Hoshino Resorts Kinugawa
Nikko, Japan
February 27, 2025
Onsens are hot springs, often with bathing facilities and traditional inns, hotels, or resorts around them. They can be found throughout Japan. I have stayed at many, but I am writing about this one because it is currently my favorite.
There are many types of onsens, often distinguished by the minerals in the water. Different minerals are said to provide different health benefits, although all hot springs are supposed to relax the body and mind. Onsens also come in many varieties: indoors, outdoors, traditional, and modern. They can be enjoyed at ryokans, hotels, and public bathhouses.
In this case I am at a stunning small resort about 25 minutes outside of the town of Nikko, Hoshino Resorts Kinugawa.
I booked a room with a private tub on the balcony, which overlooks a moss garden and trees. Trees that are, alas, barren but must be stunning in spring and fall.
I grew up in the era of fat shaming and Marilyn Monroe as the ideal body. My desire to undress and sit in a tub in front of a group of complete strangers is a solid no for me, thus the splurge for a private bath.
There are all sorts of rules/and rituals before one enters the bath, most of which involve washing before entering. Here, I have the luxury of entering my own shower, washing, and then stepping through a door straight onto the balcony and into the tub.
When you visit an onsen, you are provided with samue. Technically, Japanese samue are comfortable sets of jackets and pants that originated with Zen monks. In a resort such as this, you live in them. This includes walking to the baths and dining if you so choose. It is winter time, so one is also provided with a hanten, or quilted jacket, that keeps you warm when running from place to place.
As I have chosen an onsen that is quite a ways away from anything, I have also opted for two meals a day. Over the years, I have found that the quality of these meals varies from onsen to onsen, which would be expected.
This particular onsen far exceeded my expectations regarding the food, and I would have to rank it at the top of my onsen food experiences.
Onsens are Japanese. Thus, most of the ones I have stayed in the sleeping arrangements were on the floor. This includes a Shiki futon, a thin mattress that is around three to four inches thick, usually made from cotton and set upon the tatami mat floor. This is covered with a kake futon, the traditional duvet in Japan. And finally, the sobawaka, a pillow filled with buckwheat hulls, typically organic, washed, and encased in an inner sleeve.
Due to an increased tourism population of Westerners, I am finding more “traditional” beds, but still no box springs with mattresses. However, I am finding that these are very comfortable and a tad easier to get in and out of for an older, creeky-boned person.
After one has settled in and is ready to join the activities around the “resort,” it can be a tad odd. I have not decided if walking past and among people, all dressed exactly alike, is akin to a prison or a zen retreat. This is, without a doubt, purely a Westerners reaction.
