UAE – ALL I NEED IS MY PASSPORT

Architecture of Abu Dhabi – Part 1

Jan 132023

January 2023

Abu Dhabi is an Emirate in the United Arab Emirates. Abu Dhabi has 200 islands, and the country is developing the larger ones as, essentially, theme parks.

There is a conservation island with an Arabian Wildlife Park, Zaya Nurai, a boutique island resort, Al Maryah Island for business and high-end shopping, Yas Island with theme parks, Saadiyat Island, built as a culture island with museums from around the world, and Peal-diving island, with historical recreations of this ancient industry, to name just a few.

For this reason, their architecture is more planned, but just as over the top in many cases. Abu Dhabi also has the truly good, the bad and the truly ugly.

The Truly Ugly

Qasr al Watan

Qaṣr Al-Waṭan is the presidential palace of the United Arab Emirates (UAE). I could have skipped this monstrosity in a heart beat, but the building we were scheduled to see was closed for an event.

Covered in white marble, the craftsman ship in this building is over the top, wrong.

Interior work of Qasr al Watam

Everything is machine made giving it a feel of flatness. There is no one overriding theme thus, the jarring feeling one gets inside is difficult to experience at best. All of this being said, most people find it incredibly lovely; I found it gauche, and it appears to be built more for shock and awe for tourists than anything else.

Chandelier with 350 pieces, a bragging point for the building, that is pointed out rather firmly when you tour.

This egg is placed in one of the halls specifically as a photo opportunity.

This sculpture was created by Mattar Bin Lahej. It is a quote from the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan: “Wealth is not money and oil. Wealth lies in people, and it is worthless if not dedicated to serve the people”.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is the largest mosque in the country. It has a mall underneath with shops, Starbucks, and a Mcdonalds.

You walk through a long hallway of these shops, ride up several escalators and emerge at the front of the mosque, While it is a mosque, it is not really used for much more than herding tourists through and taking their money.

The exterior of the mosque

The finest materials were used in the construction of the mosque, but again the craftsmanship is so poor.

Some of the marblework in the interior

The prayer room with what is touted as the world’s largest carpet

Marina Residence Building in the center of the photo.

A Few Random Buildings Around Abu Dhabi

Abu Dhabi National Oil Company (ADNOC) Headquarters

The tall building in the center is the Abu Dhabi National Oil Company Headquarters, designed by HOK. Clad in granite tower sits on the Corniche.

Etihad Towers.

Close to the ADNOC headquarters building are the Etihad Towers, designed by the Australian firm DBI. This project consists of five towers with multiple uses, the tallest of which is 76 stories. The copper building is the Bab Al Qasr Hotel, with the Grand Hyatt directly behind it.

Al Dar Headquarters

The blue circle was designed by MZ Architects of Abu Dhabi. They say that the circle symbolizes unity, stability, and rationality. It is also the symbol of infinity, without beginning or end, perfection, the ultimate geometric symbol. It represents a completeness that encompasses all space and Time.

Burj Mohammed Bin Rashid

Designed by the British firm Foster and Partners in 2014, the Burj Mohammed Bin Rashid is presently the tallest building in Abu Dhabi.

The Architecture of Abu Dhabi Part 2

Abu Dhabi, Arabian Peninsula, UAE

Jan 132023

December 2023

As I mentioned in my last post, there is some excellent architecture in Abu Dhabi, and this post is going to concentrate on that.

Al Bahar Towers now called the Pineapple Buildings.

Designed by the firm Aedas, one tower is the headquarters of the Abu Dhabi Investment Council, an investment arm of the Government of Abu Dhabi. The other serves as the head office of Al Hilal Bank.

The eye-catching aspect of the towers is the protective skin of 2,000 umbrella-like glass elements that automatically open and close depending on the intensity of sunlight. Inspired by the ‘mashrabiya’, geometrically-designed wooden lattice screens that have been used to fill windows of traditional Arabic architecture that allow women to see out and yet remain unseen.

Sheikh Zayed Bridge (I had to take this off of the internet as it is impossible to take a picture of this bridge except from the water)

Designed by the late Israeli -British architect Zaha Hadid, the one-half-mile-long bridge is said to be the most complex bridge ever built.

The Louvre Museum

The Louvre Museum is just one of several spectacularly designed museums headed to the Cultural Island of Abu Dhabi. While the collection is a little underwhelming, the building is stunning.

Series of paintings by Cy Twombly,

Designed by Jean Nouvel, the museum has an interesting flow to it. After walking through a rather non-descript parking lot and entrance, you enter the galleries where the flooring represents the architecture of the gallery, and the displays attempt to focus, as well, on the purpose of the gallery.

Food for Thought – Al Muallaqat (2013).

Diffused light in one of the corridors.

