour, a one-way trip is ¥640 and the fastest train takes around 30 minutes.

The canal was completed in 1923 to aid in getting goods, via smaller boats, from the ships to the warehouses that line the canal. It is just a 10-minute walk from Otaru Station.

Otaru architecture in Japan

This building stands in the center of town and was a warehouse for Mukai Kimono Shops branch store. It is one of the few brick warehouses built in Otaru. Because of a large fire that swept through the town in 1904 the building used thick earthen fire doors on the interior of the windows.

the glass of Otaru JapanThe area is also known for its glass blowing so the biggest things to do is shop at the tourist stores along Sakaimachi road and eat fresh fish. You can find fresh fish stores and chose your own or dine in one of the hundreds of restaurants serving fresh sushi. It is crab season in Japan, so fresh crab abounds in all of the restaurants.

You can also find several fish stores throughout town that will grill the fish right there

You can also find several fish stores throughout town that will grill the fish right there

img_1950

You can also take boat rides on the canal, sadly the snow and winds were too heavy the day we were there and they were not running.

Otaru River Cruises

Shopping in Otaru

The shops of Sakaimachi Street

There are two quasi covered malls, while not the greatest stores, it does offer a respite from the snow and wind if needed.

There are two quasi-covered malls, while not the greatest stores, it does offer a respite from the snow and wind if needed.

Small sushi restaurants can be found hidden off a side alley from one of the covered malls.

Small sushi restaurants can be found hidden off a side alley from one of the covered malls.

When the sun goes down lights come out on the canal

When the sun goes down, lights come out on the canal

Otaru Japan

If you have the chance to visit in February, don’t miss the snow light festival.

Otaru snow light festival

Sapporo Beer Garden and Museum – Sapporo, Japan

 Japan, Sapporo
Dec 252017
 

Christmas Day – 2017

Sapporo Beer

The Sapporo Beer Museum and Bier Garten are a fun way to spend an afternoon.

Sapporo Beer Museum

The factory was built in 1890 as the Sapporo sugar factory and used as the beer malting plant until 1963.  It was turned into the museum and beer garden in 1966.

Sapporo Bier Garten

Registered as one of the Hokkaidō Heritage sites in 2004, the museum is the only beer museum in Japan.

In 1895, Japanese sugar manufacture declined, causing the liquidation of the beet manufacturing factory run by the Sapporo Sugar Company. In 1903, the Sapporo Beer Company purchased and remodeled the factory to use as a brewery.

Sapporo Beer Posters

Beer posters through the ages, notice the predominance of women, and yes, children.

A very good self-guided tour, with English translation cards, is available through the museum.  You can also take a guided tour for a small fee, which includes beer tasting, however, it was not available Christmas day as the tasting room was closed.

Some interesting facts about Sapporo beer:  In 1869, the Meiji government set about developing Hokkaido, establishing a Kaitakushi (the national government Hokkaido Development Commission). One of the businesses established under this commission was the Kaitakushi Brewery.

The following year the  Sapporo Brewery was born. It was originally slated to open in Tokyo, but wild hops were discovered in Hokkaido and the area was found to be highly suitable for both the cultivation of hops and also barley.

The first brewer was a Seibei Nakagawa, a Japanese man that had gone to Germany of his own accord to study beer brewing.

Since Sapporo beer was brewed in the German style, which relies on fermentation and maturing to be done at low temperatures, and since ice was easy to procure in Hokkaido, the area turned out to be ideal for beer production.  Also, at the time they had not developed the ability to fully remove yeast, which would change the taste of the beer if the temperature rose, so the ice was also needed during the transportation of the beer to Tokyo.

In 1937, due to a war economy, all beer production in Japan stopped. At the end of the war, the company was split into Asahi Breweries and  Nippon Breweries (now Sapporo).  The Nippon brand included Yebisu.   However, Nippon did not utilize either of those names in making beer.  In 1956, the unrelenting cries of fans pushed Sapporo Beer to bring back the name, and once again begin making beer in Hokkaido.  The sale of Sapporo Beer did not even go countrywide until 1964.

Labels of Sapporo Beer through the ages

Labels of Sapporo Beer through the ages

Sapporo Beer Museum

The Kaitakushi Brewery was established in the place where now the Sapporo Factory Shopping Mall is in downtown Sapporo. The inauguration was held at the brewery, and beer barrels were piled up in front of the building. These barrels were restored, and now stand in front of the Sapporo Beer Museum

The museum does not take more than a half of an hour, if the tasting room is open it could take longer, but what everyone goes for are the restaurants.

These are packed in the evening, so a leisurely lunch was considerably more inviting. There are five restaurants on the grounds, each with a slight twist on either its decor or its menu offering, but the big thing is that they all offer all you can eat and, should you choose, all you can drink.  The catch on the all you can drink is you have 100 minutes, and, more importantly, it does not include the premium beers.

Sapporo Beer Garden Genghis Khan meal

The reason people go to eat is the Genghis Khan.  You can order it as a meal (shown above) or as part of the all you can eat.  You grill your own strips of lamb and vegetables.

Ghengis Khan dinner Sapporo

As mocking you for improperly cooking your Genghis Kahn is de rigueur, directions are set before you so you are not teased by the table next to you.

fat Genghis Khan Sapporo Japan food

You begin by getting your personal, table-top, griddle covered in fat with the slab of lamb fat that comes with the raw meat and vegetables.

Sapporo Beer Garden Genghis Khan mealNext, you place the vegetables on the edges and the meat in the middle.

Sapporo Beer Garden Restaurants

Cook until the meat is no longer red, and your vegetables to your liking.

