Bodhgaya – ALL I NEED IS MY PASSPORT

Samadhi of Bodhgaya

Bodhgaya

Dec 202018

December 2, 2018

Bodhgaya is one of the holiest sites in Buddhism. This is where Buddha found enlightenment under the Bodhi tree. The tree is the center of the Mahabodhi Temple, which is a UNESCO world heritage site. While it is said that over 30 million people visit the state of Bihar, and therefore, most likely, Bodhgaya, on a yearly basis, the town itself is still a backward, undeveloped community.

The Samādhi

There are a large amount of important historical and archeological sites that lay in utter disrepair and are ignored by both the locals, tourists, and government officials.

Last year I visited such a site called The Math, which you can read about here.

This site is part of The Math and is a Samādhi for the Mahants that built and ruled The Math. You must enter the Mahabodhi Temple complex, and then double back after security to the small little trinket shop area. This is not an easy site to find.

Samādhi is the Hindi name for a temple commemorating the dead (similar to a tomb or mausoleum), which may or may not contain the body of the deceased. Samādhi sites are often built to honor people regarded as saints or gurus.

Notice the fish above the door. I do not believe I have ever seen this iconography used in India.

A mahant is a religious superior, in particular, the chief priest of a temple or the head of a monastery

In India, most Hindu people are cremated. Samadhi is generally reserved for very advanced souls, such as yogis and saints, who have already been “purified by the fire of yoga” or who are believed to have been in the state of samadhi at time of death. This is essentially what a westerner can understand as Nirvana. Since this person has already attained samadhi, there is no need for another life, so they are buried rather than cremated.

Hundreds of Mahants of Bodhgaya, unlike other Hindus, are buried in cemeteries rather than cremated.

A votive stupa with a broken Shiva lingam on top

A shiva lingam and a sweet tourist shop statue of Buddha

These tower like ornaments can be found on the top of many of the votive stupas This one is accompanied by a sweet tourist shop statue of Buddha

This cemetery is marked by several votive stupas often topped with lingams to indicate their religious affiliation as Shaivite monks. I was told that after cremation the Mahants are placed in the lotus position and placed inside of the stupas.

It is assumed the Samadhi was constructed in the early seventeenth century due to a report by one of the earlier, and most well-known archeologist to visit India, Alexander Cunningham.

In 1861 Cunningham said:

“Close to the Great temple, there is a small plain Samadhi or cenotaph, over the remains of the earliest Brahmanical Mahant. …Ghamandi Giri, the founder of the Math, was buried in front of the Mahabodhi Temple, and a shrine or Samadhi was erected over the spot, which still exists. To the east of the Mahabodhi temple is the Math of the Mahants which is still under occupation.”

Notice the Shiva lingam inside

Raja Rajendralal Mitra ( 1822 – 1891) said the following in 1878.

For Mahants the (funerary) temple is large and elaborately ornamented. It would seem that even for neophytes a lingam was held essential: but in the majority of cases, its place was supplied by a miniature votive stupa picked up from the Buddhist ruins in the neighborhood.”

Mitra was the first modern Indologist of Indian origin and was a pioneering figure in the Bengal Renaissance. He was also a noted antiquarian and the first scientific historiographer from Bengal.

In David Geary’s The Rebirth of Bodh Gaya: Buddhism and the Making of a World Heritage Site, published in 2017, he says:

“…many of the Math’s properties and former kutcheries (farmhouses) have been demolished by Maoist rebels and/or are fast deteriorating. One example is the Math’s Samadhi burial ground…Wandering through the graveyard filled with Shiva lingams and miniature votive stupas one afternoon, I was struck by the colorful pastel images of various deities such as Shiva, Kali, and Ganesh that covered the walls of the large, impressive tombs of former mahants. Except for these ghostly images, there was no one to be found. The owner of a chai stall nearby explained to me that few people visit the Samadhi graveyard or other Math properties, save the occasional wandering sadhu. Instead, they have become popular haunts for youth as a place to consume alcohol and smoke ganja (marijuana) through the night without fear of public reprisal.”

