Kyoto – ALL I NEED IS MY PASSPORT

Japanese Fences

Jan 032024

December 2023

I love the uniqueness of Japanese fences. Japanese-style fences, or “Sukiya-zukuri,” are rooted in traditional Japanese architecture—their origins date to the 16th century, when they were used to create boundaries and provide privacy. Over time, Japanese-style fences have become an essential element in Japanese landscape design.

The fences above and below are called the yotsume-gaki, literally meaning “four-eyed fence,” likely in reference to the four spaces formed in each vertical row by the crossing bamboo canes (although variations of the yotsume-gaki exist in which there are fewer “eyes” in each vertical row).

Of course, like most wood products, there are no historic fences to date this type of construction. However, if one digs into Japanese art, one will find depictions of the yotsume-gaki back to the Heian Period (794-1185). Around the Momoyama Period (1573-1615), these fences became part of the gardens surrounding the tea houses and tea ceremonies. This type of fencing is probably the most common found in Japan today.

This is a Kōetsuji fence (gaki) A bamboo fence whose original is at Kōetsuji temple in Kyoto. It is made with a lattice of woven bamboo, and has a long tamabuchi (bamboo) coping which curves gently and touches the ground on one side.

While not as elegant as the curved ones, I spotted this in Nijo-jo Castle.

Koetsu-gaki without the tamabuchi curve.

A teppo gaki (rifle fence) is made of round bamboo stalks, or bundles of branches of bush clover or thin bamboo, as vertical members, resembling barrels of rifles (teppō), hence its name.

These are some of my favorite fences, but I will admit the placement of this particular one is rather odd. These are called Sode Gaki, which is a general term for a short fence projecting from a building near the veranda of its tearoom or shoin. It is used as a screen, as a partition, or as part of the garden scenery. This particular one is a Korean-style screen fence or Kōrai gaki.

Another oddly placed Korai gaki.

Lining the walks of the Bamboo forest is this shiba gaki or Brushwood Fence. Using undergrowth, twigs, and small branches as tateko (the vertical member) to make fences, shiba gaki were probably one of the earliest fence types constructed in Japan.

Another shiba gaki at the Hamarikyu Garden in Tokyo

A fence in Hama-rikyu Garden

I do not know if this is a typical bamboo fence, but it is perfect to keep anyone or anything from getting to the tree it is protecting.

Kenninji gaki

This bamboo fence is named after one at Kenninji temple in Kyoto. This fence uses closely placed slats of quarter-split bamboo as vertical members, held in place with horizontal bamboo bars and tied with the hemp palm rope. A coping called tamabuchi is attached to the top.

Komayose

These low wooden fences, called Komayose, served as a border between private land and the road. Because “Koma” means “horse,” one possible explanation for this structure is that it was used to tie the leads of horses and cows, while another speculation states that it was a piece of equipment to protect houses from horses and cows breaking in.

Inu Yari Fencing

When I first came upon this type of fencing, I thought it was a modern way to keep people from parking on your porch, but I was wrong. Inu yarai are used for keeping dogs from peeing on the exterior wall. It is also said to be used to keep away eavesdroppers on rainy days.

A tamagaki encloses the shrine’s innermost sanctum, setting it off from the outside world and marking a border between the sacred and the profane. Some shrines feature more than one tamagaki, which in its earliest form was a living hedge surrounded by a brushwood fence.

These types of gates are so ubiquitous that they are sold as “black bamboo gates” and can be found anywhere in the world.

These are just a few of the hundreds of types of artistic fencing in Japan. This is what I was able to see and photograph as the art is sadly dying out.

Beauty and Uniqueness Everywhere You Look

Japan, Kyoto, Tokyo

Jan 032024

December 2023

There are always things when you travel that catch your eye.

Palm trees in Nijo-jo Castle

In the garden at Nijo-jo Castle, there are sotetsu (Sago palm) trees. These trees were the offerings from a Daimyo (regional feudal lord) for the Tokugawa Shogunate in the early Edo period.

Quite obviously, they would never last the winters of Kyoto, so they are covered with sheets of rice straw called komo until the end of March.

The underpinnings of the Nightengale Floor in Nijo-jo Castle.

I read about Nightengale Floors many years ago and have always been fascinated by them. I have walked on several, but this time, a guide showed me the underpinnings when I toured Nijo-jo Castle. Nijo-jo Castle is known for having perhaps the best example of the Japanese Nightingale flooring system. Invented during the Edo Period, they served as an alarm system.

Nightingale floors, or “uguisubari,” which translates as “bush warbler guard watch,” are designed in such a way as to make a sound similar to a bird’s chirping when somebody starts walking on it. With just the lightest step, the floorboards bend enough to cause the flooring nails to rub against a clamp, producing a clearly audible sound. The songbird-like creaking is not very loud but is certainly enough to shatter a night-time silence, warning any guard that danger is approaching.

Roofs of Japan

Shibi

This shibi is Shachi or Shachihoko or “Killer Whale.” It is an imaginary creature with the head of a tiger and the body of a fish.
They were used throughout Japan as roof ornaments to provide protection against fire.

Shibi is an ornamental roof ornament used on the ridgepole, or oonume , of the tiled roof of a temple or palace. Historically, shibi were very popular in China and during the Japanese Asuka and Hakuhou periods. Their popularity began to wane by the end of the Kamakura period (1185–1333)

Onigawara

Onigawara literally means ogre or demon(oni) and roof tile(kawara).Because they generally depict a Japanese ogre (oni) or a fearsome beast. Prior to the Heian period, they were usually ornamented with floral designs.

