ALL I NEED IS MY PASSPORT

Bhutan
September 2015

This is the story of the Four Harmonious Friends. It is found everywhere in Bhutan. The image is of a bird, rabbit and monkey standing on each others shoulders and then they all stand on the back of an elephant. It is the epitome of social harmony.

It is said that the bird finds a seed and plants it, the rabbit waters it, the monkey fertilizes it, and once it has sprouted and grown the elephant protects it.

By working together they all are able to reach and enjoy the fruit.

When you enter a Dzong there will always be paintings along the walls before entering.  The walls of monasteries and temples are covered in paintings.  Murals are abundant in the Bhutanese culture and the Four Friends is found everywhere.

Bhutan
September 2015

In Thimphu there is the Thimphu Institute for Zorig Chusum. This school, established in the 1970s is for preserving the traditional crafts of Bhutan. The course of study is between 5 and 6 years and teaches the 13 original crafts.

Students are tested and then placed in the craft school most appropriate to their talents, they are all on scholarships.

The 13 crafts are:

Carpentry (Shingzo), these craftsmaen are involved in the buildings of dzongs, temples, palaces and houses.

Masonry (Dozo) This craft is associated with the building of chortens, dzongs, temples but also heavy millstones and stone pestels.

*Carving (Parzo) is not only on wood, but also slate and stone. This work is most evident to the tourist in all the beautiful carved wood work on homes, hotels and buildings throughout Bhutan.

Painting (Lhazo) is both drawing and painting in Bhutan. The work of thee craftspeople can be found in the temple and dzong murals as well as all the symbols that grace the homes of the people of Bhutan.

Sculpture (Jinzo). This is the art that is hardest to find throughout Bhutan, as it is mainly in the temples, and most often, behind the alter of the temple.  The place where a tourist has the opportunity to see the work of these craftspeople is in the masks worn during tsechu.

This is a ritual dagger called a Phurba (it is not sharp and is not meant to hurt a sentient being). It is used against evil spirits.

Casting (Lugzo) ususally refers to bronze and is found in the making of musical instruments and kitchen utensils, but also jewelry.

Blacksmithing (Garzo) is what it implies, but is also used in axes, plough blades, chain making and swords.

Gold and Silversmithing (Trozo) also includes copper and can be beaten, drawn or engraved work.

Bamboo Work (Tshazo) This work is still found, more in the countryside, than in the cities. The most common type of this work is for the arrow quiver, but it also includes bangchung, covered bowls for carrying food palang for storing liquor, and belo which are small hats.

Weaving (Thagzo) covers the entire process including preparing and dying the yarns, this is the largest crafts industry in Bhutan.

Embroidery (Tshemzo). This has two specialties One is the items which are sewn and then embroidered, the second refers to the applique works.

Woodturning (Shagzo) This is where Bhutans beautiful wooden bowls come from. This craft also includes the making of the small drums used during religious ceremonies.

The bark from the Daphne Plant

Papermaking (Dezo) is the skill that is rapidly being lost In Bhutan. The paper is made from the bark of the daphne, but has grown to include bamboo and rice stalks. We visited a paper making factory in Thimpu, and here are shots from that factory.  It is a family run business, now in its second generation.

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September 2015
Punakha, Bhutan

Chilis and red rice are the main staples of Bhutanese cooking.  A typical Bhutanese meal may consist of nothing more than red rice and Bhutan’s national dish ema datse.  Ema datse consists of large green, sometimes red, but always hot, chilies prepared in a cheese sauce. The cheese is somewhere between a farmers cheese and a gruyere.  If one wants to enjoy the cheese without the heat, there is kewa datse, potates with cheese or shamu datse which is mushrooms with cheese.

Ema datse

This is the season for nakey or what we in the west call fiddle heads. They are abundant and delicious.

Bhutan is a Buddhist country, so killing animals is highly frowned upon, however, they do eat meat, which is usually killed by non-Buddhists and often comes from India or Thailand, but as witnessed by these bones in the market, not always.

Then there is momo, these are small steamed dumplings filled with cheese and cabbage or meat. The proper way to eat them is dripping in chili sauce. These little dumplings are delicious, and always a welcome treat at the table.  Momo’s are not a traditional Bhutanese dish, this particular addition to Bhutanese  cuisine has been imported from Tibet.

Rock hard yak cheese or chugo is available, one treats it like gum and chews and chews and chews until the flavor comes out.

There are not grocery stores in Bhutan, all of your produce comes from the local market and a visit is a must to understanding the food culture of this country.  Here is a tour of the Punakha market.