The designs spoke of, I was told these were done by a Tibetan monk, which makes no sense, but the kid who told me probably thought it sounded good.

The designs David Geary spoke of, I was told these were done by a Tibetan monk, which makes no sense, but the kid who told me probably thought it sounded good.

Today you can not get into the samādhi without going through the security system of the Mahabodhi Temple. There once was access from a side street, but that is now walled off. As you can see by the photos the site is in terrible shape.

Votive stupas dot the landscape of the Samādhi

Trash is strewn throughout the property, but it must be noted that trash is strewn throughout all of India

linga or Shiva linga, is an abstract or aniconic representation of the Hindu deity Shiva in Shaivism.[1] It is a votary symbol revered in temples, smaller shrines, or as self-manifested natural objects.[2][3] The lingam is often represented within a lipped, disc-shaped platform called a yoni that symbolizes goddess Shakti

A linga or Shiva lingam is an abstract representation of the Hindu deity Shiva in Shaivism. It is a votary symbol and is often represented within a lipped, disc-shaped platform called a yoni that symbolizes goddess Shakti.

A bell is often rung to help focus the mind during prayer.

The buildings are made of brick and then covered over in cement. You can see how the round columns were formed by using round bricks.

Inserted into this particular building are small squares of continuous sitting Buddhas. I first saw these in The Math, and have since seen them in museums and all over Bodhgaya in ruins. It is an obvious indication of one society utilizing the ruins of another to build anew.

More appropriation…

This Ganesha was mortared into this niche, which might explain why it was still there.

Only one of the structures had carvings on the roof, it was difficult to see exactly what they were, but I believe I made out Haneyman,

Only one of the structures had carvings on the roof, it was difficult to see exactly what they were, but I believe I made out Hanuman.

Some people still bring small tokens into the ssss, this one appears to have had a small accident.

Some people still bring small tokens into the samadhi, this one appears to have had a small accident.

Here are some just random shots of an amazing out of the way spot in the hustle of the Mahabodhi Temple.

I wandered all over and climbing the stairs gave wonderful overall views of the area.

Once you leave the samadhi you can turn to the right and find a small Saraswati Temple with a huge stone. I was told by a boy that was hanging around that it was a Kalachakra Wheel. Kalachakra means Wheel of Time and is the name of one of the Buddhist deities which represent particular aspects of the Enlightened Mind. However, I was later told that it is not, but that it is 800 years old. It is Tibetan, so this makes me really wonder how it got here, in a Hindi Temple surrounded by a Samadhi in India.

This stone did not originate here, but where it came from is unknown.

The wheel is carved all the way around, but much has been worn down with time.

Saraswati is the Hindu goddess of knowledge, music, art, wisdom, and learning. She is a part of the trinity of Saraswati, Lakshmi and Parvati. All the three forms help the trinity of Brahma, Vishnuand Shiva to create, maintain and regenerate-recycle the Universe respectively.

If you don’t want to buy the trinkets found along the alley, there are prayer candles to light as well.

December 10, 2018

I went back to the cemetery several days later and much had changed. There is now a Tibetan Buddhist monk helping to clean the area up. He explained to me that it was a very important Buddhist location as well since it is said that Mahakala resides here. Mahakala is a deity common to Hinduism, Buddhism, and Sikhism. Mahakala also appears as a protector deity known as Dharmapala in Vajrayana Buddhism, particularly in most Tibetan traditions.

I wanted to shoot the entire place again in Black and White, so I quietly wandered around when I met a sadhu. The sadhu explained that the drawings, mentioned above, that are on the walls of one of the temples, were done by a prior sadhu who lived on the grounds for two years, and whose body has now passed. A sadhu is a religious ascetic, mendicant (monk) or any holy person in Hinduism and Jainism who has renounced the worldly life.