The Pheonix is atop an onigawara.

An onigawara in Uji

Onigawara are a kind of ornamental roof tile observed at both ends of the roof of typical Japanese architecture. They are installed as a talisman to ward off evil spirits and as decoration. They also play an important role in preventing rainwater from entering the building.

It’s said that kawara, the roof tile itself, was introduced to Japan from Korea in 588, along with Buddhism. Four kawara experts were dispatched and used kawara for the first time in the construction of the Asuka-dera Temple. The oldest onigawara was excavated from the ruins of Horyu-ji Temple in Nara Prefecture, and it has a lotus flower.

Shōki

Shōki are Chinese folk gods believed to be stronger than demons. Evidence that the deity reached Japan by at least the late Heian Period (794 to 1185) is from an image of Shōki on a scroll at the Nara National Museum dated to the reign of Emperor Goshirakawa (1127-1192). Shōki’s popularity peaked in Japan during the Edo period when people began to hang images of Shōki outside their houses to ward off evil spirits during the Boys’ Day festival. From what I gather, you really only see them around Kyoto.

The Streets of Japan

A Poké Lid I found in a park in Kyoto.

Fifteen years ago, my late husband started taking pictures of utility covers, in particular, manhole covers, in Japan after noticing that every city had its own design, and they were gorgeous. Since then, manhole cover spotting has become quite a thing in Japan, with books, games, and trading cards.

Poké Lids (or pokéfuta) are Pokémon-themed (and licensed) manhole covers. The aim has been to encourage tourists to visit and explore lesser-known areas of Japan and discover the Pokémon artwork there. There are over 240 Poké Lids from Kyushu to Hokkaido regions, and each design is unique.

I have quite a few pictures myself, but the Poké Lids were new to me.

Pine trees are just different in Japan. Japanese-style pine trees are pruned to have a specific appearance. A Japanese-styled pine should have branches shaped to look like half-clouds. They should appear rounded towards the top, whereas the underside is flatter.

There are basically three different pruning methods when it comes to Japanese-style pine tree pruning. They are each reserved for different times of the year to maintain and preserve the style. The first one to note is Momiage pruning. This is what you see being done here. One only uses one’s hands as tools during the Momiage pruning process. Momiage is the method of removing needles – specifically, only the old needles.

Nishikigoi: Japanese Koi Fish

The name “Nishikigoi” (living jewels) goes back 200 years to a village in Japan.

The first Nishikigoi was produced by farmers breeding black carp (or Magoi) as a food source to survive the winter. The result was a vibrantly colored carp.

The carp in this picture is in a pond at the Imperial Palace. It is a Hirenaga, and its origin is thanks to Emperor Akihito. In 1962, he visited Indonesia and saw longfin carp. He thought it would be interesting to cross the Indonesian longfin carp with Japanese koi. He suggested this idea to Saitama Prefecture’s Inland Water Fisheries Experiment Station. The station succeeded in developing five Hirenaga varieties. In 1991, 22 Hirenaga koi were released to a pond at the palace. Ironically, they are not very popular in Japan but are very popular in the US, with their own category in Koi competitions.

And then there is the quirky, no matter where you travel. I am sure these belong to a very special cleaning crew, but all it brought to mind was a witches travel back up plan.

Saiho-ji Koke-dera

Japan, Kyoto

Dec 192023

December 15, 2023

Saihō-ji is a Rinzai Zen Buddhist temple. It is famous for its moss garden and is commonly referred to as “Koke-dera,” meaning “moss temple”.

Before entering the temple, one is required to sit in contemplation in the main hall and copy a very small part of a Buddhist Sutra in kanji. The sutra I was given was the Life-Extending Ten-Line Kannon Sutra or Enmei Jukku Kannon Gyo. I have put the sutra at the end of this post.

According to temple legend, Saihō-ji was constructed during the Nara period. Over time, the temple fell into disrepair, and in 1339, the chief priest of a nearby shrine summoned the famous Japanese gardener Musō Soseki to help him revive Saihō-ji as a Zen temple.

The garden is arranged as a circular promenade centered on Golden Pond (ōgonchi). The pond is shaped like the Chinese character for “heart” or “mind” (心, Kokoro) and contains three small islands.

The area around the pond is said to be covered with more than 120 varieties of moss, which is believed to have started growing after the flood of the temple grounds in the Edo Period.

Until 1977, Saihō-ji was open to the general public on a walk-up basis. Now, it is open to the public by appointment only. It allows a very limited number of visitors and for only 90 minutes. It is said that these regulations were put into place to protect the delicate moss from the hordes of tourists that plagued the temple before 1977.

In 1994, Saihō-ji was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The tea house was rebuilt during the Toyotomi Period (16th century). It is known for its moon-watching area. It is also said that Sen-no-Rikyu (a tea master) had used the building as a temporary hideout when Toyotomi Hideyoshi ordered a hara-kiri. Iwakur Tomoi also used this teahouse and succeeded in hiding from the shogunates during the Meiji Restoration.

The front of the tea house

Walking the path around the pond is awe-inspiring. A short bus ride from Tokyo Station it is absolutely worth the effort to get a reservation and hop on a bus.

I apologize. I truly hate blogs that just photo-dump, but I just could not help it. This place is so amazing.

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A sacred stone tied with a Shimenawa, a rope used to demarcate the boundary between the sacred and the profane.

