This is the highest ranking Buddhist in the town of Kushinigar, he is Burmese and he was celebrating his 82nd birthday.
Nelson Chama, member of the Board of Directors of LBDFI and a resident of Rio de Janiero
After cutting his cake he fed the honored people surrounding him, it was really sweet, and yes, I was also honored with a bite of cake by his hand.
Stanzin found these young nuns as adorable as I did and brought them extra cake with lots and lots of frosting
The closing ceremony for the Tipitaka Chanting ceremony included a walk by all the participants to the Rhamabhar Stupa which marks where Buddha was cremated.
It is always quite a site to see two columns of monks walking for several miles along the busy streets of any town.
After circumambulating the stupa twice they stood on the lawn and chanted for quite a while. It was a lovely, lovely moment.
We have two young monks traveling with us from Thailand that have been carrying statues of Buddha with them everywhere. Taking these statues to the holy sites imbues them with goodness and holiness. I caught this intimate and sweet moment where they were placing the Buddha’s on the stupa and praying. They both will take these statues to their parents the next time they see them.
People place lotus flowers, candles and gold at most holy Buddhist sites.
The march to the stupa was followed by a quick ceremony at the Royal Thai Temple.
The grounds and the classic Thai architecture of this monastery are breathtaking. I understand the Queen has had much to do with the building of the temple, but their website is in Thai so I was not able to get much information. They also, apparently, have stunning accommodations, but you must be a Thai citizen to utilize them.
Dr. Jaran a high ranking Thai monk and U Javana, a high ranking Burmese monk asked that I take their picture in this stunning building.
Today was spent chanting all day. This is my view of the event. Those that know me, know I could not possibly sit on the floor, so yes, they take old people into consideration, even in the temples. I usually find a chair, this event I have an entire bench in which to sit and contemplate and listen.
Sitting at the back of the tent
Since today was the same as yesterday, minus the politicians I thought I would ruminate over things I have encountered and don’t understand.
Monks with tattoos. Okay, I have no idea why I would think this was not acceptable, it just seems weird, chock it up with monks with iPads and on Vespas, they fall outside ones preconceived notions.
Yes some become monks later in life, and so they came into the monastery with them, but there are two monks in our group that discuss their tattoos and what they will add next. I have come to learn that much of what they have inked is a form of blessing. Why not?
The Paparazzi
A few posts ago I complained about being jostled and pushed by the male photographers. I realize now this is not the photographers but males in India in general. I was in a very crowded room with a German woman (Stefanie) and we were discussing how the women in the room glide around the room swimming gently past the other women and respecting their space. The men, on the other hand simply run you over. I don’t think it is arrogance or haughtiness, I honestly don’t think Indian men even see women. We are so far beneath them, that we are as invisible as the cockroach on a filthy floor. On the other hand, knowing how strong Indian women are in the home, it could be simple retribution.
Monks robes are very different from country to country. All of our monks tie theirs the same way, and I seriously wish I could learn how they throw the outer “cape” on, it is two swift moves and makes my putting a pashmina on my shoulders look like I am gift wrapping a wounded water buffalo. They take great pride in their folding skills, and if not done absolutely perfectly they will tease each other. You will often see a monk off in the corner pleating a long piece of fabric to make sure it looks just right.
Another thing I have witnessed over and over again in this country is the ability for everyone to drink from a container without it ever touching their lips. They have a better idea than most how filthy things are around here.
Several years ago my mother brought me to India for my first trip. We were amazed at how many people came up to her and asked if they could either photograph her or be photographed with her. We did not really understand it, but later people discussed the reverence that the Indians have for the elderly.
Well now I am the spotlight, and damn it, I refuse to accept the age explanation. When I ask people that have lived here for a long time they simply state it is my blond hair and white skin. I’ll go along with that one. I can not begin to tell you how many family albums I will be in. Today a group stopped me to ask for pictures, I was 15 minutes. I said just one more at least 10 times. At some point, I put my camera down near my hips and the photographer said, no, no and motioned for me to raise it again so it would be in the picture. I snapped this picture at that moment and got a laugh out of the entire group.
Later I had a woman come up and attempt to have a photo taken while touching my toes. I jumped sky high. She settled for touching my knee while her husband snapped a shot. This, I learned, is because they view westerners as wealthy, and touching our feet will rub that wealth off on them. I gather the second best thing is to simply be touching a westerner. It is also a sign of respect. This has not happened before, the people that ask for photos are always either selfies or photos taken by relatives while they are in the frame.
I took to wandering, and next to the event is a Burmese temple complex. I was circumambulating the stupa when two of our Burmese monks recognized me and joined me. They were happy to educate me on the meanings of some of the things we saw.
The stupa in front of the Burmese Temple complex
Your birthday day is auspicious to them and each weekday represents a planet. This is why there are different animals at the base of the different days.
Pinyabasa was born on Thursday. The day of the mouse, a very intelligent creature. Apparently, it is also the day of monks.
Ashin Kavisara was born on Monday. The day of the tiger and all that implies.