The sadhu I spoke to

Here are some of the black and white photos I shot, it gives one a completely different feeling for the place.

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Barabar Caves

Bodhgaya

Dec 162018

December 8, 2018

The Barabar Hill Caves are the oldest surviving rock-cut caves in India, and date from the Maurya Empire (322–185 BCE), some have inscriptions from the Ashokan era. During this period rock-cut architecture had become the key feature of Indian architecture.

Barabar Hill contains four caves: Karan Chaupar, Lomas Rishi, Sudama and Visvakarma.

The caves are located in the Makhdumpur region of Jehanabad district, about one hour outside of Bodhgaya.

Most caves at Barabar consist of two chambers, carved entirely out of granite, with a highly polished internal surface and a truly amazing echo effect making for a beautiful sound when we stood inside enjoying chanting by one of my friends.

The oldest of the caves is the “Lomas Rishi cave” with the first known use of the “Chaitya arch’ in stone which would later be replicated in caves across India.

The sculptured surround to the entrance to the Lomas Rishi Cave is the earliest survival of the ogee shaped “Chaitra arch”.

The famous carved door of Lomas Rishi cave, dated to approximately 250 BC, making it the first known Maurya relief.

The famous carved door of Lomas Rishi cave, dates to approximately 250 BC, making it the first known Maurya relief.

A chaitya, or chaitya hall, refers to a shrine, sanctuary, temple or prayer hall in South Asian religions. The term is most common in Buddhism.

The interior of Lomas Rishi cave

Lomas Rishi has no Ashoka inscription, perhaps because it has never been completed due to structural rock slide problems. It is generally considered that is is also from around 260 BCE. There is, however, an inscription above the entrance, from the 5th century CE.

The interior of the unfinished Lomas Richi cave showing the workmen’s tool markings

The inscription above the Lomas Rishi cave entrance.

One inscription in the area says that the four caves were given to the Ajivika monks by King Ashoka in 261 BCE.

A later inscription found on one of the hills speaks of Dasaratha Maurya, the grandson of King Ashoka, which gives the Ajivikas continued use of the caves, it states: ‘The Vahiyaka cave has been given by Dasaratha, dear to the gods, to venerable Ajivakas, to be a place of abode during the monsoon as long as sun and moon shall endure’

The Ajivaka faith came about around the time of Buddhism and Jainism, during tumultuous times of India, the Ajivaka faith did not survive. The founder of the Ajivika faith was a preacher named Makkhali Gosala, a contemporary of Gautama Buddha and Mahavira, one of the high preachers of Jainism.

The faith died out around the 5th century CE, but it is not known why. After the Avijikas died out the caves were occupied by Buddhists, Jains, and Hindus.

Ashoka dedicated the caves of Sudama and Visvakarma to the Ajivikas in the 12th year of his reign, when his religious evolution towards Buddhism was not yet fully completed. Later, Ashoka built the caves of Lomas Rishi and Karan Chaupar in the 19th year of his reign, at a time when he had become a firm advocate of Buddhism, so it is possible they were dedicated to Buddha, but there are no inscriptions to verify this, and this theory conflicts with the inscription stating that Ashoka’s grandson gave the Avijikas continued use of the caves.

Looking back at the rock showing some of the entrances

Carvings at the entrance to the area.

E.M. Foster used these caves as the setting for the misunderstood violation incident in his novel Passage to India.

Very close to the caves, but up a very steep hill is Vanavar Shiv Mandir (Hindi temple). We could not leave without exploring.

This hill, known as Siddheshwar Peak, has been a place of Hindu pilgrimage for many centuries and accounts for the majority of local visitors to the site. The three of us were the only people at the Barabar caves, but we encountered many many people when we climbed up and down to the Shiva Temple.

Siddheshwar, which is also a boy’s name in India, means ‘ Lord of the Blessed’.