The bridge leads to the main gate, which is no longer in use.

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It started to rain just as my visit was over.

The Kanzeon,

paying homage to Buddha,
forged a causal connection with Buddha,
a karmic affinity with Buddha,
a karmic affinity with Buddha, Dharma, and Sangha, thus attaining permanence, ease, selfhood, and purity. In the morning, think of Kanzeon,
in the evening, think of Kanzeon.
Thought after thought arises from the mind;
thought after thought is not separate from mind.

kan ze on 觀世音

na mu butsu 南無佛

yo butsu u in 與佛有因

yo butsu u en 與佛有縁

butsu ho so en 佛法僧縁 jo raku ga jo 常樂我淨

cho nen kan ze on bo nen kan ze on 朝念觀世音暮念觀世音

nen nen ju shin ki nen nen fu ri shin 念念從心起念念不離心

Random Kyoto

Japan, Kyoto

Dec 132023

December 2023

Chion-in ( Monastery of Gratitude)

The colossal main gate, the Sanmon, was built in 1619 and is the largest surviving structure of its kind in Japan. It features an Irimoya-zukuri or a Hip and Gabled roof. The purpose of the hip and gable roof is to protect the center point of the temple.

Yasaka Pagoda

The Tower of Yasaka is the last remaining structure of a 6th-century temple complex known as Hōkan Temple.

Yasaka Kōshin-dō

The temple is dedicated to Shomen Kongo, a guardian warrior, and to the three wise monkeys.

The colored balls are kukurizaru. They represent control over playfulness and desire-driven behavior. Visitors make a wish by placing one of their (bad) desires into a kukurizaru and leaving it with Koshin-san. Koshin-san takes away the desire and grants the wish.

Sadly, this pagoda is overrun with kimono-clad tourists, as it has now become a highly treasured “Instagram” spot.

Kabuki

Minamiza Kabuki Theatre was founded in 1610 as Shijō Minami-za. The current building was built in 1929.

A statue of Izumo-no-Okuni around the corner from the Kabuki Theater. Izumo-no-Okuni (1578 – 1613) was a Japanese entertainer who is believed to have invented the theatrical art form of kabuki.

Arashiyama

The Kimono Forest at the Arashiyama Train Station

The fabrics for the Kimono Forest were traditionally dyed in the Kyo-Yūzen method unique to Kyoto, in the workshop of the Kameda-Tomi company, a kimono manufacturer established in 1919 and known for its invention of Hawaiian-style Kyo-Yūzen shirts.

Selected by world-famous interior designer Yasumichi Morita, the Kimono Forest boasts a total of 32 different patterns, from flowers to flying cranes to geometric figures. Since I have a passion for skeletons, I could not help but notice that several of the kimonos were ornamented with them.

When I first visited the Bamboo Forest 15 years ago, there was no one around. Today, I found as many people with selfie sticks as there are bamboo stalks. The forest is also famous for the beautiful sounds that the bamboo makes, impossible to hear above the din of the noisy and disrespectful tourists.

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest

I am not being flippant when I say, disrespectful tourists. At least 100 bamboo trees in the Arashiyama bamboo forest have been defaced with carvings in English, Chinese, and Korean languages. These carvings are killing the trees.

Togetsukyo Bridge over the River Ōi near the Bamboo Forest

Togetsukyo Bridge as seen in one of artist Hiroshige’s ukiyo-e prints in the set: Famous Views of the Sixty-odd Provinces.

While it could be considered hokey the Romantic Train is a nice little hour in the Bamboo Forest. Called the Romantic Train on some websites or the Roman Tick on others, no matter what it is a nice trip along the river, especially with the changing leaves.

The train follows the river and you can often spot another tourist attraction, taking a boat down the river.

Aside from the Kimono Forest, another reason to visit this area of Kyoto is the Ōkōchi Sansō Villa, the former residence of Japanese period film star Ōkōchi Denjirō (1898-1962). That is for another post.

Kyoto Tower

Kyoto Tower

Kyoto Tower was proposed as an observation tower in the early 1960s, to be completed in time to correspond with the 1964 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. Construction began in 1963 on the former site of Kyoto’s central post office and was completed near the end of 1964.

Kyoto Tower was the first tower in the world to be built as a structure of steel plates joined into a cylinder without using iron frames. It was designed to withstand typhoons and earthquakes.

On a clear day, you can see Osaka from Kyoto Tower.

The Shinkansen (bullet train) arriving at Kyoto station as seen from Kyoto Tower.

The Torii Gate just one block from my hotel, as seen from Kyoto Tower

Kiyomizu-Dera Temple, as seen from Kyoto Tower

Ōkōchi Sansō

Japan, Kyoto

Dec 132023

December 2o23

The Chuman or Middle Gate

While the Bamboo Forest and other attractions of Arashiyama are jam-packed, Okochi Sanso is a serene oasis and a must-visit for a mere $7.00.

Ōkōchi Sansō Villa is the former residence of Japanese film star Ōkōchi Denjirō (1898-1962). A period actor from the film “The Tale of Genji”, he was part of the golden era of Japanese Film. Ōkōchi’s Villa includes a traditional home, tea house, and Buddhist halls amidst a carefully planned and cultivated Japanese-style garden. The villa employs classic architecture despite its rather recent construction.

A glimpse of the house

Jibutsu-dō

A Meiji Era building, the Jibutsu-dō was moved to its current location at Denjirō’s request. During work, it’s said he would come to the Jibutsu-dō to meditate and gather his thoughts, and the rest of the estate was founded gradually outwards from there.

