May 032022
 

May 2022

During the 17th century and Amsterdam’s economic boom, the city created a concentric canal belt. Four ditches were dug around the Dam, connecting up the river Ij and Amstel. All to encourage water traffic and the rapid transport of goods throughout the city.

The buildings were always a combination of residence and business, and do to the high tax on the width of the building they grew upward rather than out.

Wouter Van Elburg, architectural historian:  “Taking their form in the 17th century, they reflect the Dutch mercantile spirit of the time that said, ‘if we can sell it, we’ll use it’.”

Since the wealth was concentrated in the merchant class rather than royalty, builders aimed to display the wealth of their clients, but also had  to create buildings that functioned as viable quasi-commercial units.

The Calvinist mores of the time tended to mean displays of wealth were concealed inside the building.


One thing most everyone knows is that Amsterdam has a Red Light District.  The area is as old as Amsterdam itself, being created on the Banks of the Amstel River in the 13th century.  The area is actually called De Wallen for the walls built along the river. began along the banks of the river Amstel around the 13th century. It is located in an area known as De Wallen, so-called due to the walls built along the river.

Prostitution was not always legal here, During the Dutch Revolt the Protestants, who won what was called the Eighty Years War outlawed prostitution.  Of course the world’s oldest form of employment never disappears, during that time it simply went underground.

2017 brought about change.  Project 1012   named due to the postal code of the area was meant to help clean up the neighborhood, bring in new businesses, restaurants and boutiques.  During that time the brothels still existed but were dying out.

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Belle was installed  in 2007 as a tribute to sex workers around the world

Prostitutes began organizing and creating projects such as My Red Light, aimed at empowering prostitutes to run their own window brothels while keeping organized crime out.

Statues have been popping up around Amsterdam and no one is quite sure who the artist is, this is attributed to that anonymous artist.

Today the Red Light District is known worldwide as one of the safest places to conduct legal prostitution, with regular police patrols, mandatory registration and health check-ups.

Another thing Amsterdam is well known for are its coffeeshops.

 

In 1970 the government made a distinction between hard and soft drugs. In 1972, the Mellow Yellow opened calling itself a tea house.  It was the only place where you could buy and smoke weed in a tolerated way, as marijuana was still illegal in the country.  Today the places are called coffeeshops, to be distinguished from cafes.   Opened in 1974, the Bulldog became the first official coffeeshop, named for the owners English Bulldog.

One of the more outstanding buildings when wandering Amsterdam is the Theater Tuschinski. Commissioned by Abraham Icek Tuschinski in 1921 at a cost of 4 million guilders (7 million dollars).

The interiors were designed by Hijman Louis de Jong of the Amsterdam School in the Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles.

The theater has a fascinating history.  In 1940 the theater was taken over by the German film company Tobis Film. On Queen Wilhelmina’s birthday a Dutch and British flag were flown from a window of the theatre that year. Tuschinski was deported to Auschwitz and murdered by the Nazis in 1942.

The theater was declared a national monument in 1967 due to its distinctive architecture.  The theater was purchased by the French-based in 1998 and did a full restoration.

Random Shots Around Town

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Light Fixture in the Beurspassage, part of an urban renewal project near the Central Train Station

A fun place to attempt to dine is the Upstairs Pancake House.  It is owned by 2 men and has only 4 tables.  You need a reservation but if you are 5 minutes late they give it away (which is how we managed to be able to dine there, right time right place)

Grimburgwal 2 in Amsterdam.  You can only make reservations by phone  020 626 56 03

May 032022
 

May 2022

De Waag

The De Waag was built in 1488 and served as one of Amsterdam’s main city gates.  It closed at exactly 9:30 at night to keep out bandits, the poor and the diseased.

By the 17th century the city had expanded making the gates superfluous.  At that time the building became a weighing house.  Later this area was used as the spot for public executions.  The cadavers were then taken to a similar old city gate building that housed the Surgeons Guild and one could watch public dissections.

These dissections were the setting for Rembrandt’s The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulip.

The disgust does not end there, during WWII the entire area was wrapped in barbed wire and held Jews waiting transport to the camps.

Mozes en Aaronstraat Dam Square

This stone caps a bolt that marks sea level. Called Amsterdam’s Ordinance Datum it is the prime meridian elevation.  Measurements from here were first taken in 1683.

Westerkerk

The Westerkerk is a Reformed church within Dutch Protestant Calvinism. Built in the Renaissance style, construction began in 1620 with designs by architect Hendrick de Keyser who is buried in the church. The church was finished in 1631 by his son Pieter de Keyser.

Wandering with no purpose I tripped across this little area.  Called the Begijnhof  it is an enclosed courtyard dating from the early 14th century although nothing survived from that time.

It was originally built as a sanctuary for the Begijntjes, a Catholic sisterhood who lived like nuns, but took no monastic vows. The area still houses only women. Begijnhof includes the Amsterdam’s oldest surviving house Het Houten Huis that dates from around 1420.

The Beginjnhof Chapel

The Begijnhof Chapel, a clandestine church, was completed in 1680.


This is all of the building that I could squeeze into a photograph.  It sits on a very narrow canal and is very very large.  It once served as the headquarters of the Dutch East India Company the first business in Amsterdam.  Created in 1602 in Middleburg with Middleburg and Amsterdam being its two largest locations.  The Dutch East India Company was the first company in the world to issue “shares”, thus making the Amsterdam Chamber of The Dutch East India Company the home of Shareholding, and trading. The Bourse of Amsterdam was the first stock exchange in the world.  The Dutch East India Company was the most powerful company in the world during the 17th century, due to its trade with the orient, and particularly opium.

City Hall Urinal

The City Hall Urinal has national monument status, it was once outside City Hall and built in 1926.

 

This is a bascule bridge. It is a moveable bridge with a counterweight that continuously balances a span, or leaf, throughout its upward swing to provide clearance for boat traffic. It may be single- or double-leafed.

 

It is said that Amsterdam has over 1200 bridges. I bring you but three.

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Blauwbrug Bridge Ornamentation

Called the Blauwburg or “blue bridge” this one was originally a wood bridge painted the blue of the Dutch flag, and stood in  the 1600s. This bridge replaced it in 1883, with this stone bridge inspired by the architecture of the bridges of Paris.

You can see the Imperial Crown of Austria on the top of the lanterns.

The Zorgvlied Cemetery

The Zorgvlied Cemetery

This taphophile could not leave Amsterdam without visiting at least one cemetery.  I chose the Zorgvlied because it was easiest to get to. Situated on the left bank of the river Amstel, the cemetery was opened in 1870 by the city of Amstelveen which still owns and operates it, though since 1896 (when city lines were redrawn) it is located within the boundaries of the city of Amsterdam. This is one of Netherlands most famous cemeteries due to the large number of celebrities, especially from the literary and theater worlds, buried there, none of which I knew, sadly.

Designed, by Jan David Zocher, is in the English garden style. Zorgvlied was expanded in 1892 by Zocher’s son, Louis Paul Zocher, and again in 1900, 1919, and 1926, when it became a burial place for the upper classes who had often been buried in Westerveld in Driehuis.

This was one of the more unique graves, it is the grave of Annie M.G. Schmidt.  She was called the mother of the Dutch theatrical song and the queen of Dutch children’s literature.

Random Shots of Amsterdam

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One of Amsterdam’s Smallest Houses

Wandering the Flower Market

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