Sep 282024
 

September 27, 2024

Bergen, also known historically as Bjørgvin, is believed to have been established by Olaf III of Norway. Bergen is where trade took off in the country, and it was the largest settlement in Scandinavia until the 16th century.

 

It was a gorgeous day in Bergen.  Considering that it rains 239 days a year, how lucky was I to get a clear, crisp, beautiful day to take the Fløibanen funicular to the top of Mount Fløyen?

Atop Mount Fløyen, looking out at the fjords with the Northern Sea too far to see

Looking down on Bergen
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Tubakuba

There is a lot to do when atop the mountain, mainly hiking or sitting on the terrace of the restaurants and just gazing out at the beauty.  I did do a little exploring.

Tubakuba was crafted by a design-build workshop at the School of Architecture, led by Espen Folgerø from OPA Form Architects. Tubakuba (Tuba Cube) uses different types of Norwegian wood and prides itself on being the only off-grid hotel room in Bergen.

Tubakuba

The front door

Tubacuba is available to rent for a stay. There are other little places to rent at the top of the tram as well, such as this beehive structure.

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Oh, and there are ten cashmere goats as well wandering around. They are “Pippi”, “Fløydis”, “Waldemar”, “Spot”, “Trym”, “Gucci”, “Stjerna”, “Frøya”, “Ferdinand” and “Alex”.

The ten cashmere goats were born in 2020 on Radøy. There are six girls and four boys. Because they are bred to clear vegetation, they were all castrated as babies.

The funicular at night

 

Sep 282024
 

September 27, 2024

The very first buildings in Bergen were at Bryggen, a vibrant and important area of the city for many centuries. It is also a highly visited and photographed area.

Thanks to wooden houses, Bergen, including the neighborhood of Bryggen, burned down several times throughout history. There are 61 buildings in Bryggen, and 25% of them are from 1702, the last time Bryggen was burnt down in its entirety.

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Bergen is one of North Europe’s oldest port cities on the west coast of Norway. It was established as a center for trade in the 12th century. In 1350, the Hanseatic League established a “Hanseatic Office” in Bergen. They gradually acquired ownership of Bryggen and controlled the trade in stockfish from Northern Norway through privileges granted by the Crown. The Hanseatic League established four overseas Hanseatic Offices, Bryggen being the only one preserved today.

The word Hanse means ‘convoy’. This word refers to the groups of merchants traveling between the Hanseatic towns by land or sea.

The Hanseatic League’s common goal was to dominate trade, protect economic interests, gain diplomatic privileges, and establish trading routes.

The original compact medieval urban structure of Bryggen is preserved with its long, narrow rows of buildings facing the harbor, separated by narrow wooden passages. At the time, Bryggen was basically a colony of bachelor German merchants.

The residential areas lie on either one or both sides of the narrow passages, which function as private courtyards.

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The houses are built using a combination of traditional timber log construction and galleries with column and beam construction and horizontal wooden panel cladding.

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Rows of two- to three-story buildings were signified by the medieval name “gård”.

Towards the back of the gård are small fireproof warehouses or storerooms (kjellere) built of stone to protect special goods and valuables against fire.

The sign over the door reads: “In 1666, the elder Dirich Wolpman had his principal Arendt Meiier build this cellar for the best.”

St Mary’s Church

St. Mary’s Church is the only remaining of the twelve churches and three monasteries built in Bergen between the reign of Olav Kyrre (1066–1093, traditionally 1070) and the end of the twelfth century. The church’s construction is believed to have started in the 1130s or 1140s and was completed around 1180, making this church the oldest remaining building in Bergen. There have been a few fires that burned the church, as well as several renovations and reconstructions, most recently in 2013.

Rosenkrantz Tower

Rosenkrantz Tower is regarded as the most important Renaissance monument in Norway. In the 13th century, it was the residence of one of Norway’s most significant kings, Magnus the Lawmender. Parts of the tower are from the 1270s and were built by Mangus the Lawmender Håkonsson, but it has been extended several times for fortification and offices for the governors of Bergen. In the 16th century, it became the governor´s castle.