Tea garden in front of the tekisuian (tea house)

Just one of the many places on the property to glimpse the mountains that surround Kyoto

When the actor passed away in 1962 at the age of 64, the estate passed to his wife, Taeka, who continued to manage the villa and eventually decided to open the garden to the public. The family continues to maintain the estate.

Higashi Hongan-ji and the Fires of Edo

Japan, Kyoto

Dec 132023

December 10, 2023

Higashi Hongan-ji

Higashi Hongan-ji, the head temple of the Ōtani-ha branch of Jōdo Shinshū, was most recently constructed in 1895 after a fire burned down the previous temple. In fact, Various parts of Higashi Honganji, including the Founder’s Hall and Amida Hall, burned down four times during the Japanese Edo Period.

The Founders Hall of Higashi Hongan-ji is one of the largest wooden structures in the world.

This temple represents how often buildings burned in Japan throughout history.

The great Kyoto Fire of the Tenmei Era broke out on March 7, 1788, and burned for two days. It is also known as Donguri Yake, which is the name of the area of town where the fire began in an unoccupied house. The fire did major damage including the destruction of the Imperial Palace and Nijo-jo Castle. This fire is regarded as one of the “Three Great Fires of Kyoto” (of the early modern period). The others are the Hoei Era fire and the Genji era fire, which was a result of the Kinmon incident.

A Dragon spouting water to fill the Temizuya.

The Great Fire of the Hoei Era occurred in Kyoto on April 28, 1708. A fire that started in a money exchange shop, fed by winds, and burned down the Imperial Palace, Sento Imperial Palace, Empress Dowager’s Palace, the Crown Prince’s Palace, as well as the mansions of nobles such as the Kujo Family and the Takatsukasa Family.

A small example of the exquisite carvings and metalwork found around the temple.

Higashi Hongan-ji suffered again in 1823 when an accidental fire destroyed many of the temple buildings. They were rebuilt in 1835. After burning down once again in 1858, the destroyed halls were quickly and temporarily reconstructed. However, these temporary halls burned down in a city-wide fire caused by the Kinmon incident on July 19, 1864. The Kinmon incident was a rebellion against the Tokugawa shogunate, in which the rebels, fighting to restore the emperor, set fire to the town.

Notice the human hair woven with hemp.

Hemp ropes necessary to haul the massive timber needed for the reconstruction of Higashi Hongan-ji after the 1864 fire were of such low quality as to snap under heavy load, causing many serious accidents.

To remedy the issue, female devotees throughout Japan donated their hair to strengthen the ropes. A total of 53 ropes were made using donated hair, the largest was 360 feet long and 16 inches thick and weighed about one ton.

A top hinge of the front doors of Higashi Hongan-ji

The door-locking mechanism of Higashi Hongan-ji

Higashi Hongan-ji from Kyoto Tower

When Tokyo was the capital of Japan, it was called Edo. During the Edo period (1600−1868), there were so many fires that the city was described by the saying, “Fires and quarrels are the flowers of Edo”.

Between 1600 and 1945, Edo/Tokyo was leveled every 25–50 years or so by fire, earthquakes, tsunamis, volcanic eruptions, and war.

Architecture of The Imperial Palace

Japan, Kyoto

Dec 042023

December 3, 2023

A rainbow forms over the Palace as I head towards it.

You can not enter any of the buildings on the Palace grounds, but you can stroll to your heart’s content. Years ago, I was struck by two things at the Imperial Palace: the architectural elements and the garden. Those are the two things that struck me as I walked through again fifteen years later.

One of the six palace gates

Japan has one of the largest collections of historic wooden architecture that has lasted over such a long period of history, starting from 600 CE. Over 80% of all historic Japanese architecture is timber-framed and joined together by intricate bracketing systems that provide great strength and flexibility. This has allowed the timber structures to withstand Japan’s incessant earthquakes.

The roofs of the Imperial Palace have always taken me aback. Roofs tend to be the focal point of much of Japanese architecture. The Palace roofs are constructed using the traditional method “hiwadabuki”, where bamboo nails are used to thatch pieces of cypress bark into roofing layers

Hawadabuki

The roof often constitutes half the size of the whole edifice. The slightly curved eaves extend far beyond the walls, covering verandas. Their weight must, therefore, be supported by complex bracket systems called tokyō.

The palace was once the home of the Royal Family as well as the Emperor of Japan and dates back to 794, when it was originally constructed. Thanks to fires and wars, the current palace dates from 1855. Architecturally speaking, the Kyoto Imperial Palace resembles the Heian Period Palaces (794 to 1185) as well as Chinese Tang Dynasty models.

The general structures of Japan are almost always the same: posts and lintels support a large and gently curved roof, while the walls are paper-thin, often movable, and never load-bearing.

The separation between inside and outside is itself, in some measure, not absolute as entire walls can be removed, opening the structure to visitors.

Shitomi, also called hajitomi are square-lattice shutters or doors and are characteristic of the Shinden style and the Heian Period (794-1185).

They are usually split and hinged horizontally; when open, the upper shutter is held up at 90 degrees to the wall with hooks, and the lower half could either be lifted out or folded parallel to the upper shutter. This makes it possible to remove the entire wall and leave just the pillars.

The Shishen-den

The main hall, called the Shishin-den, surrounded by a corridor of white walls and vermillion-red colored pillars, is the most formal hall of the palace. This is where important ceremonies such as ceremonies of the Accession to the Throne were held. The roof was constructed using the traditional method “hiwadabuki.”

