September 2015
Punakha, Bhutan
The 108 Chortens in the mist, while it appears to be a small dollhouse collection notice the cars in the parking lot below.
The ride from Thimphu to Punakha goes across the Dochu La pass. At the top of the pass is a collection of 108 chortens. The chortens were built by the eldest Queen Mother, Her Majesty Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuk during a conflict on the border with Nepal. Nepalese marauders had come into Bhutan and were living in the forests. One day the king mounted a surprise attack and was able to run the marauders out of the country, but before he did the Queen Mother promised to build these 108 chortens on this spot if the attack was successful. Today they also are a memorial to those that died during the attack.
All the roads in Bhutan are undergoing construction, so the road is dirt, bumpy and results in a very long ride. As you leave the mountain you find yourself in the beautiful valley of Punakha, the ancient capital of Bhutan and a rice growing region.
The purpose of visiting the older portion of Punakha was to enter the temple of Drukpa Kunley better known as the Divine Madman.
The monastery of the Divine Madman
Lam Drukpa Kuenley (1455 to 1570) was an enlightened Buddhist master who personified the true essence of Vajrayana tradition that is also known as “Crazy Wisdom”. This is the profound wisdom that transcends the mundane cultures of religion.
Gate at the entry to the monastery
Called the Divine Madman because of his non-conventional and “outrageous” style of teaching, he deliberately portrayed the image of a vagabond and wandered around the countryside indulging in song and dance, women and drink, hunting and eating.
This chorten is painted in a different color pattern than most. It marks where Drukpa Kunley slayed the mountain demons.
The Divine Madman was a social critic who taunted the hypocrisy of the established orders, including the monastic order. Thus the use of his phallus as a “flaming thuderbolt” weapon, symbolizing the discomfort that society experiences when facing the truth.
We sat under the Bodi tree as our guide regaled us with stories of the Divine Madman. If you are interested, there is only one book about his life titled: “The Divine Madman – The Sublime Life and Songs of Drukpa Kunley” translated by Keith Dowman.
Monks reading at the monastery
The Divine Madman did not believe in building monasteries and certainly not monastic schools, so it is ironic there is a school on the property now. It was his brother that had the monastery built.
This is the Takin. The Divine Madman is credited with creating the national animal of Bhutan by sticking the head of a goat onto the body of a cow.
The mist on Dochu Pass
Offerings just casually set on the side of the road
It is the beginning of rice harvest
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Homages to Drukpa Kunley painted on the homes. These symbols are not just fertility symbols, in the case of Bhutan they also ward off evil spirits.
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A few sites around the valley.
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Kuzuzangpo!