Persimmons

You will catch a whiff of a rank smell similar to cow dung while wandering. It is the fermenting betel nut.

The leaves in which the Betel Nut is wrapped before putting into the mouth and chewing.

Garlic

Spices, spices, spices

This is cane. Once the stronger portion is removed to make furniture the softer parts are peeled and dried for use in the winter as a basis for soups and stews.

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This is a vegetable, sadly no one was able to tell me what it was

Dried fish is very prevalent in Bhutanese cooking

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Guavas, apples, pears and bananas are also common fruits throughout Bhutan

It is all Zhimbay!

Kuzuzangpo

September 2015
Punakha, Bhutan

You can see the Chorten on the top of the hill from the bridge

The walk to the Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten begins by crossing a delightful, and very stable suspension bridge. The area under the bridge serves as a pushing off spot for rafting and kayaking down the Mo Chuu.

The walk is through lovely rice paddies with the first breathable stop being the prayer wheels set on the hillside half way up.

The next leg is slightly easier as there are stone steps that are set into the hill for the better part of the walk.

The Prayer Wheel at the Chorten

The building took eight years to build and is dedicated to the fifth king. The sculptural center is breathtaking, just chock-a-block with Buddhist iconography. As always, photos are forbidden inside the chorten, however, you are able to climb to the roof, three stories up, and gaze down on the valley for spectacular views and once again the use of your camera.

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There are 108 smaller Chortens surrounding the main Chorten.

Looking down on the Suspension Bridge from the Chorten

The Welcome Gate

Some sites along your route…….

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The suspension bridge is very, very stable

This is the Buddha Dordenma a gigantic Shakyamuni Buddha statue the sits in the mountains just outside of Thimpu, Bhutan. It is one of the largest Buddha rupas in the world at 169 feet tall. The statue is made of bronze and gold gilt.

Apsaras ring the Giant Buddha – Apsaras are female spirits of the clouds and water in Buddhism

 The statue alone cost $47 million US, and was built by Aerosun Corporation of Nanjing, China. The statue is a part of the Buddha Dordenma Project, that will include a park covering 945 acres at an expected cost in the neighborhood of $100 million.

The interior is ringed with stunning gold columns

The Buddha commemorates the centennial of the Bhutanese monarchy, but also fulfills a prophecy. In the twentieth century, the renowned yogi Sonam Zangpo prophesized that a large statue of either Padmasambhava, Buddha or of a phurba would be built in the region to bestow blessings, peace and happiness on the whole world.

Behind the altar sits Avalokitesvara, “Lord who looks down”.  This bodhisattva embodies the compassion of all Buddhas.

The Altar in the temple under the Giant Buddha

By pure luck we were there the day it was consecrated by the chief Bhutanese abbot.

The Chief Abbot of the Central Monastic Body of Bhutan is called the Je Khenpo. His primary duty is to lead the Commission for the Monastic Affairs  (Dratshang Lhentshog) of Bhutan, which oversees the Central Monastic Body, and to arbitrate on matters of doctrine, assisted by learned masters or  lopons . The Je Khenpo is also responsible for many important liturgical and religious duties across the country.

The Abbot blessing the crowd

According to the dual system of government in Bhutan, established by Ngawang Namgyal in the 17th century, the powers of the government of Bhutan are ideally split between the religious branch, headed by the Je Khenpo, and the administrative branch, headed by the Druk Desi. The position of Je Khenpo is based on merit by election, and typically is given to the most respected monk in the Commission for the Monastic Affairs (Dratshang Lhentshog).  Therefore, unlike reincarnation lineages such as the Dalai Lama, the position of Je Khenpo is always a seasoned monk, and never a child.

The chinese guests were given these small Buddhas blessed by the Abbot. Placing them on their head is a sign of reverence

The Chinese gathered around the Abbots chair

The red carpet laid for the Head Abbot was decorated with mandalas made of colored rice.  This is after they were walked all over.

There is no record of how drums came to Bhutan but they serve a very important place in both cultural and religious ceremonies.

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The Abbots chair after everyone had left the ceremony

September 2015

Archery became the national sport of Bhutan in 1971. Played between two teams, the distance to the target is about 476 feet.  The small targets are cut from wood and painted. The targets usually measure about 3 feet tall and 11 inches wide. Bullseyes are called karay. Traditionally, Bhutanese bows are made of bamboo, and arrows from bamboo or reeds, fletched with feather vanes. Arrows may be painted and tipped with metal arrowheads. Quivers may be wooden, with an animal hide covering and a woven strap, however, as you can see from the photo above the expensive compound bow has become de rigueur.