The Seiryo-den

The Seiryo-den is a reconstruction in the Heian period style, with a gabled, cypress-thatched roof and shinden-zukuri layout. The main characteristics of the shinden-zukuri are the special symmetry of the group of buildings and the undeveloped space between them. the Seiryo-den was used by the emperor for living quarters.

Even the smallest detail is turned into a work of art.

The Imperial Palace sits on an immense piece of property that, in turn, sits inside a giant public park. It is the perfect place to escape Kyoto’s hustle, bustle, and crowds.

The Garden of the Imperial Palace in Kyoto

Japan, Kyoto

Dec 042023

December 3, 2023

I have a passion for Japanese Gardens that verges on obsession. As one would expect, the garden of the Imperial Palace is near perfect.

The development of gardens in Japan is closely connected to the changing lifestyle of Japan’s nobility and the changes in who holds the power.

During the ninth through twelfth centuries (the Heian period), Japanese gardens followed Chinese models in constructing spacious pond-and-island parks adjacent to their residences. These garden parks were used for entertainment; courtiers strolled through them, traveled along their streams and ponds in small boats, and enjoyed drinking and poetry parties in the tranquil setting.

The following is the Oike-niwa or Imperial Pond Garden.

The bridge is called Keyaki-bashi. As best I could find Keyaki-bashi refers to the Japanese Elm or Zelkova serrata, which is Keyaki in Japanese.

This palace garden was made for retired emperor Gomizunoo. It is a stroll garden with three sections. The long, narrow lake has six bridges and a tortoise island.

The crane (tsuru) and the turtle (kame) are both symbols of longevity. In the Japanese tradition, the crane is said to live 1000 years, while the turtle is considered to have a lifespan of ten thousand years.

The garden dates to the year 1630 and was designed by the famous garden designer and tea master Kobori Enshu.

Generally, bridges in Japanese gardens symbolize a journey, a transition from one state of being to another. They act as connectors, linking various elements of the garden and serving to guide visitors on a thoughtfully curated path through the space.

Arched bridges or Soribashi are iconic features in Japanese gardens, instantly recognizable with their semi-circular arc. They symbolize a difficult journey or crossing over to another world due to their steep incline and thus are commonly associated with the journey to paradise.

Shirahashi, or flat bridges, represent a more straightforward path in life and are usually used to bridge small streams or seemingly arbitrary points in the garden.

This gravel bridge with the moss sides was definitely my favorite.

Garden lanterns were brought to Japan from China in 600 A.D. With the introduction of Buddhism. Silver and stone lanterns were used primarily to illuminate Japanese pagodas and temples. In Buddhism, the light of the lantern represents overcoming the ignorance of darkness.

Lanterns began sprouting up in gardens due to Tea Ceremonies. These special occasions were most often held in the evenings, giving rise to their need. The lanterns were usually placed near water or along a curve in a path.

Tachi-Gata – Also called ‘pedestal lanterns’, have long pedestals and massive construction. Normally, they have a stylized lotus flower at the top. A flower in Japanese culture is a symbol for growing wealth and career progress.

Yukimi-Gata – Also known as “snow viewing” lanterns because they capture snowfall on their broad roof. The origin of these Japanese lanterns dates back to the Edo era. In Japanese culture and civilization, it is thought that Yukimi-Gata lanterns symbolize the cycle of life, particularly the figure of mother. Their other significance is early marriage.

Throughout Japan, you can see hundreds of young and old trees benefiting from human-made supports fashioned from bamboo, burlap and wood timbers. For the young, these structures help manage their growth. Old trees often receive bracing for long, heavy branches, helping extend their life.

Circular bracing under the pine tree

A stunning outbuilding and entry arch alongside the garden.

I am not alone in believing that the traditional Japanese garden is considered one of the most important elements of Japanese art.

These trees were not in the Imperial Garden, but since I am discussing gardens, I thought I would talk about them. This is daisugi, which roughly translates to platform cedar.

The technique was developed during the Ōei era (1394-1427) in Kitayama as there simply was not enough land, to produce lumber for homes. Each shoot is pruned every 2 years or so to keep the tree straight and knotless. The entire process takes 20 years and each tree can produce up to 100 off shoots.

The lumber produced in this method is 140% as flexible as standard cedar and 200% as dense/strong, than standard cedar, making it perfect for rafters and roof timber, and making it through typhoons.

Kennin-ji and Sor-ren-in Temples of Kyoto

Japan, Kyoto

Dec 042023

December 2, 2023

The one thing you can get overwhelmed with and then exhausted from is the vast amount of temples in Kyoto.

Over 1600 Buddhist temples are scattered throughout the Kyoto Prefecture, as well as 400 Shinto shrines. Those are the ones big enough to count. There are countless other small ones.

How do I approach writing about them without boring even myself? We shall see.

Kennin-ji

Kenninji was founded by Eisai, the Buddhist monk who introduced both Zen Buddhism and tea cultivation to Japan upon returning from study trips to China. The temple was constructed in 1202 and is considered to be the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto.

Zenkyo-an is a small temple inside the Kennin-ji complex. It dates from 1327 and was founded by the monk Seisetsu. Zenkyo-an is noted for its female deity, Marishiten.

Marishiten-do enshrines the Indian Goddess of Light, Marici, known as Marishiten in Japanese. She is often depicted as either riding on a boar or in a chariot being pulled by boars.