Carvings of Hindi gods and Shiva Linga are found all the way up the last portion of the climb

The present temple is fairly new and was built atop one that had disappeared by 1993, the original was possibly from the Gupta period (300-500 BCE), the local legends attribute it to Bana Raja, the father-in-law of the King Jarasandha of Rajgir.

My friends Linda and Stefanie doing a puja at the Shiva temple

The climb was rather arduous in the Indian heat, Yoga Teacher/Landscape Architect Stefanie decided a stretch was needed on our way down the hill

There are conflicting stories about these holes. Our guide insisted they were the steps carved by Ashoka to get to the caves. However, another, and possibly more logical explanation is that they were used in the rock cutting process. Wooden wedges were pounded into pre-cut holes that were all in a row, then water was poured onto them. The dry wooden wedges would soak up the water and expand, and split the stone. However, I have a problem with this explanation, because the holes were rather too large for splitting the stone efficiently.

There are more than 1,500 known rock cut structures in India. Many of these structures contain artwork of global and historical importance, and most are adorned with exquisite stone carvings. These ancient structures represent significant achievements in both structural engineering and craftsmanship.

The Jethian Valley – Walking in Buddha’s Footsteps

Bodhgaya, India

Dec 142017

December 2017

December 13th we walked The Buddha Walk. First organized in 2014 by several Buddhist organizations it is intended to revive and spread the history of Jethian-Rajgir valley.

Before the walk, everyone from the very small village of Jethian gathers to distribute food to monks in observance of Sanghadana, an ancient tradition that stems from the time of the Buddha, who while staying in the village would visit homes to collect food.

The walk ends 14 kilometers away in Rajgir at the Sonebandhar caves.

Rajgir is in itself, an important pilgrimage center for several religious traditions, mainly, Hinduism, Jainism, and Buddhism.

The hills of the Jethian Valley straddle the jurisdiction of the Nalanda and Gaya districts. This valley contains what is believed to be one of the main routes taken by the Buddha during his 45 years of wandering and preaching in various parts of India. During the Buddha’s time, Rajgir was the first capital of the Kingdom of Magadha, and according to legend, it is believed that King Bimbisara greeted the Buddha in the Jethian Valley and invited him to reside in the area of Venu Van (Bamboo Grove) where he gifted land for the Sangha’s rain retreats.

The streets were decorated in bright chalk patterns to welcome the pilgrims

Every home that lined the main street had members of the family serving food to the pilgrims

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The final stop was this open area where the monks sat to enjoy their food

Senior monks enjoying the rest before the long walk

Water served from the well by volunteers

Volunteers from around the town

Selfies are such a huge part of every culture, even in India

Pilgrims taking photos with the locals. The traditional dress of pilgrims is all white

All the school children lined the streets as we left the village waving, saying Namaste, Goodbye, Have a pleasant journey. It was very sweet and heartfelt

We encountered villagers for the first 1/2 kilometer as we walked out of town

There were approximately 1000 or more monks and lay people that did the walk

It was a very warm day making everyone seek the shelter of the shade from time to time

Despite the smog, you could catch glimpses of the mountains from time to time.

While some of it was beautifully tree-lined, planting trees in the valley is a priority for those discussing restoring this historic pilgrimage site.

Stupas were proposed for the area but the government pooh-poohed it, so “kilometer markers” line the path instead.

Many were just too hot to finish, a truck passed by and they hitched a ride.

If you made it all the way to the Sonbandehar caves several ice cream vendors awaited. This fellow was enterprising enough to move his cart 1/2 kilometer up the road to catch all of the business before you reached the caves.

It was a lovely day, albeit, way too hot for this California girl. Walking on a rocky path makes for very tired feet and very tired bones, but to have walked in the footsteps of Buddha is something very special.

