Oct 202016
 

October 20, 2016

So many of the Cretan towns are built on the same model, i.e. large protective walls in various states of decay, a fort, a small port and tiny winding streets.  The joy is, that they each have their own personalities as well.  Rethymnon, while, if one were reading a description, would be much like Chania, it is a different as can be, in such a surprising and delightful way.

The harbor of Rethynmon taken from the Forteza

The harbor of Rethynmon taken from the Fortezza

Rethymnon has a rich and varied history. It has been inhabited since the late Minoan Era. During the 3rd and 4th Centuries BC the autonomous state of Rethymnan was of sufficient importance to issue its own coinage.

The Venetian rule saw Rethymnon flourish as a commercial, artistic and administrative center. The Venetians created a harbor, built extensive fortifications – including the impressive Fortezza and the Rimondi Fountain .

During the Turkish occupation Rethymnon fell somewhat into decline. The Turks did however, leave their mark architecturally.

The wooden Turkish homes are still standing in this part of Greece

The wooden Turkish homes are still standing in this part of Greece

Rethymnon, Crete

The Fortezza of Rethymnon, is one of the best-preserved castles in Crete. Designed by military engineer Sforza Pallavicini according to the Italian bastioned system, it was built to defend the port against pirate attacks. Barbarossa had devastated the town in 1538.

Bastions of the Fortezza

Bastions of the Fortezza

Inside the Fortezza looking out to the sea

Inside the Fortezza looking out to the Sea of Crete

The Rimondi Fountain, which is actually a spring, stands on the site of an older fountain believed to have existed since at least 1588. The Venetian governor J. Rimondi started the reconstruction of the current fountain in 1626.

The Ramindi Fountain

The Ramondi Fountain

The front of the Rimondi Fountain consists of 4 small columns which stand on raised basins used as troughs for animals to drink from. The water runs from spouts that are in form of lions’ heads. You can also spot the crown of Rimondi over the lion’s heads.

The Rimondi Crest on the Rimondi Fountain

The Rimondi Crest on the Rimondi Fountain

We used Rethymnon for a jumping off spot, and stayed at the Avli Hotel. There are not enough words to say how terrific the hotel is, perfectly located with a divine staff.  It is owned by a beautiful woman, Katerina, and her architect husband.  Their taste is exquisite down to the very last detail. It is several homes put together, it includes not only a large restaurant room, but a wine cellar, a cooking school, a high end grocery store and a garden that I knew I could spend months and months in just watching time pass and discovering all the hidden details.

Their restaurant is truly one of the best in the city, favored by the locals as well as the tourists.

In the garden of the Avli Hotel

In the garden of the Avli Hotel

Just a smattering of how gorgeous the garden of the Avil Hotel is.

Just a smattering of how gorgeous the garden of the Avil Hotel is.

Fresh herbs, used in the restaurant are scattered in well marked pots, albeit, in Greek

Fresh herbs, used in the restaurant are scattered in well marked pots, albeit, in Greek

Here are some sights from around Rethymnon:

Looking inside a kitchen of a restaurant, wondering the streets

Looking inside a kitchen of a restaurant, wondering the streets

Early morning and the cats are still snug in their assigned spaces.

Early morning and the cats are still snug in their assigned spaces.

A look out to sea from the Fortezza

A look out to sea from the Fortezza

A Brugmansia, or Angel's Trumpet just loving its warm location

A Brugmansia, or Angel’s Trumpet just loving its warm location

Classic Greek Menus

Classic Greek Menus

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Walking the town before it has woken

Walking the town before it has woken

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These little trains abound in Crete in all of the tourist locations

These little trains abound in Crete in all of the tourist locations

A laughing squire

A laughing squire

Gorgeous blue pottery, made locally

Gorgeous blue pottery, made locally

The harbor area in the early evening.

The harbor area in the early evening.

My traveling partner Glenn hamming it up in front of the fountain.

My traveling partner Glenn hamming it up in front of the fountain.

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