Hallway in Kyushu-in Temple, a part of the Kenyan-ji complex

Sho-ren-in

Shōrenin is one of the city’s monzeki temples, which are temples whose head priests were traditionally members of the imperial family.

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It was nice to get away from the crowds running from “must do” to “must do” on the tourist lists and visit some temples the way they were intended, with quiet and the ability to reflect.

Strolling the Streets of Kyoto

Japan, Kyoto

Dec 042023

December 2023

I spent this morning just doing a Sunday Saunter. It was nice to see a side of Kyoto that has history, beauty, and serenity.

These are a few things that caught my eye.

A small little ray of sunshine outside someone’s front door

A random sign on one of the many, many shopping streets.

The ginkgo trees are beginning to lose their leaves.

As the leaves fell, some took the time to create the perfect Christmas Card.

Some people know how to have all the fun.

Yaji-san & Kita-san on the Sanjō Ōhashi Bridge

During the Edo Period, the Tōkaidō road became the most important route in Japan, connecting the capital Kyoto to Edo. The most popular way to travel the Tōkaidō was by foot, as only the richest being able to rent a kago (A small basketwork palanquin slung from a pole carried on the shoulders of two men.). Because of this Tōkaidō was dotted with inns, but it still was not an easy trek. The number of people traveling through the Tōkaidō route just for sightseeing started to rise after the appearance of a book, Tōkaidōchū Hizakurige, which told of the amusing adventures of two travelers, Yaji-san and Kita-san. So today, these two are immortalized where their voyage ended.

Someone had the creativity to add art class articulated hands to a mannequin. It gave him a sense of reality and a great way to hold a sign.

I will admit I have a passion for dango, especially matcha dango

Dango is a Japanese dumpling made from rice flour mixed with uruchi rice flour and glutinous rice flour. It is different from mochi, which is made after steaming glutinous rice.

Not far from my hotel runs the Shirakawa River. It is beautiful both day and night.

The Shirakawa River- means “white river” in Japanese and is so called because it is composed of sand and granite. The water originates in the foothills of Mount Hiei on the outskirts of Kyoto, wends its way through parts of Kyoto, and eventually flows into the Kamo River.

Most Japanese rock gardens in Kyoto have historically used gravel as one of their design elements, sourced from the upper reaches of the Shirakawa River.

It is funny how the streets of Kyoto, outside of the Gion District and the popular tourist destinations, are not crowded and a pleasure to walk.

However, this area is primarily filled with very small mom-and-pop restaurants. You are reminded of the high number of tourists, as every restaurant is filled to the brim by 7:00 in the evening. It makes it very difficult to decide on dinner at the spur of the moment.

A Rant Regarding Over-Tourism

Japan, Kyoto

Dec 042023

December 2, 2023

I have discussed the fact that it is Momiji-gari season in Japan. I have attributed a large portion of the crowds to this since the lesser temples appear to be quiet and peaceful.

Today was so bad that it gave even this seasoned traveler pause. I do not travel to be a part of a horde of people clicking off destinations. Even worse, hordes that are rude and disrespectful of the local culture.

Today, I wondered why I was here. But I am not alone. The Japanese actually have a word for what I am seeing: Kankō kōgai, or tourism pollution.

In January of 2023, the Japanese Tourism Board predicted a 450% year-on-year increase in inbound tourism, and they were probably spot on. They also predicted an 8.6% increase in domestic travel.

I will grant you, it is a Saturday and a glorious one at that, but this was the crowd in just one small sliver of the vast Kiyomizu-Dera Temple. Yes, Kiyomizu-Dera is best known for this very wooden stage that juts out from its main hall, but who wants to enjoy the view amongst that?

If you are worrying about the safety of being on an ancient platform with a crowd like that, here are the underpinnings of the structure.

Kiyomizu-dera was founded in 780 on the site of the Otowa Waterfall and derives its name from the fall’s pure waters. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Beneath the main hall is the Otowa waterfall, where three channels of water fall into a pond. Visitors can catch and drink the water, which is believed to have wish-granting powers.

The Koyasu is an impressive three-story pagoda complete with a spire, which was designed to house sacred texts and relics. Built between 1607 and 1633 CE, it is an excellent example of Momoyama architecture.

These crowds were just a small sample of what covered the streets of the Higashiyama and Gion Districts.

The area feels more like a movie set or Disneyland than a city. The streets hawk cheap tourist wares and lots and lots of food. They are also filled with people who have rented kimonos for the day and stop in the middle of the street, with no respect for anyone around them to shoot a selfie or pose ad nauseam for their friends.

This is a HUGE business in this part of Kyoto, with hundreds of places to rent outfits for the day.

She was a delight to capture and a true reason to stop and rent a kimono.

These girls were lovely and probably having a wonderful time, however, in Japan, drinking coffee and or eating while walking is generally considered impolite and disrespectful. This action even has a name in Japan: Tabearuki (食べ歩き) “eating while walking”. The word is a combination of two Japanese verbs: 食べる (taberu), which means “to eat”, and 歩き (aruki), which means “to walk”.

But why is it disrespectful? One reason Japanese people often give for not eating while walking is that there is a time and place for everything. It is important to develop an appreciation and respect for the seasonality and the geographical origins of flavors and ingredients. Eating while walking is seen as disrespectful to the food and the person preparing it. If you delve far enough, you may even be able to attribute it to the Shinto Religion, which feels that quiet while eating is imperative, something that is not possible if you are eating in the streets.