Finding Ancient History in Bodhgaya

Bodhgaya, India

Dec 072017

December 2017

Wandering the town of Bodhgaya I could spot this old building peaking above the normal height of many of the other buildings, but it took walking down a dirt alley to actually get to it.

I walked through this doorway and down this little dirt pathway to find an odd array of delapidated structures.

Looking back on a set of beautiful wooden doors that led to the little dirt pathway where I found an odd array of dilapidated structures.

It took me some research to find that it was called the Math, which is a word I could not find any meaning or etymology for. It is also called the House of the Mahant, and it has taken me quite a long time to find much about what I saw.

Hindi ornamental architectural remnants embedded in the doorway.

Essentially the Mahabodhi Temple of Bodhgaya was a very important Buddhist site until the first part of the thirteenth century A.D. and its destruction by Turk invaders. There is no information regarding the temple from the time of the Turkish invasion to the time of the arrival in the area of the temple, of a wandering Sanyasi (Saivite Hindu monk) named Mahant Ghamandi Giri in 1590.

The building that caught my eye. The buildings are occupied by squatters and it is very difficult to find anything about the site

The Shaivaite monastic institution grew to be an extensive landed estate surrounding the Mahabodhi Temple that may have covered as much as 17,000 acres. The Math, rose to prominence during the Mughal and British colonial periods, especially after a royal grant during the time of the late Mughal rulers. A supreme court ruling of 1987 limited the Math to a holding of just 100 of those acres.

A fun painted arch in one of the structures

A fun painted arch in the small structure that originally caught my eye.

The Math contained the ruins of old temples and many of these were used in the construction of new temples and buildings within the Math. Many of the images, earlier used as decorative panels in the older temples, became objects of worship by the Mahants and the local populace.

These rows and rows of Buddhist images can be found on the votive stupas inside the Mahabodhi Temple complex

These rows and rows of Buddhist images are inside the archway of the structure that originally caught my eye. Passing through the archway your enter a garden area with more structures beyond

Small Buddhas embedded in just one of many votive stupas inside the Mahabodhi temple complex

The same small Buddhas can be found embedded in many of the votive stupas inside the Mahabodhi temple complex

Dr. Francis Buchanan, an explorer with the East India Company first visited the area in December of 1811 and wrote:

A large courtyard between many of the rundown structures

“This person in the course of his penitent wanderings came to this place, then overrun with wood and bushes, and finding the temple a convenient shelter, took up his abode in it, until his extraordinary sanctity attracted the notice of numerous pilgrims and he became a principal object of veneration among the powerful chiefs and wealthy merchants who occasionally frequented Gya. From these, he received the various endowments which his successors enjoy.”

“I went to Buddh Gaya, distant from the south end of (the) Sahebganj near six miles, and situated on the west side of the Fulgo. The houses and gardens of Gaya extend about 1.25 miles south from Sahibgunj. The country through which I passed, overloaded with plantations. I was here visited by and visited the Mahant, who received me very civilly, and his principal chelas, who have been very great travelers, were fond of talking on the subject, and had here laid aside the habit of begging; on the contrary, they are here exceedingly charitable or hospitable.”

There is a nice field that serves as a vegetable garden through the archway of one of the still standing structures.

There is a nice field that serves as a vegetable garden through the archway of the building that first caught my eye.

The Building maintains much of the same appearance it had in the times of Buchanan. Buchanan goes on to describe the math:

“The convent is surrounded by a high brick wall containing a very considerable space on the banks of the west branch of the Fulgo, between it and the great temple of Buddh Gya. The wall has turrets in the corners and some at the sides, and has two great gates, the handsomest part of the building.”

On the other side of the open field are these two votive stupas.

Just past the votive stupas is this beautiful red, very British looking building. It is a home for squatters.

On the other side of the big open courtyard is an entry doorway to the Mahant's residence

Walking back through the Buddha ornamented archway and on to the other side of the big open courtyard is an entry doorway to the Mahant’s residence.

