Mar 132015
 
Standing at the top of the world. Skis are off so we could walk to this spot. Notice it is warm enough to ski without a parka.

Standing at the top of the world at Val Thorens. Skis are off so we could walk to this spot.
Notice it is warm enough to ski without a parka.

Courchevel is the name of a ski resort in the French Alps. It is a part of Les Trois Vallées, the largest linked ski area in the world. Courchevel also refers to the towns of Courchevel 1300 (Le Praz), Courchevel 1550, Courchevel 1650 (Moriond), and Courchevel 1850, which are named for their altitudes in meters. That has been confusing to me, because their weather reports are different.  We are at Courchevel 1850.

Courcheval

Les Tre Vallees

The original resort was planned during World War II  by the Vichy regime (the government of Marshal Philippe Pétain 1940–44, based in Vichy)  by  town planner Laurent Chappis. It came about because the General Council of Savoie wanted to boost the economy of the area. Chappis was an architect who essentially wrote the book on ski resort design.  Courchevel 1850 was significant, as it was the first resort in France to be constructed from scratch, rather than based around an existing village.

Meribel

Meribel

One interesting fact I read was that Courchevel is renowned as having some of the most difficult black runs in the world, I can not say that I agree with this fact, I have regularly skied Birds of Prey at Beaver Creek, but this is also a huge resort, and it would take years to see it all.

Now, a point that is driving me absolutely insane. The French ski WRONG. They have adopted the parabolic skis, they would have to as they don’t make the old straight skis anymore, and yet, they ski with legs and skis tightly together and their weight back. This completely defies the physics of the parabolic ski, which requires a wider stance and a lower center of gravity.  Parabolic skis changed the concept of the turn, you use the turn to accelerate with a parabolic ski, you use a turn to slow down with the old type of skis, so I am not sure how they are using the execution of their turns.  Yes, they look stunning, but I would absolutely never take a lesson in this country. Their ski school qualification tests are some of the hardest in the world, so they are highly qualified, but they have decided, I guess, screw technology. Which of course is silly because fighting physics makes it just that much harder to look stunning.

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These two sculptures are by Richard Orlinski and are polystyrene.  They were at the top of Saulire, the art changes annually and is put there by one of the art galleries in town.

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Regarding ski prices at Courchevel, I purchased a three day ski pass, which included insurance for 182 Euros, this covered all three valleys.  To give you that in dollars for all of you living in the United States that is equal to $195.  That is, I repeat for THREE days. We purchased just three days to see how we would feel, the next two days will be just a few Euros more per day.  I am renting high end demo skis for 5 days, and that will be $150 for all 5 days.

Skiing here is worth the airline flight, for no other reason than the vastness of the area, but the crowds are really too large.  While there are so many lifts you don’t have much wait time, the hills are fairly crowded.  The rudeness of the French translates to the hill, so it can be a war zone out there.  That being said, we have a boarder with us, she took a horrible fall, three skiers stopped and directed traffic around her and a doctor stopped and checked her out.  While there is a ski patrol it is nothing like what those in the US have come to expect, you are pretty much on your own, so with the large crowds on the rather narrow hills, unless you are skiing off piste, it can be a rather unnerving experience.  You take out insurance when you buy your ticket and that covers the cost of search and rescue and your first transport of the hill, as I said, their ski patrol is not what we have grown to expect in the U.S..

You can go parachuting or hang gliding off the hills if skiing is starting to bore you.

You can go parachuting or hang gliding off the hills if skiing is starting to bore you.

There is an air show every day the weather is good

There is an air show every day the weather is good

Mar 122015
 

Food at the Hotel Courcheneige is excellent, and we walk away from dinner every night astounded and sated, however, one night we decided to vary from the normal fixed menu and have Raclette. What a fun evening!

Our Raclette Heater

Our Raclette Heater

Raclette is a Swiss dish which is also indigenous to parts of Switzerland. It is also the name of the cheese itself that is used in the meal. The Raclette cheese round is heated, either by simply being set in front of a fire or by a special machine, then scraped onto plates; the term raclette comes from the French word racler, meaning “to scrape,” due to the fact that the melted cheese must be scraped from the unmelted part of the cheese onto the plate.

Placing the Raclette cheese into the machine

Placing the Raclette cheese into the machine

Traditionally Raclette is accompanied by small firm potatoes (Bintje, Charlotte or Raclette varieties), gherkins, pickled onions, and dried meat, such as Prosciutto, Speck, Jambon, Salami, and Chorizo.

Scraping the Cheese

Scraping the Cheese

I had never heard of Raclette cheese, so I needed to do some research. Raclette is a semi-hard cheese made on both sides of the French and Swiss Alps. Valais Raclette or Fromage a Raclette, as they are traditionally called, are made using ancestral methods with unpasteurized cows milk from alpine meadows.  The cheese guru states that the cheese has a thin, brownish-orange coloured rind and a pale yellow pate with a few and scattered open holes. It is has a very distinctive pleasant, aromatic smell with a creamy texture, similar to Gruyere cheeses, which does not separate even when melted. The flavour can vary from nutty, slightly acidic to milky.