This is not a new thing. In the Edo period (1603-1868), the ruling shogunate enforced strict rules regarding behavior and etiquette. These rules included not eating or drinking outside of designated areas, such as inns and tea houses. This was done to prevent people from disturbing the peace or creating a mess on the streets.

Even if the food is displayed on the street, it is not to be eaten on the street. Find a bench or sit inside to consume your treat.

Prior to Covid, Kyoto had been buckling under the strain of over-tourism, with congestion and bad behavior. With etiquette problems becoming so widely reported in the news, some Japanese avoided going to Kyoto.

Kyoto has once again been receiving record numbers of foreign tourists. China lifted its three-year ban on group tours to Japan, and Kyoto is now flooded with Chinese tour groups (along with Korean, Taiwanese, Thai, and others). Western visitors are also coming in record numbers, attracted by the affordability of Japan due to the weak yen.

The result is that Kyoto is now filled to capacity with tourists.

To top it off, Tourism Minister Tetsuo Saito and U.S. Ambassador to Japan Rahm Emanuel signed a memorandum of cooperation to designate 2024 as a year to promote tourism between the two countries.

The number of U.S. visitors to Japan has been steadily increasing, as I said, aided by the depreciation of the yen against the dollar. The monthly figure totaled some 210,000 in October, up by 40% from the same month in 2019, before the pandemic.

I LOVE Kyoto, and this is not a rant against the city or its citizens but against the ridiculous amount of tourists and their bad behavior. I am a firm believer in knowing the culture before you hop on an airplane and respecting it once you get there. Look but don’t touch, and enjoy the experience – the hell with the Instagram photo. Also, try to learn a few polite phrases in the language of the country you are visiting. I have attempted to go beyond please, thank you, and good morning in Japan. I am trying hard to learn the language. I believe I will finally begin to form an entire sentence in 2200.

Kyoto was on the verge of bankruptcy due to covid, as they rely solely on tourism, so this influx is making it profitable for the local businesses, but it is truly turning some parts of Kyoto into a vast phony environment of costumes and tourist traps. Something many Japanese businesses most likely feel isn’t worth the extra profit.

I will avoid the more popular locations as best as possible, and from here forward, I will write about the lesser-known, lesser-trodden parts of Kyoto. (I hope)

Kyoto, Japan – Kinkaku-ji and Ryoanji

Japan, Kyoto

Dec 012023

November 30, 2023

I was in Kyoto with my late husband in 2009, and I have nothing but wonderful memories. I fell in love with Kyoto. I was not maintaining a website at the time, so my photos, as lovely as they are, sit in photo albums on a shelf. For this reason, I look forward to photographing Kyoto again and putting my experiences in an easily accessible space.

Kinkaku-ji

Kinkaku-ji is a Zen Buddhist temple. In 1397, the third Shogun of Ashikaga took over the area and built the Kitayama palace centered on the Kinkaku, or golden stupa.

For reasons that are still unclear to this day, in 1950, a 22-year-old novice monk named Hayashi Yoken burned the pavilion down before attempting suicide. He survived and was sentenced to seven years in prison. He was released after being diagnosed with schizophrenia. The event was memorialized in the ballet RAkU and the book The Temple of the Golden Pavillion by author Yukio Mishima, who, himself is memorialized in the Inujima Museum.

The fishing deck at the rear of the pavilion

The temple grounds are an excellent example of the Muromachi period garden design, considered to be one of the classical ages of Japanese garden design.

Ryonji Temple

Ryonji is most likely the most famous rock garden in the world. Originally an aristocrat’s villa during the Heian Period, the site was converted into a Zen temple in 1450.

The history of the garden is actually murky. The date of construction is unknown, and there are a number of speculations regarding its designer.

The garden consists of a rectangular plot of pebbles surrounded by low earthen walls, with 15 rocks laid out in small groups on patches of moss. An interesting feature of the garden’s design is that from any vantage point, at least one of the rocks is always hidden from the viewer.

Here are some shots of walking the grounds of Ryoanji with the fall colors taking center stage.

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Momiji-gari at Nanzenji Temple

Japan, Kyoto

Dec 012023

December 1, 2023

The tourists are rather overwhelming in Kyoto at present, and the reason is Momiji-gari. Momiji-gari literally means “hunting red leaves’. It derives from momiji (red leaves or maple tree) and kari (hunting).

I visited three major temples today, and once you realize there is nothing you can do with the teems of people and that this is not a time to visit the temple to see it, but a time to visit the temple to view the changing of the colors, you can sort of just go with the flow. Sort of being the operative word, it is impossible to describe how many people are here for Momiji-gari.

Nanzenji

The first temple on my list today was Nanzenji. Nanzenji is one of the most important Zen Buddhist temples in all of Japan. The history of Nanzenji dates back to the mid-13th century when the Emperor Kameyama built his retirement villa at the temple’s present location and later converted it into a Zen temple. All of the buildings were destroyed during the civil wars of the late Muromachi Period (1333-1573)—the oldest of the buildings that stand today dates to after the war.

Your first encounter is the massive Sanmon entrance gate. The gate was constructed in 1628 by the ruling Tokugawa clan for soldiers who died in the siege of Osaka Castle in 1615.

Oddly running through a portion of the grounds is a large brick aqueduct that goes by the name Suirokaku Water Bridge and is part of the Lake Biwa Canal. The Canal was built in the late 1800s during the early part of the Meiji period. The purpose of the Lake Biwa Canal was to help in Kyoto’s development by moving water from the lake to the city. The waterway was used for drinking water, power generators, and transportation. Today, the water from the canal is used for general water supply and firefighting.