The interior courtyard of the Mahant’s Residence

Inside the courtyard of the Mahant’s residence is a raised platform with a marble floor and a Hindi shrine.

One side of the Hindi Shrine

Peeking into the rooms of the Mahant’s residence you find a Buddhist shrine. These are most likely statues that once stood in the Mahabodhi Temple

Cows in a stable that looks like it has always been a stable building

I have done a lot of research and could find no information as to what this is, what is says or why it is there. It sits inside one of the votive stupas in the garden and has, what appears to be, Sanskrit, Thai and Burmese writing.

It was a great day tripping upon a very ancient and historic set of buildings, it is sad that they are in such a state of disrepair and in the hands of squatters. One must, however, realize how many millions of ruins that stand in India, and just one more is obviously just something that would cost money if it were renovated or cared for.

It shows you, getting lost, looking around or just pursuing odd things you see, always makes for a great adventure.

An 1883 study of the Math is available here.

A Parade and a lot of Speeches

Bodhgaya, India

Dec 042017

December 2017

The 13th Annual Tipitaka Chanting Ceremony in Bodhgaya began on December 2nd this year. The first morning starts with a loud, decoration filled walk from the host temple, this year it was the Royal Thai Temple, to the Kalichakra.

The lead is a horse drawn carriage loaded with the Tipitaka chanting scripts.

The lead carriage

The head abbot and the Thai Temple

Before the parade begins, blessings are given by the head abbot, followed by fireworks and dancing.

The drums beat for the opening ceremony.

There was lots of dancing by both Thais and Indians.

Then the cutting of the ribbon so the parage could begin

Then the cutting of the ribbon so the parade could begin

The funny thing is, the parade had already started. The parade set up was on a horseshoe driveway, so they just started from the other end. This meant I ran the course 3 times to get all the entrants and goings on.

It is heartwarming and astounding to see how many countries participate in the Tipitaka Chanting ceremony.

Some had floats elaborately decorated and others simply walked with lotus flowers, the symbol of Buddha

The lay dignitaries rode in horse drawn carriages.

The lesser lay people and the important monks rode in highly decorated tuk-tuks

The horses were as decorated as the floats.

This is Nelson, a member of the BofD of LBDFI and one of my favorite nuns, Meiji Anita

This is Nelson, a member of the B of D of LBDFI and one of my favorite nuns, Maechi Anita.

The term maechi has a fascinating history. It is technically illegal to be ordained as a Buddhist nun in Thailand, so they use the honorific maechi.

The drummers came along to provide noise.

Nelson with Ahajn Amaro, a highly respected Buddhist monk, originally from England.

The were major donors to the event, and a wonderful group of people.

The Zen Flower group from Viet Nam were major donors to the event, and a wonderful group of people.

The Royal Thai temple

All of this was followed by a long list of speakers at the welcoming ceremony before lunch at the Kalichakra.

Sri Nangzey Dorjee, the Secretary, Head of the exceptionally important Temple Management Council

Sri Nangzey Dorjee, the Secretary, and head of the exceptionally important Temple Management Council

More dancing was part of the program

Then we fed thousands.

After lunch was over these four to five thousand people all headed to the Mahabodhi Temple to sit under and around the Bodhi Tree for more speeches.

Raji Ramanan

The Master of Ceremonies was Raji Ramanan. I have had the absolute pleasure of getting to know Raji over the last several weeks. She is a gracious, beautiful and a highly intelligent, accomplished woman. She is an author, translator for the Dali Llama and a scholar. She kept the show flowing, even when the power went out and the microphones died.

The District Magistrate Kumar Ravi

Dr. Ravindra Panth, Advisor IBC of India and faculty member at GBU. I have had the pleasure to spend time with Dr. Panth over the last several weeks, he is as delightful as his smile, and a true gentleman.

The festivities went well into the night with gift giving and more speeches and finished with chanting. An auspicious way to open the ceremony.