There is much verbal competition as well, it is part of the game to heckle ones opponents, but they also praise each other, and lend each other encouragement. This verbal battle that is waged is called kha shed. Competitors must be prepared to provoke or reply in an equal or more impressive literary fashion. One example is: “Where the vulture flies, my stone shall fly, there to collide.” (Bjagoed phu sa do chap kay).  I think you have to speak the idiomatic dialogue to truly appreciate the nuance.

They also celebrate with a happy dance every time a teammate scores.

A Happy Dance

Khuru, or a form of darts, is fast overtaking archery as a favorite sport.  “Khurus” are carved out of hard-wood and there is no restriction on the weight or the size to be played. A “khuru” can weigh anywhere from 5 to 10 ounces.

The distance between the targets is about 100 feet and the target is pretty small too, at about 10 by 5 inches.

They also do a happy dance when their teammates score.

When they score they are given a colored scarf, as you can see this fellow must be one of the better players on the team.

Dotsho or Hot Stone baths seem to be a uniquely Bhutanese concept, practiced in this country for centuries. The Bhutanese believe that the bath helps with joint pains and relaxing. One or more sit in a tub that has a wood grate forming a small pool at one end.  Hot steaming river rocks are rolled into the grated end and quickly heat the water to a desired temperature of those in the tub.  The person heating the rocks is not within site of the tub, so more heat and rocks are requested by pounding on the wooden chute where the rocks enter the tub.

Photo courtesy of Hotel Pegyel

The tub is filled with Artemsia leaves.

Photo from FrustratedGardner.com

Hot stone baths, even at our 5 star hotel in Paro are very inexpensive, we were three to a tub and the cost was $20/person.

Kuzuzangpo!

September 22, 2015
Paro, Bhutan
Blessed Rainy Day

Today is Blessed Rainy Day, a national holiday in Bhutan marking the end of the monsoon season. Today all natural water resources in the country are considered to be sanctifying and the people are encouraged to take an outdoor bath in order to be cleansed of “bad deeds, obstructions and defilements” and accumulated bad karma. Families traditionally gather for a large breakfast, and then like holidays around the world, general enjoyment is had by all.  Today I saw both archery, the national sport of Bhutan and darts, a game fast overtaking archery in this country as a favorite sport.  The kids were out, people were picnicking and it was a great day overall.

Our day began at Kyichu Lhakhang (Peaceful Temple), one of the oldest monasteries in Bhutan. The oldest portion of the temple is believed to have been built in AD 659 by King Songster Gampo of Tibet. Additional buildings were built in 1839 and in 1968.

While photos are not allowed inside there is much to see at the site.

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This is a chorten, often called stupas in other Buddhist countries.  The chorten is literally a receptacle for offerings and in Bhutan all chortens contain religious relics.  This chorten at Kyichu Lhakhang contains the ashes of Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche the revered Buddhist master and teacher of the queen mother, he passed away in 1992.

The pinnacle of the chorten symbolizes enlightenment.  The spire symbolizes fire and has 13 steps representing the 13 steps that lead to Buddhahood.  The hemispherical dome symbolizes water, and the square base, earth.

A pair of Dharma trumpets and a prayer wheel. The trumpet is collapsable and the sound is analogous to an elephant singing.

Monks of Kyichu Lhakhang

Prayer wheels and Tsa Tsas

Bhutan is a Buddhist country and the religion seeps into every segment of life.  Prayer Wheels are everywhere.

Prayer wheels are devices for spreading spiritual blessings and well being. In these larger prayer wheels rolls of thin paper, imprinted with many, many copies (the more the merrier) of the mantra (prayer) Om Mani Padme Hum, often printed in an ancient Indian script or in Tibetan script, are wound around an axle in a protective container, and spun around and around. Typically, larger decorative versions of the syllables of the mantra are carved on the outside cover of the wheel.

Buddhists believe that saying this mantra, out loud or silently to oneself, invokes the embodiment of compassion.

Viewing a written copy of the mantra is said to have the same effect and the mantra is carved into stones left in piles near paths where travelers will see them.

You will find stray dogs everywhere in Bhutan.  It is said that in Bhutanese Buddhism there is a dark space between death and enlightenment.  In this dark space the dogs tail will light the way, so dogs are revered in Bhutanese culture.

Ceremonial cakes adorn all the alters in Bhutan’s monasteries, however, since photos are not allowed it has been difficult for me to bring them to you.  Today I had the honor of stepping into the work room of Kyichu Lhakhang where they make these cakes.  The base is a flour type cake, but the ornamentation is butter.  The larger pieces are painted once carved, the color is integral to the butter in the smaller ornamentation.