The Tenjuan Temple is a small sub-temple dedicated to the Zen master who served Emperor Kameyama in his religious studies. Dating to the 17th century, it is noted for karesansui (dry garden). The garden was named Toranokowatashi (young dragons crossing the water) after the shape of the rocks. This garden is said to have been designed by a renowned landscape architect, Kobori Enshu, around 1600.

Standing on the second floor of the Sanmon, looking down on one of the many sub-temples.

A piece of broken pottery on the ground near the rock garden

I have always loved the woodwork under the eaves of Japanese temples

A gentleman sweeping leaves off the roof of a building at the approach to Nanzenji Temple

Momiji-gari at Eikando Zenrin-ji Temple

Japan, Kyoto

Dec 012023

December 1, 2023

I would have loved to have taken photos of the structures and walkways of this temple. However, it was wall-to-wall people, and photos were almost impossible, with the exception of looking out over the rails. I had to go with the flow and simply enjoy the momiji-gari.

Eikando belongs to the Jodo sect of Japanese Buddhism and is one of the most famous places in Kyoto to observe momij-gari. The amount of people visiting is a testament to that.

Eikando’s main buildings are built alongside the base of a hillside and are connected by wooden corridors.

The Karamon (entry gate) is named after the ancient Korean kingdom of Goguryeo (Kōraiin Japanese). The current structure dates from the late Edo period (mid-19th century).

Exterior, off limits, stairway lined with fall foliage

A small bit of art on the exterior of the main temple

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This is Hojo Pond. Small streams run through the temple grounds and connect to this main pond.

Hojo Pond

A small shrine on the island in Hojo Pond

Sometimes, one has to slow down and just go with the flow. As hard as that is for the type-A, I did pretty well.

Ginkakuji – the Silver Pavillion

Japan, Kyoto

Dec 012023

December 1, 2023

Walking the Philosopher’s Path between Eikando Zenrin-ji Temple and The Silver Pavillion

The Philosophers Path

The Philosophers Path follows a canal which is lined by hundreds of cherry trees. It must be spectacular when the cherry blossoms bloom. It is one of the city’s most popular hanami (cherry blossom viewing) spots. It was lovely today as well.

The path got its name due to Nishida Kitaro, one of Japan’s most famous philosophers, who was said to practice meditation while walking this route on his daily commute to Kyoto University.

I have mentioned the canal before with regard to the aqueduct that runs through Nanzen-ji.

According to a sign along the canal several blocks away: The canal was a huge undertaking for the economic revitalization of Kyoto. This project began following the transfer of the imperial capital to Edo (now Tokyo) as a result of the Meiji Restoration of 1868.

Sakuro Tanabe (1861-1944) was the individual responsible for the oversight of this sink-or-swim enterprise for the former capital. Born in Edo as the son of a swordsman towards the last days of the shogunate, young Tanabe proposed the Kyoto-Lake Biwa canalization project in his graduate thesis from the Imperial College. Kunimichi Kigagaki, the third governor of Kyoto Prefecture, adopted the ambitious plan and put the 23-year-old Tanabe in charge.

The construction of the Kyoto-Lake Biwa canal was almost beyond the limits of Japanese technology at the time. The project was realized by 4 million workers and funds of 1.25 million yen (1 trillion yen today). Furthermore, the first appearance in Japan of the shaft boring method in which pits were dug down to the canal route for faster excavation and the combined zeal of Tanabe and the many others involved led to the completion of the project in 1890 after five years of grueling efforts.

After its construction, the canal began to be used for transporting a variety of goods from Lake Biwa to Kyoto, then onward to Osaka, for agricultural irrigation as well as for electricity at Keage, where the first electric train service started in Japan.

The Keage Incline is a former railway line converted into a gently sloping pedestrian trail lined with cherry trees that links the Lake Biwa Canal to Kyoto’s Kamo River.

A class of schoolchildren walking the Kiege Incline

Ojizo-sama along the Philosphers Path

Ginkakuji – the Silver Pavilion

After two temples of Momiji-gari, Ginkakuji was a breath of fresh air. It was nowhere near as crowded, but for me, it ticked off a lot of the things I look for in a zen garden—water, sand, moss, and peace.

Ginkakuji is a Zen temple. In 1482, shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa built his retirement villa on the grounds of today’s temple, modeled after Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion), his grandfather’s retirement villa. The villa was converted into a Zen temple after Yoshimasa’s death in 1490.

Despite its name, the Silver Pavilion was never covered in silver. Instead, it is believed that the name arose as a nickname more than a century after the building’s construction to contrast it with the Golden Pavilion. Alternatively, it is explained that moonlight reflecting on the building’s dark exterior (which used to be covered in black lacquer) gave it a silvery appearance.

This meticulously maintained dry sand garden is known as the “Sea of Silver Sand”, with its massive sand cone (kogetsudai) named “Moon Viewing Platform”.

The Ginkakuji kogetsudai, whose practical purpose is nonexistent and whose aesthetic purpose can only really be guessed at, is an example of a “contemplative” use of the Zen garden, i.e., the labor-intensive construction and maintenance of the garden itself.

More of the sand garden at Ginkakuji

Ginkakuji is also known for its moss garden

A stone path climbs a hill where you can see the entire temple grounds and the city beyond.

The slowly fading sun in the swaying bamboo

It has been an exhausting day, but a stunningly beautiful one as well.