May 112022
 

May 2022

Bern, Switzerland

 

The flag of Bern

Bern is the de facto capital of Switzerland, referred to as the “federal city”.  It has a population 144,000 (as of 2020) and is the fifth-most populous city in Switzerland. And according to legend it got its name from the actual animal the bear.

For that reason you will see bears everywhere.

The top of a fountain in town.

The real live bears of Bern in Bear Park

Bern is also sometimes known as the ‘city of fountains’ — it has more than 100 of them. This child eating ogre dates back to the medieval times.  Sadly no one knows its history.   The most probable of all the tales told is that the Kindlifresser represents a fabled character. Mothers would tell their children to behave and come inside and be quiet or else Kinderfresser, or child eater, would come and eat you.

The Child Eater Fountain

 

 

The Child Eater

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rathaus

The Rathaus is the government building of Bern and is still used today. The current building, in the late gothic style, was begun in 1406-07 by Heinrich von Gengenbach on the site of a townhouse owned by the Burgistein family and was completed around 1415 to 1417. Between 1430 and 1450 the grand external staircase was built and two chambers for the great and small councils were added to the upper story. Between 1526 and 1540 the cantonal council building was added near the hall. Beginning in the 16th century other government entities moved into the building including the cantonal archives, the treasury, the mint and the cantonal printing office. The building and the old town of Bern comprise a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Bern’s first high-level bridge was built between 1840 and 1844 to ease the traffic flow within the city. Designed by Architect Joseph Ferry for many years the bridge boasted the largest stone arch in Europe.

The Zytglogge clock tower and the city’s medieval covered shopping promenades

Along the promenade you will find these underground shops, bars and cafes. They sit inside caves and are accessed from wooden slat doors on the ground level.

The River Aare running through Bern

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One of the wonderful statues found in Bern

 

Three Great Restaurants.

Tapas: Ô Capitaine,  at Herzogstrasse 12

Fabulous high end food for little $:  Darling in the hotel Alpenblick

Great Italian Grotto Ticino – Breitenrainplatz 26

May 112022
 

May 2022

The Bernina Express or Red Train has been on my list for a while, thanks to my friend Bruce M.  It is touted as the most beautiful train ride in the world.  I have taken many a train ride, and I would not go so far as to say this is the most beautiful, but it is absolutely worth any effort one would have to take to hitch a ride.

The train has a few different routes, and this is the route from St. Moritz to Tirano.

St. Moritz is world famous thanks to two Olympics, the first in 1928 and the second in 1948.  During April, however, there is no one around and nothing open with the exception of a very few hotels and even fewer restaurants.

Located inside the old school building dominating the Plazza da Scoula is the St. Moritz Library which possesses over 7000 books written in a number of languages including German, Italian, French and English.

The leaning tower is a landmark dating back to the 12th century. It was part of the old Church of St. Mauritius, which was destroyed in 1893.

I do not believe this photo needs any explanation, although it was suggested by our waiter who is a native of St. Moritz

The train is part of the UNESCO World Heritage sites.  It runs approximately 240 miles and is a narrow-gauge rail.  It is the only Swiss railway to cross the Alps and links Italy with Switzerland.

Construction began in 1908 and the railway opened in sections until its completion in 1910. There were two specific needs that drove the building of the rail line. The need for access to hydro-electric plants on the south side of the Bernina pass, and to provide access for tourists to the high mountain area.

There are several glaciers along the route

The weather was better than our attempt at visiting Zermatt, but not that great.  You can watch the changing weather in the photos by watching the sky.

The higher lakes were still frozen over. This is Lago Blanco

Lake Poschiavo was low enough to have thawed

Entering into the Brusio spiral viaduct

A key structure of the Bernina railway is the Brusio spiral viaduct.  It was built to limit the railway’s gradient within its specified maximum of 7%. It is one of the architectural highlights of the Railway.

Crossing the viaduct

Passing under the viaduct and continuing on

An overall look at the Brusio loop and aqueduct

Fun shots from along the ride

The stone mounds are for storing food such as cheese

The trees were just beginning to leaf out

Looking down upon the towns as the train went through the mountains made for the perfect postcard

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Not all the stations were this quaint

Coming out of one of the many tunnels

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A bunker left over from WWII

It is believed that there are over 8000 bunkers spread out across Switzerland. They are a holdover from WWII and the nuclear scare of the Cold War.  Today they are used for a variety of purposes such as hotels, cheese cellars, data centers, museums and even a mushroom factory.

Anti-tank rock placement

Despite never having entered the war, Switzerland is prepared for one. Bunkers began to show up in the 1940s to buttress the Alps against  foreign invasion of a country surrounded by the Axis powers. There are also  360,000 bomb shelters (mainly to protect the Swiss people),  which have been a required feature of any new building since the Cold War.

A hotel on the Lake in St. Moritz

Tools ready for work along the tracks

May 112022
 

May 2022

Lucerne

Spreuer Bridge with the Jesuit Church to the right

One of the most iconic sites of Lucerne is the Spreuer Bridge (Or Chapel Bridge).  The original was erected around 1400 but destroyed by a storm and rebuilt in 1568.