These monks are all lined up for families to adopt with offerings to the temple. They get a brass plaque once they have. All I could see was a Dr. Who episode.
You have to love a temple that puts up a plaque to archeologists!
The chairs the esteemed monks sat in during the ceremony
I love butter lamps, but the truth is, the fuel used is more like a really slow burning kerosene.
These overturned clay pots in the tree were at the Thai temple, I don’t have a real explanation, but the concept of a human being an empty vessel seems like a lovely explanation
The building on the left is the stupa with some remains of Buddha. The building on the right houses the reclining gold Buddha. This site was really very large in its heyday.
This is Tron Nguyen, his monk’s name is Thich Dieu Thien, a local monk that I just found beyond charming. Tron chanted today, but in Vietnamese instead of Pali. Here is a sample of his chanting, it is really different and lovely.
Tron was born in Vietnam. His mother married an American soldier and he came to the US in 1972, at the age of four. He grew up in East Lansing Michigan and went to MSU.
There has been a monk in his family every generation for 50 years. His mother has established three Buddhist missionaries/monasteris, one in Buddha’s hometown of Lumbini in Nepal, one in Bodh Gaya and this one in Kushinagar.
After Tron’s 2 daughters graduated from college he took his monks vows and began working in India.
Our monks are staying in his monastery, and they are very happy. It is clean and Tron is an excellent host.
When we first arrived I felt it was sort of a Disneyland but he explained that many local people do not have the money to travel to the holy sites so he has recreated them. Normally this Disneyland aspect would annoy me, but Tron is one of the kindest people I have met, and his heart is so full and definitely in the right place.
To top it all off, he runs a school for 600 children. This is what I expect true Buddhism to be about.
Kushinigar is a pilgrimage site because this is where Buddha took his last breath.
Our first day in Kushinigar was amazing. It began with a parade. Granted it was a parade of Buddhists, but the town is only a few blocks long with just one street so the whole town participated in its own way.
The town’s head monk is Burmese
The parade began on the grounds of the Thai temple. Notice the adorable little boy clinging to his mother.
No amount of coaxing could get him to go with his grandmother and not interrupt the parade.
Just one of the many stunning buildings at the Thai Temple Compound
The first four hours of the program was various government officials expounding upon something. I have no idea, I do not speak Hindi. Some of them were Hindus and that seems awkward to me, but this is still a country that feels that 15 political speeches before an event are something everyone is excited to do, and then they pose for those kinds of photos with everyone smiling and pretending they are so very thrilled to pose for the photo. I wonder if they get this from the British or if it is part of a young country.
The venerable monks that presided over the first day of chanting.
The afternoon was spent listening to chanting from each of the countries. There is such a huge difference between the countries, some are very hard to listen to. The “moderator” wanted to make sure each country got a chance, so instead of waiting for the usual end where the monks say Sadu Sadu Sadu, he just pulled the plug on their microphone. It was always so funny to watch the monks all look at each other like “what happened”.
Sadu is said three times at the end of many things in Buddhism. It is really a way of saying “nicely done” and the audience says it at the same time as the monks. You can sort of equate it to Amen in the Christian religions.
Lamphone Leut Oudomsone and Jiengkham Ravavong from our group representing Laos.
Sanyot Rattanapanyakon and Jaran Suthi the two strongest Thai chanters joined the Laotians about half way through
We have two Laotians with us. They were the only two, and it was nice for them to finally be acknowledged as Laotian, they have been grouped with the Thais the entire time. What was so very sweet to me was to watch two of the stronger Thai chanters join the Laotians so their voices were stronger. They all really do support each other.
Carrying the cloth to the Buddha
After the chanting was over the monks did a candlelight ceremony circumambulating the stupa and placing a cloth over the Buddha.
Laying the cloth on the Buddha
This Buddha was donated to the location in the 400s, and it amazes me that it still exists, that tomb raiders didn’t steal it or that the Muslim’s didn’t destroy it, possibly simply because this is such a remote location.
On the second day, the nun’s laid a cloth on Buddha during the candlelight ceremony
Everyday pilgrims come and lay coverings over the Buddha. I had the opportunity to watch just one shift, of what I think was at least three, where the monks remove the cloths and get back down to the gold sheet.
Monks removing the many blankets that had accumulated in just a few hours
This gold robe covers the Buddha and is all one sees of the body of the Buddha
I was utterly amazed at how many were taken off, I have asked what happens to them, and most everyone figured the cloth was donated, but for what or to whom none of us really know.
This was a very visual day so I will leave you with photos to help you see what I saw.
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The gentlemen hit the gong fairly consistently, at one point I was standing next to it, and it was very, very loud
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Our police escort
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Entering onto the grounds. You can see the Kushinagar stupa in the background
Some of the sights along the parade route. As I said the whole town participated just be being there.
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Lighting candles
The ceremonial tent
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The feet of Buddha. If you look closely you will see the Dharma-wheel on the soles of his feet
This is the highest ranking Buddhist in the town of Kushinigar, he is Burmese and he was celebrating his 82nd birthday.
