May 152014
We began the day at the Fountains Square, a public square in downtown Baku. The name derives from the presence of dozens of fountains throughout the square first constructed during Soviet rule of Azerbaijan. The square was completely renovated in 2010.
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*I instantly fell in love with this carousel, and yes that is an octopus occupying the top of the ticket booth.
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We then meandered over to the Funicular that runs from a square on Neftchilar Avenue to Martyrs’ Lane. It was originally opened in 1960 but closed after the collapse of the Soviet Union. It was reopened again in 2001 and then went through a major renovation in 2012. The views from the top are spectacular.
We then spent the afternoon walking around The Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center which was designed by Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid and named for Heydar Aliyev, the leader of Soviet-era Azerbaijan from 1969 to 1982, and president of Azerbaijan from October 1993 to October 2003.
According to the architect’s website: As part of the former Soviet Union, the urbanism and architecture of Baku were heavily influenced by the planning of that era. Since its independence in 1991, Azerbaijan has invested heavily in modernizing and developing Baku’s infrastructure and architecture, departing from its legacy of normative Soviet Modernism.
Zaha Hadid Architects was appointed as design architects of the Heydar Aliyev Center following a competition in 2007. The Center, designed to become the primary building for the nation’s cultural programs, breaks from the rigid and often monumental Soviet architecture that is so prevalent in Baku, aspiring instead to express the sensibilities of Azeri culture and the optimism of a nation that looks to the future.
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The building is surrounded with wonderful outdoor sculpture and is truly an experience to behold.
A little bit about the art scene here. Art is everywhere, and everything is artistic. However, we visited the Modern Art Museum and while there was good art in it, it was not what I would consider museum quality.
That is not a criticism. I can not imagine what it must have been like to have been an artist under Soviet domination. It is exciting to see that it has so much potential and feels to me like it is a coil ready to spring and bring forth an amazing amount of energy and new things.
We have sadly moved hotels, and join our group tomorrow. The new hotel leaves a lot to be desired. The one thing that is especially going to be difficult to deal with is the smoking situation. This is a part of the world that still has a heavy smoking culture. The rooms and restaurants are difficult to inhabit, and I am sure my clothing will all have to go to the cleaners when I return.
Funny how we have forgotten how badly that can be.
Funny how we have forgotten how badly that can be.