Looking through an interior wall to the courtyard. Jenny Holzer, limestone relief of three pages with Arabic script from a manuscript of the Muqaddimah by Ibn Khaldun, a 14th-century treatise on the writing of history.

After leaving the galleries you step out into this stunning space and you are under the steel dome.

The first pieces you are confronted with are a sculpture by Auguste Rodin juxtaposed with another limestone relief by Jenny Holzer. Holzer’s work (2017) tells a creation myth story written in bilingual Sumerian and Akkadian cuneiform script, taken from a Mesopotamian tablet that was excavated from the ancient city of Assur in present-day Iraq.

Standing next to the cafe looking out onto the sea.

The nearly 200-yard diameter dome comprises eight layers of steel iron and aluminum cladding, separated by a steel frame five meters high. Which Nouvel said was inspired by the fronds of the local date palm tree. It reveals a complex pattern repeated in various scales and angles throughout the layers. When light shines through it, it creates an effect called the “rain of light.”

The exteriors of the pavilions and their enclosing wall are clad in white, precast concrete panels.

As you wander under the dome, you find all types of spaces that are pleasing to the eye.

Another outdoor exhibit titled Ottoman Pavement.

A final encounter with water as you exit the building.

Abrahamic Family House

Sadly, this complex, designed by British architect David Adjaye was not quite complete upon my visit, so this was as close as I could get.

During Pope Francis’s historic trip to the UAE, he met with Ahmed el-Tayeb, Grand Imam of al-Azhar, to discuss interfaith harmony in the Arab world and across the globe. Sheikh Mohamed bin Zayed, Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi, commemorated the meeting with this interfaith project.

Artists rendering of the Abrahamic Family House with the 5 Wings museum in the back

5 Wings Museum (Zayed National Museum) under construction January 2023

The Zayed National Museum was designed by Atelier Dreiseitl and Foster + Partners. The ‘five wings’ design aims to combine contemporary architecture with the curves of traditional Arabic design. It is also a metaphor for the former leader’s love of falconry, with the towers shaped like wing tips of the falcon.

Other museums I look forward to are by some of my favorite architects, beginning with Tadao Ando’s Maritime Museum and the Performing Arts Center by Zaha Hadid.

Tadao Ando’s Maritime Museum

Rendering of Hadid’s Performing Arts Center

I have so many questions about the viability of a country that sits on the rising seas in a part of the world with rapidly rising temperatures (that eventually will be uninhabitable), but despite that, I can admire the architecture of some of, what I consider, the genii of our era.

Fujairah, UAE

Arabian Peninsula, UAE

Jan 132023

December 2023

This was finally a day of history.

Fujairah is in the easternmost part of the UAE; the geography is one of craggy mountains often covered in greenery, interspersed with date palm-tree-filled oases. Fujairah received its highest rainfall in 27 years in July of 2022, causing flooding in many areas.

This area is replete with forts. Their role was to protect the Wadi’s, which were major trading routes.

Fujairah Fort

Fujairah is one of UAE’s largest and oldest forts; this 16th-century structure sits looming over the Fujairah Heritage Village. The fort was constructed using rock, gravel, and mortar, supported by mangrove poles and a roof made of palm fronds.

Fujairah Heritage Village

Carbon dating of the foundation structure indicates that the fort was built between 1500 and 1550 CE and rebuilt sometime between 1650 and 1700 CE. It is noted for playing significant roles in fighting back the wave of colonialism.

In 1925, the British navy destroyed three of the fort’s towers, which led to its abandonment. It remained untouched until 1998 when the emirate’s antiquities authority began a two-year restoration.

Date syrup processing area

People have been making date syrup for thousands of years. Ancient cuneiform scripts from Mesopotamia in the period of about 3400 – 600 BCE refer to the syrup as the most important sweetener of the time. In the fort stacks of dates were placed above these ridges and the heat and the weight would push the syrup out and it would ooze into the hole at the front of the photo. The syrup was also used in fighting, it would be brought to a boil and then poured down upon the enemy.

Al Bithna Fort

Bithnah Fort is a traditional two-story rock, coral, and mudbrick fortification located in the Wadi Ham. Wadi Ham links the East Coast port of Fujairah to the inland town of Masafi, which stands as one of the three great trade routes. The others are the Wadi Jizzi and the Wadi Hatta.

The Bithnah Fort was allowed to fall into ruin and was restored in 1974. It was allowed once again to fall into a state of decay. It was restored fully in 2008–2012

Aflaj Water System

The farms around Bithnah utilize an ancient system of water called aflaj. A type of irrigation system over 5000 years old.

Aflaj consists of three main parts; umm al falaj, the access shafts, and the tunnel. Umm al falaj, which means ‘the mother well’, is where the main source of water is located. Then comes the tunnel, which carries the water from the mother well to its destination. The length of the tunnel depends on the type of terrain where the aflaj runs, the amount of water in the mother well, and how far is the final water destination.