 

There is an earnest historic preservation movement within Bryggen.

Here, the restoration is going on behind glass so people like me can ogle. These two buildings were rebuilt as three-story warehouses with lofts after the great city fire of 1702.  Both buildings were originally built as “stuer*” with an office and living quarters for the merchant and his workers. The buildings are built on log rafts on the ground, called bulwarks, which are foundations consisting of several layers of cross-laid beams placed on deep layers of soil.

Rot heavily damaged the foundations, which is the main reason the buildings at Bryggen need to be restored.

The restoration began in March 2021. To enable excavation, the buildings were jacked up using a lifting rig.

*The literal translation of Stuer is the living room; what its context was in 1702, I do not know.

 

In 1979, Bryggen was listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List with this explanation: Bryggen bears the traces of social organization and illustrates the use of space in a quarter of Hanseatic merchants that dates back to the 14th century. It is a type of northern “fondaco”, unequaled in the world, where the structures have remained within the cityscape and perpetuate the memory of one of the oldest large trading ports of Northern Europe.

“The Bryggen Project” was established in 2000. This is an extensive and long-term project for monitoring, safeguarding and restoring Bryggen, including both archaeological deposits and standing buildings.

Sep 282024
 

September 2024

You have to love a town that takes this much care with its bandstand in the public park. The music pavilion is cast iron and was given to Bergen by F.G. Gade in 1899.

St. Jørgen´s Hospital

St Jorgen’s Hospital

St. Jørgen´s Hospital has existed in Bergen since the 15th century, but nothing remains from the medieval hospital due to several city fires. Between 1850 and 1900, Bergen had three hospitals for leprosy patients and the largest concentration of patients in Europe. St. Jørgens Hospital had patients until 1946.

In 1873, Bergen doctor Gerhard Armauer Hansen identified the leprosy bacillus. Because of his discovery, Hansen is one of the most famous Norwegians in the world, and in many parts of the world, leprosy is still commonly known as Hansen’s disease.

Witches Stone

The Witches Stone

At the top are the words hekse steinen or witches stone. The stone was erected as a monument to the victims of witch trials in Norway.  The inscription at the bottom of the stone translates to 350 bonfire victims to miscarriage of justice 1550–1700. These numbers are representative of the number of witches burned across Norway. As many as 1,000 others were imprisoned, fined, or exiled.

What is a visit to Norway without seeing a troll?

You still see phone booths in Bergen.

The phone box design was the result of a design competition by Oslo Telefonanlegg in 1932. The winning design was by the architect Georg Fredrik Fasting from Bergen.

The jury wrote the following about the winner: “No. 80 “Riks.” The draft shows a completely striking, simple solution to the task, which in both a technical and aesthetic way is well worked out. It solves all the problems of the programme in a satisfactory manner. The author has hit the mark both in the layout and the build. The draft has such a shape that the booth can be placed almost anywhere. The user guide can be put over the telephone and the suggested method of hanging can also be approved. The door must open outwards.”

Early morning street sweeping in the rain on Østre Murallmenningen, a quirky twisting zigzag street in the Strandsiden neighborhood.

The photo gives no clue as to how steep that little narrow street in the Nordnes neighborhood actually is.

Another steep little street in the Nordnes Neighborhood.

Fredriksberg Fortress in Nordnes. The grounds were used as a place of execution until the Swedish counterfeiter Jacob Wallin was executed in 1876.

A divine dinner was had at Pinocchio’s—a wine bar with a two-star Michelin chef from Chicago and his Norwegian wife.

The restaurant is in a 1600s jail and is just a divine atmosphere of stone and ancient wood.

*Staying at the Bergen Bors Hotel. It is a late classical building initially designed by Franz Wilhelm Shiertz in 1862 and redesigned by Lars Solberg between 1890 and 1893.  It was renovated into a hotel in 1970.

Inside the main room are frescoes by Axel Revold done in 1923.