I have said before, I do not know what it is about Indian events that require 4 to 5 hours of speeches, but the parade was fun and the program has begun.

Decorating the Mahabodi Temple of Bodhgaya

Bodhgaya, India

Dec 032017

December 2017

Where does one start to explain the monumental project that putting on the 13th Annual Tipitaka Chanting Festival even is. Thailand was the host country this year and so therefore, the main organizers. There was a phenomenal group of people that came, just to decorate the site.

The afternoon of the opening ceremony I was actually able to ask the main designer if there was a single orchid left in all of India, they did an over the top job.

There is really nothing more to say, I am just going to share photographs.

When you enter the temple portion of the great property you go under this archway, it was the first portion they began to decorate. They were only allowed to decorate between 4:00 in the afternoon and 9:00 when the temple closes.

The same gate the next morning.

This altar table was previously decorated by the event before us, these are their decorations.

This is what the Thai team did. The off white flowers are thousands upon thousands of Tuberose blooms, the perfume is alluring.

The main portion of the temple is a small room with the large golden Buddha, there were matching decorations on the two sides of the entry to the chapel area.

The main portion of the temple is a small room with the large golden Buddha, there were matching decorations on the two sides of the entry to this area

The entry to the small room with the Golden Buddha

Buddha found enlightenment under the bodhi tree of Bodhgaya. This is the area directly under the tree where people pay homage to Buddha

This is the focal point of our chanting area. Notice the peacocks on the wall.

Another mind blowing peacock

They came in the middle of the night and put up this three part flowered archway at the top of the stairs. In this case, they are silk, not real.

The finished second archway

There is a wall around the Bhodi tree that serves as a walkway for pilgrims to chant and walk, they decorated with cloth, and then came in and placed silk flowers completely around the two archways that allow access to other areas of the grounds

Looking down into the walkway gives you just a small glimpse into the work put into the decorations.

The banner for the entryway to the complex

They were able to enlist the monks to help. I have found so many of the monks so very, very talented.

Building the peacock tails

There is just no way to show how grand these decorations were, but I can end with a photo of the team that put it all together, the woman on the right, in front, was the lead designer. (The team are the first nine all dressed in white)

Working in Bodhgaya

Bodhgaya, India

Nov 282017

November 28, 2017

We arrived in Bodh Gaya on November 21st. The time has been spent preparing for the 13-day Tipitaka Chanting ceremony held at the Mahabodhi Temple Complex, beginning on December 2nd.

Making lhassi. I love the stuff, but I will only drink pre-packaged ones.

I will admit that 95% of my time has been spent in the loud and uncomfortable lobby of our hotel, as wifi does not spread throughout the building.

I attended a meeting of all the most important monks in the area. Just like any board meeting, it had pads of paper, lots of discussion , and not much accomplished

I attended a meeting of all the most important monks in the area. Just like any board meeting, it had pads of paper, lots of discussions, assistants taking notes, and not much accomplished.

My thinking is regularly interrupted by entire busloads of people coming in, talking in loud voices in a room with marble floors, and carrying suitcases down a stairway to the rhythm of click, clack, thump, thump.

There is a minimum of 3 buses every day that roll in around 7:00 pm and roll out around 6:00 am the next day.
The, as ever, unimaginative food, services these large crowds, not the one or two of us that are there for 2 weeks.

This is reportedly a terrific Japanese restaurant, I have not eaten there, as you must order well in advance.

Outside of a reportedly terrific Japanese restaurant, I have not eaten there, as you must order well in advance, and my schedule has not permitted that kind of planning.

Fortunately, Stefanie Schur, a landscape architect from San Francisco, joined our group. She is here to work on the gardens at the Mahabodhi Temple complex and has been my guide to exterior restaurants and general overall, get out of the hotel moments. She has been a godsend.

There is not much to talk about, but I have had a chance to get out and get a few fun shots. Enjoy!