Sapporo Beer Garden Restaurants

Kessel Hall, the most fun of the restaurants that are open for lunch, is dominated by a giant Kessel.

In German the word Kessel (literally a cauldron) is commonly used to refer to an encircled military force, and a Kesselschlacht (cauldron battle) refers to a pincer movement. The common tactic which would leave a Kessel is referred to Keil and Kessel (Keil means wedge).

In German the word Kessel means cauldron.

Sapporo Beer Garden and restaurants

Notice the plastic bags next to the diners.  The smoke is so intense in the room when it is full that you, your hair and your clothing go home reeking of Ghengis Khan.  The plastic bags are provided by the restaurant to keep that from happening to anything that you brought in that isn’t attached to your body.

The green and yellow drink at that table are flavored beers, Sapporo also makes several types of soft drinks.

Next to the Sapporo Beer Museum and Garden is a shopping mall with a grocery store that I would pay good money to have in my hometown.  If you have not indulged in entirely too much beer, it is absolutely worth a stroll. There is an ATM, and as those that travel in Japan, know, those are not the easiest to find, so it is a great opportunity to get some cash.

There is a taxi stand at the museum, but it was snowing on Christmas day and cabs in the snow in Japan are as rare as they are anywhere else in the world in the snow.  There is also a cab stand at the shopping mall, and it was frequented often, just a word to the wise.

KANPAI!

screen-shot-2017-12-25-at-7-52-26-pmSo just a small note about Christmas in Japan, known as more of a time to spread happiness rather than a religious celebration Christmas Eve is often celebrated more than Christmas Day. Christmas Eve is thought of as a romantic day, in which couples spend together and exchange presents. In many ways, it resembles Valentine’s Day.

We had a fried chicken dinner because fried chicken is often eaten on Christmas day. It is the busiest time of year for restaurants such as KFC and believe it or not you can put in orders in advance at KFC’s and other fast food restaurants that serve fried chicken. This most likely came about because of a 1974 advertising campaign by KFC called ‘Kentucky for Christmas!’ (Kurisumasu ni wa kentakkii!) which was very successful and made KFC popular for Christmas.

Meri Kurisumasu

and if you are really challenging me Merry Christmas in Hiragana is: めりーくりすます; and in Katakana is: メリークリスマス.

 

Christmas Eve in Sapporo, Japan

 Japan, Sapporo
Dec 242017
 

December 24, 2017

It is Christmas in Japan, and Sapporo does it big.  Today we spent the day walking the German Christmas Fair, and yes, all the gifts and food are German.  You go for the lights and the people watching unless of course, you want to take home German gifts from Japan.

Snowman Building

Snowman Building during the day in front of lights that decorate the night.

The market has been held in Sapporo since 2002, when the city celebrated its thirtieth anniversary with its sister city, Munich, Germany. The stalls sell Christmas items, hot wine, and cold beer, and German food.  The market is up for one month in Odori Park and ends on Christmas Eve.  Sapporo White Illumination, also in Odori Park, a tradition that began in 1981, is a  Christmas light show that stays up until Christmas day.

There are so many photo opportunities throughout the German Christmas Fair

There are so many photo opportunities throughout the German Christmas Market

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Saint Nick can even be found here and there

Saint Nick can even be found here and there.

There are lots of places to do “selfies” and posed shots, but the best vantage point is the 30th floor of the Sapporo TV Tower.

Sapporo TV Tower

Sapporo TV Tower

While Illumination Sapporo Japan

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Looking down on Odori Park from the observation level of the Sapporo TV Tower

Looking down on Odori Park from the observation level of the Sapporo TV Tower

the Noria Ferris wheel at the Norbesa Center in the Susukino Entertainment district, and ski resorts in the distance from the observation tower

the Noria Ferris wheel at the Norbesa Center in the Susukino Entertainment district, and ski resorts in the distance from the observation tower

To make your visit complete you must go back at night to see all the lights.  Start at the TV Tower Observation deck, this time with a long line of people, and end at Odori W8.

Odori Park at night from the Sapporo TV Tower Observation Deck

Odori Park at night from the Sapporo TV Tower Observation Deck

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The Ferris wheel not only changes colors but also changes patterns making for a wonderful light show from the observation deck.

Christmas in Sapporo Japan

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Christmas Eve in Sapporo Japan

There are decorations of light displays for 8 blocks, all different

There are decorations of light displays for 8 blocks, all different

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Tunnel of Lights

Tunnel of Lights

Sapporo christmas lights

Frozen bananas and marshmallow treats

Frozen bananas and marshmallow treats

There is all sorts of fun shopping both day and night

There is all sorts of fun shopping both day and night

German Christmas Market Sapporo Japan

Hot chocolate, hot wine, cold beer and lots of German food

Hot chocolate, hot wine, cold beer and lots of German food

Only in Japan would there be an entire building to take your dishes after eating.

Only in Japan would there be an entire building to take your dishes after eating.

The kids finished the snow man they were building this afternoon

The kids finished the snowman they were building this afternoon

Children in their Christmas costumes enjoying the Christmas lights

Children in their Christmas costumes enjoying the Christmas lights

The people watching continues throughout the evening

The people watching continues throughout the evening

Ekimae dori is a street off of Odori Park that is lined with trees that are lit up so beautifully. These are up until February 12th.

Ekimae dori is a street off of Odori Park that is lined with trees that are lit up so beautifully. These are up until February 12th.

Minami 1-jo dori, in front of the JR Tower shopping mall also has a lovely light display as well, and it is up until March 14th

Minami 1-jo dori, in front of the JR Tower shopping mall also has a lovely light display as well, and it is up until March 14th

Walk and you will find spontaneous caroling, what more can you ask at Christmas?

Merry Christmas!