Access shafts are built every 66 feet down into the tunnel to help with ventilation and removal of debris.

The rationing of the water has a very hierarchical system to ensure no one is using more than their share.

Al Bidya Mosque

Sadly the mosque was closed on our visit so the most we could do was look into the courtyard. The mosque’s date of construction is uncertain and because the building has no wood, radiocarbon dating isn’t possible. It is thought to date to the 15th century.

The sturcture is only 570 square feet and was built primarily from local stones of various sizes and mud bricks coated in many layers of whitewashed plaster. The roof has four squats and helical domes that are supported by only one centrally placed pillar that also forms the ceiling. The entrance to the mosque is through double-winged wooden doors.

This country of the UAE was truly lovely. Yes, it had its big growing cities, although there is no oil, but it also has maintained many of its historical buildings.

Architecture of Dubai

Arabian Peninsula, Dubai, UAE

Jan 102023

January 2023

Dubai is one of the Emirates that makes up the United Arab Emirates (UAE). There are seven emirates, consisting of Abu Dhabi (the capital), Ajman, Dubai, Fujairah, Ras Al Khaimah, Sharjah, and Umm Al Quwain.

One sees images of Dubai in mass media, and these glossy photos, highly photoshopped, look intriguing. My impression upon my first visit is that I can not decide if the architecture of this city is a comedy, a tragedy, or an LSD fueled ride through town.

It appears to be a place where you can get away with anything, no matter how outlandish or oversized, and where no one seems to say no.

Having also visited Sharjah and Umm Al Quawain from Dubai, I will say that Dubai stands alone in its approach to architecture.

One block of an array of buildings downtown

Upon checking into the JW Marriott Marquis hotel, I was instantly confronted with the inanity of this entire concept called architectural Dubai. The hotel is two towers, each 72 stories tall, and boasts it is one of the tallest in the world and that it is, in fact, the world’s tallest 5-star hotel (a rating I would contest). There are 1608 rooms, twelve restaurants, and what I was told was the largest breakfast buffet in the world. In other words, we can outdo anyone in town for “most”.

In 2021 there were 755 hotels with 137,950 rooms available in Dubai.

I was actually highly impressed with the new Museum of the Future. (Their website has a slew of wonderful photos).

Killa Design won the design competition for the museum in 2015. According to the architect, the solid part of the structure represents the knowledge that we have today. The void represents all that we do not yet know or, put simply, the future. The Arabic calligraphy enveloping the building is a quote from Dubai’s ruler, Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum: “Innovation is not an intellectual luxury. It is the secret behind the evolution and rejuvenation of nations and peoples.”

Another that I found appealing to the eye was Atlantis the Royal by KPF (Their website also has a myriad of excellent photos). This was a pleasant surprise amongst the other monstrosities called Atlantis found in the Palm Tree-shaped development called Palm Jumeirah.

This is Atlantis The Palm, and the moment I saw it, I harkened to Disneyworld in Florida. As this is a resort area, I suppose one could be kind and lenient, but why?

Atlantis The Palm

The Frame

The Frame was selected as the winner of the 2009 ThyssenKrupp Elevator International Award from 926 proposals. The building primarily serves as a viewing platform to the city. The Frame is constructed of glass, steel, aluminum, and reinforced concrete with designs of the logo of Expo 2020 embedded on the outer facade. The project was conceived by Fernando Donis. The designer has alleged that he had his intellectual property stolen and was denied credit for the design.

The Frame

The Burj al Arab is the world’s only 7-star hotel, and it sits on its own island off of Jumeirah Beach. The sailboat-shaped building was designed by the multidisciplinary consultancy Atkins, led by architect Tom Wright.

The entrance to the Burj Al Arab

The first thing one thinks about is what is the foundation of these vast buildings; There are massive amounts of concrete in their foundations, as these buildings do sit on the sand. However, the sand of Dubai is unfit for construction; its shape would encourage the buildings to sink, so sand is brought from Australia for these projects.

The Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building, at night

The top of the Burj Khalifa in the daytime

The concrete under the Burj Khalifa amounts to 110,000 tons which sits on millions of tons of Australian sand.

Looking Down from the 148th floor (of its 163 floors) of Burj Khalifa

Historically Dubai had extensive trading links between the civilizations of the Indus Valley and Mesopotamia and has served as a major trading port throughout history.

These blue boats, laden with goods, regularly travel between Iran and Dubai.

Dubai’s “creek.”

Dubai’s Creek has been described as a natural saltwater creek, tidal inlet, watercourse, or waterway which extends about 9 miles inland.

In 2016 around 1.5 miles was added and is called the Dubai Water Canal. The canal includes a walk comprised of one shopping center, four hotels, 450 restaurants, luxury housing, walkways, and cycle paths. It is two miles long and was designed by AE7 Architects and Planners.