This fellow carves the items he sells

There are vendors everywhere, selling every imaginable item, most appropriate to the area, and others that make you go huh?

Do they produce good students, or remove their brains?

Gotta love the legs on this guy.

A fellow repairing his wares before selling them.

A delightful Thai monk, here to do the more important decorations for the ceremony. He spent 5 years in Texas so his English is pretty good.

Can this Buddha get any bigger?

One of the bigger projects for this ceremony is the tent where everyone eats and then listens to Dharma talks in the evening.

*The tent is called the Kalachakra, a term used in Vajrayana Buddhism that means wheel of time or “time-cycles”.
“Kālacakra” is usually used to refer to a very complex teaching and practice in Tibetan Buddhism. Although the teaching is very advanced and esoteric, there is a tradition of offering it to large public audiences. Thus the name for this huge tent.

*I was completely blown away by the construction process. They bring in thousands upon thousands of bamboo poles and then erect this huge structure by tying them together with cloth strips. Since there were workers climbing all over it, I must assume it is far stronger than you can imagine, but it is still a WOW moment, a far cry from steel poles and canvas covers.

To add to the fun, these boys all found pieces laying around and turned this soccer goal frame into a swingset. They were having so much fun as their knots failed and they fell to the ground laughing.

I have become somewhat of an expert on masala tea, much to the chagrin of my sugar intake and waistline. This guy at the Royal Thai temple makes some of the best.

I had the chance to stop by the farmers market for a stroll, the vegetables are lovely and so are the people

This is Sanjana, she is a friend of Stefanie’s and was shucking peas when we ran into her and her lovely smile

My favorite street sign in town.

Varanasi – Bodh Gaya and the Road In Between

Bodhgaya, India, Varanasi

Feb 222015

Varanasi in the Morning

February 2015

Up before dawn to catch the river as it wakes. It was truly amazing to be in an Indian city where it is quiet and the streets, while not deserted, were empty but for the sleeping cow and early worker.

Once at the river however, it was the beginning of the day. People are out, washing clothes, performing yoga asanas, offering flowers and fire to the river and also going for a swim.

Ganga “supermarkets” are floating along side happy to sell you whatever you may need, playing cards, post cards, malas, and even candy bars.

Today we passed many fabulous buildings, several funeral ghats and various religious temples doing morning prayers.

Here is our guide serenading us as we float down the river.

A quick breakfast and onto the bus for a six hour ride to Badh Gaya.

It is harvest time for some type of grain so, at 50 miles an hour, a painting of the process opened before our eyes.

The straw left from harvest is put to many uses in India included bio-fuel

A beautiful form of storage for the straw

BODH GAYA

Bodh Gaya is where the Buddha is said to have obtained enlightenment under the Bodhi Tree (Ficus religiosa).

For Buddhists, Bodh Gaya is the most important of the main four pilgrimage sites, the other three being Sarnath, Kushinagar, and Lambini.

Next to the Bodhi Tree there is a platform known as Vajrasana, or the Diamond Throne. This was originally installed by Emperor Ashoka to mark the spot where Buddha sat and meditated.

Buddha’s Footprints

In the shrine are the footprints (Padas) of Buddha carved in black stone that date from the 3rd century BC when Ashoka declared Buddhism to be the official religion. He had thousands of these footprint stones installed all over the kingdom.

Apparently the architecture is a mystery. It appears to have been constructed with the intent of being a monument but later became a receptacle for relics of the Buddha. The temple is one of the few early monumental brick structures to have survived in eastern India.

The base is approximately 50 feet square and the tower, a 19th century construction, rises 170 feet.

Inside the temple there is a huge image of the Buddha in the bhumisparsha mudra “touching the ground pose”. This image is purported to be 1700 years old and is facing east exactly at the place where Buddha obtained enlightenment.

We arrived as the sun was going down and evening prayers began, it was absolutely magical.

Here is a small sample of that magic-