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Look at that gooey goodness

Apparently Switzerland supplies 80% of Raclettes, and French Raclettes are slightly softer with a smooth and creamy flavour. Ours had a very orange rind and the flavor was very mild.

Accompanying meats

Accompanying meats

There is nothing new about Raclette, it was mentioned in medieval writings, and in texts from Swiss-German convents dating from as far back as 1291.  It was mentioned as a particularly nutritious meal consumed by peasants in mountains of Switzerland and the Savoy region of France. At that time it was known in the German-speaking part of Switzerland as Bratchäs, or “roasted cheese.”

Traditionally, Swiss cow herders took the cheese with them when moving cows from the pastures to the mountains. In the evenings, around the campfire, they would place the cheese next to the fire and, when soft, scrape it on top of bread

Potatoes

Potatoes

We enjoyed ours on top of potatoes, bread, and by the spoonful.  It was really a great way to spend an evening with friends!

Mar 112015
 

Winter 2015
The Airport

The airport at Courcheval

The airport at Courchevel

Courchevel’s airport stops you in your tracks. It has a very short and steeply sloped runway, which is only 1722 feet long and has a gradient of 18.5%. The airport approach is through deep valleys, which can only be performed by specially certified pilots. On landing there is merely a very steep hill and then you are the end, in other words, no radar support.  The airport once saw larger planes such as Twin Otters and Dash 7’s that carry up to 50 people but over the years these have been phased out and smaller Cessnas and helicopters are all we have seen.  The History Channel’s Most Extreme Airports, ranks it as the 7th most dangerous airport in the world, and it sits right outside my room!

Our Hotel

Hotel Courcheneige

Hotel Courcheneige

We are staying at the ski-in, ski-out Hotel Courcheneige. The hotel sits on the Bellecôte Ski Slope, at an altitude of 6,500 feet. It is an older Chalet style hotel.  There are three of us in a room that has four single beds and the cost with half board (breakfast and dinner) is 3450 Euros  ($3750US on March 2015) for a Saturday to Saturday package.  The food is really spectacular, dinner has always included three courses that were delicious with a dessert groaning board guaranteed to pack on extra pounds.

The rooms and the hotel itself are spartan, so it is not what one thinks of when you hear of the select clientele of VIPs, wealthy people and royal families, including Prince William and Kate Middleton that frequent the area.  They, however, are more likely staying at the 5 and 6 star hotels in the area. Courchevel has 11 hotels with a 5-star ranking. In 2011 France introduced a 6th star ranking for hotels, named “palaces”.  The palace  ranking is only awarded to the most prestigious, exclusive and luxurious hotels in France. There are only eight hotels in France that have this rating and two of those are in Courchevel.

The Town of Courchevel 1850.

The town of Courchevel 1850

The town of Courchevel 1850

Our hotel, the highest in the valley, is above the town of Courcheval 1850.  I took one day off from skiing and spent the day in this very small town.  It is filled with the high end shops of Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Valentino, Prada, Bulgari, and others, but also some smaller stores filled with good food and pastries.

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We did the classic horse drawn carriage tour (40 Euros for 15 minutes – ridiculously expensive).

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Courchevel is known to be an expensive resort. One of the reasons for this are the high prices of residential and commercial property. Courchevel 1850 is the 6th most expensive place in the world with an average square foot price of $3600.

The town of Courchevel 1850

The town of Courchevel 1850

Courchevel 1850

Courchevel 1850

Courchevel 1850

Courchevel 1850

Courchevel 1850

Courchevel 1850

One odd thing I have noticed is that there are a lot of hotels named after items in the Himalayas, such as Hotel Annapurna, the Hotel Le Lana and the Hotel Kashmir.  I really have no idea why or what it means, but I came across this tidbit in some of the Three Valleys Public Relations pieces : The mountain has 62,000 metres of cumulative vertical drop equal to 7 times the slopes of the Himalayas…

Courchevel 1850

a hotel in Courchevel 1850

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The Olympics and World Cup

During the 1992 Albertville Olympics were held in Albertville the Nordic and Ski Jump events took place in Courcheval.  The World Cup will be held here, in Maribel, the week after we leave.

Leaving Courchevel

IF you are taking the train, DON’T.  We had two bags per person, and one person with a wrist in a cast.  We were going to Geneva.  You begin with the train from Moutiers and then transfer in Chambrey.  We had 15 minutes to make the transfer and that meant going DOWN a set of stairs and UP another.  Yes there is a lift, but with all of our luggage we made it with exactly 15 seconds to spare.  Spend the extra money and take a private automobile service to Geneva.