Dubai Canal with a pedestrian bridge in the foreground and the Bridge of Tolerance behind

Bridge of Tolerance was named by His Highness Shaikh Mohammad Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice-President and Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai at the time of its construction.

Dubai’s Infinity Bridge

Historically, not much has survived of the older buildings of Dubai, so the Emirate re-created a town for tourism.

The recreated historic town of Dubai in the background

Persian merchants from Bastak settled in the area and built houses in the Bastak style. These were narrow, high-ceilinged courtyard houses with wind towers. These can be seen in the above and lower photograph.

Windcatchers tend to have one, four, or eight openings. The construction of a windcatcher depends on the direction of airflow at that specific location. To keep buildings free of dust and sand that blew in from the desert, windcatchers were built facing away from the wind.

Up until the mid-20th century most buildings fell into five categories: religious, residential, markets, public, and defensive buildings. Buildings that were constructed up until then remained within traditional styles. Unlike other styles of Islamic and Persian architecture, there is little ornamentation found in the traditional architecture of the UAE.

The Al Shandagah Watch Tower built in 1939

Very small glimpses of original construction can be found in isolated areas.

Traditional construction materials in the UAE were coral, mud brick, dry stone, wood, and thatch. Coral obtained from the coastal reefs was the prime building material on the coast. Two forms were used between load-bearing walls, irregular rubble blocks set into a thick mortar known as ‘sarooj’ or thin coral slabs used as panels.

Coral set in a wall in a reconstruction project.

The Breakwater of Palm Jumeirah

The breakwater was the first section of The Palm Jumeirah island to be built. It protects the inner island from the strong sea currents and the seasonal “shamal” winds that blow across the Gulf from Iraq. A geotextile membrane, which stops the sand from washing away, was topped by a layer of one-ton rocks, followed by two more layers of rocks weighing up to six tons each. The island itself is 3,257,212,970.389 cubic feet of ocean sand Vibro-compacted into place.

The developer of Palm Jumeirah was Nakheel, a real estate company now owned by the government of Dubai. The master plan was drawn up by Helman Hurley Charvat Peacock, an American architectural firm.

The stone used in the construction of the breakwater came from the Hajar Mountains that lie in northeastern Oman and the eastern portion of the UAE.

Playing God on Sir Bani Yas

Arabian Peninsula, UAE

Jan 082023

January 2023

Sir Bani Yas is an example of what you can do when you have mountains of oil money at your disposal.

The name Sir Bani Yas originates from the Bani Yas tribe, who first inhabited Abu Dhabi 7,000 years ago and left at least a century ago.

The island is the crest of a salt dome created millions of years ago. A salt dome is a type of structural dome formed when salt intrudes into overlying rocks. They are important in petroleum geology as they can function as petroleum traps.

There are 36 archeological sites on the island. Importantly, it is the location of a Nestorian Christian monastery that dates to 600 CE and is the only pre-Islamic Christian site to be found in the UAE.

Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan (ruled from 1971 until his death in 2004) established the island as a wildlife reserve in 1977. Prior to the establishment of the reserve, the only land area with tree cover was from a small grove of date palms planted by the Bani Yas tribe.

The island is rich in minerals, including areas of green or mauve shales, siltstones and sandstones, dolomite, yellow ochres, and crystalline sulfur apatite. It is reported that salt was once mined on the island, as was kohl.

Mangroves

Over the course of 30 years, the barren island was irrigated, and more than seven million desert-variety trees were planted for animals to feed on. Through time facilities were built, including a jetty that can handle two cruise ships, an airport, roads, and a royal residence. There are three luxury hotels on the island, managed by Anantara Hotels, who are charged with managing the island as well.

Trees cultivated for the project included the UAE’s national tree Al Ghaf, the umbrella thorn acacia, the Arabian gum tree, date palms, and the grey mangrove. Most had to be planted in the sandstone sections of the island, where the ground was most fertile. Compost was imported, and an extensive irrigation system keeps the salt in the soil away from the roots.

The Arabian Oryx

The island is home to many species, from Arabian oryx, Somali ostrich, gazelle, and deer to reticulated giraffes, dolphins, and sea turtles. Many of the more than one hundred species of wild birds which can be found on the island are indigenous to the region. The island is home to around 30 species of mammals, including a variety of antelope and one of the world’s largest herds of endangered Arabian oryx. The Arabian oryx, a species of antelope, was formerly extinct in the wild, but the island is home to a herd of over 400 who roam freely on the island. While that sounds exciting, the 400 oryx are of the same gene pool, leaving them at high risk.

Nubian Ibex

One of the first things you notice is the fences. Animals with the potential to crossbreed had to be separated. Some animals had to be separated into different areas for feeding and given small amounts of supplementary food.