Dance of the Death

Under the roof of Spreuer Bridge, 67 paintings dating from 1626 to 1635 represent a “Dance of Death”. Death urges everybody to dance with him, i.e. to die. These types of paintings were often placed on cemetery walls to express people’s feeling in the face of death especially during times of epidemic or plague, and were widespread all over late medieval Europe, but only very few examples have survived to date

Dance of Death

The thing is most, had battle scenes and the like so I was not quite sure I followed the whole concept as each painting is very different and I don’t speak the language.

The bridge burned in 1993 of the 111 triangular paintings 86 of them were burned either partially or beyond recognition.

Since the documents that remained of the bridge were not detailed enough to reconstruct the bridge, researchers spent around two months photographing, listing, drawing and describing every element of the bridge. Each beam was inventoried. Construction began in November 1993 and completed in 1994. Elements that were damaged and could not be repaired were removed, and all that could be, were restored and reinstalled.

The Jesuit church was established around 1666 and was the first large baroque building of an ecclesiastical nature to be erected in Switzerland.

Only the Swiss would have people vacuuming the bridge to insure its perfect cleanliness

 

Lion Monument

The Lion Monument or Lion of Lucerne, is a rock relief designed by Bertel Thorvaldsen and carved in 1820–21 by Lukas Ahorn. It commemorates the Swiss Guards who were massacred in 1792 during the French Revolution, when revolutionaries stormed the Tuileries Palace in Paris.

Over the top of the lion reads Helvetiorum Fidei ac Virtuti (“To the loyalty and bravery of the Swiss”). The dying lion is portrayed impaled by a spear, covering a shield bearing the fleur-de-lis of the French monarchy; beside him is another shield bearing the coat of arms of Switzerland. The inscription below the sculpture lists the names of the officers and gives the approximate numbers of soldiers who died (760), and who survived (350).

Chapel for the Fallen Swiss Guards

Designed by Lucerne architect Louis Pfyffer von Wyher, the circular chapel that stands just outside the Lion Monument is framed by two pilasters.   Inside there are only a few seats and a classic altar flanked by flags bearing the colors of the Swiss Guard regiment of France and the coats of arms of patrician families who lost sons in the tragedy.  The chapel is open of special occasions.

Church of Saint Leodegar

Considered the most important example of a church building from the Renaissance period in Switzerland, this is the Church of St. Leodegar.  The church’s origins go back to 770s, it had been added onto through the years, and then it was destroyed by fire in 1633, leaving only the two towers with their Romanesque elements.

The cemetery of St. Leodegar

The Post Office of Lucerne

Built in 1888 the four statues standing above Corinthian columns represent post, telegraph, shipping and railways.

The Fritsche Fountain

The Fritschi Fountain was built in 1918 on Kapellplatz is similar to older fountains found in Bern. A standard bearer graces the top and then the four masks around the base represent Fritschi, his wife, a nursemaid and a servant. There are 4 fools spewing water from goat horns near the base.

Legendary brother Fritschi plays an important role in Lucerne’s Carnival tradition. Brother Fritschi’s grave is supposed to be under this fountain, on the medieval graveyard attached to St. Peter’s Chapel. No one knows who Brother Fritschi really was. The legend goes back to around 1450 and the most probable explanation is that there was a farmer (or farmhand) living outside town making jokes whenever he came to town. Medieval town clerk and chronist Cysat reports that Fritschi left some money to the Safran guild on condition that they serve wine to the poor during Fasacht. The guild still honors this obligation and has dedicated one story of their guild rooms in Nölliturm to Brother Fritschi (the location is not open to the public).

There are spectacular painted buildings dotting the old part of the city, here are just a few:

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Facade of house, where Wolfgang Von Goethe stayed during his visit to Lucerne and double-headed eagle, symbol of the Imperial Crown

Random Shots of Lucerne

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Walking a path in the Glacier Garden

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Lake Lucerne

Rathaus or Town Hall

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Zermatt

Zermatt is a municipality in the district of Visp and has a year-round population of about 5,800.  It lies at the upper end of Mattertal at an elevation of 5,310 ft, at the foot of Switzerland’s highest peaks.

The purpose of this visit was to ride the train up the mountain to view the Matterhorn and other high peaks of the Alps.  The weather had other ideas.

The train from Visp to Zermatt

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This is all I could see of the famed peaks of the Alps

Throughout Zermatt were these fascinating wood buildings with slate roofs up on stilts. They are made of larch, the tree that dominates Zermatt’s surroundings. The wood is rich in resin, making the timber particularly resistant to pests. The houses are roofed with heavy slabs of rock, which compress the timbers that support it and make the construction more stable. Sunshine and weather darken the wood, and over the course of many years it turns black. As a result, the building becomes much more effective at absorbing and storing heat. The buildings are used for storage.  It they hold hay they usually have one door, if they have four doors it is usually food such as dry meat.

The Matterhorn hovers over this area and is an important part of its economy.  There are many plaques in the ground honoring the first people that came to tame the Matterhorn.  Lucy Walker was the first woman to do so.

Walker was born in 1836, in British North America, in what would later become Canada.  She was very accomplished if not well known. She completed a total of 98 expeditions and died at her home in Liverpool in 1916.