While I can not confirm what this monk was calling about, it appeared he was checking something in the script that sat before him, I later saw him using his phone to look things up on the web.  I have no idea if these are recipes, directions for designs or prayers, but it is an excellent example of how the cell phone has invaded Bhutan.

This monk was sorting supplies, molds and dyes for the process of making the cakes.  These cakes adorn every alter, once they have outspent their usefulness they are fed to the birds.

Whenever you step into a Buddhist temple you are required to remove your shoes, this always makes for a colorful and fun site.

Throughout Bhutanese temples you will find these delightfully colorful hangings.  The center pillow appearing piece is also found inside and out in monastaries.  These are strictly symbolic, a showing of protecting the faithful from the sun and the rain, similar to the umbrella found throughout temples in India.

Kuzuzangpo

Written on September 21, 2015
From Paro, Bhutan
59 Degrees F and raining

The moment you land in Bhutan you know to dial it down several notches.  It is a slow moving and peaceful country.

To safeguard its environment, religion and culture, the country has adopted a controlled tourism policy. Although there is no longer a restriction on visitor numbers; all tourists have to pay a minimum daily tourist fee of approximately $250 US. This accompanied with a minimum amount of airline flights into the country, it is, while not as untouched as one might imagine, a country you know is special.

You can enter Bhutan by plane only through Thailand, Bangladesh, Burma, Nepal or India. There is only one international airport in Bhutan and that is Paro (only opened in 1983).  You can drive into the country, but only if you are an Indian or Bhutanese citizen.

Paro is 7382 feet in altitude so some adjustment is needed right away, especially if you fly in from sea level.

Dzongka is the official language, it is closely related in script to Tibetan, however Tibetans can not understand the spoken Dzongkha. There are 18 different dialects in the country but English is used as the language of education, so most everyone speaks English, and you see it on all the signs as well.

This is a Buddhist country, by that I mean that it infuses every pore and every breath of the people.

Relatively isolated until the 1950’s there is a great concern about the erosion of the culture. For this reason the traditional attire is required if one is working, especially in an official capacity.  The male outfit is called the gho and the females is the kira.

There is also a ban on non-traditional architecture.  The architecture is simply stunning and I will be writing more about that later.

TV and the internet arrived in 1999, and I have been told that the cell phone has been the biggest factor of change rather than either of the other two mediums.

Until the 1960s Bhutan had no national currency, no telephones, no schools, hospitals and of course, no tourists, the roads are still not very well developed and yet the people are some of the most friendly and happy.  This is the land where they measure wealth as Gross National Happiness after all.

The currency is the Bhutanese Ngultrum, however, it is easier to travel with the Indian Rupee if you have come through that way. The exchange rate is 1 to 1 with the Rupee or about 65 to the US Dollar.  The only down side to traveling with the rupee is that the Bhutanese do not take 500 or higher rupee bills, so I entered the country with only about $400 US, that was a stack of bills 4″ thick.   This being said, they also don’t take anything but brand new American Dollars and heaven forbid they have writing or tears on the bills. You can change money very easily in the two large cities of Paro and Thimpu but it is not so easy in the more rural towns, ATMs are not yet a staple throughout the country, and credit cards are still a novelty outside of large establishments.

The Bhutanese flag was adopted in 1965 it features the Thunder Dragon, the country’s emblem. Yellow symbolizes the authority of the king, white represents purity and loyalty, while orange is symbolic of the Drukpa monasteries.

The Government of Bhutan has been a constitutional monarchy since July of 2008. Between 1907 and the 1950s, however, Bhutan was an absolute monarchy. The peaceful march to democracy has been a steady one. There is a council of ministers, headed by the Prime Minister. In 2007 a ban was lifted on political parties and a constitution was adopted in 2008.  While all of this sounds very progressive the country is still working on the change from monarchy to democracy.  They love their royal family, and there photos are everywhere.  They are a stunningly beautiful people and it is reflected in the handsome king and beautiful queen.

The Bhutanese call their country Druk Yul or Land of the Thunder Dragon and The Druk Tsendhen (“The Thunder Dragon Kingdom”) is the national anthem. 

The emblem of Bhutan features a vajra above a lotus, surmounted by a jewel, and framed by two druk.  The vajra means both thunderbolt and diamond symbolizing both the properties of a diamond (indestructibility) and a thunderbolt (irresistible force).

That is a simplistic introduction to a complicated country, I will attempt to bring you far more in the coming weeks.

Suggested Reading:

Beyond the Sky and the Earth by Jamie Zeppa
Treasures of the Thunder Dragon by Her Majesty the Queen Mother Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck

Kuzuzangpo